MEDICAL MANEUVERS- A Short Post About Recovery And Rejuvenation

 ........the last blog post from our time on Cambodia's south coast.......

Calm scene on a Bangkok klong

Rich has had trouble with his knee for years, but after a marked increase in pain and a decrease in manoeuvrability in the previous six months, he realized the time had come to do something about it. He had always put up with the issue while the discomfort wasn't too bad and it wasn't interrupting our travel lifestyle, but it was clear now that the inevitable couldn't be postponed any longer. If you follow our blog, you may have seen we have had a distinct lack of adventuring recently, and this has been due to his lack of mobility. 

Knowing how atrocious the current health system is in the UK, we ruled out travelling back there for treatment, and potentially hanging around for years on the waiting list. We knew people who had had medical treatment in Malaysia, and after a lot of research, we decided to return to Penang and visit the Adventist Hospital for advice. Run by the Seventh Day Adventists, it is supposedly a non-profit institution- it did seem to be a fair bit cheaper than some of the other international hospitals we looked into.

A detailed look on their website lead us to the experienced sounding head surgeon of orthopaedics, who had studied and lived in the UK for most of his professional life. A call to the hospital saw us booked in for a consultation THE FOLLOWING DAY, would you believe! This would be unheard of in most "developed" countries. We arrived for registration, and after briskly being whizzed around for thorough x-rays and blood tests, Rich then met with the surgeon, who already had all the relevant results in front of him. What a great system! Immediately comfortable with the doctor and reassured by his diagnosis, Rich was happy to be booked in for a knee replacement in 10 days time ("I'm sorry I can't fit you in this week", the doctor said!!)

We spent most days leading up to the operation at the gym- Rich wanting to be as fit as possible to ensure a quicker recovery (Sal reluctantly exercising, but really enjoying the pool more than anything). It's probably been mentioned before on our blog, but we use an amazing gym in a posh hotel in Penang that, for a one month membership charges 178RM (the equivalent to less than £1 per day). 

Staying at our usual Noble Hotel (where nothing EVER changes except the price), we were lucky enough to be able to catch up with some of our best friends who also happened to be in Penang, as well as the usual motley crew that can always be found hanging around the infamous Antarabangsa Bar in the backstreets of Georgetown.

Arriving early at the hospital the day of admission, there was a lot of waiting around and tests, before we were taken to Richard's digs. The room was clean and modern, and shared with only one other patient. The best part, though, was the staff, whose constant testing and checking was was almost too attentive. There wasn't much time for sleep during the five nights Rich spent in the hospital!

The morning Rich was taken away to surgery was a long one- for Rich undergoing what was to be a more complicated operation than the surgeon had anticipated, and for Sal waiting for hours not knowing what was going on. Rich's knee had deteriorated to a terrible state due to his advanced osteo-arthritis. The thigh and shin bones had been grinding against each other so extensively over the years without the protective cartilage in between to act as a cushion. His leg bones had rubbed together so much so that the shin bone had actually become concave- no wonder he had been in so much pain! The surgeon had a lot of reshaping and resurfacing of the bones to do, and the op took close to three hours instead of the usual one hour. 

When he was finally wheeled back down the hall, Sal was reassured to see him smiling and looking in good spirits- the pain killers were working! Over the next four days, he was immediately put to work by the physiotherapist moving the leg, gently at first, in order to promote maximum flexibility as the knee healed. It was amazing how quickly everything happened- Rich was using the toilet, showering, walking and moving about, and then on the fifth day, the surgeon cleared him to come home. We were both very relieved- as nice as the hospital and staff were, it was not the best environment in which to heal. And as lovely as the Adventists might be, their vegetarian food habits leave a lot to be desired!

Spirits high (and the pain killer level!) immediately after the operation

On arrival back at the guesthouse, the staff appeared to help Rich up the stairs and then produced a crutch and a zimmer frame from who knows where for him to borrow, telling us guests leave all sorts of things in their rooms! These proved  helpful for a few days before Rich was able to walk alone. 

Basically, we spent the next month in Penang, exercising and trying to get Rich back into shape as soon as possible. He worked really hard every day, with extra motivation from Sal. Two return hospital visits saw the surgeon and all the staff extremely impressed with his progress, and although things would never move fast enough for Rich's liking, he was well ahead of the curve on his recovery, and we were on track to returning to our "normal" travelling life.

After some time, we were in desperate need of a break from Penang, and decided on an easy change of scene, heading to Bangkok. 

Six years since we had visited Thailand's capital was a long time, and of course much had changed. But checking into our old favourite guesthouse on Soi Rambuttri, an off shoot of famous back packer area Khao San Road, we found enough familiar landmarks to remind us why we loved the place, and to be glad we had made the effort to move from Malaysia.

All the best people were born in the Year Of The Rabbit!

Random pig shrine (it is Bangkok, after all!)

Pimped out Bangkok truck

We've visited Bangkok SO many times over the years, and have made great efforts in the past to see much of the quirky parts of the city. It's actually quite an endeavour now to find something new to see or do. We always love the ferry on the Chao Phraya River, and especially enjoy the trip north to Nonthaburi to the markets there. At 16 baht (34 pence) for the roughly one hour ferry trip, it's great value, and was particularly pleasant on this visit with the temperatures in the high 30s. 

Yannawa boat shaped temple on the Chao Phraya River

Chatuchak Market is another favourite, and having visited so many times in the past, we by now knew the strategy- get there early, take water and have a plan. With 8,000 stalls and so many sections ranging from plants to pets to clothes, the place can be overwhelming. We knew exactly what we were looking for, and were able to get in, look around at a leisurely pace, buy a few items, and still leave before the hoards arrived and the weather heated up to unbearable proportions. 

We combined walking with the use of the fantastic Bangkok bus system to explore various new and random areas of the city. One interesting find was the Nightingale Department Store, a dusty reminder of times past, located in amongst the new colourful establishments of Bangkok's "Little India". A strange shop, it stood as though in a time warp - old fashioned clothes, games and beauty products sitting in cabinets as they must have done for decades. Ladies that looked as old as the products sat behind crumbling counters, surely not selling anything for days. 

Old fashioned department store, Bangkok

Dated and dusty displays

Evenings were spent eating as much yummy Thai fare as possible, making the most of the the wide variety of delicious food. After our first night attempting to walk along Khao San Road, and finding it an unpleasant mix of bar and massage touts and extremely loud music, we retreated to the more subdued Rambuttri strip, where we could enjoy a beer and people watch to our hearts content. Fruit shakes were consumed at least once a day- the heat was so intense, we were forever unable to quench our thirsts. Mangoes and durian were the most prevalent of all the fruits in season- we scoffed plenty of the former, and none of the latter. 

Enjoying the Bangkok night life

Huge selection of fruit shakes to choose from, Bangkok

Rich's second month of recovery in Thailand was spent with a lot of walking the streets, and up and down the ever-present stairs in Bangkok (including three flights up to our room). When we moved location from our cheap and cheerful guesthouse in the traveller haven of Banglamphu to the slightly more upmarket hotel on the other side of Bangkok, he restarted gym work, and swimming in the rooftop pool. By the time we left, his knee was well on the way to being completely healed, and he was able to walk and exercise for long periods without too much discomfort. This was such an amazing contrast from the pain he had experienced for such a long time before he underwent the knee replacement operation. We hoped it would mean a whole new lease of life for us both, and for what we were able to achieve travelling. We were excited to start travelling again for the second half of 2024!

Bangkok klong scene

Old style Bangkok architecture

Didn't try, but sounds revolting

Banglamphu Park, Bangkok

.......next up, fun and lots of train travel in Bulgaria.........

SWEATY SPELLS AND SHITE SPIRITS- Penang, Malaysia

 ..........previously, our first, and probably only blog post about foodie matters, Penang, Malaysia......

Rickshaw driver taking a nap, Penang, Malaysia

Apologies in advance- this blog is going to be quite long. Rather than spitting it in two, we wanted to keep the theme and publish it as one post. There won't be another for a few months at least after we leave Penang. So, hopefully you will enjoy, despite the length!

Much of our explorings and day to day routine in Penang revolved around Georgetown. There is something intangible about the atmosphere in Georgetown - the mix of ancient, retro and new come together like no other place. Small lanes with tiny age-old businesses and shopkeepers can be found, the walls mouldered from the constant humidity. Haphazard footpaths are the norm and scattered pieces of street art, some already faded in the sun, are around every corner. Old men sleep in their cycle rickshaws, people push carts around the streets selling goods, silent bicycles whirl by, and minuscule red shrines can be seen with mini bearded Gods inside. There is an old fashioned sheen to everything that is highly appealing to us.

Contrasting tile styles, Georgetown, Penang

Kim Novak, for all your children's school uniform needs. Random

Lovely yellow mosque entrance, Georgetown, Penang

Little laneway shrine, Georgetown, Penang

Love the old signs, Georgetown, Penang

Close to the Noble Hotel is Little India. Mostly Tamil in population, it is full of the magnificent smells of wafting Indian food and incense offerings, and the pulse of often ear-splitting Hindi pop. Add in the flower sellers with their fabulous array of beautifully coloured offerings, and the fashion shops with Indian-styled outfits in every hue imaginable, Little India is a fantastic place for a wander.

Setting up shop, Little India, Penang

Little India colour, Penang

Also in the Georgetown mix is Antarabangsa Bar. A unique place in Malaysia with cheap alcoholic drinks and back street seating, this bar is extremely popular with locals and visitors alike. Many a night was spent here with good company (and many nights with rubbish conversation!), and Sal reluctantly weaned herself off Balkan rakia, and onto the crappy local rice wine. We did sorely miss the good quality beer and spirits from the Balkans. But nothing is ever 100% perfect, and we dealt with it!

A quiet afternoon at Antarabangsa Bar, Penang, Malaysia

While not as exotic as Little India, the colonial area of Georgetown is of interest for it's grand European-style buildings, mostly now either turned into governmental offices, fancy eateries or hotels. The British East India Company, represented by Francis Light, negotiated to be given Penang island in return for British military aid and protection in the late 1770s (hence the name Georgetown, named after George III.). Especially pleasant in the colonial area is sunset on the esplanade near Fort Cornwallis, where locals gather to enjoy the cool sea breezes.

Esplanade, Penang, Malaysia

Colonial Town Hall, Penang, Malaysia

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Malaysia is known for it's variety and tolerance when it comes to religion, and Penang island, being so compact seems an intense microcosmos of that diversity. The main faiths in Penang reflect the biggest ethnic groups- Malays, Chinese and Indians. 

So many prayer wish topics, Buddhist Temple Penang

Beautiful room, Buddhist Temple, Penang

Kapitan Keling Mosque, representing Islam, is a glorious white domed building in central Georgetown, down the road from the more modest Lebuh Aceh Mosque, built by the Acehnese in the 19th century and resembling a lighthouse. Tanjung Bungah's Masjid Terapung juts out magnificently into the sea in the north of the island. Interesting fact- all Malaysian Malay people are Muslim by law.

Kapitan Keling Mosque at dusk, Penang, Malaysia

The unusual Aceh Mosque, Penang

Tanjung Bungah's Masjid Terapung, Penang

The Tamil population's Hindi temples stand out for their vibrant colours and busy paint work. When we travelled in India, the Tamil temples of southern India were our least favourite buildings- they just all seemed a bit too over the top and Disney-like. Here, however, somehow they balance out the other religious buildings and fit in perfectly.

A faithful's mark on each step leading to the hilltop temple, Penang, Malaysia

Siva with his trident, Waterfall Temple, Penang, Malaysia

View from the top of Waterfall Hindu Temple, Penang

The Chinese have a number of faiths represented all over Penang- Taoist, Buddhist, Christian, as well as their own kind of folk religion. Particularly noticeable around Georgetown are the numerous secret little shrines down side streets and under trees. 

Tiny red shrine, Georgetown, Penang, Malaysia

Colourful Chinese incense sticks, Penang, Malaysia

Neo-classical style St George's Anglican Church, Penang, Malaysia

Then there's the less common assemblies- Baptists, Catholics, Sai Baba's followers, Sikhs, Evangelicals and many others. These religious groups are mostly represented with substantial buildings indicating large followings.

All the main languages of Penang on one Sai Baba sign

Would love to know what goes inside this one

For us, though, the Buddhist community has the most evocative and spectacular temples. Burma Road is a treasure trove of dramatic and dazzling temples serving the mostly Thai and Burmese worshippers. Kek Lok Si temple in Air Itam, as gaudy as it may be construed, must be the height of kitsch Buddhist Chinese temple architecture. Last time we visited it was during Chinese New Year celebration, and the sight of the temple lit up up like a Christmas tree was absolutely astonishing. 

Lucky tortoises in the temple grounds, Penang

Sitting Buddha, Burmese Buddhist Temple, Penang

 Golden stupa, Burmese Temple, Penang

Giant statue inside Buddhist Temple, Penang

Representations of how different countries portray Lord Buddha

It could only be the exterior of the local Thai Buddhist Temple, Penang

Looking out over the city, Kek Lok Si Temple, Penang

Rows of Buddha tiles, Kek Lok Si Temple, Penang

Pagoda, Kek Lok Si Temple, Penang

Funny, colourful Buddha, Kek Lok Si Temple, Penang

That the many religions of Penang, and Malaysia, co-exist amicably is a wonderful example of harmony and peace.

Warm light, Buddhist temple, Penang

Buddhas in the garden, Penang, Malaysia

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Other days were spent in various contrasting parts of Penang island. The beaches in the north weren't spectacular, but a pleasant place to read a book in the shade, enjoy the constant ocean breeze and feel some sand between our toes. It had been about a year since we had been at the sea, and we looked forward to returning. 

Happy to be on the sand, Tanjung Bungah, Penang

Tanjung Bungah Beach, Penang

Small waterway, Tanjung Bungah, Penang

A walk up Penang Hill was not tempting due to the thick air and high temperature. We have done it before, once, and it nearly killed us! The Botanic Gardens was a fabulous alternative. The gardens are set into the thick jungle of the hill, and are a wonderful spacious place to join the locals for some exercise. Early in the morning, strollers take advantage of the cooler temperatures and walk the circuit of the gardens. For us, a slower stroll was required at first to spot the many tropical plants and dazzling setting, before a more speedy couple of laps. Colossal trees with massive seed pods, exotic flowers, vines and giant leaves stand on manicured lawns, and the air is perfumed and alive with the sounds of insects, birds and monkeys.

Stunning tropical flower, Botanic gardens, Penang, Malaysia

Delicate fungi, Botanic gardens, Penang, Malaysia

Blue tounged monitor lizard, Botanic gardens, Penang, Malaysia

Various markets visits were a must. The Hin Bus Depot market was a new one for us. A bit of a hipster hangout, this is a lovely place to linger on a Sunday, listen to DJs play some 80's music, browse the second-hand clothes and vintage junk, and people-watch the trendy and alternative population of Penang. The Thieves Market is a completely different scene, with everyday items such as tools and electronic goods being sold alongside second-hand clothes and antiques of a sort. Even early in the morning the crowds and heat, not to mention the long walk to get there, made for a draining experience.

Retro junk for sale, Hin Bus Depot Market, Penang

Food area at Hin Bus Depot Market, Penang

Phone interest, Penang, Malaysia

One of the pleasures of arriving and departing Penang island, has always been the big old ferry, cars on the bottom and passengers up top, slowly chugging it's way from Butterworth to Georgetown and back. The fresh air and views from every direction of the open sided vessel was an agreeable way to move between the mainland and Penang. Unfortunately, this experience has now been replaced with the awful, cramped old Langkawi ferries. With no outside area, everyone is now packed inside with freezing cold AC, no room for luggage and no hope of escape should the thing go down in the sea. As we left Penang, we were not impressed and hoped this situation would be temporary. 

Poor old ferry in the dock, Penang, Malaysia

Although we hadn't at all tired of Penang, a special place further north called to us. Now that Covidian entry requirements in Thailand had been abandoned, we planned a couple of months in Ko Fruitopia, our healing place, which we had previously visited most years around this time. We had been shut out for too long, and felt the need to return. We for sure will be back in Penang, though- it's such a fantastic place to hang out, with really good vibes and heaps to do and see (and eat!). Stay tuned............

A wee rest climbing some temple steps in the midday heat, Penang

Made it to the top, Sal happy in Penang

.......onto our beloved Ko Fruitopia for the first time in more than 3 years........