GHOST TRAIN TO KYRGYZSTAN - Shymkent and Taraz, Kazakhstan

.....previously, meanderings around Samarkand and Tashkent in Uzbekistan.......

Tekturmas mausoleum, Taraz

For something different we had a rather unexpectedly posh seat on the train from Tashkent in Uzbekistan to Shymkent over the border into Kazakhstan. Our position near a rowdy family with three little kids was a bit unfortunate, but it was still comfortable, and we were glad for the AC when the train stopped for two lengthy periods on either side of the border. The immigration and customs was carried out onboard, without any trouble- the officials typically friendly and inquisitive. 

The longest train we've ever seen, Tashkent - Shymkent train

Chaotic, but comfortable, Tashkent to Shymkent train

It was with slight trepidation that we checked into the hostel we had chosen in Shymkent. The reviews were generally good, but someone had written that they had been threatened with a knife in the male dorm and nearly killed! But for the price, we decided it was worth a go. As it turned out it was a cheap and basic room in a quiet and central setting, mostly full of single Kazak men in the dorms. They were all perfectly nice and polite- one man even said via Google translate that we were a beautiful couple! And no sign of knife violence!

We weren't particularly taken with Shymkent, a rather shabby town with a lot of rubbish, and mad drivers. Prices were slightly higher here than in Uzbekistan for basic items, but the worst part for us was the lack of much historical interest. Shymkent was once on the ancient Silk Route, but practically all evidence of that has been erased by now. Apparently, the attractions lay outside the city in some national parks, but we were keen to move on to Kyrgyzstan and didn't allocate any time to exploring further. 

Roses galore in a lush park, Shymkent, Kazakhstan

Funny old Soviet drinking mural, Skymkent

We spent a couple of days exploring the many parks in town, in particular the walk along the Koshkar Ata canal, beginning at a spring which held spiritual meaning for the locals. Many people were there collecting water to drink, having an early morning stroll or exercising on equipment (mostly men disconcertedly in their underpants). We followed the shady peaceful path as long as we could, Richard fascinated by the trout in the canal, which were apparently protected and multiplying in large numbers. We eventually arrived at Independence Park, a huge, shadeless square, where an enormous rocket-like memorial to Kazakhstan's 20th anniversary of independence from the Soviet Union sat on a hill. Apparently it was composed of 137 different metals to represent the 137 different ethnic groups in the country. The park was well looked after, and will be lovely in a few years when the trees grow and provide some shade. 

Trout in stream, Koshkar Ata, Shymkent

Koshkar Ata canal, Shymkent

Shady walk on a hot day, Koshkar Ata, Symkent

Rocket-like Independence statue, Shymkent, Kazakhstan

A funny, but embarrassing incident occurred in a Shymkent restaurant, when we were seated and waiting for our food. A local guy built like a wrestler entered, made a bee-line for us, and insisted on buying us some plov, so we could try the Kazakh version of the classic dish. As he spoke to our waiter, we presumed our first order would be cancelled. But soon, dish after dish started arriving at the table, and as our benefactor stood there beaming, and we had to do our best to try to finish everything. It was an extremely generous gesture from this man, if somewhat badly timed. 

Finished the plov, onto the meat!

Mastava soup, and of course, plov

The platform at Shymkent train station was crowded with people when we arrived to wait for our morning train to Taraz. One helpful man of Russian heritage approached us to see if we needed assistance- he may have thought we were Russian. It was handy to have him translate for us every time their was an announcement about how late the train would be. When the it arrived, there was a bit of a scrum to embark (our Indian strategies coming back to us in our time of need!). Once on board, of course, everyone had a seat, and we were sharing with a family with two sweet little girls, who were travelling all the way to Astana. We watched as they prepared for their long journey, made up the beds for them all, set out their drinks and food on the little table, changed into comfortable slip on shoes, and unpacked playing cards and their jackets in anticipation of the cold evening. As we were only going a few hours up the line, we contended ourselves to look out the window at the surprisingly green outlook. We were expecting desert in this area, but there was much agriculture, farms and orchards. Looking out towards the Kyrgyzstan border, the view was all majestic mountains in their snowy glory. Kazakh style graveyards (the most picturesque) seemed to fill every hill with their castle-like tombs, and horses, cows and big bummed sheep dotted the country side. It was a beautiful trip.

Far away graveyard, Taraz

Looking like a picture frame, Shymkent to Taraz train

Sleeper train Shymkent to Taraz 

Our arrival at Taraz was complicated. The host at the fancy apartment we had booked assumed we had mobile phone access and would call her when our train got in- we were left waiting at her building's entrance without a clue how to enter or check in. The caretaker took pity on us, let us into her office to wait and called our host. All ended well, and we were surprised at the standard of the apartment compared to the cheap price. We had become used to such extravagant (for us) apartments in the Balkans and Romania, but in Central Asia the accommodation on offer was generally hostels, guesthouses or simple rooms in people's homes. 

Old fashioned hallway, Taraz apartment

Glimpse into our swish kitchen, Taraz apartment

Our home for a short time, Taraz, Kazakhstan

Most of our couple of days in Taraz was taken up with (a) looking at options for leaving the town, or (b) looking around at various tombs. For some reason, the train to Bishkek we wanted to take was about ten times more expensive than other comparative trips we had taken, and our lack of Russian speaking skills didn't help in trying to find out why. We decided to check out bus options with a long, crowded trip to the bus station on the other side of town, only to find language again making it difficult for us to suss out what the circumstances were. As the bus situation seemed very complicated, with multiple changes at the border, and irregular times, we bit the bullet and went for the pricey train. A side note has to be made about the extremely helpful ticket seller at Taraz train station. Without a word of English, she made a huge effort to help us find the information we needed and get our tickets for us. Most people working in this job in Central Asia only do what is strictly necessary, without going out of their way to help. 

Beautiful scene at Taraz

With that sorted, we visited two revered mausoleums, the monuments to Karakhan and Dauitbek, two governors of Taraz from the 11th and 13th centuries. These were contained in a park with some ruins of an ancient caravanserai, with a 200 tenge/£0.35 entrance fee. When Rich saw there was a pensioner discount, he showed his passport and we both got in for 100 tenge/ £0.17. How embarrassing! Anyway, inside, as typically with these religious buildings, there was a holy man on hand to sing a lovely prayer, which we listened to without understanding, but with appreciation. 

Sal at caravserai ruins, Taraz

A new and huge complex on a hill overlooking the Talas River was a bit of a strange place. It was reconstructed in 2002, after apparently being destroyed in the 1930s, and is dedicated to the burial place of a saint, or was he the commander of an army- no one is completely sure who he was. Anyway, we enjoyed the views over the town very much, and while we were in a peaceful, shady part of the complex, we were completely mobbed by a group of gorgeous school kids. Kazakh kids have got to be the cutest! We had a photoshoot for about half an hour, until a group of Japanese tourists showed up, and stole our thunder.

Massive monument to Tekturmas, Taraz

The beginning of the photoshoot, Taraz

Excited kids at Tekturmas mausoleum, Taraz

Cute Kazakh girl, Taraz

On our final night in Taraz we entered one of the many beer shops we had seen around Shymkent and Taraz. We assumed they were just the usual grog shops, and as we had already gotten our wine at the supermarket, we didn't need to explore that option further. What we discovered in Taraz, however, was a tiny shop with five or six different fresh local draught beers on tap. The price was unreal at 550 tenge/less than £1 for one litre, and tasted so good it even gave the Balkan beers a run for their money. We wished we had have unearthed this marvel sooner in the week!

Ready for another scrum to board the train from Taraz to Bishkek, we arrived early, and found a practically empty platform. As the train rolled in pretty much on time, we rushed to find the right "vagon" (carriage), and jumped on only to find that, apart from a couple of sleeping railway employees, we were the only passengers on the entire carriage! The attendant indicated we should set up and sleep anywhere we wanted to. Puzzled, we saw evidence of past passengers, in the form of rolled up bundles of used bed linen, but without anyone speaking English, we had no way to know what was going on. In the end, we rode the entire eight hours without another soul getting on or off. Just like the high cost of the ticket, we were never to find out why there were so few passengers.

Completely empty train from Kazakhstan to Kyrgzstan

The two rail attendants onboard were so curious about us, great communicators and for Kyrgyzstan so typically friendly- we were really happy to be heading back there. Apart from a few encounters, we hadn't found the Kazakhs overly welcoming this time around. Our last epic trip to Kazakhstan had been so memorable and we had loved the people and the landscape, but this short trip was simply less interesting. 

Anyway, it was a long and slow journey, with lengthy standstills at the border posts on the Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan side. The guards were very interested in Richard's various potions and spices, but after a detailed search and the drugs dog giving everything a good sniff, they were satisfied. Wouldn't be surprised if they were bored out of their brains and wanted to see what the foreigners were carrying. We were comfortable on the train, and obviously able to spread out and enjoy the last of the Kazakh scenery, but by the time we arrived in the wee hours of the morning into Bishkek station, we were quite exhausted. An amazing fact, that says a lot about the train system in this part of the world, was although the train had originated in Russia, we arrived at the final destination only five minutes late.

Looking out the train window towards Kyrgyzstan

Kyrgyzstan has very few trains, and Bishkek station is not busy at the most active of times. At 2.30am on the morning we arrived, there was little action. The couple of taxis there picking up other passengers wanted US$20 for the six minute drive to our accommodation, and not yet having any local money, we felt a bit stranded. Luckily, a friendly man from the train took pity on us, and gave us a lift when his brothers came to collect him. Who knows how far out of their way they went for us, but we were very grateful. 

Our trip through a tiny portion of gigantic Kazakhstan

....finally in Kyrgyzstan!.......

MORE BERRIES THAN YOU CAN SHAKE A SALAMI AT - Samarkand and Tashkent, Uzbekistan

......previously, our first few weeks in Uzbekistan in the deepest southern town of Termez.........

As a large portion of the Uzbek population were visiting relatives during the end of Ramadan, we reluctantly had to change our travel plans. The train we were hoping to take from Termez to the Fergana Valley was full, so we chose to go as far as Samarkand, and spend a few days there before returning to Tashkent. 

The magnificent Bibi-Khanym Mosque, Samarkand

We normally travel in platzkart class on Russian-style trains. As it's the cheapest class, and for us, perfectly comfortable, we never had need to think about upgrading. However, this time, due to the busy time of year, we could only book kupe class, the next step up. It was a good opportunity to try something new. But as it turned out, kupe lacked the open and social feeling of platzkart that we enjoy, with only 4 beds in a compartment instead of 6 or 8, and a door that closed. There was no AC, only a tiny window in the top, next to our heads, and we were glad for the fresh air when we boarded as it was baking hot. As the journey went on, though, and the night cooled considerably, fresh air tuned cold, and Sal in particular, had no sleep due to a chilly wind coming in the window all night. 

Kupe class on Uzbek train (we were up top)

It was our third visit to the important Silk Road city, and although we were not as awe-struck as the first time, the magnificence of Samarkand never fails to impress. We arrived early at our favourite guesthouse in Uzbekistan, a homely, leafy family place set around a central courtyard. We were immediately welcomed with a huge breakfast, after which we thankfully collapsed into a comfortable bed to recover from the trip. 

Bibi-Khanym Mosque, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

We spent three relaxing days, wandering around a few of the lesser visited sights we missed on our other visits- it is difficult to see past the mammoth and sparkling big sites in Samarkand, such as our favourite, Shar-i-Zinda. 

A few remaining tiles, Ishratkhana, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

A quiet spot, Ishratkhana, Samarkand, Uzbekistan

A beautifully calm morning was spent visiting the mausoleum of famed Islamic jurist Abdu Durum. It was a quiet complex, with few people around - the couple of men that were praying there gave us some pastries and water. The ancient setting around the fish pond and the surrounding four huge plane trees was pleasing and cool and we sat there for quite some time.

Quiet place to pray, Abdu Durum Mausoleum, Samarkand

Handsome minaret, Abdu Durum Mausoleum, Samarkand

Peeking in the entrance,  Abdu Durum Mausoleum, Samarkand

Wooden carving on ceiling, Abdu Durum Mausoleum, Samarkand

Lovely setting around a pond, Abdu Durum Mausoleum, Samarkand

Stunning colours, Abdu Durum Mausoleum, Samarkand

We wandered up the hill to see the stunning view from the ex-president Islam Karimov's mausoleum (he was born and grew up around here). It was interesting to see so many local pilgrims here, praying and visiting the tomb. A thought-provoking comment about Karimov from the legendary Central Asian planning website Caravanistan:

"Karimov stole billions from his people and stymied the economy, forcing millions to find work in Russia as badly treated migrant workers.

He also closed the borders, restricted religious freedoms, forced children to pick cotton (while draining the Aral Sea to water that cotton), had thousands of opponents murdered and tortured, and thousands more jailed. Yet, you will find his mausoleum thronged with pilgrims searching for a blessing from the revered forefather. In Central Asia, ancestors have a presence in daily life after they passed away; they spread their spiritual energy and mediate individual relationships with God. Even if they ruthlessly oppressed you."

What a view from Karimov's tomb complex, Samarkand

Locals praying at the tomb

Highly decorated and popular place to visit

Samarkand bazaar was a wonderful mixture of produce, handicrafts, gourmet treats and practical items. The touristy spice stall vendors were hell bent on selling tourists saffron, ladies in scarves sold diary products from buckets on the ground, nougats and halva were piled up in tempting piles, and the aroma of fresh bread came from the bakery section as famous Samarkand-style round loaves were baked and raced around in delivery carts. The fresh fruit was what we were eying, and we ended up with bag loads of gorgeous strawberries. Apricots and cherries were also coming onto the market, and boys juicing strangely pallid pomegranates stood on every corner. Around the edge of the outdoor market were the shops selling a huge array of cheeses and salamis - they really love their salami here. 

Paying for her strawberries, Samarkand bazaar

Gorgeous ceramic section, Samarkand bazaar

'Ere, try this one on for size

Yummy array of early spring fruit, Samarkand bazaar

The train back to Tashkent from Samarkand was aboard the very civilized and touristy highspeed Afrosiyob train, complete with AC, airplane-style seats, and a snack and coffee included in the fare. The only interesting activity was trying to board alongside a large group of enormous Indian tourists, causing complete chaos and noise as only Indians can. Half of them ended up to be in the wrong carriage, and had to back themselves and their considerable amounts of luggage out while everyone else was trying to board. Soon we all settled down and enjoyed the short trip in comfort. 

Back in Tashkent, we continued our casual sightseeing- an impressive graveyard full of Soviet-era busts of Russian officials, a madrassa converted into a traditional crafts workshop, and a palace which design was based on industry. A fantastic find was Mirabad Bazaar, much closer to us than than huge and famous Chorsu Bazaar. This charming market with friendly vendors had everything we needed all contained under an attractive round flat roof. We actually discovered a new, slightly more expensive strawberry variety that was so unbelievable delicious there's almost no words to describe. 

Imposing busts and graves, Chigatay Cemetery

Crafty Abdulkasym madrassa, Tashkent

Brutalist architecture, Friendship Palace, Tashkent

Friendship Palace, complete with bolts falling from the roof, Tashkent (spot the cap)

Mirabad Bazaar, Tashkent

Delicatessen shop selling all sorts of meats and cheeses

All of a sudden a month had passed since our arrival in Uzbekistan, and it was time for us to leave the country. We had, by now, formulated some sort of plan, and decided to make a few stops in Kazakhstan on our way to Kyrgyzstan. We could hardly wait!! Please stay tuned, and we promise the next blog post won't be so long in arriving. We were a bit overwhelmed when we first arrived, and took a little while to get ourselves into gear. 

Giant plov pot, Tashkent

Moody under the city, Tashkent

Rush hour, Tashkent metro

More beautiful metro art, we are fascinated by it!

A few general notes about travel in Uzbekistan:

Having arriving into Uzbekistan from Penang in full hot season in April, where the energy was drained out of us, and the feeling of lethargy was difficult to shake, we absolutely revelled in the cooler spring weather of Central Asia. Days were sunny and warm, and nights just the right temperature for sleeping soundly.  

Unusual statue on a grave, Tashkent

As previously stated, accommodation costs had risen in the three years since we last visited in 2019. We stayed at a mixture of hostels and guesthouses, and the were all clean and friendly. Most accommodation offered a substantial breakfast, sometimes included and sometimes for a few dollars extra. We paid between £16- £22 a night for a double room, usually with our own bathroom.

Our comfy, homey room in Samarkand, Uzbekistan

I'm sure we've mentioned it before, but we absolutely love the ease of the public transport in Central Asia. In all the places we visited in Uzbekistan, local buses were one price for a single trip, no matter how far one went. In Tashkent, this was the same for the metro. 1,400-1500 som (£0.09-£0.10) was paid to the driver as one exited the bus. So easy. The long distance trains seemed somewhat pricey, but it's all relative. Our longest train trip, which was 14 hours, cost 170,000 som each, about £12.

Ready for boarding, Uzbekistan trains

Samarkand train station, Uzbekistan

It's probably pretty clear that we adore the fresh produce in Uzbekistan. Everywhere we went, seasonal fruit and veggies and freshly baked bread were available. Dairy products were delish and always full fat- none of this diet crap in Central Asia! Smetana (a cross between Greek yoghurt and sour cream) is our favourite, and this time we discovered Central Asian-style kaymak. We had tried kaymak in Serbia, but unlike it's Balkan cousin, the variety here isn't salty, more like a clotted cream. We tended not to eat out a lot, preferring to make ourselves picnics with salad, local pickles, eggs and smoky cheese, traditional round bread, and fruits and smetana. When we ate out, we enjoyed meat. Lamb, beef and chicken are usual here - on skewers (shashlik) and from a spit (doner) are the two most common types.

Yum chill and garlic

A takeaway meal, rotisserie chicken and Uzbek wine!

Interesting flavour juice (we didn't try)

National obsession, plov

Messy looking, but delicious beefshtek and goulash

Perfectly presented cherries and berries

Beautiful produce in Uzbek market

A fine discovery was Uzbek wine- the different brands we tried varied from delicious to headache inducing, but at less than £2 a bottle, generally very enjoyable indeed! Beer was also available with mixed results. We have been so spoilt having spent a long time in the Balkans during the past few years - you really can't beat that area for premium alcoholic drinks at rock bottom prices. Ditto for the cafe culture- there isn't one in Central Asia. Tea, or choy, is king here. We got our pathetic coffee fix in the mornings with the local instant variety. 

Uzbek wine

Most streets and parks in the cities we visited were lined with mulberry trees - both red and white varieties. No-one seemed too fussed about collecting them, but we scoffed as many as we could whenever we saw easy to reach fruit.

An idea of our stops within Uzbekistan

 

Lovely Uzbek girls

Hilarious Uzbek picnic set- what more do you need besides shashliks, vodka and a machete?!

.....we're off to Kazakhstan for a short time- keep in touch!.......