SWEATY SPELLS AND SHITE SPIRITS- Penang, Malaysia

 ..........previously, our first, and probably only blog post about foodie matters, Penang, Malaysia......

Rickshaw driver taking a nap, Penang, Malaysia

Apologies in advance- this blog is going to be quite long. Rather than spitting it in two, we wanted to keep the theme and publish it as one post. There won't be another for a few months at least after we leave Penang. So, hopefully you will enjoy, despite the length!

Much of our explorings and day to day routine in Penang revolved around Georgetown. There is something intangible about the atmosphere in Georgetown - the mix of ancient, retro and new come together like no other place. Small lanes with tiny age-old businesses and shopkeepers can be found, the walls mouldered from the constant humidity. Haphazard footpaths are the norm and scattered pieces of street art, some already faded in the sun, are around every corner. Old men sleep in their cycle rickshaws, people push carts around the streets selling goods, silent bicycles whirl by, and minuscule red shrines can be seen with mini bearded Gods inside. There is an old fashioned sheen to everything that is highly appealing to us.

Contrasting tile styles, Georgetown, Penang

Kim Novak, for all your children's school uniform needs. Random

Lovely yellow mosque entrance, Georgetown, Penang

Little laneway shrine, Georgetown, Penang

Love the old signs, Georgetown, Penang

Close to the Noble Hotel is Little India. Mostly Tamil in population, it is full of the magnificent smells of wafting Indian food and incense offerings, and the pulse of often ear-splitting Hindi pop. Add in the flower sellers with their fabulous array of beautifully coloured offerings, and the fashion shops with Indian-styled outfits in every hue imaginable, Little India is a fantastic place for a wander.

Setting up shop, Little India, Penang

Little India colour, Penang

Also in the Georgetown mix is Antarabangsa Bar. A unique place in Malaysia with cheap alcoholic drinks and back street seating, this bar is extremely popular with locals and visitors alike. Many a night was spent here with good company (and many nights with rubbish conversation!), and Sal reluctantly weaned herself off Balkan rakia, and onto the crappy local rice wine. We did sorely miss the good quality beer and spirits from the Balkans. But nothing is ever 100% perfect, and we dealt with it!

A quiet afternoon at Antarabangsa Bar, Penang, Malaysia

While not as exotic as Little India, the colonial area of Georgetown is of interest for it's grand European-style buildings, mostly now either turned into governmental offices, fancy eateries or hotels. The British East India Company, represented by Francis Light, negotiated to be given Penang island in return for British military aid and protection in the late 1770s (hence the name Georgetown, named after George III.). Especially pleasant in the colonial area is sunset on the esplanade near Fort Cornwallis, where locals gather to enjoy the cool sea breezes.

Esplanade, Penang, Malaysia

Colonial Town Hall, Penang, Malaysia

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Malaysia is known for it's variety and tolerance when it comes to religion, and Penang island, being so compact seems an intense microcosmos of that diversity. The main faiths in Penang reflect the biggest ethnic groups- Malays, Chinese and Indians. 

So many prayer wish topics, Buddhist Temple Penang

Beautiful room, Buddhist Temple, Penang

Kapitan Keling Mosque, representing Islam, is a glorious white domed building in central Georgetown, down the road from the more modest Lebuh Aceh Mosque, built by the Acehnese in the 19th century and resembling a lighthouse. Tanjung Bungah's Masjid Terapung juts out magnificently into the sea in the north of the island. Interesting fact- all Malaysian Malay people are Muslim by law.

Kapitan Keling Mosque at dusk, Penang, Malaysia

The unusual Aceh Mosque, Penang

Tanjung Bungah's Masjid Terapung, Penang

The Tamil population's Hindi temples stand out for their vibrant colours and busy paint work. When we travelled in India, the Tamil temples of southern India were our least favourite buildings- they just all seemed a bit too over the top and Disney-like. Here, however, somehow they balance out the other religious buildings and fit in perfectly.

A faithful's mark on each step leading to the hilltop temple, Penang, Malaysia

Siva with his trident, Waterfall Temple, Penang, Malaysia

View from the top of Waterfall Hindu Temple, Penang

The Chinese have a number of faiths represented all over Penang- Taoist, Buddhist, Christian, as well as their own kind of folk religion. Particularly noticeable around Georgetown are the numerous secret little shrines down side streets and under trees. 

Tiny red shrine, Georgetown, Penang, Malaysia

Colourful Chinese incense sticks, Penang, Malaysia

Neo-classical style St George's Anglican Church, Penang, Malaysia

Then there's the less common assemblies- Baptists, Catholics, Sai Baba's followers, Sikhs, Evangelicals and many others. These religious groups are mostly represented with substantial buildings indicating large followings.

All the main languages of Penang on one Sai Baba sign

Would love to know what goes inside this one

For us, though, the Buddhist community has the most evocative and spectacular temples. Burma Road is a treasure trove of dramatic and dazzling temples serving the mostly Thai and Burmese worshippers. Kek Lok Si temple in Air Itam, as gaudy as it may be construed, must be the height of kitsch Buddhist Chinese temple architecture. Last time we visited it was during Chinese New Year celebration, and the sight of the temple lit up up like a Christmas tree was absolutely astonishing. 

Lucky tortoises in the temple grounds, Penang

Sitting Buddha, Burmese Buddhist Temple, Penang

 Golden stupa, Burmese Temple, Penang

Giant statue inside Buddhist Temple, Penang

Representations of how different countries portray Lord Buddha

It could only be the exterior of the local Thai Buddhist Temple, Penang

Looking out over the city, Kek Lok Si Temple, Penang

Rows of Buddha tiles, Kek Lok Si Temple, Penang

Pagoda, Kek Lok Si Temple, Penang

Funny, colourful Buddha, Kek Lok Si Temple, Penang

That the many religions of Penang, and Malaysia, co-exist amicably is a wonderful example of harmony and peace.

Warm light , Buddhist temple, Penang

Buddhas in the garden, Penang, Malaysia

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Other days were spent in various contrasting parts of Penang island. The beaches in the north weren't spectacular, but a pleasant place to read a book in the shade, enjoy the constant ocean breeze and feel some sand between our toes. It had been about a year since we had been at the sea, and we looked forward to returning. 

Happy to be on the sand, Tanjung Bungah, Penang

Tanjung Bungah Beach, Penang

Small waterway, Tanjung Bungah, Penang

A walk up Penang Hill was not tempting due to the thick air and high temperature. We have done it before, once, and it nearly killed us! The Botanic Gardens was a fabulous alternative. The gardens are set into the thick jungle of the hill, and are a wonderful spacious place to join the locals for some exercise. Early in the morning, strollers take advantage of the cooler temperatures and walk the circuit of the gardens. For us, a slower stroll was required at first to spot the many tropical plants and dazzling setting, before a more speedy couple of laps. Colossal trees with massive seed pods, exotic flowers, vines and giant leaves stand on manicured lawns, and the air is perfumed and alive with the sounds of insects, birds and monkeys.

Stunning tropical flower, Botanic gardens, Penang, Malaysia

Delicate fungi, Botanic gardens, Penang, Malaysia

Blue tounged monitor lizard, Botanic gardens, Penang, Malaysia

Various markets visits were a must. The Hin Bus Depot market was a new one for us. A bit of a hipster hangout, this is a lovely place to linger on a Sunday, listen to DJs play some 80's music, browse the second-hand clothes and vintage junk, and people-watch the trendy and alternative population of Penang. The Thieves Market is a completely different scene, with everyday items such as tools and electronic goods being sold alongside second-hand clothes and antiques of a sort. Even early in the morning the crowds and heat, not to mention the long walk to get there, made for a draining experience.

Retro junk for sale, Hin Bus Depot Market, Penang

Food area at Hin Bus Depot Market, Penang

Phone interest, Penang, Malaysia

One of the pleasures of arriving and departing Penang island, has always been the big old ferry, cars on the bottom and passengers up top, slowly chugging it's way from Butterworth to Georgetown and back. The fresh air and views from every direction of the open sided vessel was an agreeable way to move between the mainland and Penang. Unfortunately, this experience has now been replaced with the awful, cramped old Langkawi ferries. With no outside area, everyone is now packed inside with freezing cold AC, no room for luggage and no hope of escape should the thing go down in the sea. As we left Penang, we were not impressed and hoped this situation would be temporary. 

Poor old ferry in the dock, Penang, Malaysia

Although we hadn't at all tired of Penang, a special place further north called to us. Now that Covidian entry requirements in Thailand had been abandoned, we planned a couple of months in Ko Fruitopia, our healing place, which we had previously visited most years around this time. We had been shut out for too long, and felt the need to return. We for sure will be back in Penang, though- it's such a fantastic place to hang out, with really good vibes and heaps to do and see (and eat!). Stay tuned............

A wee rest climbing some temple steps in the midday heat, Penang

Made it to the top, Sal happy in Penang

.......onto our beloved Ko Fruitopia for the first time in more than 3 years........