MYSTERIOUS GIANT JARS AND STUCK TRUCKS - Phonsavan, Laos

......our first blog post from this trip to Laos, visiting the capital, Vientiane, and beautiful Vang Vieng.........

Some of the lovely jars, Plain of Jars, Phonsavan, Laos

Leaving Vang Vieng and heading north-east to Phonsavan we were feeling somewhat positive. The seats in the small bus were surprisingly comfortable, and it was half empty- one other adventurous traveller joining us and a few locals for the trip. We'd been told the journey would take five hours, we thought that seemed bearable. In the end it would be more than nine hours from start to finish, of agonizing being thrown around roughly on atrociously twisty and rutted roads. The speed was excruciatingly slow and bumpy due to huge amount of deep potholes and dreadfully rough and neglected surfaces. We could see picturesque small mountain ranges through the dust and in the distance the villages and fields looked lovely and green. Along the road, the rustic houses were completely covered with a thick dust from the trucks and other traffic continuously passing through. We were obviously relieved when we finally arrived in Phonsavan, and were happy that we didn't ache as much as we thought we might!

We found a cheap room with everything we needed, and after a quick look around the town as darkness fell, we did wonder what we had got ourselves in for! A good night's sleep saw us ready to see what Phonsavan had to offer the following day.

Our strange hotel foyer, Phonsavan, Laos

We were in town to see the world famous Plain of Jars, a place that had been on our “to see” list a REALLY long time. Trying to find out the best way to see the multiple jar sites- by bicycle, motorbike or taxi, we ended up at lovely Lan's bike shop. He had lived and worked in Australia for some years, and had subsequently returned home with all his money and set himself up a wee business renting out motorbikes. Riding around Phonsavan was not as pleasant as we had hoped, due to the terrible roads. Rich was tense, concentrating on the road and trying manoeuvre to avoid potholes and deal with oncoming vehicles creating huge clouds of dust in his face. Sal was hanging on and trying not to fall off the back with all the movement. Nonetheless, it let us explore all the main jar sites, some out of the way small villages, and some lovely natural areas. We certainly wouldn't have seen any of it without the motorbike.

Short video from the back of a motorbike, Phonsavan, Laos:

The area around Phonsavan was much more appealing once we left the main road. Small, mostly Hmong villages, contained simple wooden houses with bamboo fences, dirty little kids playing and women with babies in papooses sewing out the front or tending to small gardens. Chickens roamed and cows grazed in small fields by reservoirs, and the scenic backdrop of large green hills in the distance was attractive. We visited in the dry season, hence all the dust, and most of the fields were brown. The beauty and green colour must be blindingly gorgeous during the wet season, but we were very happy not to have to deal with what must be a nightmare of mud on the unsealed roads. We noticed an interesting mix of eucalyptus, pine and palm trees, along with many other local varieties of trees.

Little bridge over a dry river to a village, around Phonsavan, Laos

Typical scenery, with dry rice fields, around Phonsavan, Laos

Not at all shy!

The three main sites for the jars were unique and exceptional, and all contrasted in character. They seemed a world away from the dust and traffic in the town. Arriving first at Site 2, we found a deserted and forested "fairy grove" type area on a small hill with large shady fig trees, some growing within the pots. It was quite magical and had a special vibe, and we enjoyed the peace alone. There we dozens of jars of varying sizes, some fallen on their sides, some leaning over, some partially destroyed.

Site 2 of Plain of Jars, gorgeous shady fig trees

An interesting carved lid, perhaps?

Site 3 was equally quiet, the guy manning the cute little ticket shack was asleep in the heat of the day as we arrived. A charming walk in the rice paddy fields, through gates and over stiles, with only the cow bells jingling, took us to another shady site where we spent some time alone taking pictures and admiring the mystery of the many jars. We appreciated the way the sites had pretty much been left alone, with only the grass being kept under control and a few dirt paths between groups. It presented the jars simply, without any additions or fuss, and felt right.

Beautiful stroll through farm to arrive at Plain of Jars site 3

Part of the way between sites, Site 3, Plain of Jars

Site 1 was a different story. We visited later in the day on a Sunday, and it was quite busy with a handful of local families. We were dismayed by the rubbish strewn around. The area was more open with less shade, much bigger and there were many more jars. Although the locals were quite noisy, we did have a lovely encounter with a family from Vientiane, who were about to travel back the twelve hours to the capital. All three sites had been cleared of UXOs (unexploded ordinances) years ago, and we felt safe to stroll around the small paths.

A more bare and open site at Site 1, Plain of Jars, Phonsavan

Friendly family visiting the jars from Vientiane

The jar sites have little signs with a tiny bit of information about the place. But because no one actually knows why the jars were created, the information can be quite confusing. One sign said no human remains have ever been found at the sites, then directly went on to proclaim they may have been burial areas. Another told a local legend of a king, celebrating a victory in battle, had them made to hold vast amounts of alcohol. Giant's cups, and water and food storage were other theories. Another local legend hypothesised that the jars were not carved out of stone, but made from an ancient form of concrete with a mixture of sand, pebbles, lime, and fired in a kiln, which we found fascinating. It's pretty clear upon visiting, that there is a spiritual element to the jar sites- the enormous amount of jars and the locations where they have been made or placed suggests something more than just a practical use. We were also surprised to read there are other jar sites in Assam and Indonesia, and when we investigated on the internet later, we found that they are curiously similar.

Ridiculously cheap ticket for The Plain of Jars- equivalent of £1.00

Riding out to random villages was hard work, but we had a bit of fun trying to follow Map.Me's tantalising markings for various sights. Landmarks such as “Mushroom house artwork”, and “Cluster bomb chicken coop” sounded fascinating, and although we never actually found any of these places, it got us out into some scenic areas.

A quiet road with rice paddies, around Phonsavan, Laos

They weren't sure about the photo!

The only real disappointment was not being able to visit the gigantic Tham Xang cave, which during the war had housed many fighters and even included a hospital. We drove for miles on rough and stony roads in the wilds, before eventually coming to a closed ticket booth (not a good sign). Pushing on, we found the parking area with an abandoned toilet, and the path fenced off with barbed wire. Having seen a sign for bomb clearing further back on the road, and a team in white with detectors in a field on the drive in, we realised this was the end of the line. We headed back out, bums and legs aching, and our clothes, bags and bodies completely covered in dust.

A rest along the road, exploring around Phonsavan, Laos

There were plenty of places along the main roads to stop for a break, small markets with local produce and basic restaurants, all looking clean and appealing. We enjoyed some delish noodle soup, which the Laotians, like the Vietnamese, also call feu.

Delish lunch of feu, around Phonsavan, Laos

Typical basic toilet, around Phonsavan, Laos

Little cute girl, around Phonsavan, Laos

Rustic scenes along the road around Phonsavan, Laos

Nights, we were quite sore from the physicality of riding the bike, and were happy to get ourselves some amazing sausage or grilled pork from the BBQ vendors in the fantastic market around the corner and munch on our balcony, watching the town quieten down for the night. 

Phonsavan town was small, with wide streets, not too much traffic or noise, and some surprisingly good accommodation and eating options for such a seemingly far flung location. The market near us was wonderful for what seemed to be exclusively local products. Because of the higher, cooler climate, such fruits as strawberries were on offer, and mushrooms were plentiful with many varieties. There were also some great eating options in the market during the day. Apart from what Rich says are the best sausages he's every eaten, we also loved the ladies with pots of different goodies to eat with rice. It was a matter of point, smile and hope for the best. We lucked out a few times, with spicy laab (minced meat packed with fresh herbs and Laos' national dish) and some kind of yummy liver dish. A stall selling “exotic meats” was a bit disturbing, with small birds including parrots and strange animals, maybe some kind of possums, laying out on display. Also on the markets were stalls selling excellent mango shakes and fresh coconut juice for next to nothing. The ladies made us very welcome, sitting us down and practising their limited English with us while we drank.

One of three war monuments in Phonsavan (Vietnamese)

Monument to Chinese killed in Vietnam War, Phonsavan

Graves on a hillside, Phonsavan

So many sausages in Phonsavan, Laos

All kinds of BBQ meat available in Phonsavan, Laos

Laab and other meat, Phonsavan market, Laos

Local toddler, Phonsavan, Laos

Most unexpected was the discovery of an excellent café on the main street run by a young family, who spoke a bit of English. The man was an absolute coffee fanatic, and we both agreed we had never had a better cafe latte outside of Australia! Next door was a lovely young girl who had started a tiny bakery with her father, and baked divine brownies twice a day that Rich became quite addicted to. So, we certainly didn't go hungry in Phonsavan!

The organisation Mines Advisory Group (MAG for short) deals with removing mines worldwide, and we visited their visitor's centre in Phonsavan for a sobering look at the historical and current situation. Laos is the world's most heavily bombed country, with two million tonnes of bombs being dropped by the Americans during the Vietnam War. Eighty million of the 270 million cluster bombs that were dropped failed to detonate on impact, and lie in or on the ground in mostly rural areas of Laos. It's unbelievable that nearly 50 years after the end of the Vietnam War, Laos is still suffering from the effects of UXOs (unexploded ordinance or bombs), with a staggering 20,000 casualties since the end of the war.

Display in the MAG exhibition in Phonsavan, Laos

We saw many of these signs on the roads 

The province in which Phonsavan is located, Xieng Khouang, is one of the most bombed in Laos, with a quarter of villages being contaminated. It's also been the site of thirty percent of UXO accidents in Laos. All the figures shown in the visitor's centre were said to have been greatly underestimated, as the data is incomplete, and the actual number of bombs around is simply unknown. Many deaths and injuries occur when people are digging in fields or unknowingly light a fire on a buried bomb, but also in the desire for a little extra money by selling the scrap metal inside the bombs.

Random bombs and equipment outside a house, Phonsavan

Restaurant incorporating bombs in their décor, Phonsavan, Laos

Most heartbreaking was reading about children who mistake a particular bomb - a small, bright yellow coloured explosive, for the same sized ball in a game they like to play. Forty percent of casualties over recent years have been children.

It is ironic that the country(s) that were responsible for bombing the crap out of thousands of innocent people are now sponsoring the organisations clearing the explosives.

Left over Russian fighter jets, Phonsavan, Laos

Leaving Phonsavan proved a bit of a headache. Our plan A was to get a visa extension and then continue north to the mountains. This proved impossible when the friendly immigration officer told us regretfully that we were too early and he couldn't extend our visa for another week and a half. We were too far from any other immigration offices to do much about that. Plan B was to bus it overland into Vietnam. This also proved not to be possible, when we realised too late that it was TET time (Vietnam's massive New Year holiday), and all government offices were closed for two weeks, so no visa applications. So, reluctantly, we bit the bullet and bought bus tickets for the long ride back to Vang Vieng, the same way we had come. Although not looking forward to the journey, we thought we would just drug up (Sal), sit back, go to sleep and go with the bumps.

Unfortunately, Laos had other plans for us.

The small bus was fairly full on the return leg, and the seats not particularity comfortable. But everyone was friendly, and things were proceeding fine until an hour and a half into what should have been a nine hour journey. We suddenly ground to a stop on the dusty road, and everyone got our, mumbling amongst themselves. Stretching into the distance ahead of us were around 30 vehicles lined up, no sign of movement, and many people loitering about. Everyone started walking to the front to see what the hold up was. Sal, nearly comatose from her drugs, stayed in the bus to sleep, and Rich came back with the news that a huge truck full of hundreds of bags of cement had skidded across the road, nearly knocking down a power pole and completely blocking the traffic. Nothing seemed to be happening, people just standing around on the road watching, chatting and smiling. Obviously, things were going to take some time to be resolved. Luckily, the morning was not too hot and we all waited patiently in the shade (not much choice). Now and again we would stroll down to see what progress had been made. This was basically nothing, until one little man started to transfer the heavy bags from the stuck truck onto another that had been brought in, all on his own, while everyone just stood around watching. This was going to take a while. Eventually, a few guys got in to help, and the job was painfully slowly completed after five and a half hours. The stuck vehicle, now considerably lighter, was pulled out of it's predicament by the second truck. Spirits rose as the two trucks drove out and made their way down the road, accompanied by cheering and honking horns. Everyone animatedly got back on the bus preparing to move off. The subsequent agonising snail-like speed of the bus due to the extremely bad surface of the road was even worse thanks to the amount of traffic that had backed up on both sides of the stuck truck. This also created incredible amounts of thick dust as vehicles tried to make up for lost time, over taking each other. We crawled around the mountain bends and jumped over bone-shaking potholes for the entire rest of the way. Finally, 14 hours after we had set out, we were dropped on the main drag of Vang Vieng, so incredibly relieved to be on our legs again and not being thrown around violently on the bus. In all our travels, the two journeys to and from Phonsavan were probably the worst roads we've ever been on, and the length of the journey only added to the torture.

Bumpy video shaking along the road between Phonsavan and Vang Vieng, Laos:

Bus crashed across the road, Phonsavan to Vang Vieng, Laos

Young girl with sibling, one of our fellow passengers

We went old school on this trip to Laos and we were happy to find we could still travel in the country without using booking apps, QR codes, electronic keys, credit cards or cashless ticketing. We simply chose where to go, bought a bus ticket on the day, arrived and wandered around until we found a cheap room. Loved it. Apart from the capital, Vientiane, which was a bit expensive, we were happy with our simple rooms elsewhere, usually coming with a comfy bed, attached bathroom with hot water, cold and boiling drinking water, and varying qualities of WIFI.

Bus trips were not a pleasure- those readers who know us know we are not a fan of road trips, much preferring trains. We realized that the roads were actually worse than on our first trip to the country 26 years ago. Back then it was dirt tracks, muddy and rough, but there was barely any traffic. The never ending stream of massive Chinese trucks have really taken a toll. Someone told us the state of the highways used to be a lot better a few years ago when they were new. But we persevered on this trip, as the focus was the far flung Plain of Jars. If we wanted to see those jars, we just had to suck it up. To be fair, the buses were fairly comfortable, it was just the journey times that were extremely long on terrible roads with ever-present thick dust and potholes.

Interior of our bus, Phonsavan to Vang Vieng

Typical long distance bus in Laos

A note about Beer Laos. It's got a great reputation amongst travellers as a fantastic tasting beer in South East Asia, but we didn't quite realise exactly quite how popular it is in Laos. It seems to be elevated to to an extremely high level. Every single grocery shop of any kind will sell at least one variety, and there's no problem ever ordering one in a restaurant or cafe. Laotians sit around drinking it all times of the day, and huge warehouses chockablock with crates of the favoured beverage are absolutely everywhere. There did seem to be a couple of other brands available, but Beer Laos is king to be sure. Since our last visit, many more varieties of the brand are available - white, dark, green, gold and IPA have been added to the good old original. Although neither of us are big beer fans these days, we did indulge in the odd tipple, especially in Vang Vieng, where the atmosphere was more lively.

A new (for us) version of Beer Laos

The classic Beer Laos

We greatly enjoyed our trip through Laos. We realised half way through, that our original travel plans to include the far north were far too ambitious due to the long and uncomfortable bus rides, but we were happy with the limited places we had seen – especially the Plain of Jars. It was a once in a lifetime visit for us, and we felt were had made the most of it.

Goodbye jars!

........next up, a relaxed trip through northern Thailand.........