STUMBLING INTO SPRING - Bucharest and Brasov, Romania

.....a world away, our last blog post from Dahab in the Sinai Desert of Egypt........

After six months in Egypt, we were well and truly ready for a change. We missed temperate climates and green expanses. We longed for some freshness in the air, and some peaceful environments. Our travel choices had broadened in the last month, with many countries dropping their Covidian restrictions and opening their borders freely. We actually had a few different alternatives for travel locations, and the option we chose was Romania. A direct flight from Cairo was on offer, as was the chance to discover a country we hadn't visited before. A quick glance at the highlights of Romania showed promise of old traditions, forests and trains galore, and we looked forward to a trip to satisfy our present travel desires.

Grounds of Peles Castle, Sinaia, Romania

To be frank, Bucharest completely astonished us, and it could NOT have been more different from Cairo where we had just arrived from!! We prefer not to research a place too much before turning up, so apart from a general overview, we really didn't have much of an idea about what to expect in Romania. We certainly didn't anticipate the extremely European and sophisticated city into which we had landed. The blue sky and Spring sun shined on the Orthodox Easter Monday holiday on which we had unknowingly arrived, happy people were out in force and street side bars and cafes were full to the brim with mostly glamorous locals chattering and enjoying life. We immediately felt a buzz, and joined in for an afternoon tipple of some local white wine, loving the atmosphere. The people watching was fascinating, especially the glittering fashions and scooter culture- all sorts of little motorised vehicles wizzed by in the specially designated lanes. 

Bucharest folk enjoying a sunny spring afternoon at a street bar

Our own enjoyment, Orthodox Easter weekend, Bucharest, Romania

Although we had booked a dinky wee studio smack bang in the middle of the city, the silence of the  world outside our window was unexpected, but most welcome. After the constant shouting, horn honking and loud music of Cairo, the lack of almost any noise was incredible, and we slept deeply. Although Bucharest was busy, somehow it also seemed calm- a good combination!!

Our apartment block, Bucharest, Romania

Typical small coffee shop, everywhere, Bucharest, Romania

Not having long to explore the city, we simply walked and discovered hole in the wall cafes, and a mish mash of European architectural styles we hoped to become more knowledgeable about as we spent time in Romania. Vine covered buildings with peeling plaster and little turrets abounded. The "Old Town" was disappointing, though, to say the least. A quick walk through the tacky bar and nightclub street was enough, although the superb book shop which lay on the periphery was a delight. The colossal Palace of the Parliament built in 1984 by long time president Nicolae Ceausescu is purportedly the heaviest building in the world, and while not the most inspiring structure, was a must see sight. Apart from this "socialism realism" styled building, there wasn't a lot of Communist inspired architecture in the areas of Bucharest in which we explored. 

Partial view of the massive Palace of the Parliament, Bucharest, Romania

Extravagant bookshop, Bucharest, Romania

Bucharest street scene

Glimpse down a lane, Bucharest, Romania

60's architecture in the Metro, Bucharest, Romania

Grand theatre and spring flowers, Bucharest, Romania

Falling asleep in a church, Bucharest, Romania

The glorious parks with horse chestnuts, plane, ash and lime trees with their bright green new growth and the leafy boulevards were the highlight of the city for us.

Sal's new favourite colour, new green!

Park statue, Bucharest, Romania

Leaving Bucharest after only a few days, we felt we would be back at some point. The main train station was a humungous bulk, and extremely organized and easy to navigate. After a cappuccino from one of the many coffee machines that dot the city, we boarded a comfortable and clean train with big windows to take us north into the green hills. 

The train to Brasov (pronounced Brashov) became misty and mountainous the further into the Carpathian Mountains we preceded. It was a generally dreek day, which unfortunately became a huge downpour as we pulled into Brasov station. Luckily, our host advised us about a bus, and we arrived at our lovely Air B and B fairly dry. 

We were slightly apprehensive that the weather may have been a little chilly for us during our first few weeks in Romania, as the country is mountainous and takes longer to warm up than other parts of Europe. In fact it was beautifully fresh, and perfect for walking in the day and snuggling at night. The small amount of rain we saw were actually welcome, after seeing none for more than six months.

Probably the most touristy part of the country, Brasov apparently cashes in on the Count Dracula legend, although to be fair we didn't see too much evidence of tacky marketing in the town itself. That seems to be saved for Bran Castle, the hyped up supposed home of the vampire himself. Bram Stoker, an Irishman, took inspiration for the setting of his novel Dracula from Slaine's Castle in Cruden Bay, Aberdeenshire (which we visited a few years ago). Vlad the Impaler, or Vlad Tepes as he's more commonly known here, was a ruler of the Wallachia region of Romania in the 1400s, and is commonly thought to be the inspiration for the blood thirsty nobleman Count Dracula. Vlad's reputed cruelty and brutal punishments gave thought that he was the figure on which Stoker based his Dracula character, but this probably exaggerated, and was never in fact stated by the author. Stoker was, however, greatly influenced and engrossed by the romantic setting and folktales of Transylvania, forever solidifying the association between Dracula and Transylvania. 

The classic Vlad portrait

With a plethora of sights to immerse ourselves in, we decided to forgo the more touristy Bran castle, and visit the sumptuous Peles Castle, a one hour train ride from Brasov. We knew we had to alight the train at Sinaia station, but were not expecting the absolutely stunning and grand town which greeted us.

Fountain, main square, Sinaia, Romania

Grand hotel, Sinaia, Romania

Beautiful views, Sinaia, Romania

Old house windows, Sinaia, Romania

Monastery named after Mount Sinai, Sinaia, Romania

Bizarre peg attraction, Sinaia, Romania

Sinaia is named after the 17th century founding monastery, which in turn is named after Mount Sinai. It expanded into a popular resort town after the completion of Prince Carol's palatial summer home, the neo-classical Peles Castle in the late 1800s. Splendid large villas overlooked grand parks, many now converted into hotels, and winter sports were obviously popular in the season with ski lifts criss-crossing the surrounding imposing snowy peaks. The refreshing climate high in the Carpathian Mountains was welcome as we climbed the hill and into the grounds of the castle. Although the actual interior was closed to the public, we were able to gape at the grounds and wander paths around the property leading to several other grandiose auxiliary buildings. There were several signs warning that we were in bear territory- apparently Romania has more than half of all the brown bears in Europe. Resting on the terrace of the castle was a wonderful opportunity to admire the many magnificent features of the building from a closer perspective. A small courtyard was open where exterior paintings and other whimsical decorations could be seen. There were also a lot of fruit bowl carvings going on. We had a long and fantastic day. We felt happy to be in a beautiful country so accessible by train!

Stunning Peles Castle, Sinaia, Romania

Outbuildings around Peles Castle, Sinaia, Romania

One of many stone fruit bowls, Peles Castle, Sinaia, Romania

Castle and gorgeous gardens, Sinaia, Romania

Wooden carving on exterior of Peles Castle, Sinaia, Romania

Eccentric paintings on outside wall, Peles Castle, Sinaia, Romania

Prince Carol I statue in the grounds of Peles Castle

The grandeur, Peles Castle, Sinaia, Romania

Interior of Brasov train station, Romania

Brasov's old town centre was charming, without hoards of tourists. The focal point was the market square surrounded by pastel coloured narrow terraced houses and the cobblestone centre dominated by the massive Gothic Black Church. We loved the twee market with entirely home-made/homegrown produce for sale. Everything from wine, bread and preserves to traditional clothing, pottery and leather. It was marvellous to see old traditions being continued and encouraged, especially with Romania now being part of the soul sucking EU. 

Bustling streets, Brasov old town, Romania

Cherry liquor shop, Brasov old town, Romania

A more quiet area, Brasov old town, Romania

Market square with Black Church, Brasov old town, Romania

Statue outside Black Church, Brasov old town, Romania

Also appealing, 60s building in Brasov, Romania

The other attraction was the dubiously dubbed narrowest lane in the world. We're not sure about that claim, as there seems to be several streets around the world vying for that title, but it certainly brings tourists to the area for the obligatory selfie. The high point of the day walking around Brasov, was strolling along a small stream and climbing a leafy hill to two towers where the views over the medieval old town were sublime.

A bit underwhelmed by the narrowest street, Brasov

More quirky architecture, Brasov, Romania

Breathtaking view from a tower, Brasov, Romania

Close up detail of tiled rooftops, Brasov, Romania

Saxons Germans came to Transylvania in the 12th century, moved there by the then King of Hungary specifically to protect the area from raids by the Ottomans and Tartars. They built fortifications around hundreds of towns, and the region is still home to dozens of preserved fortress churches. There's a special seven of these remaining that are in particularly good nick. Most of them are difficult to reach with public transport, but luckily for us, Prejmer fortified church was an easy and scenic 20 minute train ride from Brasov. After some confusion with the conductor and fellow passengers over which station we wanted to get off at, and then nearly missing the stop as the door stuck and we couldn't get out, we finally fell out of the train and onto the little path filled with flowers that lead to the main attraction. 

Path to Prejmer Fortified Church, Romania

Old houses in Prejmer village

Thick walls surrounding the Prejmer Fortified Church, Romania

Colourful spoons for sale, Prejmer Fortified Church, Romania

After more than 50 invasions mostly from the Ottomans, the Saxons built fortifications for the Prejmer church during the 15th and 16th centuries. Very thick and tall walls, combined with towers, battlements, and a barbican, kept residents safe. We were surprised at the 270 little rooms surrounding the central church, running all around the inner courtyard on several levels connected by wooden stairs. These offered shelter to villagers in case of an attack. The best part by far, and accidentally stumbled into by Rich, was the secret dark and dusty interior section of the fort walls. There were no signs or indications to this intriguing area, but it was a fascinating insight to the inner construction of the fort.

The church in the middle of the fortifications, Prejmer, Romania

Inside the fascinating innards of Prejmer Fortified Church, Romania

Little rooms surrounding the central church

Levels of rooms and stairs, Prejmer Fortified Church, Romania

Another morning was spent at Solomon Rocks, a picnic area/nature reserve on the southern outskirts of Brasov. Apart from a few locals collecting spring water in plastic bottles, we were pretty much alone as we enjoyed the beech forest with it's tall, straight trees, sunlight streaming in and birds twittering around the stream we followed. On our descent from the walk, the picnic area had filled with families BBQ-ing meat and the smells wafting around were delicious.

A rest near a little river, Solomon Rocks, Brasov, Romania

Beech forest in Spring, Solomon Rocks, Brasov, Romania

We were truly happy to be in this part of the world, and appreciated the fresh clean air, cooler climate, blossoms on trees, green forests and the clear blue skies- all things we had been craving whilst in Egypt. It was literally everything we hoped it would be, and we felt happy in the choice we had made to travel to Romania. We looked forward to exploring more of this beautiful country. 

Green parks, Bucharest, Romania

Old town of Brasov, Romania

Folk out and about in Brasov, Romania

Entrance fees (1 GBP= 5.8 RON):

Prejmer Fortified church 15 RON

Peles Castle 50 RON

........keep up with us on the next post, further into Transylvania, Sighisoara and Sibiu......

FROM THE CITY TO THE DEEP BLUE SEA - Cairo and Dahab, Egypt

......the last of our wanderings around beautiful, ancient Luxor sites.......

Those who have read a few of our blog posts know we are extremely fond of train travel (hence the blog title!). We're attracted to countries we can explore by rail, and Egypt is one of those destinations. On deciding we'd had enough of Luxor, we booked two tickets for the day train to Cairo. We had done this trip in reverse years ago, but remembered very little from that time. We did notice the ticket stated a journey time of ten hours, and thought that seemed very ambitious. But as we had decided on the 04.50am (!) train out of Luxor, we figured even if it was a few hours late, we should still arrive in the capital before dark. 

The train was filthy, painfully slow, stopped and started constantly, and jerked violently every time it braked. It was also 15.5 hours in total. But actually, the seats were very large and comfy, and we had books and music to keep us occupied, as well as the scenery out the window, and overall it wasn't as bad as it could have been. Luckily, the hostel we were staying at in Cairo was used to late arrivals, and greeted us warmly.

Entrance to the old building where our hostel was situated, Cairo

Cairo is one our favourite cities in the world, and even in our exhausted stupor upon arrival, we immediately felt positive being there. There's something about the combination of the grand yet decrepit buildings, relaxed people, pulsing traffic and busy crowds on the streets that's an immediate pick-me-up. We felt a huge difference from Luxor with the brightness of the place- it seemed lit up like a Christmas tree and almost hurt our eyes. Other differences were the extensive range of fashions in the glitzy clothing shops, the amount of women out and about, and the huge number of fast food eateries/restaurants/cafes everywhere we looked- the choice seemed endless. We could relax a bit too, and not be asked constantly what are our names, where are we from, do we want a taxi etc. Cairo was refreshingly free of touts and scammers for the most part. Most interactions were of a friendly and mellow type.

Food stall, Cairo

Islamic Cairo

Antique shop, Cairo

Sexy gear for sale, Cairo market

Waking up in Cairo streets

Wonderful light streaming into Cairo mosque

We spent a whole month in Cairo in 2020 (here and here), and were captivated by walking around the contrasting areas, and especially with the old Islamic architecture. We found so much to see we actually ran out of time! This time, a week was enough as we keenly felt the need to move on to the coast and appreciate some beach time as the weather improved. 

Orangemania, Cairo

View down backstreet in old part of Cairo

Green shop, with cat, Cairo

Colourful market, Cairo

Classic old apartment block, Cairo

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Dahab was inhabited pretty much solely by Bedouin people until the 1980s when Israelis and hippies discovered the laid-back coastal town. Situated on the Sinai peninsula, the town was still fairly quiet and low key even on our last visit in 2007. We had heard it had expanded in popularity since then, but weren't quite prepared for the explosion of tourism we discovered upon arrival. The first few days were extremely hard to adjust, as we struggled to find a place of calm (both somewhere to stay and mentally). Coming from very quiet Luxor, and very "Egyptian" Cairo, Dahab felt like another world. It didn't help that the overnight bus from Cairo was long and slow due to the many security stops, and we take longer to recover from such journeys these days!

The colours are real!, Dahab, Egypt

We were lucky to have a friend staying in a wonderful, arty camp, where we got a great deal on a cute little A-frame hut that would have been quite at home on a South East Asian beach. At one time the whole of Dahab was made up entirely of camps- basic compounds with rooms around the perimeter, a courtyard with seating in the middle and shared bathroom and kitchen facilities. Some still remain, alongside the newer villas and hotels, and are still popular with budget travellers. Ours was nice in that it catered to both foreign and Egyptian guests. Most of the latter were from Cairo, and were predominantly young professionals who were friendly and spoke English perfectly, many working for good wages in foreign IT companies. Although they didn't drink alcohol or take drugs, they did love late nights full of music, drumming, singing and dancing around the campfire. We mostly enjoyed the fun and it was great seeing them let loose a bit on holiday from work and home. On the odd occasion the noise went on into the wee hours, and we had to ask them to quieten down, they were always polite and respectful. In some ways, the camp was quite conservative, which was fine by us. One example was when a crazy German guy was thrown out for wandering around naked in the unisex bathrooms!

The resident artist at El Rayga Camp, Dahab, Egypt

Our home for two months, El Rayga Camp, Dahab, Egypt

Musical evenings, El Rayga Camp, Dahab, Egypt

Plenty of chill-out opportunities, El Rayga Camp, Dahab, Egypt

The town of Dahab is difficult to describe. It certainly had a completely different feel to everywhere in Egypt we had been. Russian expat families, Egyptian tourists, backpackers, divers, nouveau hippy wannabees and digital nomads coexisted quite harmoniously with the Egyptians who had moved to Dahab from other parts of the country and the local Bedouin people. There was quite a mix, and it somehow seemed to work. Although we weren't hugely impressed by the atmosphere of the town, it was definitely nice to be able to walk completely freely and without almost any hassle at all. People were so relaxed and used to seeing foreigners, we were no big deal, and that was a pleasant feeling! 

Shop in main street, Dahab, Egypt

Meandering along the busy seafront, Dahab, Egypt

Other advantages such as a variety of foods, cafes and restaurants we had never seen before in Egypt were welcome (although not particularly needed for our waistlines). We took advantage of the plethora of European style breakfasts and cakes, as well as our favourite Egyptian delights. The frenzied town centre with stalls selling colourful clothes and Bedouin trinkets, dive schools and fish restaurants petered out in each direction and was replaced with paths perfect for refreshing long walks and peaceful long beaches.

One of our favourite eateries, Dahab, Egypt

Selection of Egyptian drinks- surprisingly good!

The weather became properly hot in April, between 30 and 40 degrees, and we spent many a day lazing on the local beaches, mostly at the nearby Lighthouse area, on the tiny, rocky shoreline. We watched the divers hauling their gear in and out of the water, yoga freaks showing off in the most public of spots (there's always a few), and people generally enjoying cooling off in the clear water. Although Dahab beaches were hardly up to our high standards, and unfortunately often covered with dog crap from the many local strays, we found some pleasant venues to while away a few hours, and even dip our toes in the Red Sea. After so many years on Asian beaches, we are self confessed wimps when it comes to swimming in any water cooler than body temperature. 

Lighthouse beach scene, Dahab, Egypt

Got the blues, Dahab, Egypt

Creative rocks, Dahab, Egypt

Around Dahab, Egypt

After two months, our stay had to come to an end- there's only so much chilling out even we can take! Our experiment of trying Egypt as a potential winter hang out for the future had been useful and thought-provoking. We enjoyed our days in Luxor and Dahab, but we would not return to Egypt for a long-term stay in the winter months. The country is not built for chilly weather, as the cold only comes for a relatively short time, and the bitter desert evenings combined with no heating didn't suit us. 

Our destinations within Egypt

Our spirits lifted greatly during April, as day by day many countries began to remove Covidian restrictions, and travel in certain areas suddenly became an option. Although our favourite haunts in Asia were still off limits to us, there was now a greater choice of where to spend the Northern Hemisphere summer. Where we would end up was anyone's' guess!! Stay tuned to find out!!

On the beach in Dahab, Egypt

.....a new country for us up next.....Romania.......