Those who have read a few of our blog posts know we are extremely fond of train travel (hence the blog title!). We're attracted to countries we can explore by rail, and Egypt is one of those destinations. On deciding we'd had enough of Luxor, we booked two tickets for the day train to Cairo. We had done this trip in reverse years ago, but remembered very little from that time. We did notice the ticket stated a journey time of ten hours, and thought that seemed very ambitious. But as we had decided on the 04.50am (!) train out of Luxor, we figured even if it was a few hours late, we should still arrive in the capital before dark.
The train was filthy, painfully slow, stopped and started constantly, and jerked violently every time it braked. It was also 15.5 hours in total. But actually, the seats were very large and comfy, and we had books and music to keep us occupied, as well as the scenery out the window, and overall it wasn't as bad as it could have been. Luckily, the hostel we were staying at in Cairo was used to late arrivals, and greeted us warmly.
Entrance to the old building where our hostel was situated, Cairo
Cairo is one our favourite cities in the world, and even in our exhausted stupor upon arrival, we immediately felt positive being there. There's something about the combination of the grand yet decrepit buildings, relaxed people, pulsing traffic and busy crowds on the streets that's an immediate pick-me-up. We felt a huge difference from Luxor with the brightness of the place- it seemed lit up like a Christmas tree and almost hurt our eyes. Other differences were the extensive range of fashions in the glitzy clothing shops, the amount of women out and about, and the huge number of fast food eateries/restaurants/cafes everywhere we looked- the choice seemed endless. We could relax a bit too, and not be asked constantly what are our names, where are we from, do we want a taxi etc. Cairo was refreshingly free of touts and scammers for the most part. Most interactions were of a friendly and mellow type.
Food stall, Cairo
Islamic Cairo
Antique shop, Cairo
Sexy gear for sale, Cairo market
Waking up in Cairo streets
Wonderful light streaming into Cairo mosque
We spent a whole month in Cairo in 2020 (here and here), and were captivated by walking around the contrasting areas, and especially with the old Islamic architecture. We found so much to see we actually ran out of time! This time, a week was enough as we keenly felt the need to move on to the coast and appreciate some beach time as the weather improved.
Dahab was inhabited pretty much solely by Bedouin people until the 1980s when Israelis and hippies discovered the laid-back coastal town. Situated on the Sinai peninsula, the town was still fairly quiet and low key even on our last visit in 2007. We had heard it had expanded in popularity since then, but weren't quite prepared for the explosion of tourism we discovered upon arrival. The first few days were extremely hard to adjust, as we struggled to find a place of calm (both somewhere to stay and mentally). Coming from very quiet Luxor, and very "Egyptian" Cairo, Dahab felt like another world. It didn't help that the overnight bus from Cairo was long and slow due to the many security stops, and we take longer to recover from such journeys these days!
The colours are real!, Dahab, Egypt
We were lucky to have a friend staying in a wonderful, arty camp, where we got a great deal on a cute little A-frame hut that would have been quite at home on a South East Asian beach. At one time the whole of Dahab was made up entirely of camps- basic compounds with rooms around the perimeter, a courtyard with seating in the middle and shared bathroom and kitchen facilities. Some still remain, alongside the newer villas and hotels, and are still popular with budget travellers. Ours was nice in that it catered to both foreign and Egyptian guests. Most of the latter were from Cairo, and were predominantly young professionals who were friendly and spoke English perfectly, many working for good wages in foreign IT companies. Although they didn't drink alcohol or take drugs, they did love late nights full of music, drumming, singing and dancing around the campfire. We mostly enjoyed the fun and it was great seeing them let loose a bit on holiday from work and home. On the odd occasion the noise went on into the wee hours, and we had to ask them to quieten down, they were always polite and respectful. In some ways, the camp was quite conservative, which was fine by us. One example was when a crazy German guy was thrown out for wandering around naked in the unisex bathrooms!
The resident artist at El Rayga Camp, Dahab, Egypt
Our home for two months, El Rayga Camp, Dahab, Egypt
Musical evenings, El Rayga Camp, Dahab, Egypt
Plenty of chill-out opportunities, El Rayga Camp, Dahab, Egypt
The town of Dahab is difficult to describe. It certainly had a completely different feel to everywhere in Egypt we had been. Russian expat families, Egyptian tourists, backpackers, divers, nouveau hippy wannabees and digital nomads coexisted quite harmoniously with the Egyptians who had moved to Dahab from other parts of the country and the local Bedouin people. There was quite a mix, and it somehow seemed to work. Although we weren't hugely impressed by the atmosphere of the town, it was definitely nice to be able to walk completely freely and without almost any hassle at all. People were so relaxed and used to seeing foreigners, we were no big deal, and that was a pleasant feeling!
Shop in main street, Dahab, Egypt
Meandering along the busy seafront, Dahab, Egypt
Other advantages such as a variety of foods, cafes and restaurants we had never seen before in Egypt were welcome (although not particularly needed for our waistlines). We took advantage of the plethora of European style breakfasts and cakes, as well as our favourite Egyptian delights. The frenzied town centre with stalls selling colourful clothes and Bedouin trinkets, dive schools and fish restaurants petered out in each direction and was replaced with paths perfect for refreshing long walks and peaceful long beaches.
One of our favourite eateries, Dahab, Egypt
Selection of Egyptian drinks- surprisingly good!
The weather became properly hot in April, between 30 and 40 degrees, and we spent many a day lazing on the local beaches, mostly at the nearby Lighthouse area, on the tiny, rocky shoreline. We watched the divers hauling their gear in and out of the water, yoga freaks showing off in the most public of spots (there's always a few), and people generally enjoying cooling off in the clear water. Although Dahab beaches were hardly up to our high standards, and unfortunately often covered with dog crap from the many local strays, we found some pleasant venues to while away a few hours, and even dip our toes in the Red Sea. After so many years on Asian beaches, we are self confessed wimps when it comes to swimming in any water cooler than body temperature.
Lighthouse beach scene, Dahab, Egypt
Got the blues, Dahab, Egypt
Creative rocks, Dahab, Egypt
Around Dahab, Egypt
After two months, our stay had to come to an end- there's only so much chilling out even we can take! Our experiment of trying Egypt as a potential winter hang out for the future had been useful and thought-provoking. We enjoyed our days in Luxor and Dahab, but we would not return to Egypt for a long-term stay in the winter months. The country is not built for chilly weather, as the cold only comes for a relatively short time, and the bitter desert evenings combined with no heating didn't suit us.
Our destinations within Egypt
Our spirits lifted greatly during April, as day by day many countries began to remove Covidian restrictions, and travel in certain areas suddenly became an option. Although our favourite haunts in Asia were still off limits to us, there was now a greater choice of where to spend the Northern Hemisphere summer. Where we would end up was anyone's' guess!! Stay tuned to find out!!
Sorry, we couldn't resist that cliched title- it is just such an apt description of exactly what we have been doing whilst in Cairo!
Glorious Islamic architecture, Cairo
We made the most of the cool days whilst in the city, and walked to a different area almost every day. We saw much of central Cairo on foot, and for those further afield places, we used a mixture of metro, Uber and buses. The downside to the cool weather/walking combination was the painful effect on Rich's knees, so we took plenty of rest days also.
Colourful veggie cart, Islamic Cairo
Cat in old doorway, Islamic Cairo
Ibn Tulun Mosque, Islamic Cairo
Quiet moment, Ibn Tulun Mosque, Islamic Cairo
Life imitating art, Islamic Cairo
Mamluk architecture, Islamic Cairo
Minarets and domes, Islamic Cairo
Islamic Cairo was a great highlight for us, and appealed to our love of wandering narrow laneways taking in beautifully falling down ancient buildings and streets. The old city's skyscape is very distinctive- the Mamluk era buildings (13th century) with their tall thin minarets and domes characterize much of Cairo. Delicate decorative stone doorways and gateways contrasted with impressively huge monuments surrounded by walls. Some ancient buildings were no longer functioning as religious monuments and quite devoid of life, and others, such as the massive white Al Azhar mosque were filled with people of all races, praying, finding peace and simply resting. We loved the gorgeous rich interiors of some of the mosques. Hanging lanterns, courtyards, carpets and marble inlaid designs combined with red and white stripey brickwork, faded intricately painted ceilings, stucco carvings, stalactite-like muqarna vaulting and stained glass, and created a wonderful atmosphere.
Gorgeous metal door design, Islamic Cairo
Interior mosque, Islamic Cairo
Hanging lamps, Islamic Cairo
Metal and stained glass, Islamic Cairo
Mosque cat, Islamic Cairo
Exquisite mosque covered hallway, Islamic Cairo
Carvings and lamp, Islamic Cairo
Detail on exterior of minaret, Islamic Cairo
The posh Al Azhar park on the outer part of the old city was a sparkling clean respite from the noise and chaos, and the views across to Old Cairo and the Citadel were sublime.
Dusty views from Al Azhar Park, Islamic Cairo
View of Citadel from Al Azhar Park, Islamic Cairo
Pretending to be posh, Al Azhar Park, Islamic Cairo
Citadel view, Al Azhar Park, Islamic Cairo
We found the last fez making establishment in Cairo- it seems amazing there is only one, but there unfortunately mustn't be much call for the red felt hats these days.
The last fez making establishment in Cairo
Some areas of the Islamic Cairo had been somewhat tarted up, presumably to be more tasteful for tourists. We found those parts with their near perfect footpaths, street sweepers and security everywhere to be less interesting then the grimy, rubbish and pot-hole-filled narrow back streets. Many buildings were sadly disused and looked ready to collapse.
Renovated part of Islamic Cairo
Lived in streets, Islamic Cairo
Stunning entrance, Islamic Cairo
Lovely sunken doors, Islamic Cairo
Tarted up part of Islamic Cairo
Moody morning, Islamic Cairo
Tips were always expected in monuments to open the door, let us look inside, mind our shoes...it's just a part of the culture here we had to get used to. Australians are not natural tippers!
Old and new, Islamic Cairo
A peek into a mosque, Islamic Cairo
Market incorporated into historic building, Islamic Cairo
Coptic Cairo is another area that has been heavily restored, but there was still a trace of life left. It was easy here to visit monuments- quiet, no traffic, no one asked for baksheesh and everything was free to enter. The downside was there was very little interaction with anyone either. It's difficult to find accurate numbers, but it's thought that about 10% of Egyptians are Copts. Despite having being in Egypt for millennia, and before Islam arrived, they have been treated with discrimination and even violence in recent years. Every Coptic building we saw was surrounded by a heavy military presence.
Ooh, shut that door! Coptic Cairo
St George's church, Coptic Cairo
Rich interior decoration, St George's church, Coptic Cairo
Mixed patterns around a church door, Coptic Cairo
Pew inside Coptic Cairo church
Cemetery, Coptic Cairo
Rich has really let his beard go!
Our afternoon in Heliopolis started out with a disappointment, as the last old tram of Cairo that used to run here had recently been discontinued. We took the Metro instead, appreciating the efficiency and function of the train, if not the beauty. An embarrassing incident occurred when Rich decided the massive Notre Dame Basilica church surrounded by police and army with a huge tank out the front would make a good photo subject. An angry policeman yelled at us and took away the camera. Another policeman inspected it and made Rich delete the offending photo. Rich used his usual charm to diffuse the situation and the mood quickly changed and soon everyone was friends- laughing and shaking hands. We poked our heads inside to briefly watch an interesting service taking place in French with African Catholic priests.
Not sure what to expect, we arranged for our hostel to book us an Uber to visit the Virgin Mary and St Simon Cathedral. St Simon lived in the 10th century, and is famous for having performed the miracle of moving Moqattam Mountain, the district where the cathedral complex has now been built. The slum surrounding the complex is home to the fascinating zabbaleen people, a Coptic clan who are responsible for collecting and dealing with Cairo's rubbish. The entire community was moved here in the 1960's, and walking through there to get to the cathedral was sobering. Families sat in big dark rooms sorting through the rubbish, other alcoves housed large machines for shredding plastic and other recyclables. It was a busy place, full of industry, but we couldn't help feeling depressed for the residents.
The actual cave cathedrals were lovely, light filled and with a soothing atmosphere. Seemingly bizarre quotes from the Bible, (apparently related to St Simon's life) were portrayed with carved scenes around the cathedral. Unfortunately, the tackier parts of the complex with huge simplistic carvings in the rock were overrun by obnoxious, noisy wealthy school children, who somewhat spoiled the mood.
Curious kid, back street, Moqattam, Cairo
Loaded up with rubbish, Moqattam, Cairo
Street scene, Moqattam, Cairo
Streets of Moqattam, Cairo
The Cave Cathedral of St Simon, Moqattam, Cairo
Fair enough
The quotes related to St Simon's life, apparently
St Simon church, Moqattam, Cairo
Other walks included the Nile-side neighbourhoods of Zamelek and Gezira, where we popped into the historic Marriott for a sticky beak (previously the palace of the afore mentioned Khedive Ismail). We also took the colourful little ferry across the Nile to Giza and walked back via the scruffy riverside Corniche and Garden City, and saw the glamorous, wealthy crowds boarding dinner cruisers along the river.
One walk early on in our stay saw us stumbling across a massive second hand clothing market. This proved quite handy, as we were both feeling the cold weather, and were able to purchase some extra layers for a couple of pounds.
Interesting picture made up of Arabic words
Resting in style at the Marriot Cairo
On the little ferry across the Nile
Fruit market, Cairo
Boats on the Nile, Cairo
Funky Pharaonic chick, Cairo
A cold shadow, Cairo
Massive gum tree, Cairo
All that walking created quite an appetite, and luckily, some of our favourite foods in the world were commonly available in Cairo. We basically lived on ta'amiya/felafel (deep fried chick pea patties), ful (bean dip), salad, flat breads, tahina (sesame dip), shwarma chicken and beef, shish tawook chicken (grilled chicken skewers), fried eggplant, kofta (minced lamb in a sausage shape), lentil soup and baba ghanoush (eggplant dip). We did try several new dishes too, including fiteer (Egyptian pizza) and hawawshi (sort of delicious burger in fried bread). This kind of food is cheap and varied in Cairo, and most of the time we paid about EGP40-60/UK£2-3 for a takeaway feast, or EGP100/UK£5 for a restaurant feast. We didn't pursue any alcohol whilst in Cairo- we just didn't feel like it. Instead, refreshing orange juice was available at many little juice stalls for about EGP5/UK£0.25. Strawberries, huge and sweet were Rich's fruit obsession during our stay, and we tried fresh dates for the first time (not to our taste!). The most amazing cake shop in the world was dangerously close to our hostel, and it must be said we visited it most days!
A yummy selection of dishes, Cairo
Fiteer, Egyptian pizza, Cairo
Kofta, shish tawook and other meaty delights! Cairo
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