.............Gorkha, and our arrival in Pokhara....
Most days in Pokhara our time was spent exploring the town and surrounds on an almost endless amount of day trip walking options. To balance all this exercise and fresh air, we made sure there was an equal amount of chilling out, eating great food, sitting in the sun on our rooftop playing cards, and just enjoying the glorious warm weather.
The town receives the majority of visitors to Nepal, and during our month stay into February, there was a notable rise in tourist levels around the place. We hate to think what's it like in the high season!
Phewa Lake was the focus in Pokhara, and most days we walked along at least some part of it. The Lakeside area was very much geared up for tourists, with hundreds of souvenir shops, restaurants and hotels. Since we were last here (20 years ago!), a pleasant, simple lakeside pedestrian path had been built, and it was mostly quiet and relaxed there. In the evenings, a few food stalls set up selling momos and sekuwa (meat on a stick).
It is possible to walk around the entire lake in a day, but we instead walked various parts on different days (it is huge at 4.43km/sq, but still only the second largest in Nepal). We did make it around to the paragliding landing point, where we watched the hundreds of tourists (mainly Chinese when we visited) landing in a production line. At AU$100 a pop, there is some big money being made there.
* An interesting side note- the locals here involved in the tourist industry almost all speak Mandarin to cater for the huge numbers of Chinese tourists who make it here, especially during Chinese New Year. It's quite amazing to listen to them! A group of little local school kids even yelled out to us "Ni hao!", Chinese for hello. Maybe they thought that was how to address all foreign people!
A bus to the north side of the lake proved it wasn't all tourist central in Pokhara. Pame and Ghaticchina villages were only about one hour away from the Lakeside area, but the minute we stepped off the bus people were friendly and welcoming. The contrast to Pokhara town was lovely and we enjoyed a wander around the area.
One of the best days was the walk up to the Japanese Peace Pagoda. It's a classic Pokhara walk, but we didn't see any other tourists on the way up or down, and only a few at the top. We'd picked the right morning, and were rewarded with possibly the best mountain views we've ever had, with stunning clear views of the Himalayas disappearing for miles in both directions. We were extremely pleased to see the super clean toilets, as our last visit to a Japanese Peace Pagoda (in Darjeeling), was memorable mainly for the state of the revolting toilets!! We felt so happy sitting with the warm morning sun on our backs watching the changing light on the mountains.
Another clear morning we spent walking around the southern part of the lake known as Damside, with more gorgeous beauty from the mountains, and once again, no crowds- only the early morning local exercisers. We ended up at Devi's Falls, one of a number of dubiously recommended local sights. Most of the natural attractions within the town limits are spoiled by rubbish including the Seti River Gorge, and pretty much any park or waterway.
We enjoyed the first part of the walk so much, we regularly strolled down there at day break on clear mornings to watch the mountains appear.
We visited a couple of local Tibetan communities, and were slightly disappointed to discover no celebrations were held in public during their new year period. In fact, there was less going on than usual because of the holiday, with all the stalls and shops shut! We were, however, given a deeper insight into their struggles when we visited an exhibition of the history of Tibetan refugees in Nepal. The photos and reading about their journey to Nepal in the early 1960's were interesting, as were their views on the Chinese government.
The old part of Pokhara town was predictably small and low key, but the few tiny buildings left from long ago were very sweet, and all still in use as everyday shops. The nicest thing was the ornate wooden balconies. Our first walk in that area was cut short, as the temperature suddenly dropped, sleet started to fall and we could see snow accumulating on the mountains.
We used the local buses a lot, and got to know a few of the convoluted routes. They were very cheap, at about 20 rupees/AU$0.24 a trip, and a good way to wizz by the busy streets of the town proper. But mostly we walked........and walked.
In amongst the vegan/raw food/organic options around town, we found a few favourite restaurants, mostly away from the expensive lake side area, and enjoyed a wide range of food. We were shocked a the number of restaurants selling (and presumably the number of customers buying) fresh fish from the lake. From what we'd seen on our walks, the lake is full of rubbish in parts and highly polluted. The thought of eating anything contaminated with those waters was revolting.
We kept the beer to a minimum, mainly because of the high cost (300 rup/AU$3.70 for the cheapest option), although Rich did have to taste a few different brands a couple of times, just to check what they were like! We couldn't work out if liquor was extremely popular with the Nepalese, or there was just a huge advertising campaign trying to promote drinking. Everywhere we travelled the overwhelming advertisement signage was for some kind of alcoholic drink, and every second establishment seemed to be a grog shop.
The famous Nepalese bakeries showed impressive looking sweet treats in their display cases, but we were disappointed with the stale or wet tasting cakes we tried. An interesting note about restaurants in Nepal- many don't have sinks in which to wash ones hands before eating. We sorely missed this when eating after walking around the dusty towns.
Satisfied the weather had warmed up enough for us to move on, we were looking forward to the next stage of our trip around Nepal.
Most days in Pokhara our time was spent exploring the town and surrounds on an almost endless amount of day trip walking options. To balance all this exercise and fresh air, we made sure there was an equal amount of chilling out, eating great food, sitting in the sun on our rooftop playing cards, and just enjoying the glorious warm weather.
 |
| Jaw-dropping beauty, Pokhara view |
The town receives the majority of visitors to Nepal, and during our month stay into February, there was a notable rise in tourist levels around the place. We hate to think what's it like in the high season!
Phewa Lake was the focus in Pokhara, and most days we walked along at least some part of it. The Lakeside area was very much geared up for tourists, with hundreds of souvenir shops, restaurants and hotels. Since we were last here (20 years ago!), a pleasant, simple lakeside pedestrian path had been built, and it was mostly quiet and relaxed there. In the evenings, a few food stalls set up selling momos and sekuwa (meat on a stick).
 |
| Stunning morning light, Phewa Lake, Pokhara |
 |
| A completely different part of Phewa Lake, Pokhara |
 |
| Typical way of transporting goods, Pokhara |
 |
| Taking breakfast, Lakeside, Pokhara |
It is possible to walk around the entire lake in a day, but we instead walked various parts on different days (it is huge at 4.43km/sq, but still only the second largest in Nepal). We did make it around to the paragliding landing point, where we watched the hundreds of tourists (mainly Chinese when we visited) landing in a production line. At AU$100 a pop, there is some big money being made there.
 |
| Hundreds of paragliders, Pokhara |
* An interesting side note- the locals here involved in the tourist industry almost all speak Mandarin to cater for the huge numbers of Chinese tourists who make it here, especially during Chinese New Year. It's quite amazing to listen to them! A group of little local school kids even yelled out to us "Ni hao!", Chinese for hello. Maybe they thought that was how to address all foreign people!
 |
| Village house, Ghaticchina |
 |
| Pame village center |
 |
| Scenery around Ghaticchina |
 |
| Village lady and her buffalo, Ghaticchina |
 |
| Pame house |
 |
| Curly horned buffalo |
One of the best days was the walk up to the Japanese Peace Pagoda. It's a classic Pokhara walk, but we didn't see any other tourists on the way up or down, and only a few at the top. We'd picked the right morning, and were rewarded with possibly the best mountain views we've ever had, with stunning clear views of the Himalayas disappearing for miles in both directions. We were extremely pleased to see the super clean toilets, as our last visit to a Japanese Peace Pagoda (in Darjeeling), was memorable mainly for the state of the revolting toilets!! We felt so happy sitting with the warm morning sun on our backs watching the changing light on the mountains.
 |
| Early morning mist walking up to the Japanese Peace Pagoda, Pokhara |
 |
| Beautiful fence post, mountainside |
 |
| The views! Japanese Peace Pagoda, Pokhara |
 |
| Looking down at Phewa Lake, Japanese Peace Pagoda, Pokhara |
 |
| So happy, Japanese Peace Pagoda, Pokhara |
Another clear morning we spent walking around the southern part of the lake known as Damside, with more gorgeous beauty from the mountains, and once again, no crowds- only the early morning local exercisers. We ended up at Devi's Falls, one of a number of dubiously recommended local sights. Most of the natural attractions within the town limits are spoiled by rubbish including the Seti River Gorge, and pretty much any park or waterway.
 |
| We came across these ladies at Devi's Falls, in magnificent tartan |
We enjoyed the first part of the walk so much, we regularly strolled down there at day break on clear mornings to watch the mountains appear.
 |
| The different moods of the Himalayas |
 |
| Lined up lingams, Lakeside temple |
 |
| Early morning puja, Lakeside temple |
We visited a couple of local Tibetan communities, and were slightly disappointed to discover no celebrations were held in public during their new year period. In fact, there was less going on than usual because of the holiday, with all the stalls and shops shut! We were, however, given a deeper insight into their struggles when we visited an exhibition of the history of Tibetan refugees in Nepal. The photos and reading about their journey to Nepal in the early 1960's were interesting, as were their views on the Chinese government.
The old part of Pokhara town was predictably small and low key, but the few tiny buildings left from long ago were very sweet, and all still in use as everyday shops. The nicest thing was the ornate wooden balconies. Our first walk in that area was cut short, as the temperature suddenly dropped, sleet started to fall and we could see snow accumulating on the mountains.
 |
| Amazingly, a bank! Pokhara town |
 |
| Banksy in Pokhara?! |
 |
| Colourful Pokhara lady |
 |
| Dressed up for a wedding, Pokhara town |
 |
| Pretty in pink, Pokhara town |
 |
| Bridge over Seti River, Pokhara |
We used the local buses a lot, and got to know a few of the convoluted routes. They were very cheap, at about 20 rupees/AU$0.24 a trip, and a good way to wizz by the busy streets of the town proper. But mostly we walked........and walked.
In amongst the vegan/raw food/organic options around town, we found a few favourite restaurants, mostly away from the expensive lake side area, and enjoyed a wide range of food. We were shocked a the number of restaurants selling (and presumably the number of customers buying) fresh fish from the lake. From what we'd seen on our walks, the lake is full of rubbish in parts and highly polluted. The thought of eating anything contaminated with those waters was revolting.
We kept the beer to a minimum, mainly because of the high cost (300 rup/AU$3.70 for the cheapest option), although Rich did have to taste a few different brands a couple of times, just to check what they were like! We couldn't work out if liquor was extremely popular with the Nepalese, or there was just a huge advertising campaign trying to promote drinking. Everywhere we travelled the overwhelming advertisement signage was for some kind of alcoholic drink, and every second establishment seemed to be a grog shop.
 |
| Welcoming menu, Pokhara |
 |
| Testing the Nepalese beer, Pokhara |
The famous Nepalese bakeries showed impressive looking sweet treats in their display cases, but we were disappointed with the stale or wet tasting cakes we tried. An interesting note about restaurants in Nepal- many don't have sinks in which to wash ones hands before eating. We sorely missed this when eating after walking around the dusty towns.
Satisfied the weather had warmed up enough for us to move on, we were looking forward to the next stage of our trip around Nepal.
 |
| Couldn't resist a couple more gorgeous views to finish off! |
The moment captured well with 'early morning puja', and nice perspectives too, like vivid reflections off the lake, and monochromes give a dreamy sense of place. A little sad to read the Tibetan story that was nicely observed from a distance.
ReplyDeleteA friendly reserved sense pervades this place, as people and objects animate a spirit of inquisitive charm.
ReplyDelete