THE TIMES THEY ARE A-CHANGIN' - Vientiane and Vang Vieng, Laos

........on our last blog post, we were travelling in Serbia last year, hunting spomeniks.........

Vientiane's Buddha Park, Laos

The time since the last blog post has flown- it's hard to believe in September we were on the other side of the world with such a different routine and life! After a long stay in Penang and Ko Fruitopia over the Christmas period, we were excited to find ourselves in Laos, a country we had not visited in many years.

Our starting point, Vientiane, is not the most stimulating Asian city, probably one of the least interesting we have visited. It does, however, have one big draw- French/European food at bargain prices. The French were kicked out of Laos and the rest of Indochina in the 1950s, but their influence lives on through food. Fare varied from light and fluffy baguettes and pate as street food, to amazing cafes with cafe lattes and freshly baked pastries, and French restaurants with wine and all kinds of gourmet menus. It would be amazing coming here after some time out in the wilds of rural Laos, but as we were just starting out and not really craving such delights, we didn't indulge too heavily.

Extravagant shake concoction

Extravagant baguette concoction

Sights were thin on the ground in the capital, but we strolled around in the cooler weather looking at millions of Communist flags everywhere, some colonial architecture, and sorting out further travel options at the organised bus stations. The replica of the Arc de Triomphe was bizarre and apparently bigger than Paris's.

Paris or Vientiane?!

Rich's new Jag (he wishes!), Vientiane, Laos

Communist flags, Vientiane, Laos

Getting around Vientiane in a tuk tuk

The best day was spent taking the slow bus past the Thai Friendship Bridge to the Sala Kaew Ku Buddha Park on the border with Thailand. We had, years ago, very much enjoyed the Thai version and were keen to compare the two.

We had never really looked into the creator's background, but his biography shows him to have been an eccentric man with a spiritual background, and a cult following. After starting to create his Buddha Park in Vientiane, he fled to Thailand during the 1975 Communist revolution in Laos, where he built the twin park in Nong Khai.

Rich, coconut and cockerel, Vientiane, Laos

Serenity at Vientiane's Buddha park, Laos

The main sculpture at Sala Kaew Ku, Vientiane, Laos

Offering a woman, Buddha park, Vientiane, Laos

The Vientiane version was much smaller than the Thai, and in a pretty terrible state of repair. The gardens were tidy with many beautiful plants, but the concrete statues had been left to disintegrate, and we wondered what the entrance fee was being used for. Inside the main sculpture was a labyrinth of stairs and corridors leading to a Buddhist Hell-scape scene and a precariously dodgy lookout. 

Young monks enjoying the look out, Buddha park, Vientiane, Laos

Weird giants Gods, Buddha park, Vientiane, Laos

Buddhist Hell inside sculpture, Buddha park, Vientiane, Laos

Lucky we didn't take any notice of this sign!

Amazing banana plant, Buddha park, Vientiane, Laos

We were expecting the road from Vientiane to Vang Vieng to be atrocious, and we weren't wrong. Luckily we only had to endure four and a half hours of the dusty, bumpy, pot holed drive. There were endless rubber plantations and cement factories, alternating with small villages, and we passed some of the new Chinese built railway, seemingly constructed mostly for accessing industrial sites.

Not much room on Vientiane to Vang Vieng bus

On our trip to Laos 26 years ago, Vang Vieng was the most popular place with backpackers, with only two internet cafes providing those who needed it with contact with the outside world. We spend New Years Eve at a mad local street party dancing like idiots with little kids, and the following day with two friends floating down the Namsong River in rubber tubes in complete peace. At the time we thought Laos would be a good place to see in the new year of 2000- if the world stopped working, we wouldn't be effected too much in Laos!

An oldie from years ago in Vang Vieng, Laos

Climbing some unknown hill, oldie pic from Vang Vieng

A different looking Rich all those years ago!

26 years ago in Vang Vieng!

In most ways, the town was now totally unrecognizable to us, with nothing familiar from 1999, as one would expect! Vang Vieng is now a big, bustling town with noisy vehicles buzzing around and many cafes catering to the needs of backpackers. WIFI is everywhere, and bars and restaurants line the river for the hoards on a tubing adventure. But the vibe is still remarkably chilled out and we were pleasantly surprised how much we liked it!

Evening balloons over the hills, Vang Vieng, Laos

The river Namsong, Vang Vieng, Laos

Gorgeous scenery around Vang Vieng, Laos

We found a low-key rustic bungalow with views out to the karst mountains, and settled in for a few days of exploring the area.

Our simple stay in Vang Vieng, Laos

Spectacular view from our bungalow, Vang Vieng, Laos

We found many places where we were completely alone in the beautiful nature. Rich's amazing internal compass guided us to one particularity magnificent walk up a steep hill (Phra Poak), with not another soul in sight. It was quite a climb on jagged rocks up rickety wooden steps and bamboo ladders, but well and truly worth it for the view and sense of achievement. The rice fields surrounding the base of the hills were covered in faint paths for strolling, lovely and quiet, with the noise and bustle of Vang Vieng far in the distance.

Walking at the foot of the hills, Vang Vieng, Laos

Lovely scenery around the rice fields, Vang Vieng, Laos

Starting the climb up the hill, Vang Vieng, Laos

Happy enjoying the view from Phra Poak, Vang Vieng

Worth the hard climb to the top!

Another day was spent at the much more touristy Tam Chang caves, the gigantic complex complete with coloured lights and signs, concrete steps and a path leading through to multiple caverns of varying sizes. Down at the base, the mostly Chinese tourists enjoyed the blue lake, splashing around with life jackets and jumping off diving towers and a zip line into the water. Sal had a bit of a swim with the fish in the clear blue pool, and it was all quite entertaining (for a while).

Freaky lighting in Tham Chang cave, Vang Vieng

Small shrine, Tham Chang cave, Vang Vieng

Tunnels connecting caverns, Tham Chang cave, Vang Vieng

Blue water of the pool at the base of Tham Chang, Vang Vieng

In town, thousands of tourists participated in a plethora of activities. From balloon rides to 4WD buggys, motorised paragliders, boat trips and kayaks, there were an insane amount of people partaking in the fun. We joined in at sunsets at various scenic bars to view the dusk spectacle in the sky with a Beer Lao.

4WD buggys were extremely popular whizzing around the streets of Vang Vieng

Rooftop bar at sunset, Vang Vieng, Laos

Views and brews, Vang Vieng, Laos

After some time, we craved some travel in more authentic areas, and set out on an arduous journey to Phonsavan. The story continues, for now, thanks for reading!

So long for now, see you in the next destination!

.....we continue our travels in far flung Phonsavan where we visit the mysterious Plain of Jars....

SPOMENIK HUNTING IN SERBIA - Šumadija, Central Serbia

......previously our "summer beach holiday" in Herceg Novi, Montenegro......

There's a website Sal's become somewhat obsessed with ever since we started to travel in the Balkans. It's called Spomenik Database, and seems to be the work of one dedicated individual to research and record as many of the spomeniks in former Yugoslavian countries as humanly possible in one lifetime. What is a spomenik, you may ask?

Magnificent Kosmaj spomenik, Šumadija, Serbia

The word "spomenik" is Serbian-Croat for monument, and most were built during the time of Tito's Yugoslavia between the 1950s and the 1990s. Usually they remember a significant point during World War II, either an atrocity committed by the Axis occupiers or an act of fighting back by Tito's Partisan Army. The construction of such important memorials served to help a new generation remember the struggle that occurred during WWII and create an optimism about the future. The spomenik database includes many retro photos from the time of building and heyday of visitors, which is an amazing look back into recent history. Found all over Croatia, Slovenia, Montenegro, Macedonia, and Bosnia and Hercegovina, we used our month or so in Serbia to search out some of the more interesting specimens.

We always joke that no-one can beat the Soviets when it comes to giant, extravagant war memorials- we have visited many in Central Asia and Caucus countries, and the power and drama evoked from these sites is awe-inspiring. But we have come to appreciate the more abstract Yugoslavian style, which is described as streamlined modernist, Yugoslavian Brutalist or modern futurism. Usually designs were submitted in a competition, considered by a committee and chosen for their composition and impact. Nowadays, spomeniks are of varying conditions- many are neglected and falling apart, others have been kept beautifully and respectfully.

Due to our change of plans after Sal's unexpected journey from Serbia to Melbourne and back, we were looking for something stress free that wouldn't take too much planning to "fill in" the rest of our time in the Balkans before we returned to South East Asia. It seemed the perfect time for some spomenik hunting.

As we are aware that most people will not find the subject as enthralling as Sal, we have chosen to create a more general overview of our month or so in the Šumadija region of central Serbia. This includes our adventures taking buses, hiking up hills, and visiting random towns in order to seek out some interesting monuments. The wonderful thing with spomenik hunting is that it always leads to something else. We used it as a starting point for the day, and inevitably ended up discovering some lovely woods, an old church, a cute café in a small village, or an extravagant park. And, of course, it was a brilliant way to learn more about the region's history and how lives were devastated and now remembered. 

A brief overview of our favorite spomeniks, as visited during this trip:

Kosmaj- A really atheistically pleasing one, this favorite spomenik of ours was built in the 1970s and commemorates those fighters of the Kosmaj regiment area who died during WWII. The memorial was situated upon a hill in a reasonably well used park, with walking trails through peaceful beech forests. After admiring the quite beautiful spikey-shaped erection, we continued on to have a pleasant day. Hearing some singing during our walk in the woods, we were delighted to come upon a church with a Sunday service and sat with our picnic lunch and listened to the hymns in the church grounds. An added bonus to the day was the currently free transport system around our base, Mladenovac, which afforded us a complimentary day trip.

Looking up at Kosmaj spomenik, Šumadija, Serbia

Such a cute shape! Kosmaj spomenik, Šumadija, Serbia

Musical church in the grounds of Kosmaj spomenik, Šumadija

Some of the gorgeous forests around Kosmaj, Šumadija

Slobodište Memorial Complex in Kruševac- On the edge of Kruševac, this park featured an outdoor walk-through installation of various stone spomeniks designed around grassy mounds and slopes to take the visitor on a journey through the site of a terrible tragedy. Between 1941 and 1944, Kruševac was occupied and a camp was established by the Nazis to hold hundreds of citizens, mostly civilians. These people were tortured and killed, often in retaliation against Partisan rebel fighter's attacks on the enemy. This culminated in mass executions, and on the worst day in 1943, 575 innocent civilians were killed, including Roma people and the elderly. The spomenik area was designed by Bogdan Bogdanović (of the incredible Mostar Partisan Memorial Cemetery fame) and built between 1960 and 1965. Luckily, the Yugoslavian War did not greatly effect this area, and the shrines are very well preserved. 

Walking between commemorative stones, Kruševac, Serbia

Giant circle at the entrance of Slobodište Park, Kruševac, Serbia

We were particularly moved by the research and educational center, which was built some years later, and serves as a harsh and sad reminder of what people can inflict on each other during times of war. The fact that this building lay open with no one supervising, and had not been vandalized or trashed as would have happened in certain other countries, is perhaps a testament to the respect Serbs have for their history. 

Kruševac locals killed during World War II

As well as remembering the tragedy, the site boasted superb parkland, complete with squirrels running amok, as well as a spot randomly featuring mini churches of Serbia.

One of a series of miniature churches, Kruševac, Serbia

Šumarice Memorial Park in Kragujevac- We were surprised at the huge scope of this landscaped park, on the edge of town. About 340 hectares in total, the design idea was that the park as a whole was to be the memorial, rather than just the spomeniks themselves. The entire area was chock full of history, and we spent an entire morning exploring. The main monument called Interrupted Flight was built in 1963 to commemorate another shocking number of civilians massacred here during World War II. Enraged by the killings of German soldiers by Tito's partisans, the Nazis carried out mass murders of around 2,300 innocent people during this time, including up to 300 children and their teachers. Faces faintly seen on the sides of the monolith represented the school children. We were glad to see that the park and spomeniks were in excellent condition, a respected and honored site, with many commemorative events having been held there over the years. As well as Interrupted Flight there were many other sculptures scattered around the park, remembering so many tragic incidents. 

The Interrupted Flight monument, Šumarice Memorial Park, Kragujevac, Serbia

Faces in the rock representing those lives lost, Šumarice Memorial Park, Kragujevac

Beautiful setting, The Interrupted Flight monument, Šumarice Memorial Park

Another monument representing locals who died from surrounding villages, Šumarice

The setting became almost rural as we walked further away from the center, and we discovered forests, fields of flowers (complete with a deer and tortoise sightings) and eventually a reservoir with fisherman and sun bathers. 

Tortoise nearly hiding, Šumarice Memorial Park

Walking in the lovely nature reserve, Šumarice

Mausoleum of Struggle and Victory in Čačak- Another Bogdan Bogdanović creation, this megaron was built between 1976 and 1980, and commemorates the deaths of Partisan fighters during the liberation of Čačak from Nazis in World War II. There was a great deal of scandal around the decision to choose the rather famous Bogdanović's design over a local architect's, with accusations of corruption and the decision favoring Belgrade elites over local artists. A group of international students filming at the monument during our visit gave us a quick rundown of what they had learnt from locals, whose opinions about the memorial structure apparently varied widely. Although massive and creating a feeling of power, the spomenik was quite graffitied and uncared for, and failed to give us any feeling of emotion as some of the other spomeniks had. 

Showing the scale of enormous Čačak Mausoleum, Serbia

Every post was different, interior, Čačak Mausoleum, Serbia

Mausoleum at Čačak, Šumadija, Serbia

Kadinjača Memorial Complex- By far the grandest spomenik complex we visited on this trip, this series of huge white monoliths commemorated the lead up to and the battle against German forces during the Battle of Kadinjača in 1941. Immediately apparent from the moment we got off the bus at the entrance was the excellent condition this place was in comparative to many other spomenik sites we had visited. Although mid-morning on a weekday, there were several other visitors, and maintenance men were working on improvements. The setting high on a hillside overlooking the mountains outside Užice was breathtaking, and the giant geometric shapes, some incorporating faint faces, were photogenic against the green backdrop of small farms growing raspberries. Built very early on in 1952 and at great expense, the site was added to over the years. After admiring the spectacle, we walked down to the museum, an extensive and grim look at not only the World War II fighting, but also the suffering throughout the NATO bombings. We were almost glad there was no information in English- the photos were enough to convey the adversity and pain.

Impressive structure symbolizing a bullet hole, Kadinjača

Part of the vast complex at Kadinjača, Šumadija, Serbia

Amazing shapes and design at the Kadinjača complex, Šumadija, Serbia

Another day saw us taking a bus an hour from town into the green countryside in search of what looked like a less grand spomenik in the photos we had seen. After arriving in the tiny village and strolling about for sometime, we couldn't find the memorial, locals not seeming to have a clue what we were on about. As per the pattern that had emerged, we were amused and happy the spomenik hunting had led us to this random rural setting, and we were more than satisfied to spend the afternoon wandering around the village, seeing the biggest plums ever in an orchard and savoring a sausage sandwich in the friendly wee local café!

A characterful house in the random Šumadija village we ended up in

Biggest plums we had ever seen, random village, Šumadija, Serbia

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The towns we based ourselves in- Kragujevac, Čačak and particularly Kruševac and Užice, were such a pleasure to hang out in after our day trips. We wandered around in a happy heat haze, sometimes dodging summer showers, and doing our best to rise early to experience cooler temperatures. The usual Balkan town attractions of lovely, shady parks and forest walks, quaint churches, stately public squares and umbrellaed cafes kept us more than entertained. We headed to as many early morning flea markets (buvljak) as we could find and sought out pools and river beaches where we could to cool down during the hot summer weather.

Wall art, Čačak, Serbia

Church in a graveyard, Kruševac, Serbia

Inside Kruševac church, Serbia

Prince Lazar in a Kruševac park, Serbia

Cutie squirrel spotted in a tree, Kruševac, Serbia

Our favourite town, Užice, Serbia

Gotta love the sentiment, Užice, Serbia

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Our other endeavor during our time in the Šumadija area of Serbia was visiting spa towns. Having absolutely loved Niška Banja when we visited last year, we were keen to see if other spa towns were quite as enjoyable. Similar to the sanatorium system in former Soviet countries, socialist Yugoslavia also had a scheme entitling people to medical treatment and a rest at various spa towns around the country. Wonderfully, the elderly of Serbia today are still given access to free treatments in these places. 

Vrnjačka Banja was quite a bit grander than we had expected. The town focused around a central canal, which was lined with a boulevard of majestic old trees. Numerous medical facilities had been established over the years upon the various mineral springs, all with different healing benefits. The most ancient of these springs were discovered during Roman times, but most were developed from the late 1800s through to the 1930s. During this time Vrnjačka Banja became an enormously popular place for the sick to come to heal and recover in hot mineral spas. It was also quite the fashionable place to be, with many cafes, hotels and luxury villas being built. Back then the town boasted many facilities to cater for the thousands of visitors, including a railway station and a power plant, and hosted splendid concerts and events. A kind of renaissance occurred during Yugoslavian times between the 1950s and 1980s, when facilities became state owned, and again Vrnjačka Banja became popular for treatments. This was when most of the current retro-style spa hotels were founded. Nowadays, they create something of a time warp, as many haven't been modernized since those heydays. People relaxed in elaborate parks under trees staying out of the heat, and the boulevards were packed with folk in cafes and restaurants. There was a positive buzz around Vrnjačka Banja, and it was terrific to see that the once glorious spa town was still popular. 

Chair in doorway, Vrnjačka Banja, Serbia

Picturesque bridge across near empty canal, Vrnjačka Banja, Serbia

Cute little gallery, Vrnjačka Banja, Serbia

Look out point, Vrnjačka Banja, Serbia

Resting on a walk, Vrnjačka Banja, Serbia

Retro aspects of Vrnjačka Banja, Serbia

Mataruška Banja, the second spa town we visited was a complete contrast to Vrnjačka Banja. A very small and quiet village, most of the "action" was focused around the Ibar River and the adjoining park. Several large old buildings stood amongst the trees, mostly abandoned- what we imagined may have once been grand villas, or treatment centers. Things are very quiet these days, seemingly only a few clinics left, and a very sparse and mostly elderly population. We were fortunate to stay in a wonderful wee family-run apartment in the top of a wooden house in the middle of the park. The absence of traffic was heaven! Most of our peaceful days were filled with gentle walks along the river, watching fishermen and sipping coffees in the river café. 

Statue in Mataruška Banja park, Serbia

Abandoned building Mataruška Banja, Serbia

Old style mansion, Mataruška Banja park, Serbia

Richard- urban explorer, Mataruška Banja, Serbia

Many old buildings damaged and unused, Mataruška Banja, Serbia

Our cute wooden room at the top, Mataruška Banja, Serbia

Then there was the one ridiculously arduous walk we mistakenly undertook..... Not factoring the steep incline into our energy calculations, we ended up spending most of the day slogging up and down the precariously precipitous slope. The view at the top was truly worth it, but our feet and legs didn't thank us in the following days. 

Forest around Mataruška Banja, Serbia

We actually had some signs to help us to the top, Mataruška Banja

Getting there!

Yay! Made it to the top! Mataruška Banja, Serbia

Knackered but happy, Mataruška Banja, Serbia

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We tried to take as many trains as possible during our journey, but for many places there weren't any rail options, or the timings didn't work for us, and we had to resort to buses. We loved the train trips the most, and although the summer was hot and dry, the scenery of masses of sunflowers with their heads raised towards the light and rustic farmhouses was delightful. Occasionally in the gently rolling green hills and small fields with haystacks, eagle-eyed Rich would spot a deer, fox or pheasant. Although sad to see, the decrepit little train stations along the way were quite charming. Mostly, the trains were on time and in good condition, and conductors always friendly. 

Small train station, rural Serbia

This bus company name made us laugh!

Food is such a highlight travelling in Serbia, and the Balkans in general. We feel quite indulgent sometimes, with such a choice of farm fresh produce and dairy products, and mouth watering BBQ meats. Markets overflowed with summer fruits- we fully made the most of the blackberries, raspberries and juicy peaches while they were in season. This trip we discovered pečenje style of meat cooking, a specialty of the Šumadija region. A whole pig (or lamb) cooked on a spit, the meat is prepared simply, but is excellent quality, and melt in the mouth unreal. Ordered by the weight and preferred pig part, we were in heaven scoffing this feast, especially combined with some cabbage salad and a glass of local wine. A domaća kafa (domestic coffee) and a plum rakia became a good excuse for a break whilst exploring towns, and a fantastic way to sit quietly and observe local life going on around us. As extravagant as our goodies apparently seemed, because everything is produced locally, and in season, we were paying peanuts for what would be an expensive gourmet meal elsewhere.

A Serbian meat feast, Vrnjačka Banja, Serbia

BBQ on the go, Kraljevo flea market

Drinks at a simple Serbian cafe

Pečenje style meat, Vrnjačka Banja

Big breaky, Kruševac

As we head back to South East Asia, we may not report back with a blog post for some time, as we're pretty sure by now people know what we do most years in Penang and Koh Fruitopia- we have written about it enough times! So, see you in a few months, and much love to everyone over the Christmas period (and at all other times!).

.......several months later, the next blog post coming from rustic Laos.......