A detour off
the train line was next, and we found a bus to our consequent
destination at the extremely friendly and helpful Uttaradit bus
station. It was a surprisingly fast trip- we began chatting and
looking out the window, then before we knew it, we had arrived in
Phrae.
Phrae relaxing Buddha, Thailand
We saw a hotel next to the bus station, and true to style lately, checked it out as an easy option to stay. It was amazingly grand for the price, with a huge foyer stuffed with ornate teak furniture and a large pool outside. The rooms were great- slightly worn, but fantastic value. The price of £12 even included breakfast. It was also practically deserted for most of our stay- maybe because of the time of year?
Ornate teak furniture in grand hotel foyer, Phrae
Fancy pants room, Phrae, Thailand
We both
immediately loved Phrae. Very different from any other places in
Thailand we have visited, it really had a small town feel. In the
central part there were no large chain shops, only family-run and
crafty/arty businesses, small scale and locally focused.
Luckily for us, Phrae promoted itself as a "slow cycle town", an idea which we absolutely loved. Many signs and maps showed various routes through the small streets of the old town to a plethora of sights along the way. We made do with the frankly dodgy bicycles we had hired at our hotel, but for £2 we could hardly complain! We relished the unhurried pace and mostly quiet atmosphere of our slow cycle days.
Loaded up mobile shop, Phrae, Thailand
Retro feel in a historic mansion, Phrae, Thailand
Wat Chom Sawan interior, Phrae, Thailand
It was a wonderful tour of venerable royal houses, old teak mansions, cute rustic coffee shops, the ancient city wall....we tried to remember the names and locations, but there was so much to look at in the maze of lanes. We stopped every few meters, became carried away with the charm of it all and lost track of details. Which was OK.
Amulets on display in old house, Phrae, Thailand
Cute teak cottage in Phrae temple gardens
Crumbling stupa, cycling around Phrae, Thailand
Old royal mansion, Phrae, Thailand
Lovely window, cycling around Phrae, Thailand
Mural on temple wall, Phrae, Thailand
Loved this photo of the old king, Phrae, Thailand
Each wat had
peaceful grounds with only tinkling bells breaking the tranquility. Some
were reminiscent of the commonly seen Thai wats with gold everywhere and Buddha statues.
Serene scene, cycling around Phrae, Thailand
Other examples were more unusual - ancient stone chedis and tall blinding white towers, and one in particular in a gorgeous dark teak Burmese style.
Unusual temple style, cycling around Phrae, Thailand
Detail inside Wat Chom Sawan
Stone chedi, cycling around Phrae, Thailand
Burmese style Buddha with light spirit, Wat Chom Sawan
Curious Burmese design, Wat Chom Sawan, Phrae, Thailand
Another day,
we travelled further afield by motorbike, which gave us a wonderful sense
of freedom. The wide and smooth roads were devoid of traffic when we
got out of the town center, and whizzing up the mountain side was a fantastic feeling. Thai forests rose on either side of the road with towering tamarind
trees and giant bamboo growing majestically.
Scenic waterway around Phrae, Thailand
Good luck helmet!
The first
stop was Wat Phra That Indra Kwaen, an extremely calm hillside
complex, deserted apart from a couple of people gently sweeping and
some sleeping monks. We walked up the many steps to a variety of
statues looking out to views of the surrounding forest. Rich was
determined to dong every gong and bell in the place- three times for
good luck, so we have been told. The highest structure was a golden
rock, covered in coin offerings, reminiscent of the Golden Rock in Burma.
Golden rock, Wat Phra That Indra Kwaen
Stupa, Wat Phra That Indra Kwaen
Rich having a go on every donger he could find
Gold overload, Wat Phra That Indra Kwaen
Further along the road was the
exceptional Wat Na Khuha complex. The temple was set in a verdant green
valley- rice and peanuts growing in surrounding fields, and a beautifully designed
garden full of flowering trees. Little spots in the shade had been created to sit and
rest and appreciate the scene with the backdrop of jagged hills and
forests. There was a lot of exploring to be done here, but we
satisfied ourselves with walking on the charming woven bamboo
boardwalk that crossed the fields to a lookout platform, and
surveying the absolute magic of the scene. The shining gold Buddha
sitting in the almost fluorescent green fields, the hills and beauty
of it all.
Enjoying the view at Wat Na Khuha, Phrae, Thailand
Beautiful tree in blossom, Wat Na Khuha, Phrae
Bamboo boardwalk, Wat Na Khuha, Phrae, Thailand
Explosion of colour at Wat Na Khuha, Phrae, Thailand
Green fields, Wat Na Khuha, Phrae, Thailand
The day ended
with us being too hot to function, and returning for a swim in our
luxury pool (!) and a rest in our AC room. We are so posh these days!
There seemed to be a lot of artisans and crafty people in Phrae. Women grouped in temple grounds or outside homes sewing, embroidering, making paper lanterns and religious offerings and weaving monks robes. Our favorite thing was the "mo hom", an indigo coloured, sturdy cloth made in local villages. Unique designs are sold widely in small shops around Phrae and surrounding towns, and are very popular amongst locals- we often saw people wearing various items of different designs. We both purchased a shirt in this gorgeous material, not quite believing the price of such a high quality item (less than £4 each). We were very tempted to buy more, but such is our lifestyle- if we buy it, we have to carry it, and that's very good motivation to keep things to a minimum.
Wat Chom Sawan, making monk's robes
Sal in new mo hom top
Best of all in Phrae were the friendly people! Locals looked so happy to see us, especially when we attempted a Sawadee or a few words of Thai, and seemed genuinely pleased that we were visiting their town and appreciating its beauty. We may have been giving out good vibes! Although we only stayed four or so days, we began to recognize people in the streets. One bearded man was particularly memorable, as he cycled around all day on a battered old bike, long wig streaming behind, and a different sun dress on every day!
Tinkering in a shop
Even the food
in Phrae was an improvement on the previous towns, the pedestrian
night market having most of our favorite Thai foods in a relaxed
setting.
We considered
staying on and shortening our time in Bangkok, but decided another
trip is on the cards when we have more time- we would
absolutely love to explore more of this amazing region of Thailand.
The whole trip, but Phrae in particular, revitalized our love for
Thailand, and reminded us there is much more to the country than Ko
Fruitopia!
Having a very much relaxed attitude towards booking in advance on this trip, we turned up back at Uttaradit railway station in the early afternoon hoping to travel on that evening's train to Bangkok. Unfortunately for us, the second class sleeper was booked out, so for the very first (and probably only) time in our lives, we opted for 1st class! It was only slightly more expensive (£23), and not really that fancy, but we were still excited. Boarding the train at 10.30pm, we were shown to our private little cabin, with two bunk beds and a sink, and immediately checked out what all the switches did. Some sleep was eventually had during the eight hour journey, before arriving in the early morning into Bangkok's massive new central station - Krung Thep Aphiwat Terminal.
Our little compartment on the 1st class train
Romance Hotel in Bangkok used to be our secret place we had found as an alternative to staying around Banglamphu. It was an absolute steal of a price, with pool and gym facilities included, and the bonus of being in a great little local area of the city, away from the backpackers. Mostly in the past it had been practically empty- Rich had been able to use the gym at anytime, and the pool was never crowded. This time, however, the hotel appeared to have been discovered, with many foreigners staying, and the surrounding streets having become busier. The price had also risen and the quality of the rooms decreased, and although it was fine for our stay in Bangkok this time, we thought we would probably not stay there again.
We spent our last few days in Thailand finishing up our business, and preparing for the next leg of our South East Asian trip, as well as making the most of having a roof top pool in the city!
.......next
up, we travel to Cebu in the Philippines...........
After our long and uncomfortable bus trips in Laos, it was a total breeze exiting the country and entering Thailand. It's been a long time since we were in Nong Khai, a border town near the Friendship Bridge with Laos. A quiet place, still with some cute old fashioned shops and houses, the people there are used to tourists, and we always enjoy the relaxed atmosphere. We have very good memories of Mutmee Guesthouse, a place we have met several of our good friends over the years. A long running institution and super popular with all classes of travelers, it's owned and presided over by the eloquent and loquacious Julian. He really makes the place with his social manner and local knowledge.
Little old shop in Nong Khai main street, Issan, Thailand
Old style pharmacy, Nong Khai, Thailand
Luckily nabbing the last available "cheap" room on arrival (£10- things have gone a little upmarket since our last visit!), we were happy to see the beautiful garden setting overlooking the Mekong River had not changed. Julian was still around the place, although in the process of handing over the run of things to the younger generation.
Mutmee's laneway, Nong Khai, Thailand
Garden setting, Mutmee, Nong Khai
The highlight of our Nong Khai stay was without a doubt the fantastic cycling along the riverside. We hired a couple of bicycles from Mutmee, and set off on a lovely (but blazing hot) morning, whizzing along the Mekong cycle path. Passing temples and rustic small cafes, we ended up out in the countryside, with beautiful scenery of small farms growing little tomatoes and big red chilis. Some small boats and fish farms held Rich's interest, and we kept going until the heat beat us.
Distorted us!
Beginning of the cycle path alongside the river, Nong Khai
Rich cycling along the Mekong, Nong Khai
Fertile fields, Nong Khai, Thailand
Farmer tending his crops, Nong Khai
Quiet river scene, Nong Khai, Thailand
In the evenings. the local night market selling food was right outside our door, and although the usual Thai fare was on offer, and mostly delish, the incredible volume of the various musical offerings was reason enough not to hang around too long!
As easy going as the ambience was in Nong Khai, we ran out of things to do after a couple of days, and decided to move on.
We had vague memories of a little green bus that took us on a lovely trip along the Mekong during our last trip here in 2011, and decided to recreate the jaunt again this time around. We weren't disappointed- the bus was delightful, a real rattler relic from the past. No AC, just windows kept open with bits of string, tatty old seats barely big enough for two (Western) bums and a wooden floor worn from years of use. Although the pace could be described as lethargic, we absolutely loved the breeze in our faces, spreading out on the tiny seats and taking it all in (and the spiffy Thai road surfaces!). The scenery was magnificent- tropical farms growing chilis and bananas, pineapple plantations and mango orchards. In some sections the road was a green tunnel with large overhanging trees and sweet smells from the flowers flowed through the bus. We followed the Mekong, and the river widened to include a fascinating area full of large rocks and islets. We were so relaxed on this journey. Even when, after four hours, the driver stopped and everyone got off and disappeared. We had no idea what was happening, but quite happily sat in the random bus station for a couple of hours until another, very fancy bus arrived and took us to our destination. Some things are very easy in Thailand.
Little green bus 2011!!
Little green bus 2026, not much changed!
Green bus driver, passengers and luggage
Continuing the easy streak upon arrival in Loei, we walked about 50 meters, and checked into a lovely hotel directly in the bus station, with a hilariously camp receptionist, giggly young cleaning ladies and comfy rooms.
Loei might statistically be the coolest province in Thailand, but it was still bloody hot during the day in March! We snuck out in the evenings and explored a bit of the center of town. The enormous Naga statue (river dragon spirit, and very popular in Issan), spouting water from it's mouth into a lake was surrounded by pleasant parks, with the usual Thai hordes madly exercising. Aerobics classes with loud music and shouty instructions competed with each other along the waterfront. Families enjoyed feeding the frenzied huge carp with bread from little bridges, and a small food market was nearby. There wasn't a great deal of choice in the food department in Loei, which is very unusual indeed for Thailand, but it could have simply been the area in which we had based ourselves.
Naga statue, Loei, Thailand
Bridge in central Loei, Thailand
Loei "ghosts", Issan, Thailand
The heat was getting to us in Loei, and we decided to keep moving north and see what the weather had in store for us there.
Another attractive bus ride took us along heavily forested roads, with gloriously treed hills stretching into the distance. We arrived in Phitsanulok, somewhat of a strategic crossroads of a town between Issan, and the northern and southern parts of Thailand.
First impressions of Phitsanulok were awful. Arriving early evening into a completely mad part of town adjoining the train station, there was so much noise and traffic, and we could hardly cross the road without being mown down by one of the thousands of loud motorbikes. The usually reliable big old hotels around the station were nothing to write home about, and a night without sleep due to incessant traffic saw us moving to a quieter area the following morning.
After this, things improved. We mulled over the fact that we have evolved in our travel style over the years. It isn't really surprising, considering how long we have been on the road! Years ago, we would always have stayed at the absolutely cheapest place we could find- often walking around for hours comparing prices. We loved the challenge and adventure of doing this, and often had engaging experiences to offset the effort. Nowadays, it's more important for us to find something quickly, and we usually settle on the first place we look at, if it's half decent, so we don't have to lug our packs around too long! We are also less tolerant of extreme heat, especially in the hot season (as it was in Thailand in March), and are more likely to go for AC in this situation. For those interested in such things, the dodgy, noisy place in Phitsanulok was less than £7, and the fancy AC hotel was £11, with breakfast. Not a big difference in price, but definitely in quality of rest!
Anyway, Phitsanulok turned out to be a friendly, but busy big town. We had travelled there in order to catch a train further north, but discovered it's a very important place for Thais due to it's historical significance as the second city of several dynasties, and home to several important temples and Buddha images. It also has an interesting mix of religions. We stayed beside an extremely inconspicuous mosque, and we saw several Christian buildings and people of different faiths selling their food in the markets.
A modern take, Phitsanulok wat, Thailand
Beautiful tiny figures in a wat, Phitsanulok, Thailand
We strolled both directions along the Nan River in the mornings, coming across many teams of elderly exercise groups, up early doing aerobics, tai chi, or simply walking before the heat arrived for the day. Some parts of the river had people living very humble lives on rundown houseboats, contrasting the richness of the many grand wats (temples). As usual, Rich stopped to chat with the local fishermen, and try to see what they were catching. One fellow showed us his best catch- a huge catfish, captured on his phone camera.
Very proud fisherman! Phitsanulok, Thailand
Simple chair on a houseboat, Phitsanulok, Thailand
Elderly people exercising with sticks, Phitsanulok, Thailand
Many, many simple gyms along the Nan River, Phitsanulok, Thailand
Morning market along Nan River, Phitsanulok, Thailand
River life, Phitsanulok, Thailand
Basic homes contrasting with rich wat, Phitsanulok, Thailand
We enjoyed the old Royal Palace of King Naresuan, thought to have been built in the 1300s, although there was not many buildings left to see, unsurprisingly, mainly foundations.
An unexpected statue amongst the ruins, Old Royal Palace, Phitsanulok
Photographic Buddha, Old Palace, Phitsanulok, Thailand
Exploring the old ruins, Royal palace, Phitsanulok, Thailand
Lonely little monkey in Royal Palace grounds, Phitsanulok
Glorious spreading tree in Old Royal Palace grounds, Phitsanulok, Thailand
The shrine commemorating the king within the complex was very chicken focused, which tickled Sal's fancy no end. We weren't able to find out the reason for the hundreds of chickens and roosters of all sizes scattered around the shrine, the most impressive were decorated like disco balls, shiny and silver!
Wat Chan Tawan Tok was the ultimate in bling, though- it's tall gold upon gold towers shimmered brightly against the blue sky and it was visible for miles down the river. Less impressive inside (it was still under construction), it was nonetheless a striking landmark. We rested from the heat in the glowing grounds watching devotees offering lotus flowers (only for the seller to regularly come and collect them for resale!). This wat didn't have disco chooks, but it did have something nearly as good- tiaraed rats!
Amazing bling on Wat Chan Tawan Tok, Phitsanulok, Thailand
Golden glorious staircase, Wat Chan Tawan Tok
Dressed up for some wat dancing, Phitsanulok, Thailand
Keeping hydrated, Wat Chan Tawan Tok
Collecting flowers for resale, Wat Chan Tawan Tok, Phitsanulok, Thailand
Tiaraed rats, why not?
Some other beautiful temples lined the river, many important to locals and pilgrims. A particularly unusual statue apparently covered in 15,000 layers of gold leaf, had no face, and was apparently a memorial for the recently deceased queen.
Classic style, Wat Ratchaburana, Phitsanulok
Heady remainders of an old wat, Phitsanulok, Thailand
We found multiple food night markets, as well as second hand clothes and homemade items for sale around the town. Overall, the food markets didn't seem to offer the same variety of goodies as the markets we are used to down south in Thailand.
Thai coffee truck, Phitsanulok, Thailand
Arty café, Phitsanulok, Thailand
The area around the train station was less manic during the day, with a basic day market, and rows of cute tuk tuks. Fruit galore was on offer, with large amounts of loquats, pineapples and mandarins seemingly in season.
The many forms of transport in Phitsanulok...........
Our favorite transport in Thailand, and a highlight of travel in the country are the simple third class trains. One of the best trips we did was in the Deep South of Thailand, and was based around these fantastic little trains. Basic wooden benches, open windows, and usually tons of room to spread out, we enjoy the breeze and the interactions with fellow passengers. The journey from Phitsanulok to Uttaradit included wonderful scenery, with rice paddies and ponds framed with palms trees, and many cute small stations along the way. One must be quick alighting and disembarking- sometimes the train only stopped for less than a minute! This train cost an unbelievable £0.50.
Waiting for the train, Issan, Thailand
Third class train, Phitsanulok to Uttaradit, Thailand
Small station along the train line, Phitsanulok to Uttaradit, Thailand
We had no idea what to expect in Uttaradit, and had really only travelled here for the train trip. There weren't many accommodation options marked on the map, but we headed for a place that seemed pleasant in the photos. Arriving at a lovely garden and guesthouse early morning, the receptionist showed us every room in the place- it was completely empty. The rooms were attractive and we agreed on a price. We were then informed we couldn't check in until 2.00pm! We tried to question it, indicating the unoccupied building. The woman just smiled in that infuriating Thai way, and wouldn't budge from her policy, except to say if we payed an extra night we could move in immediately! So, we picked up our backpacks and trudged in the heat to a different part of town and hotel where we found a much more agreeable and English-speaking hostess, who gave us a wonderfully cool AC room in which to collapse. For some reason, Uttaradit has very little in the way of taxi transport- there appeared to be no tuk tuks in town, and only a few motorbike taxis which were never around when one needed them.
The receptionist at the hotel found a place for us to hire a motorbike, and we met the seemingly hungover owner of the bike shop early the next morning. He was very thorough with his instructions, and it amused us how well we were able to communicate with him not having a word of English. We set off for Mae Phun Waterfall, a pleasurable drive some distance from town, loving the freedom of the bike and the utterly heavenly Thai roads! (See our Laos blogs for the reason for this appreciation!) The waterfall was OK, but the drive through the back roads was brilliant. Small farms and orchards grew durian and loquats, fields of onions lined the roads, and we passed through tiny farming communities with lovely wooden houses and huge open barns with onions hanging, drying in rows.
Mae Phun Waterfall, Uttaradit region, Thailand
Mae Phun Waterfall, Uttaradit region, Thailand
Sal being an idiot, Mae Phun Waterfall, Uttaradit
Shrine to a holy man, Mae Phin Waterfalls
The most beautiful butterfly, Mae Phun Waterfalls, Uttaradit region
Drying racks of onions, Uttaradit region
This trip was just what we needed- an easy and engaging few weeks of thoroughly enjoyable toodling around less visited parts of Thailand.
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