THE BALLS OF BOSNIA - Sarajevo and Zavidovići, Bosnia and Hercegovina

.....previously,we were in Mostar and Konjic, further south in Bosnia and Hercegovina.......

Giant stone ball at Zavidovići, Bosnia and Hercegovina

Arriving in Sarajevo after our less than impressive train trip from Konjic, we were greeted with cool temperatures. It seemed summer was well and truly over, and this autumn the weather would be mixed and not terribly warm. Luckily, our Air B and B host was on hand to pick us up from the railway station and drive us to the cosy high-rise apartment we would be renting in Sarajevo. A lovely man, he showed us around the place, equipped with everything we could possibly need, and left us to settle in to the warm and comfy rooms. We loved the apartment so much, we quickly asked to extend our stay for another week. 

The neighbourhood in which we were staying was intriguing to us, and our first time in such a place. Yugoslavia-era apartment blocks rose up all around us, but rather than feeling oppressive, there was a lovely community feel, with families and kids playing in the parks, old men in wee local cafes, plenty of markets and shops, and friendly people in our building. The beast of an old elevator was a saviour for us staying on the 6th floor, and we should imagine even more for those up on the 20th floor! Intriguing communal heating plants with huge chimneys had been built alongside all the surrounding tower blocks to supply residents with heating and hot water.

Foyer and letterboxes, Sarajevo accommodation

Our Sarajevo high-rise block

Street art of Sarajevo

Pristine vintage car, Sarajevo

Nearby was the Miljacka River, which ran along the valley into the old part of Sarajevo. Trams, buses and trolley buses all followed this route, and navigating the city was cheap and easy, once we sussed out how to buy a ticket! Apparently, Sarajevo was one of the first cities in Europe to use an electric tram system.

Peaceful walk into the city centre, Sarajevo

Sarajevo tram, Bosnia

Trolleybus ticket, Sarajevo, Bosnia

Tram depot, Sarajevo, Bosnia

Dozens of second hand shops could be found in the area surrounding our digs, so we set to buying a couple of warmer items to see us through the next month. We were greatly looking forward to visiting the Sunday flea market on the edge of town, and we were certainly not disappointed. The biggest second hand market we have every seen, the stalls sprawled out for miles. An eclectic mixture of casual tarps on the ground with piles of junk, and more professionally set up stalls- it felt like everything under the sun was available there. Most interesting were the collections of cool Yugoslavia memorabilia, with an alarming amount of bright orange kitchenware from the 1970s, as well as rotary phones, metal military badges, gas masks and Bosnian comic books. Added to those were random objects such as gold lame wellington boots, piles of laptops, and even a dildo! Thousands of winter coats were heaped up all over the place and so many winter woolly bargains it would be hard to choose what to buy. Thankfully, we were leaving for Thailand before the really cold weather set in, so we were only looking. 

Sarajevo is a long thin city, and hilly, with streets rising steeply up to old suburbs and forested parts. We enjoyed the walk up to the Yellow and White forts, Ottoman relics popular for sunset views. The best part, however, was wandering the very Muslim neighbourhood up there, home to many local clubs and cafes complete with men in Muslim skull caps and women in headscarves, which we hadn't really seen so far in Bosnia. 

The quiet cobblestone streets with attractive white mosques and dozens of friendly black cats took our minds off the arduous slopes, and the outstanding views of the picturesque city were worth the effort. Remnants of ancient walls were scattered around the hill, perhaps once enclosing the whole city. 

Subsequent jaunts in the hills surrounding Sarajevo provided more lovely vistas. We came across a beautiful, yet poignant cemetery with hundreds of graves of young lives lost in the early 1990s, unfortunately one of many such places in Bosnia and Hercegovina.

Glorious views from Sarajevo hills, Bosnia

Sad, quiet cemetery

Sarajevo is tiny for a capital city, with the population standing at less than 300,000, and exploring was a joy. The old part of town was a mix of styles- Yugo brutalism from the 1970s, Ottoman beauties still intact, and a sprinkling of Austro-Hungarian doorways and windows particularly noticeable. A muddled but marvellous blend of added architectural bits and pieces throughout the years created a wonderful character. Again, as previously mentioned many buildings of all ages were riddled with bullet holes, a remainder of the violence of the 1990s. 

Austro-Hungarian era Vijećnica, Sarajevo city hall

Retro remainder from the 1984 Olympic games, skating rink

Heart of the Ottoman centre of Sarajevo, Bosnia

Fancy Ottoman fellow, Sarajevo, Bosnia

Funky Yugo-style side alley way, Sarajevo

Sunny courtyards and parks with giant chess sets complimented soaring mosques and bazaars. We haven't been to Turkey, but we imagined it must be something like this. We were again slightly put off by the tour groups jam packed into the narrow streets. On our visit to the cobblestoned Ottoman old section of Sarajevo, there was a water problem and none of the hundreds of cafes had any running water. Considering the amount of tourists and others crowded into them, it must have been terrible for business.

Pots and cups for sale, Sarajevo old town

Particularly fancy coffee in Sarajevo alley cafe

Smack bang in the middle of the old quarter was the Latin Bridge, the site where the Archduke Franz Ferdinand was shot, supposedly being the catalyst for the beginning of World War One (and inspiration for the name of Indie Glaswegian band Franz Ferdinand). The assassination is said to have been carried out by Bosnian Serb Gavrilo Princip. He was part of a group of revolutionaries who wanted to leave the rule of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. With the end of World war One, this indeed happened, with Bosnia becoming part of Yugoslavia. 

The infamous Latin Bridge in Sarajevo, Bosnia

Pomegranates in season, Sarajevo, Bosnia

Splendid park in the middle of Sarajevo, Bosnia

Tragically, Sarajevo is also know for the horrors of the Bosnian War in the 1990s, and in particular the Siege of Sarajevo between 1992 and 1996. the longest siege in modern history. For nearly four years, the residents of the city were trapped and attacked by Bosnian Serb troops who had encircled the city on all sides. Bosniak troops inside defended the city the best they could, but their arms were inferior and they were unable to break the siege. Residents were often without water and power for months at a time, and food and medical supplies were blocked. When a peace agreement was finally signed many thousands had died. Exact figures are uncertain, but a large portion were civilians and of mixed ethnicities.

Sarajevo's recent history is so heartbreakingly awful, it's hard to think about. When we first arrived in Bosnia, we saw a few buildings with marks on the exteriors, and we remarked how much they looked like bullet holes. Little did we know that not only were we correct, but we were to see this type of damage extensively in literally every place we visited on many, many buildings. As we learnt more about the recent history and what had occurred during the Bosnian War in the 1990s, we realized that the fighting had been wide spread and close up, at times people fighting their neighbours directly across the street. Our minds struggled to connect the horrors that had occurred in the beautiful places we were in, and to think about the easy-going locals fighting each other in such a vicious fashion. 

Peaceful scene, Sarajevo hill

Out of interest, nowadays more than half of Bosnia and Hercegovina's residents are Sunni Muslim, followed by a large part of Orthodox Christians and a smaller percentage of Catholics. This is reversed in the Republika Srpska part of Bosnia, where the majority of residents are Orthodox Christians.

Lovely old green mosque, Sarajevo, Bosnia and Hercegovina

We were impressed by the plentiful outward signs of support of Palestine, with many large banners displayed in prominent positions, and various business also proclaiming solidarity by stickers or signs.

Unfortunately, as much as we enjoyed exploring the city of Sarajevo, and our lovely apartment, we won't be back any time soon due to the excessive amount of weather manipulation being carried out. Although we have been plagued by spraying in the skies throughout the Balkans, Sarajevo was the worst we have ever seen anywhere in the world. 

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Our final train trip in Bosnia awaited us upon leaving Sarajevo. We were heading to Zavidovići, a small town on the Bosna, the same river the railway line trails. We had been following this route up and down for the last couple of months. Hoping to spend some time in nature after our stay in Sarajevo, our main reason for visiting Zavidovići was to see the mysterious giant balls that had been discovered there.

Leaving the big city

Our railway journey passed quickly thanks to conversation with a most refreshing young man on a break from university. The three of us shared a compartment on the same old fashioned type of train we had caught from Maglaj at the beginning of our Bosnian trip. He was a chatty fellow, and we appreciated hearing his views on everything from the Bosnian War to local food. He was also full of questions about Australian culture, which we happily answered. As the evening drew in, he phoned our friendly Zavidovići host for us, and we arranged a pick up from the station. This was a great help, due to the cold, pitch black night, and the distance between the station and where we were staying. A welcome rakija and some bacon sandwiches on arrival finished us off for the night. 

Four poster bed in the "Romance Room" at Zavidovići

We were keen to see the stones the next morning, and walked more than an hour to discover an absolutely enchanting wooded site. We were entirely alone there during our visit, with only a tiny kitten for company. Some modest work had been done to create basic paths and huts at the site, but mostly it was natural and gorgeous. The autumn forest colours were all gloriously aglow, with golden oak and beech leaves spread like a carpet on the ground. A small stream lead through the trees and this is where the beautiful stones were - about 15 of them, spaced out along the brook. Perfectly round and smooth, we were immediately drawn to them and despite the damp and drizzly weather, felt compelled to touch them. Their sizes varied, and they were mysterious and lovely. The spot was so enchanting, it was something like being inside a fairy tale. Strolling around we found crazy mushrooms growing, moss covered rocks, and wild strawberry ground covers. The misty and damp weather added to the entrancing atmosphere, but we weren't able to explore the pretty surrounding area much- too muddy and slippery. Instead, we hung out admiring the stones for a while, before we returned home cold and soaked, ready for a hot shower. 

Exploring the stream filled with stone balls, Zavidovići

Bright critter in autumn leaves, Zavidovići

Transfixed by the feel, Zavidovići

Fairy tale feel, forest at Zavidovići

Damp weather brought out thousands of mushroom varieties

We hadn't realized when we booked our room, but there was a second, lesser know stone site right around the corner from us. The next day, we headed off, and were surprised to find another spot, just as lovely as the other, but with only one giant ball, instead of several smaller ones. A funky little wooden café had been constructed on the site, and as we arrived three relaxed looking men welcomed us, and tried to communicate with us. Realizing we were English speakers, one of them phoned his friend in Melbourne to see if we needed any help or information. We spent some time inspecting and appreciating the giant stone, which was still partially embedded in the ground. The forest surrounding the area was every bit as captivating as the previous day's, and after some wet walking and connecting to the nature, we headed back to the café. 

The biggest stone of all, Zavidovići

Beautiful forest scene, Zavidovići

Sal making friends with shaggy green rock, Zavidovići

Of the three resident guys, one was Italian, the other two Bosnia, none spoke English, only Italian and German. Nevertheless, we managed a brilliant conversation for a few hours there about the mysterious places we'd seen in Bosnia, hunting, Italian mafia and India to name a few subjects! Much sign language and a few drawings helped the conversation along. The "rakija" we were given would have been an insult in Serbia, but after the first one, it wasn't so bad. Hoping to avoid any more rain, we walked back to our digs in the drizzle ready for a warm and cosy evening, and feeling contented and happy. 

New mates at the giant balls

Communicating with (dodgy) pictures

Mist on the hills, autumn in Zavidovići, Bosnia

https://www.geologypage.com/2017/01/biggest-stone-ball-europe-just-discovered-bosnia.html

After reading our previous blog post talking about the Pyramids of Visoko, some readers came away with the impression we thought the whole thing a hoax and didn't consider the claims to be genuine. This isn't true- we are completely open to the idea of past advanced civilizations, and consider the ideas of Samir Osmanagić to be totally feasible. It was just the New Age industry that had rose up around the claims that we were sceptical about. Similarly, we were completely open minded about the stones balls, what they were and how they had been formed. They are one of many similar sites around the world, and we look forward to one day seeing others. One thing was for certain, we felt a special energy coming from those stones, that we didn't feel so much in Visoko. This exceptional place, along with the extraordinary Belogradchik in Bulgaria were the highlights for us of this year's Balkan travels.

Autumn leaves, Zavidovići, Bosnia and Hercegovina

After two wonderful months in Bosnia and Hercegovina, we ready to make our way to Budapest via a short time in Croatia, a brand new country for us! 

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Some extra notes on Bosnia:

As we expected, many aspects of Bosnian culture and life were similar to the other Balkan countries we had visited. The big contrast here was the captivating Muslim/Ottoman influence, and this difference had us absorbed as we travelled around the country.

Bosnian food was similar to Serbian, except perhaps with less variety in eateries. They are absolutely obsessed here with the ćevapi, and places offering the meaty treat ćevabdžinica are seemingly every few steps. It has to be said, although we feel disloyal to Serbia to say it, Bosnia does the best version of ćevapi we've had anywhere. The bread is the star attraction, with a light and slightly chewy consistency, and the meat juicy and tasty.

The best ćevapi is Bosnian ćevapi- sorry Serbians!

VERY sweet Bosnian dessert, tulumbe

It has to be said, the Balkans version of "fast food" is actually in general, fantastic quality, fresh, home-made goodness- filling and delicious. It cannot be in any way compared to the inferior artificial, highly processed slop known as fast food in other parts of the world.

We wondered if alcohol would be freely available in Muslim Bosnia and Hercegovina, but thankfully it was. The only limitation was some cafes only selling non-alcoholic drinks such as tea and coffee. Pork was also for sale in most supermarkets, just not in ćevabdžinica.

Bosnian beers were a hit with us, we enjoyed every one of the several we sampled. Wines, on the other hand, at least at the cheap end of the spectrum, were dire, and best left on the shelf. 

A selection of Bosnian beers

The spread of our Bosnian travel destinations 2024

We have to make an addendum here..... our long time friend wrote this most lovely poem about our time at the balls. We appreciate his effort, and his prose- expressing thoughts many times better than we ever could! Thank you!

Zavidovići's Enchanting Embrace

From Sarajevo's bustling streets,
To Zavidovići's tranquil retreat,
A train journey through landscapes serene,
Conversations with a young soul keen.

In the heart of the forest, a mystical call,
Giant balls, a sight to enthrall,
A wooded haven, a fairy tale's grace,
Where nature's beauty leaves its trace.

Golden leaves, a carpet so grand,
A stream whispers, secrets in hand,
Perfectly round, the stones so grand,
Mysteries whispered, in this enchanted land.

Misty air, a touch of mystique,
Mushrooms sprout, and colors speak,
A tiny kitten, a playful guide,
In this woodland realm, where wonders reside.

Another site, with a single ball's might,
A wooden café, bathed in warm light,
Conversations flow, beyond language's hold,
In this shared moment, stories unfold.

Rakija's warmth, in the drizzling rain,
Contentment fills, easing every pain,
Zavidovići's embrace, a memory to keep,
In the depths of the forest, where dreams run deep. IZ

........next up a short, but sweet post about our journey through the north of Croatia......