DAYS ON THE DANUBE- Novi Sad, Serbia

.....our previous blog post about our wintery and festive time in Belgrade......

Close in proximity to Belgrade, Novi Sad was also a large city (Serbia's second city, in fact) but had a completely different feel to it than the capital. The city originally grew from the giant river fortress built by the Habsburgs in the late 1600s. The House of Habsburg was a royal dynasty that, through strategic marriages, was able to spread its influence throughout Europe between the 15th and 19th centuries. The royal house was aligned with the Roman Catholic church, and as a result banned people of the Orthodox faith from living in the fortress. This led to the creation of the settlement that would become the city of Novi Sad right across the river. 

Monument on Danube River, Novi Sad, Serbia

Slobode Square, Novi Sad, Serbia

Fort overlooking Danube, Novi Sad, Serbia

During the 1800s, Novi Sad was under Austro-Hungarian rule, and the majority of the dominant designs of the town's central buildings reflected that. The pastel colours were particularly eye-catching, and gave a light and cheery feeling to the place, even on cold days. Small decorated and covered alleyways lead off wide boulevards, all chock-a-block with cafes, bars and eateries. On the days when the sun came out the streets and cafes were busy as people made the most of the fine weather. A bizarre find was the central H&M clothing store, housed in an incredibly decorated heritage building, with stunning period features along side modern clothes racks.

Cute alleyway, Novi Sad, Serbia

Stately statue with cafe boulevard behind, Novi Sad, Serbia

Ballet class in progress, Novi Sad, Serbia

An especially opulent frontage, Novi Sad, Serbia

Splendid window, Novi Sad, Serbia

Messy back streets, Novi Sad, Serbia

Beautiful doorway in shadows, Novi Sad, Serbia

Extravagant interior of H&M, Novi Sad, Serbia

The grand streets of Novi Sad, Serbia

Rows of colourful shops, Novi Sad, Serbia

Small alleyway leading off main boulevard, Novi Sad, Serbia

Of course, churches were another main architectural feature of Novi Sad, and the contrast between the main Orthodox and Catholic churches provided some diversity, as did the peculiar Art Nouveau-style synagogue, although the latter was only visible from the outside.

Orthodox Church lavish interior, Novi Sad, Serbia

In awe inside church, Novi Sad, Serbia

Gold and painting inside church, Novi Sad, Serbia

St Mary's Catholic Church, Novi Sad, Serbia

Typical style of orthodox church spire, Novi Sad, Serbia

The quirky unused synagogue, Novi Sad, Serbia

Yugoslavian-era buildings were also a feature, notably apartment blocks and town squares complete with communist style statues. The distinct 1930's style of many of the structures around the city were particularly to our taste.

Distinctive style in Novi Sad, Serbia

Nice little sign in train station, Novi Sad, Serbia

Stylish train station, Novi Sad, Serbia

Going underground, Novi Sad, Serbia

1930's building in the town centre, Novi Sad, Serbia

Checking out the book stall, Novi Sad, Serbia

Street sign, Novi Sad, Serbia

Interesting door design, Novi Sad, Serbia

Living in the Sun Hostel in Belgrade for two months had been fantastic. Having different company at any hour of the day or night, it kept us sane and reminded us that we were not going through this shitty situation alone. The socializing also helped keep our minds concentrated on enjoying the present, and away from discarded travel plans. However, having our own apartment in Novi Sad was wonderful in a different way. The cosy space was very warm, and we only had our own routine to be concerned about. Our exercise regime was started up again, which helped our mental conditions immensely, and having our own bathroom and kitchen was luxurious. Our helpful host, a retired professional volleyball player, was very thoughtful and had put much effort into making the place homey and welcoming.  The change really did us good, although we were also very happy to return to the Belgrade hostel for a couple of nights before we had to leave Serbia.

Our lovely modern apartment, Novi Sad, Serbia

Our apartment building entrance, Novi Sad, Serbia

Our street, Novi Sad, Serbia

Funky window design, Novi Sad, Serbia

Our neighbourhood was brilliantly located and close in proximity to almost everything. The grand old Dunavski Park with it's mature and characterful specimen trees, ponds and fountains was around the corner and was our shortcut to the centre of town. 

Winter scene at Dunavski Park, Novi Sad, Serbia

Majestic old trees, Dunavski Park, Novi Sad, Serbia

Grand row of seats, Dunavski Park, Novi Sad, Serbia

Also close was the Varadin Bridge that led to the massive Petrovaradin Fortress. Construction on the fort originally began with the Romans, but from the 16th century the Turks and Austrians rebuilt and expanded it during the many battles over the years. These days, it was more of a spread out park, with plenty of scope for wandering the remains of old walls and moats, and appreciating views out to the river whilst sipping a cappuccino. On a warm Sunday, the atmosphere was impressive, families gathered to stroll or eat a meal, popcorn venders and postcard sellers. During the week the vibe was more lowkey, and we had the place pretty much entirely to ourselves.

Approach to Petrovaradin Fortress, Novi Sad, Serbia

A moment in the sun, Petrovaradin Fortress, Novi Sad, Serbia

Tunnels and steps, Petrovaradin Fortress, Novi Sad, Serbia

Common sight on European bridges, Petrovaradin Fortress, Novi Sad, Serbia

Looking out over the Danube from Petrovaradin Fortress, Novi Sad, Serbia

View of Petrovaradin Fortress from Varadin Bridge, Novi Sad, Serbia

Poor business trying to keep up with changing closing times, Novi Sad, Serbia

Typical building at base of Petrovaradin Fortress, Novi Sad, Serbia

Neighbourhood markets offered a delightful range of home-grown and home-made products, such as jam, relish, pickles, rakia and wine. The tempting winter ingredients were plentiful, and we took advantage of delicious seasonal vegies- spinach, mushrooms, cauliflower and pumpkin to cook soups and stews. A few other welcome local food discoveries included chunks of smoked bacon, portions of strong cheese and red wine sold by a butcher's shop, of all places. We appreciated buying and cooking healthy meals every day (even though we would swap it all for a spicy pad thai cooked for us on the streets of Thailand in a minute!) Discovering a humble little cafe at our local market, with friendly staff and all sorts of folks gathered for coffee or alcohol was fortuitous. It reminded us of Albanian cafes, and we often partook in delectable apple rakia whilst sitting outside and watching the world go by.

Nearby Riblja Pijaca fresh market, Novi Sad, Serbia

Cappuccinos and apple rakia at local cafe, Novi Sad, Serbia

A contrasting kind of market was the Najlon Flea Market on the outskirts of town. It was a surprisingly huge area separated into new and second hand sections, with literally every imaginable type of good for sale. Second hand clothes stalls, brick-a-brack and tools, stood next to Yugoslavia memorabilia, bikes, plants and home knitted items. Hordes of people scurried around scouting out bargains on the sunny Sunday when we visited, and grabbing a tasty pljeskavica (burger) and coffee, we happily sat and watched the bustle.

All sorts for sale, Najlon Flea Market, Novi Sad, Serbia

Goods for sale and hordes of people, Najlon Flea market, Novi Sad, Serbia

An unexpected and delightful afternoon was spent with our host, who offered us a ride to nearby Fruska Gora National Park. She had a family home near the park which she was renovating, and suggested a drive to a few of the close-by sights. We were very grateful to see the beautiful natural place, as there is no public transport right into the park, and we had no other way of arriving there. Even at the end of winter, the sun shining through the bare trees on hillsides was enchanting, and again left us wanting to see the location in a greener month. The peaceful 16th century "new" Hopovo Monastery we dropped in on had some of the most splendid frescos we have seen in Serbia. After talking with our host about the horrors of three months of bombing raids on Novi Sad by the Americans/NATO in 1999, it was significant to see the massive Crveni Cot concrete telecommunications tower on a hill in the forest. The attempt to completely annihilate the tower had failed, and today a mangled mess still stands as a harsh reminder of that terrible time.

Altar of Hopovo Monastery, Fruska Gora, Novi Sad, Serbia

Looking up, Hopovo Monastery, Fruska Gora, Novi Sad, Serbia

Frescos inside Hopovo Monastery, Fruska Gora

Sunny exterior of Hopovo Monastery, Fruska Gora

Crveni Cot Tower, Fruska Gora, Novi Sad, Serbia

The weather gave us its full spectrum during our February in Novi Sad. The first and last weeks were amazingly warm and sunny, and it felt like spring had arrived with up to 20 degree temperatures. The balmy days had us kind of bouncing around town with everyone else enjoying the conditions. It was lovely to have a break from the cold and made us look forward even more to the coming summer!! The middle two weeks were up and down with both sun and rain, and temperatures ranging from 18 to -5 degrees, sometimes within 24 hours! 

Sun's out! Novi Sad, Serbia

Wandering the streets of Novi Sad, Serbia

Characterful feature, Novi Sad, Serbia

Old and new on streets of Novi Sad, Serbia

A huge long distance path follows the Danube River through many countries, and the portion running through Novi Sad was a fantastic place for a stroll or a coffee in one of many river side cafes. It was also pleasantly organized, with special lanes for joggers, walkers and cyclists. We've included a map of the route of the Danube here, as we found it interesting. A couple we met travelling years ago canoed down the river from beginning to end, and we always remember being fascinated by their journey.

Route of the Danube River from Germany to Ukraine

The views of the river and fortress, and the sunny blue sky through the bare winter trees was charming, as was The Strand, the obligatory beach area on the river, which must become packed with bodies in Summer. A couple of particularly pleasurable boozy afternoons were spent in deck chairs on a lawn next to the Danube, forgetting our worries and soaking up some welcome sunshine for an afternoon.

Misty morning on Danube River, Novi Sad, Serbia

Winter scene, Danube River, Novi Sad, Serbia

Cafe in the sun, Danube River, Novi Sad, Serbia

Relaxing on the banks of the Danube River, Novi Sad, Serbia

Our days out exploring caused us to realize that as lovely as Novi Sad was, a second visit was really needed in order to fully appreciate the beauty in the warmer weather. This especially applied to The Strand- it would be marvellous to see the beach full of sun bathers and swimmers!

Selection of iconic street images, Novi Sad, Serbia

Again, the time had come to decide on our next move from our limited travel options. Our 90 days in wonderful Serbia had come to an end, and a new country was necessary. Taking into account costs, weather and our sanity, North Macedonia seemed as good an idea as any, and we looked into taking a bus from Belgrade to the capital, Skopje.

A happy Rich at Petrovaradin Fort, Novi Sad, Serbia

.....our next blog post takes us to strange Skopje, the capital of North Macedonia.....

WINTER WONDERLAND- Two Festive Months in Serbia

......a post about general travel options in Albania.....

Although our choices for where to spend December were limited, we still had a tough time coming to terms with the idea of being in Europe for winter. We honestly thought those chilly days were behind us and had no inclination to return to freezing weather. Funnily enough, we have had some travels to cool climates in the past couple of years by choice - Nepal in winter last year, for example and Cairo in January 2020. Our memories of being cold on these occasions were still vivid in our minds, and our yearnings to get back to the heat of South East Asia were strong. Unfortunately, the days of actually being able to choose where one travels are behind us all, and so after weighing up all the options we decided our best overall choice was to travel back in Serbia. 

Tasmajdan Park, Belgrade, Serbia

Winter street scene, Belgrade, Serbia

Man playing flute in winter sun, St Sava, Belgrade, Serbia

Serbia had been good to us- we will never forget the relief we felt escaping to there after leaving the UK in July. It was a country with no PCR testing required for entry, a free three month stay with no visa, no issues what-so-ever upon entry, no restrictions on travel within the country and, at the time, little to no restrictions with regard to curfews, masks and lockdowns. We felt like we were in paradise the first time we were there, and as a result will always be grateful for having Serbia as a wonderful travel option. 

Arriving back at the Sun Hostel, Belgrade, after three months away was as close to coming home as we experience in our lives on the road. The lovely staff and guests there welcomed us literally with open arms, and we almost felt as though we had never left! The hostel was extremely cozy and warm- our biggest fear was allayed. Over the following weeks, we realized the advantage of being in a country where there is a heavy winter. All the buildings were designed for the cold weather, pleasantly heated (sometimes almost too much), hot water showers were reliable, and plenty of good quality second-hand winter clothes were cheaply available in the markets. Also, venturing outside into the cold for the first time in Belgrade, we realized when one is properly rugged up and walking for any amount of time, the body is perfectly warm, and if the temperature drops, there are plenty of cafes and shops to pop into and warm up. This sharply contrasted with our experiences in Nepal and Cairo, where the buildings were certainly not built to be warm in winter, hot water was an absolute luxury in budget rooms, and even cafes and shops were not heated, so there was no escape from the cold. 

Old building with posters, Belgrade, Serbia

St Mark's Orthodox Church, Belgrade, Serbia

Modernist building, Belgrade, Serbia

Kids playing in the snow, Belgrade, Serbia

Enjoying the novelty of snow, Belgrade, Serbia

After being excited at seeing snow forecast on the internet, Sal could hardly contain herself  looking out our window the morning after the first snowfall. A thick white layer had covered everything in sight, and the winter wonderland effect was like something out of a movie. However, when we decided to go out and enjoy the chilly atmosphere, we realized what a complete pain it is to try to walk on slushy, partially frozen ground and navigate our way around people with umbrellas, whilst not falling over on the slippery path. Luckily these conditions only lasted one day. Although the snow hung about for days after, the footpaths cleared and unfroze, and it was a pleasure to be able to walk normally, and take in the wonderously white streets and parks. There was really only two days where the snow had frozen and the unpleasant conditions stopped us from wanting to venture outside. This was a much better situation than we had anticipated.

All the lovely outdoor cafe areas closed due to snowfall, Belgrade, Serbia

Tram in Tasmajdan Park, Belgrade, Serbia

Winter plane tree, Belgrade, Serbia

Rugged up against the cold, Belgrade, Serbia

December and January were chock full of celebrations in Belgrade, and it was a brilliant time to be there. Christmas was a completely different affair than the one we had experienced in Thailand for the past years. None of the high pitched sea gypsy music and dancing in circles in a hut on the beach and no feast of goat curry so spicy no non-local could possibly eat it. No giant shell and tropical fruit decorations, no banana tree Christmas tree, and no catching up with best friends. On the other hand, we had a wonderful new group of friends to celebrate with, and although the Western Christmas carols and decorating the hostel with snow flakes and Santa decorations was foreign to us, we got into the spirit and thoroughly enjoyed ourselves.

Newly renovated St Sava church on Christmas Day, Belgrade

Christmassy cafe, Belgrade, Serbia

After a lovely family-style Catholic Christmas on the 25th December, where all the staff and long term guests cooked and shared food, Gregorian New Year's on the 31st December was a huge party, where Serbian guests took over the hostel for a fantastic night of loud music, wild dancing and drinking Serbian beer, wine and rakia. Serbian, or Orthodox Christmas came a week later on the 7th January, and unfortunately we missed the traditional burning of the oak leaves outside St Sava church due to the pouring rain and cold. Instead we chose to stay in and cook and eat more food with our hostel friends. The Julian calendar New Year's on the 14th January was more subdued (everyone was becoming slightly party fatigued!), but still great fun. We made dips and snacks, and danced to traditional Serbian folk music until midnight. 

Dule, the hostel bunny in the snow, Belgrade, Serbia

The most ironic celebration for us was Australia Day, as we haven't been in Australia in January for at least 12 years! Due to the many Aussie close friends and guests associated with the hostel, the staff have taken on Australia Day as a holiday too, and love the particular Aussie traditions associated with it (minus playing cricket in the park or going to the beach, of course!). We set up John Farnham and Kylie Minogue on Spotify, put some Red Faces clips on the TV, and got to work making an Aussie feast consisting of a sausage sizzle, potato salad, fairy bread and sticky date pudding (we snuck in that last one!). 

After two months of busy partying, we felt we needed a change in February and decided to spend the month in Novi Sad, the second city of Serbia, about an hour away from Belgrade. 

.....wonderful, wintery Novi Sad, northern Serbia.......