Showing posts with label Ranong. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Ranong. Show all posts

Saturday, 29 January 2011

SEA GYPSIES AND FISHING- Andaman Coast, Thailand

.....coming from a tropical stay on the Perhentian Islands, Malaysia......

Our return to Thailand at the end of 2010, saw us revisiting two of our favourite places from last year.

We returned firstly to what we call Ko Fruitopia, in the south of Thailand (see Beach Bumming) for some R and R. It's very special for us to meet up with travelling friends in this place- sort of a surrogate family while we are away from our own. The island, and many others in the region, is home to the sea gypsy people, or chao lei, as they are known in Thai. Our bungalows are run by humble and beautiful sisters, and their hospitality, laughter, singing, amazing cooking, and fascinating attitude to life keep us, and many others coming back year after year.

The chao lei's origins are confused- either from Indonesia or eastern India, and after a traditionally nomadic life spent on boats, they have now been settled in Thailand. Many accept other faiths, like Buddhism and/or Islam, but continue to celebrate the lives of their ancestors. We'd love to go back for the huge festival in March, where sea gypsies from all over the Andaman coast congregate on Ko Fruitopia for a huge ancestor-worshipping party!

Deela is the island's spiritual leader and medicine woman, a role passed down to her when her uncle recently died. There's a lot on her plate, but she is strong, and dedicated to educating the children of the island, so they can lead the way in the future. She is wise and tolerant, and we can all learn a lot from her.



The sisters

Beautiful 


Our Christmas dinner was an unusual mix of Thai food and beer, and sea gypsy dancing and singing. It was very loud and colorful and everyone had a good time. Very nice, as always, to be away from the commercialism in the west during this time of year.


Dancing at Christmas

Dancing at Christmas


We spent New Year's Eve in Krabi, but it was a bit of a fizzer, with some of our party feeling sick and the New Year's carnival in town being way to loud and crowded. Richard ate some bugs, and won a packet of coco pops on one of the games, but we were in bed before midnight, and even missed the fireworks!


Choosing the perfect selection of bugs

Yum!


Another of last year's favourites, Ko Chang, off Ranong (on the Andaman Coast in the south-west of Thailand), was where we spent January 2011. It's all about the fishing here! Well, not all about the fishing...... there are a lot of the usual beachy activities, but the main reason to return was the great opportunity for Richard to fish to his heart's content- either from the beach, or on a boat with the owner of the bungalows, and several other fishing-loving blokes staying here.


The serenity

Return from day's fishing

Day's catch

Dinner

Richard's fish


Although Sally didn't dare venture out on a boat (she gets sea sick on a lilo!), we both made the most of the free fish dinners that resulted from the fishing trips.



Amazing dinner


So it IS still possible to find quiet beaches with no hassle and cheap accommodation (we payed AU$5 for a room/bungalow at both places) in Thailand, although they may have to be sought out. But overall, in South-east Asia, Thailand really wins hands down when it comes to great beaches- something we have learnt from our past travels, and our recent time in Malaysia and Bali.

Having chosen this travelling lifestyle away from our friends and family in Australia and the UK, it's really great for us to meet up with old friends (and make loads of new ones) whilst on the road, and we've taken advantage of this for the last two months in particular.



Mates on Ko Chang

Ko Chang

The gang on Ko Fruitopia


By the time January came to an end, we were raring to finish up our ridiculous amount of beach time and hit the road again for some "proper" travelling!!


Us

......onwards to Prachuap Kiri Khan, Thailand.....

Monday, 15 February 2010

BEACH BUMMING IT- Andaman Coast, Thailand



Since we last wrote, we've left Malaysia, and have been in the south of Thailand for two and a half months. The weather cleared when we crossed the border, and we've been lucky enough to have had glorious sunny weather pretty much the whole time.



Incredible sunsets, Ko Fruitopia

A relaxed Rich, Ko Fruitopia

Our wonderful host, Ko Fruitopia



We've spent most of our time on the somewhat similar islands of Ko Fruitopia (near Krabi), and Ko Chang- the small one (near Ranong). We found them both to be as yet unspoilt, with basic accommodation, good and cheap food, long staying travellers in the know and clear long beaches. We met up with old friends, and made many new ones, and generally had an amazing time swimming in warm water, relaxing in hammocks, gorging on seafood, enjoying long beach walks, fishing, sunsets, and good company.



Our hut, Ko Chang

Our beach, Ko Chang

Sunset, Ko Chang



We also visited the more touristy places of Phuket, Ko Phi Phi and Ko Lanta, and found they all have their positive sides too. We would like to revisit these places out of season, however, as the crowds were too much for us.




Day trip to Ko Phi Phi

Sal and her hammock


In between these paradises, we hung out in the pleasantly Thai towns of Hat Yai, Trang, Ranong and Krabi- always a favourite of ours.



Unique little local rickshaws, Trang

Ao Nang

Ao Nang



However, tomorrow the time has come to crank up a gear again, and get ready for Malaysia and India. We have a week or so in Kuala Lumpur and Malacca organizing our Indian visa before we fly out to Calcutta. It's been some years since we were last there, and we're so excited to be going back.



Rich and Sal