EASTER, FILIPINO STYLE - Panglao, Bohol, The Philippines

.....previously, our amazing start to our Filipino trip in the Chocolate Hills, Central Bohol.....

Easter figures at Panglao, Bohol

Our lovely guesthouse hosts in Batuan, drove us to the bus, and put us on a great old banger going to the capital of Bohol, Tagbilaran. The ride was crowded, with every tiny seat being taken. Rich was seated next to a huge guy, and Sal was squashed with a backpack on her lap for the journey. But it was still wonderful- breezy, gorgeous scenery down through the hills, and all was good. Many of the English signs along the road made Sal smile- particularly cute was the Doris Day Pharmacy.

Doris Day Pharmacy....why not?

Tagbilaran bus terminal was extremely easy and organized, with separate sections for big buses and minivans, each destination displayed with a clear sign. We quickly found the bus for Panglao, our destination, and grabbed a couple of seats. This journey was not so scenic, big, busy roads, many vehicles and dusty roadworks. We were dropped at Panglao village, at the enormous St. Augustine church, and found our little room down a side street. It wasn't quite what we had expected, but it had everything we needed. It was nice to have a bit more space and a hot shower after our simple lodgings in Batuan.

Big buses at Tagbilaran bus station, Bohol

Our neighborhood, Panglao, Bohol

Fisherman's shack, coast of Panglao, Bohol

Fishing in the mangroves, Panglao, Bohol

Old style house, Panglao town, Bohol

It was slightly deflating to arrive in coastal Panglao after spending time in the hills of central Bohol. Besides the increased traffic and noise, the locals didn't seem quite as enamored to see us- we had rather become used to being popular! The scenic beaches in Panglao make this part of Bohol the most touristy on the island, and people here seemed much more used to foreign faces. 

Wooden house in Panglao town, Bohol

Attractive back street, Panglao, Bohol

Old house, Panglao town, Bohol

Fishing boats, Panglao, Bohol

In The Philippines, Holy Week, (Easter to us), starts the Friday before Good Friday and ends on what we would call Easter Sunday. We had seen the worshippers attending church with their palm fronds on Palm Sunday, and were looking forward to observing more ceremonies. Our arrival in Panglao coincided with Good Friday, the most solemn day of the year for Filipino Catholics.  Around 80% of  Christian Filipinos are Catholic, although there are other denominations represented in the country - we had seen Baptists and Seventh Day Adventists, for example. Religious rituals here are influenced historically by Spanish Catholic customs, and apparently have mingled with pre-colonial beliefs to create a unique mix. 

Outside the church in Panglao, Bohol

Many denominations of Christians in The Philippines

A typical Catholic church, Bohol

We popped in and out of the church during the few days of Easter we were there, and found the atmosphere to be refreshingly casual. People came and went, usually bringing their own plastic chairs on which to sit, apparently knowing in advance the pews would all be full. The dress code was not particularly strict, many folks wearing shorts or short sleeved shirts. Of course, there was a lot of singing- it wouldn't be a Filipino event without that! The songs didn't sounds very traditionally Catholic to us, but rather, more modern and accessible. We refrained from attending the indoor Masses and services- even in the huge St Augustin's church, the scene was way too packed and sweaty to enjoy. Sal stood at the back for some time during one Mass, and on trying to make an inconspicuous escape during a quiet part, accidentally knocked over a metal water bottle, the sound of which embarrassingly reverberated around the whole church!

A quiet time at St Augustine church in Panglao, Bohol

Strange little saint, Panglao, Bohol

Old ruin, church grounds, Panglao, Bohol

Spanish era tower, Panglao, Bohol

Hearing there might be something going on at the church across the road from where we were staying, we asked around and were told at 3pm there would be the Procession of Christ parade. Another person told us it would be starting at 4pm. We hung about the church grounds sweating buckets in the blazing heat for most of the afternoon. Rich was suspicious when we noticed all the candles being sold, and right enough, there was no action until sundown. Later, we realized that 3pm was the time for a silent prayer and service, as it's believed that's when Christ died, we just misunderstood the information. 

People gearing up for Easter evening, Panglao, Bohol

Exterior of St Augustine church, with Easter crowds, Bohol

In some parts of The Philippines at Easter, devotees whip themselves in penance, carry heavy crosses in the sun, or even re-create the crucifixion, actually being nailed to crosses. Here in Panglao, a figure of Jesus was laid out on a hearse-like platform, with a splendid red curly beard and in a gossamer of white garments and flowers. He was slowly wheeled on a float out into the streets in the darkness, followed by a series of statues of saints, dressed in glittering gowns and long wigs. Apparently these are figures related to the death of Jesus, such as Saint Peter and Mary Magdalene. 

Figures surrounding Jesus, Easter on Panglao, Bohol

Jesus was laying in amongst all the flowers, Easter in Panglao, Bohol

Easter celebration through a tricycle

Surrounding these idols were hundreds of devotees, carrying candles, shuffling along slowly beside the floats. Some bizarre music was playing, a mournful tune that honestly sounded something like a sultry, sad Spanish bossa nova ballad one might hear in a smoky lounge bar. It was truly strange and haunting, and created a curious atmosphere. We had read that many business might be shut, that the eating of meat is frowned upon, and noise and children playing are discouraged on Good Friday. We can confirm none of these were true in our area!

Idols carried through the streets, Panglao, Bohol

Shining in the dark night, Easter procession, Panglao, Bohol

Three short videos, which hopefully give a quick impression of the mood

 

The whole affair was authentic, gently intriguing and unlike anything we had seen before.

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Momo and Doljo Beaches in the far west of Panglao featured white sand and clear water, and mostly full of bangka, the unique Filipino style boats with outriggers, used for fishing and tourism. On the Easter days we visited, the beaches were full of cheerful and good natured local folk enjoying picnics, the kids squealing with happiness playing in the sand and splashing around in the shallow blue water, and the adults relaxing with hammocks, karaoke machines and beer in the shade. We sat next to one group, enjoying their music, particularly the unique reggae rendition of Country Roads!

Blue sea and white sands, Panglao beach, Bohol

Fishing beach, Panglao, Bohol

Little boy relaxing, Panglao beach, Bohol

Sunset at Panglao beach, Bohol

Starfish (not our hand!), Panglao beach, Bohol

Enjoying a beach picnic, Panglao, Bohol

We moved after a few days to Danao, a much more tourist focused village, with many above and underwater activities on offer. We did initially find the vibe a bit weird, with so many posh resorts and restaurants existing alongside locals running tiny shops, or making a modest living from fishing. This part of Panglao was a mix of high-end retreats, simple bamboo shacks, 7-11s, tiny sari sari shops, tourists on motorbikes, ex-pat stores selling Western goods, Korean restaurants (everywhere), dive shops.....it was slightly hectic, but as we were out of the center, we enjoyed a quieter stay. The exclusively female staff at our guesthouse were absolutely sweet and professional, and could not do enough for us. It felt homey and low key, and out of the "scene". 

Our accommodation was close to the famous Alona Beach, probably the most popular place for tourists on Bohol. Having visited some less than picture perfect beaches in the area, we weren't quite sure what to expect. The seaside lanes were full of prosperous looking businesses catering to tourists- juice shops, massages and Jollibee's (The Philippines answer to Maccas). Once we had found a place in the bustle to park our motorbike, and stroll down to the sea, we instantly saw the attraction. One section was set aside for dive boat departures, and featured many simple bars, massage joints and souvenir sellers. At the far end the scene opened up onto a gorgeous wide, clean beach. We plonked ourselves on the powdery white sand, in the shade of a palm tree, in front of a fancy resort playing chilled music. For a few hours until we felt fried, we enjoyed the healing benefits of the sun, cooling swims in the shallow, clear waters and the people watching.

"Commercial" part of Alona Beach, Bohol

Under the shade of a palm tree, Alona Beach, Bohol

We dragged ourselves away from the coast one day for a trip to the Philippine Tarsier Sanctuary. We hadn't much idea about the tiny primates, and were keen to spot them and learn more. The sanctuary was set up in a similar manner to the orangutans we had seen in Sumatra some years ago- in the wild, but monitored and protected. Arriving at opening time, we saw many tourists already appearing (including us!). We were especially glad to have been early birds as we left, as many buses were pulling up and the hoards were out. At the center, we were herded into a small group, asked to watch a short video, and to be completely silent. The guide took us into the forest a short walk to see three tarsiers, apparently spotted earlier by staff. The little critters were so much smaller than we expected- they would fit into the palm of a hand. Being busy nocturnal creatures, they were all sleepy and resting in trees when we visited, and didn't seem too disturbed at having a group of foreigners snapping away in their vicinity. Absolutely adorable, we caught a glimpse of all three- the final one looking right at us with it's huge eyes. Their eyes are bigger than their brain, and they are unable to move them, moving their head instead. When they are hunting at night, they can jump an incredible five meters into the air to catch prey. Although we hate tours so much, it was worth the mild irritation this one produced in us in order to see the little cuties in their natural environment. The journey back was something of a nightmare, MapsMe sending us through the center of Tagbilaran town and busy, busy traffic. But Rich was a real trooper and got us home safe and sound. 

Asleep at first.....

....then surprised.....

....and then suspicious!

Protection against the sun! Bohol motorbiking

Church at Baclayon, Bohol

Grand design, church at Baclayon, Bohol

.....next, we travel to idyllic far flung Anda, in the south east of Bohol......