.....we were previously in the slightly hectic Panglao area of Bohol, The Philippines......
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| Stunning beach at Anda, Bohol |
Continuing our Bohol adventure, we took our first jeepney of the trip back to the organized Tagbilaran bus terminal, where we easily found the big bus departing for Anda. This journey was super sweaty and squishy, thanks to the packed bus and the amount of passengers, but mostly because the miniscule seat size. Thankfully, as we ventured further along the coast, people got off and we could spread out more. The bus whizzed past seaside towns with names such as Albuquerque and Garcia Hernandez, and we can say we have officially now been to Trinidad! Finally, as the roads and villages became smaller, and the jungle met the beach, we arrived in tiny Anda. In order to have the bus stop in The Philippines, one has to shout at the top of one's voice "STOP"! This took some getting used to!
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| Jeepney from Panglao to Tagbilaran, Bohol |
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| Trinidad village hall!! |
We found Anda to be a wonderfully sleepy beach town, pretty much just one main drag leading to a market, and dirt tracks leading off to the beach. It had a feeling of the end of the line, tucked away in the far southeast bulb of Bohol. Anda's residents had a laid back air about them, even the dogs were super chill. We enjoyed the constant friendly greetings everywhere that we had experienced in the interior of Bohol. When we ventured further than the central part of Anda, there were stares and giggles at the very sight of us. Homes in peaceful lanes were noticeably neat and there seemed to be an amount of civic pride. Cute little gardens, tidy lawns and limited rubbish about gave the village a well kept air. The quiet central market had a few stalls selling limited fruit and vegies, stall holders languishing in the heat of the day. Things livened up at around 4.30pm, when the village came alive. People bustled around the streets, chatting outside sari sari (variety) shops, traffic increased at the market and locals wandered down to the sea to cool off.
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| Downtown Anda, Bohol |
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| Resting in the heat, Anda main street, Bohol |
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| Sleepy Anda during the day, Bohol |
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| Stall at Anda market, Bohol |
We felt slightly better off for food, ironically, considering the size of the place. A fantastic supermarket with more variety than we had seen before supplied our breakfast needs, and a few simple shacks offered palatable food for later in the day. The excellent accommodation we had found by a fluke had a well equipped outdoor, shared kitchen, so we were able to cook our oats for breakfast and make snacks. It also boasted a clean, cool and spacious room, and a swimming pool, which was amazing in the afternoons after a day out in the extreme heat.
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| Cute little restaurant in Anda, Bohol |
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| Had to try the yummy local prawns, Anda beach |
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| Not sure what that was all about...... |
And then there were the beaches. People rave about certain beaches in South East Asia. It's probably very annoying for readers, but I'm afraid it has to be said. We have seen so many beautiful tropical beaches, we do have high standards and become somewhat blasé. But Anda's famous beaches certainly held their own in the comparison of other tropical paradises in the region. A mixture of small bays and longer stretches, Anda had a long coastline with classic white powdery sand and clear water- certainly the best we have seen on this trip. The fact that development along the coast was limited, with mainly smaller, low key resorts kept a rustic feeling. We were happy to see mostly Filipinos enjoying the seaside, not just foreign tourists- this isn't normal in most other South East Asian countries.
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| Bangka boat on Anda beach, Bohol |
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| Lonely coconut, Anda beach, Bohol |
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| Processing sea urchins on the beach, Anda, Bohol |
A day trip to explore further afield showed us a stunning region with many varying vistas- each more spectacular than the first. Driving along the coast, mangrove villages with little shacks built down onto the water, small lagoons and fish farms had us enchanted. Modest village shacks with roosters in the yard, neat flower and spring onion boxes in the gardens, and small chapels and community halls lined the road. When we rode the motorbike up high above the sea, we discovered round, green, rolling hills spreading out into the distance inland. The scenery felt completely different, almost European, complete with cows. We pondered, that in another country, we would love to hike in these hills (too bloody humid here!).
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| Small boats in a mangrove area, around Anda, Bohol |
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| Mirror image, around Anda, Bohol |
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Bike across a causeway, around Anda, Bohol
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| The "tracks" we were following through the countryside, around Anda, Bohol |
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| Excited at the viewpoint, around Anda, Bohol |
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| Green rolling hills, around Anda, Bohol |
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Cows on the hills, around Anda, Bohol
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The humidity at this time of year in the coastal parts of Bohol was insane, and we struggled walking anywhere too far. Our rooms all came with AC which we gladly turned on in the heat of the day. But we were happy that there was usually an additional fan, which we often preferred to use at night. Getting to the further away beaches and hinterland had to be done in a tricycle or hiring a motorbike.
Overall, Anda was a restoring place, and we really loved it. It would a place we could return to and stay longer, if we needed to. Many accommodation options, decent food, friendly locals, gorgeous beaches and a relaxed, village feel- what's not to like? It was a perfect final week to (nearly) bring to a close our month's stay in Bohol.
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The end of the day, Anda beach, Bohol
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| Local girl, Anda, Bohol |
Our final few days in The Philippines were spent slowly working our way back to Cebu for our flight. Amid a supposed State of Emergency due to a fuel shortage, and rumors of cancellations of transport, we did not want to become caught on Bohol. We needn't have worried- buses and ferries appeared to all be working on time. The port of Ubay was a refreshingly untouristy and bustling little town, and the fantastic local market with freshly caught seafood and the biggest range of produce we had yet to see kept us busy. We even had the best meal of Filipino food in our entire stay at a very modest street stall. A lovely woman with a few pots cooked by her aunt explained what everything was. We chose a selection of dishes, going back for seconds, it was so good.
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Tricycle to Ubay port, Bohol, The Philippines
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| Choko to Aussies, sayote to Filipinos, very popular vegetable here |
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| Smelly market goods, Ubay, Bohol |
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| Delish eggplant dish, Ubay, Bohol |
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| Ferry taking us from Ubay in northern Bohol, back to Cebu city |
A night in Cebu city, with all day spent at the nearby mega mall shopping for all our last minute needs filled the final day, and suddenly it was all over. We both agreed we had loved this trip so much, and are already looking at places to visit in the country next time.
We were on Siquihor, which is south of Bohol, also worth a visit. Happy you are having fun. Mandy xxx
ReplyDeleteThere are various markers of a place, and a notable ostensible depiction is how secular, or even religious icons intwine with the commercial agrarian interests. The example being the icon may pay homage to the produce as a wealth status marker of business leadership, such as a large fruit on the outskirts of the township, like a super huge yellow banana or red crab, which is a contrast with this region of South East Asia depicting homage as more for the poor workers seeking comfort from laborious toil on the plantation in a humid hot environment, signified as a tiny chapel with a sacred icon set within the banana plantation, and coconut palms.
ReplyDeleteTotally amazing beach scenes of the wet tropical zone where trudging around in the daylight, unless under rainforest canopy with small creeks to dip into every hour, is exhausting, and so nocturnal hiking becomes a viable alternative with high lumen headlamps or moon light for extended vision.
ReplyDeleteThere could be a long form essay dedicated to the modern history of 'how to stop a rickety buses along routes between small towns in Asia', where for example contra to the method deployed in this post, the method for example in parts of India is to somehow get to the front of the bus which requires a complex set of bodily athletic feats like holding any language whilst griping the rings on the roof and manoeuvre between items strewn along the floor. That's just stage one of the tiny exit rickety bus trip!
ReplyDeleteSlow travel is such a dignified expedition inspired serious leisure activity of moving purposefully through a geographic and cultural region. Simple necessities like a basic fan and hut are the luxuries of life for the traveller who navigates, as in this case the humid tropical zone. There is another such activity going on called the "sun trip" from France through parts of Africa with solar powered bikes or trikes. The solar panel can be rigged up so to both collect power and give shade for the slow travel style. In both cases the form of slow travel is a truth to materials of travel, be it by public transport and foot, or by sun power and peddle exertion to supplement motion. Both methodologies of travel share a profound sense of environmental emersion and interaction with the people of the place (vendors and the curious) giving this mode of intentional tourism a comparative advantage modes of conventional tourism.
ReplyDelete