UPS AND DOWNS OF A SEASIDE HOLIDAY - Herceg Novi, Montenegrin Coast

 ......previously, our tootling around Northern Serbia enjoying the springtime........

Walking around beautiful Herceg Novi

Excited to head to the beach and take some sun on our bodies after so long in the Middle East, we headed to the new and shiny train station in Belgrade for the trip down south. Whilst it was very grand and spacious, we much preferred the daggy, quiet version we had encountered on our previous visits to this train station. No doubt travellers before us also preferred when the train station was in the central part of Belgrade before being moved out to a woop woop suburb.  

As we waited for the famous Belgrade to Bar train to arrive, we nervously looked around at the hoards of people continuously arriving on the platform. We had been advised that this was still the quiet time of the season (early in June), and the train would probably be nearly empty. Not the case! As the train pulled in, a bit of a scrum occurred in a rush to board. 

On the train, we found ourselves in a tiny cabin without much room to turn, sit or stand, with four Russians. As the day train for this route hadn't begun yet, the beds were set up for sleeping, and all we could do was lie down. The heat was intense and we couldn't see out the windows. It was dark anyway, and the Russians kept closing the door and windows for the entire journey. It was quite an unpleasant trip with no air, and not much sleep was had. When the conductor came around shouting out the arrival at Podgorica station in the morning, we spilled out into the fresh morning air, bleary eyed and with some relief.

As tired as we were, we couldn't help but marvel at the lovely scenery on our bus trip along the coast to Herceg Novi. Passing by several famous and extremely busy-looking resort towns, we were glad we had chosen our destination. Tall green mountains came right down to the shores of picturesque Kotor Bay, and town after town stretched up the hills overlooking the water. The traffic was intense in places, with jams and roadworks, we certainly weren't expecting that so early in the season. Seems everyone was keen on an early beach holiday this year!

Finally reaching our destination, we easily found our little apartment with a view down to the sea, unpacked and flaked out. 

Herceg Novi town was like no other place we had visited. It brought to mind some fictional idyllic version of summer Mediterranean coastal life seen in a lush movie. The town was dramatically set into hills that ran down to Kotor Bay, steeply stepped paths took us to the old town center, with it's pretty umbrellaed cafes, cobble stone streets, fountains and charming churches. Not one, but three castles sat strongly and looked out at the glorious blue water of the bay- a perfect vantage point for spotting incoming ships. Around every corner was a lovely scene of flowering vines draped over wrought iron balconies on aging buildings, and stone steps leading down and around inviting corners. The fragrance of jasmine and other flowers from the beautiful gardens in the grounds of bigger villas followed us through the winding lanes. Footpaths were speckled with shade and bright bougainvillea and oleanders, and made walking a sheer delight. The ever-present views of the sea sparkling in the dazzling sunshine with small yachts and the occasional huge cruise ship entering from the Adriatic Sea could be seen from all over town.

A town of steps, Herceg Novi

Tunnel under the fort, Herceg Novi

Character filled laneways, Herceg Novi

Overlooking Kotor Bay from Herceg Novi old town

Color and fragrance, Herceg Novi

A hero amongst the greenery, Herceg Novi

What's behind the green door, Herceg Novi

Ornate water pump in town square, Herceg Novi

Herceg Novi old town square

Then there was the trudge back up the hill! Even though our wee apartment was not terribly far from the sea, the 342 steps (yes, Rich counted them!) was tough on our legs at first. After a week or so, however, we became used to the walk and it became somewhat easier. 

The steps were a killer coming up!

Warm colours around Herceg Novi old town

During our month stay the weather slowly changed from nicely warm to fiercely hot, and as the school holidays started, many more visitors arrived. It didn't really impact on us, we still enjoyed strolling about the town and the waterfront promenade, taking some sun on the pebbly beaches, braving a dip in the refreshingly cool and clear sea and relaxing on our balcony at home. The view of the sunlight reflecting on the sea, and listening to the church bells ringing gently every hour was delightful.

Strolling along the waterfront, Herceg Novi

Herceg Novi seafront

Remnants of a fortified part of the town

Early morning reflections, Herceg Novi

We love the vibe of a European beach holiday, and find it interesting watching Balkan culture at the coast. Balkan holiday makers are very tolerant with the sun, some spending hours on the beach soaking up the rays. We weren't quite so intense, but still felt the huge benefits of some sunshine on our bodies, and felt healthy and happy as a result. 

Our favourite beach, before the crowds came!

Tourists loved the waterfront and old town cafes, and the busy atmosphere and people watching were wonderful. We had our favorite café by the St Michael Archangel Orthodox Church, particularly interesting on a Sunday when people streamed in dressed modestly to pray, a big difference from the scantily clad outfits the rest of the time! One lazy Sunday afternoon, we must have looked relaxed and happy, as the waitress offered us a rakia on the house! Of course we accepted.

Beverages at the church, Herceg Novi

The tiny central market, while cute and inviting, with its little stalls and attractive produce, turned out to be most disappointing. The small amount of fruit available was ridiculously over priced- we found it cheaper to buy from the less atmospheric super market. We did, however, admire the cured meats and cheese section, the smell alone was worth a visit!

We enjoyed a few trips along the coast to nearby towns, each with its own character. Igalo in particular had a great, old style vibe, with communist-era high-rises, retro municipal buildings and shady local parks. Bijela, in the other direction was a cute and ramshackle beach holiday place catering to many families, also with a lovely atmosphere. 

Incredible abandoned swimming pool, Igalo

Retro vibes in Igalo, near Herceg Novi

We experienced a relatively minor drama when our laptop decided to stop working, and we upsettingly lost a load of photos, videos and information files from our Middle Eastern travels (not to mention having to buy a new laptop). 

One of three forts in Herceg Novi, Fort Mare

Sal's new discovery, surutka, great for the gut!

We absolutely loved our month on the Montenegrin coast, and it was exactly the Balkan summer break we had envisioned and hoped for. Sadly, towards the end of our stay, Sal's Mum passed away, which saw us rapidly changing our plans to get her back to Melbourne to be with family as soon as possible. 

Sal in a charming lane in Herceg Novi

Rich with a giant anchor, Herceg Novi

More steps and a bike, Herceg Novi

.....coming next, more travels to random and engaging Serbian towns.........

FIVE TRAINS AND HOLY DAYS - East Croatia and Budapest, Hungary

.....our fabulous last stops in Bosnia- Sarajevo, the capital, with some giant balls thrown in.....

Autumn in the Balkans

Saying goodbye to Bosnia, and the less than perfect Bosnian train system, we left for Croatia on a very early morning bus from Zavidovići, home of the giant balls. We're always dubious about buses. This time, after squeezing onto a tiny minibus with a couple of old men, we were driven a short distance to a depot where many big buses were parked. We were motioned off our minibus to stand in the freezing cold, but with no-one speaking English, and us having no idea what was going on, we were slightly apprehensive. Of course, being the Balkans, everything turned out to be fine. After some time, we were shepherded onto a smart and comfortable large bus and everyone was very accommodating and kind. We then set off for a tour of northern Bosnia's petrol stations, as for some reason this bus company didn't drive into towns or use bus stations to pick up their passengers. As usual for this part of the world, the border procedure was quick and smooth, and immediately after crossing we arrived in Slavonski Brod, a small town just inside eastern Croatia. 

We knew we would be arriving into Croatia on a Sunday, and that the country is overwhelmingly Catholic, but we don't think we have ever been in a place that was so completely closed up and devoid of life on a holy day. Walking through the deserted neighbourhoods between the station and our guesthouse was like being in a ghost town, and we were relieved to see our friendly host's smiling face upon arrival. 

Locals here were perfectly lovely, probably because they don't get many tourists in this part of Croatia. We had wanted to see a normal Croatian town, and break our journey on the way to Budapest. Although Slavonski Brod probably didn't offer a great deal in the way of sights, it had excellent pedestrian paths for wandering, free local buses and enough to keep us occupied for a couple of days. 

Disused tram, Slavonski Brod, Croatia

We visited the first star fort that we can remember, although the remains were well covered up for the most part. After a stroll along the Sava River (which we know so well in Belgrade), the pedestrianized central square, and a peek inside a small monastery with an unfriendly nun, we finished up at a sunny, and cheap cafe at the atmospheric central market. Autumn produce was now on sale at markets, with cabbages and cauliflower being both giant and abundant.

Under the star fort, Slavonski Brod, Croatia

VERY good market rakija, Slavonski Brod, Croatia

This picture is not stretched! Strangely shaped cabbages, Slavonski Brod, Croatia

Just as the weather had immediately turned sour on our arrival into Bosnia, it turned sunny and lovely the day we left and entered Croatia. It was unknown to us if it was a result of the relentless spraying of God-knows-what in the skies, but we were happy to return to the sort of autumn weather we remembered from past years- bright and sunny, but cooler temperatures. 

Our first train travel day in Croatia was a brilliant one! Two fantastic trains took us from Slavonski Broad to Osijek, a town in the north of eastern Croatia, near the Hungarian border. The first was an extremely comfortable, spacious, up to date and clean compartment, very Western European in style. We had the entire compartment to ourselves, with the others being taken up with noisy teenagers on their way home from school. The second was more simple, and in an older style, but equally comfortable and uncrowded. 

Comfortable and clean Croatian train

Extremely spiffy Croatian train toilet

The landscape in this part of Croatia was mainly flat agricultural, but with the soft autumn light fading in the late afternoon and the golden leaves on the trees, it was quite lovely. 

Osijek was another neat Croatian town, with many ornate Austro-Hungarian designed buildings. We were still adjusting to the orderly nature of Croatia, with most homes having perfectly kept gardens and uniformly mown lawns, and city streets near to spotless, no rubbish to be seen. We weren't sure if we liked it or not! 

Stone street in Osijek, Croatia

After the Ottomans had been booted out of this part of Croatia in the 1600s, it is said the Hapsburg Empire took over and began the building of Osijek's fort, which would evolve over a couple of hundred years. In today's world, and on the Saturday we visited, it was a bizarre empty part of the city, with large squares and unanimated grand buildings, mostly in good upkeep, standing quietly, but without life. Hopefully it looks and feels different during the week, with university students and business bringing some spark to the place. 

Empty fort area, Osijek, Croatia

Preparing for winter, Osijek, Croatia

Like a ghost town, old fort area, Osijek, Croatia

Osijek had one of the best fresh markets we have seen in the Balkans. A very different vibe to the slightly disordered and messy style elsewhere, this one was neat and spaciously set out with charming little wooden stands. Most stalls had a small amount of beautifully presented autumn produce, some just specializing in a couple of things eg. pumpkin and spinach from their gardens. Everything was local, fresh and appealing, and mostly clearly marked with the prices. People were smiley, and the mushroom man in particular was very proud when we showed interest in his small selection of giant mushrooms. A huge assortment of varieties of fruit were all clearly labelled, with the apple choices being the most diverse.

Flower section of Osijek market, Croatia

Great variety of apples, Osijek, Croatia

Giant fungi (on the right), Osijek, Croatia

Again a fantastic town for walking, we strolled to our heart's content around the old section of Osijek and the gorgeous parklands a free ferry away on the opposite side of the Drava River. The highly ornamental so-called neo-Gothic cathedral was being renovated and closed for business (the story of our lives when it comes to cathedrals), and the fancy houses on Europska Avenue blew our minds with their next level examples of embellishments and weird decorations. 

Beautiful autumn park Osijek, Croatia

View across the river, Osijek, Croatia

Impressive (and closed) Catholic cathedral, Osijek, Croatia

Extreme ornamentation on Osijek's Europska Avenue

Of course, Croatia is more expensive than other Balkan countries, having recently adopted the Euro, and being inside the EU. We were glad we had stocked up on many items in Bosnia before we left, the prices were that different. 

Quirky riverside statue, Osijek, Croatia

Croatia sort of grew on us for the brief two weeks we were there (although we only visited two random towns in the untouristed eastern part). At first as we crossed the border from Bosnia, it's not an exaggeration to say there was a subtle feeling of leaving the east and arriving in the west. Presumably because of its being an EU country, standards here seemed higher and more exacting in many ways, and residents more affluent. Not only were the towns weirdly neat and tidy, with no rubbish or dog poo anywhere, generous pedestrian paths and extensive bike tracks alongside most roads provided an extremely pleasant way for locals to get around. Residents took advantage of this benefit, and the number of bikes whizzing by us was considerable.  The bus and train stations were so well organized with electronic signage on the platforms and station announcements, as well as buses and trains having the destination clearly marked on the vehicle.

Keeping things orderly on walking paths, Croatia

Clearly marked train, Croatia

There was a marked difference to the more unorganized and slightly chaotic vibe of all our favourite countries further east. Never having been in Croatia before we weren't to know if this was representative of the entire country, but we hoped to find out more if we were able to travel here more extensively in the future.

Our short route through north-east Croatia

We were surprised and delighted to find out that a series of trains would be able to carry us from Croatia to Budapest. We had thought this not possible, but the friendly staff in the railway station in Osijek helped us out, and we had a ticket in our hand for three separate train journeys and a day on the railways of Croatia and Hungary. The train scenery was once again spectacular, with brilliant shining autumn colours and natural beauty galore. It inspired us to make a return trip sometime to explore Hungary's countryside. The only (small) catch on the trip was an antagonistic Hungarian train conductor on the last leg, who informed us we needed to buy an additional ticket to the one we had already purchased in Croatia. Although his manner was clearly unhelpful, several fellow passengers in the carriage stepped up and assisted us in English by explaining what the problem was. We were grateful, and the situation was soon resolved pleasantly.

Mini train that would take us across the border from Croatia to Hungary

Inside tiny border train- Croatia to Hungary

Budapest was such an enormous contrast to the Balkan countries we had been travelling in for the past four months, it was almost too much to take it in. Only having a couple of days stay in the gigantic city, we didn't have enough time to understand much about the country. The strange language, the customs of people and the history would have to wait for another trip when we could explore in depth. Instead we spent a couple of days simply wandering and enjoying the sunny days and breaking the "Budapest Curse" we had imposed on ourselves from our first time in the city. We had not been impressed with the place on that visit, with the summer hordes being overwhelming. Although this time our stopover was in late October, the tour groups were still out in force, although now we were ready and had a plan to avoid them. We crossed the busy Széchenyi Lánchíd chain bridge to the "Buda" side of Budapest and spent a perfect day walking around serene parks and paths along the cliffs, looking down to stunning views of the bustle of the Danube River.  

We loved the autumn leaves in the parks, Budapest

Monument on the Buda side of Budapest

Stunning autumn colours, Budapest

Happy in Budapest park, broke the curse!

An extremely intriguing figure in the Philosopher's Park

Looking down at the Danube from a walk in the hills, Buda, Budapest

Back in the city we marvelled at the multicultural nature of Budapest, with so many immigrants from far flung parts, and the corresponding amounts of businesses with Turkey, Kashmir, Vietnam or Kabul in their names. This was so incredibly different from the Balkan countries which tend to be less attractive for foreign incomers to stay in. 

Very Hungarian sign, Budapest

Extremely ornate architecture all over Budapest

Our apartment was what we assumed to be typically Hungarian, with all three places we have stayed in the country having been in the same distinctive style. The area was predictably dodgy, with a proliferation of rubbish, down and outs, beggars and drunks. Overall, Budapest was an excellent break in the journey, and a good place to organize ourselves for our long trip back to South East Asia.

Apartment entrance Budapest, Hungary

Typical Hungarian courtyard style

The time had come for our annual pilgrimage to the sea gypsies and islands in the south of Thailand. We will spend our winter there, as we have done for many years. We will miss the many aspects about being on the road in the Balkans, but also look forward to the easy, laid back, beachy life we will have on Ko Fruitopia. So, no more blogs for some months while we go off grid as they say, and we will see you on the other side!

Bye from us for now!

.......after our stay in Thailand, we head for a new country- Oman......