A STORY ABOUT STATUES AND STRUMKA - Skopje, North Macedonia

........our last blog post coming from Novi Sad, a Serbian city on the Danube........

Some people describe Skopje, the capital of North Macedonia, as unusual or quirky. We would go a step further than that and proclaim it to be completely bonkers. Even after spending two weeks there, we still didn't really know what to make of it!

Orthodox icons in a gallery, Skopje, North Macedonia

Old hammam interior, old bazar, Skopje, North Macedonia

Old bazar, Skopje, North Macedonia

Classical style statues Skopje, North Macedonia

The first few days in the capital were thoroughly confusing. We had read that North Macedonia was a majority Orthodox Christian country, yet evidence of Islam was everywhere in the area where we were staying. There was a distinct "Arabic" feel to the place, with women in hijabs and Muslim prayers in the air five times a day from the many working mosques. Also, many signs were in Albanian, and Albanian flags were flying all over the place. The mixed look amongst the population was by far the most diverse we had seen in the Balkans. So, just what was the story?

Islamic architecture, Skopje, North Macedonia

Deserted street, early morning, Skopje, North Macedonia

After much reading and asking questions, we started to get to the bottom of mysterious Skopje. North Macedonia has a huge ethic Albanian population, who make up a quarter of the roughly two million people in the country. They live in certain parts of the country more than others and Skopje has a huge population of them, mostly living in the cobblestoned Ottoman-era Old Bazar area where our hostel was situated. Because of this, North Macedonia has two official languages. The first is Macedonia, which is Slavic-rooted, like Serbian (and written mostly in Cyrillic), and the second is Albanian. The Albanians are also mainly Muslim, (the most notable exception being Mother Theresa, a Catholic ethnic Albanian born in Skopje). 

Skanderbeg Square, Skopje, North Macedonia

Tool maker, old bazar, Skopje, North Macedonia

Deserted street, old bazar, Skopje, North Macedonia

Leather slippers, old bazar, Skopje, North Macedonia

Many retro coffee houses, old bazar, Skopje, North Macedonia

Defunct pharmacy, old bazar, Skopje, North Macedonia

Personally, we were delighted. Always having loved the Islamic places we have visited, almost without fail, we looked forward to exploring and finding out more information about this compelling and traditional district. Although not as characterful as many other "old bazars" we have come across on our travels, we certainly had plenty to keep us busy wandering, and the wafts of shisha smoke and Turkish music were a joy. Mosques here were subtly and delicately painted with mostly blue and white designs. Worshippers didn't seem to mind us entering, we just sat quietly to observe respectfully. One sunny afternoon sitting in the courtyard of a mosque as the calls to prayer rang out all around the city, we certainly didn't feel like we were in Europe, but some far away exotic land! We worked out it was best to continue learning Macedonian words, as it was easier, and seemed most acceptable amongst the general population. 

Early morning wander, old bazar, Skopje, North Macedonia

Cobblestoned backstreets, old bazar, Skopje, North Macedonia

Funky photo shop, old bazar, Skopje, North Macedonia

Small shops, old bazar, Skopje, North Macedonia

Antiques for sale, old bazar, Skopje, North Macedonia

In 1963, Skopje suffered an enormous earthquake that killed, injured and displaced thousands of people, and destroyed 80% of the city. A Japanese team was brought in to work alongside local architects in the aftermath to rebuild the city, and the resulting architecture was fascinating. Much of these distinctive concrete modernist buildings were currently in the process of being pulled down or renovated. We were particularly disappointed not to be able to visit the funky old train station, which had previously held the Museum for the City of Skopje, due to restorations. We were, however, just in time to see the fantastic old Post Office- a classic design by the Japanese team, before imminent demolition. The Church of St Clement of Ohrid was another quirky modern design, with curved exteriors and bright marvellous icon paintings inside, including Jesus in some unusual poses and the surprising portrayal of angels. 

Monumental post office with fort reflection, Skopje, North Macedonia

Detail of exterior, post office, Skopje, North Macedonia

All that was left of the wonderful old train station, Skopje, North Macedonia

The Church of St Clement of Ohrid, Skopje, North Macedonia

More traditional interior, Church of St Clement of Ohrid, Skopje, North Macedonia

The "Centar" part of Skopje was the real eye opener. In around 2014, the city of Skopje embarked on a mission to beautify the centre of town with the idea to promote Macedonian culture and domestic pride. Not happy with the aforementioned modernist rebuilding after the earthquake, the government was keen to recreate a more monumental and classical feel. The result was a simply incredible collection of  statues of important historical figures placed around various huge and grand gleaming white museums, theatres, bridges and fountains. Macedonia Square (a circle) was the ultimate culmination of excessive extravagance, with larger than life statues lined up across a stone bridge, leading to a magnificent white fountain, surrounded by more massive statues of local heroes and abstract art. Add to that a casino and a replica of the Arc de Triomphe (Macedonia Gate) and ...... well, you get the idea! Also included in the project was revamping government buildings, reconstructing the Kale Fortress and creating a "Mother Theresa precinct", which involved tarting up her old house and the construction of an imposing church complex. The beautification project continues to be very controversial, mainly due to the huge amount of money spent/wasted- some describe it as trashy or tacky. It was certainly over the top, but also held a certain appeal, especially when contrasted and in addition to other parts of the city.

Mosaic in Skanderbeg Square, Skopje, North Macedonia

Reflections, Skopje, North Macedonia

Statues galore, Skopje, North Macedonia

A bit chilly for swimming! Skopje, North Macedonia

Grand architecture, Skopje, North Macedonia

One of many representations in a park, Skopje, North Macedonia

Over the top Macedonia Gate, Skopje, North Macedonia

The grandeur of Macedonia Square, Skopje, North Macedonia

Crossing a bridge from one side of Skopje to the other, North Macedonia

Most of the rest of Skopje we saw varied between pleasant neighbourhoods with leafy streets, parks and cafes surrounded by unassuming apartment blocks, to quite run down and unattractive suburbs with little appeal.

Much of Skopje was pestered by families of Roma beggars- many more than we have ever seen before. They appeared on the streets in a variety of pathetic circumstances. They too, apparently, had their own part of town where they resided- an impoverished suburb in the north of the city. We watched with fascination from a cafe one evening, as some kind of turf war erupted between an old beggar woman and two young Roma girls who were antagonizing her to the point that she began throwing glass bottles at them on the street!

As with everywhere in the Balkans, the history of  North Macedonia is long and complicated, and explains how it became the most ethnically diverse country in the Balkans. Lying on an important trade route across Europe, everyone from the Romans, Byzantines and Slavs to the Bulgarians and Ottomans have at some time invaded and/or settled there. Modern history, however, saw Bulgaria and Serbia fighting over the territory, until Macedonia was made part of Yugoslavia after the end of World War 2. When Yugoslavia dissolved in 1991 and Balkan countries became independent, there was some issues with Greece over adopting the name Macedonia for the country. Macedonia as an area extends two thirds into Greece and one third into North Macedonia, and Greece had a major problem with the two having the same name. The lengthy Former Yugoslav Republic Of Macedonia, or FYROM was temporarily chosen, before negotiations some years later allowed them to use North Macedonia and everyone seemed satisfied with that compromise. 

Love the old flag (Greece wasn't happy with that one)

The current North Macedonian flag is also beautiful

Alexander The Great statue, Skopje, North Macedonia

Sightseeing in Skopje was mostly a leisurely and pleasurable affair, ambling around the streets of various parts of city, visiting a domed-roofed art gallery in a beautiful old hammam, stopping in to admire a mosque or church here and there, pausing for a coffee in a trendy, leafy neighbourhood or finding respite on a sunny bench by a lake in a park. Other days were not quite as satisfying, such as our visit to the somewhat shoddy Kale Fortress, which was probably the worst maintained we have seen in the Balkans- the views from the top the only redeeming feature. During our stay in Skopje, we were to have a mix of weather from cold and sunny, to cool and rainy through to lovely fine days, but it seemed Spring was gradually on it's way (we hoped!)

A quiet time at a Skopje mosque

Blue and white colour scheme of many of Skopje's mosques

Red brick clock tower in a Skopje mosque grounds

Giant stones at Skopje Fortress

Looking down onto Skopje city and into the distant mountains from Skopje Fortress

Rich showing off his athletic prowess, Skopje Fortress

Beautifully set art gallery, Skopje, North Macedonia

We loved this guy, Skopje art gallery

Looking through to a room full of art, Skopje

Spring is on its way?! Skopje, North Macedonia

The town of Tetovo looked intriguing, and was only an hour away on a bus. Being a centre for ethnic Albanians, we found it to have a pleasing and friendly vibe, and we appreciated our visit to see the two main sights there. Spotting the exterior design on the Sarena Dzamija, or Coloured Mosque, from across the road, we were surprised by the striking outside walls which were covered in unusual and eye-catching pastel coloured panels with geometric designs. But it was the interior that was quite jaw dropping. The small room was covered in bright paintings on every square inch- portrayals of cities, landscapes, plants, and geometric shapes with yellow, blue and red the predominant colours. The mosque was designed by two sisters in 1495 and subsequently renovated by a local politician in 1833 after a fire. It is an example of Ottoman architecture, and inspired by late Italian Baroque, and so incredibly different from any mosque we have seen before- we were altogether impressed. Most mosques in South-east Asia and the Middle East are quite plain inside, and the most beautiful interiors we have seen were in the mosques of Iran and Central Asia, dripping with colour, mirrors and tiles. However, Sarena Dzamija was definitely the most unusual. 

Glorious exterior, Sarena Dzamija, Tetovo, North Macedonia

Unusual colours and shapes on outside, Sarena Dzamija, Tetovo, North Macedonia

Vivid designs at the entrance, Sarena Dzamija, Tetovo, North Macedonia

Pretty window sill, Sarena Dzamija, Tetovo, North Macedonia

Bright picture-filled interior, Sarena Dzamija, Tetovo, North Macedonia

Scenes of towns and flowers on ceiling, Sarena Dzamija, Tetovo, North Macedonia

Luscious interior, Sarena Dzamija, Tetovo, North Macedonia

Nearby stone hammam, Tetovo, North Macedonia

A walk through a Muslim graveyard took us to Arabati Baba Teke, a Bektashi Monastery. Our arrival coincided with prayer time, so we stepped back to watch the men arrive on bicycles, gather and chat and then enter the mosque to pray. Many of the timeworn wooden structures in the complex were in disrepair, but we enjoyed a look around the pleasingly tranquil grounds, before heading back to the bus station, and to Skopje. We talked a bit about the mysterious Bektashi order here in an Albanian blog.

Unusual stone monastery buildings, Arabati Baba Teke, Tetovo, North Macedonia

Wooden and aged, Arabati Bab Teke, Tetovo, North Macedonia

Muslim cemetery, contrasting greatly with the cross filled Orthodox ones in Serbia

Bektashi gravestones, Tetovo, North Macedonia

The working mosque at Arabati Baba Teke, Tetovo, North Macedonia

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Food in Skopje was quite similar to what we had been eating in Serbia, although the Macedonians don't share the Serbian's obsession with having a bakery every few steps. The locals did seem to love burek and pita, though, pastries that are very popular all over the Balkans and Central Asia. There were many more Turkish-style doner kebab, kebapi (the same as cevapi in Serbia), and pleskavica (burger) joints. Our favourite very basic little place sold filling chicken doners, stuffed into fluffy bread with salads galore with an all Turkish signage and décor for 70 denar/less than £1. The national bean dish of tavce gravce, was a firm favourite of ours, different to the Serbian or Albanian national bean dishes, but every bit as delicious- especially with the heavenly Turkish bread it was served with. Shopska salata (salad with tomatoes, cucumber, onion and salty cheese) and the condiment ajvar (roasted capsicum sauce) rounded out the common Balkan side dishes. Mastika was supposed to be the national drink, but was not widely available, and we actually never saw it once in Skopje. We did, however, find an extremely decent Macedonian red wine, and couldn't grumble at the 100 MKD/£1.40 price tag for two litres! Weirdly, we found ourselves irrationally attracted to Strumka, a local soft drink reminiscent of creamy soda. Maybe it invoked childhood memories!

Delicious meal of tavce gravce, shopska salata and Strumka! Skopje, North Macedonia

Eclairs are extremely common and popular in North Macedonia

Our favourite friendly little eatery, Skopje, North Macedonia

We found a good value room at a friendly hostel in Skopje run by two overworked brothers, and enjoyed the unexpectedly high number of fellow travellers that gathered on the communal balcony to exchange travel stories. 

Considering that we didn't know the location of North Macedonia on a map until last year, it might be safe to assume many of you also won't have a clue either! We've included a map to show the proximity to the surrounding Balkan countries.

Our route by bus from Belgrade, Serbia to Skopje, North Macedonia

Unfortunately named hotel, Skopje, North Macedonia

My sentiments exactly!!

.....a lovely blog post about the rest of our time in North Macedonia, slowly heading south.......