MAGIC OF THE FAR SIDE - Karakol, Kyrgyzstan

.....meanders along the southern coast of Issyk Kol......

Sal amongst the flowers, around Karakol

We visited Karakol during our first travels to Kyrgyzstan, and much of what we saw and experienced on this current trip was similar to back then. It's kind of why we returned, because we loved it so much the first time around. Without wanting to repeat ourselves, we also wanted to include some new experiences on this post.  Please look at our old blogs if you're interested in around Karakol town, or trips out from Karakol. There is a lot of information about transport, and details and background of places and events. And of course, lots of Richard's lovely photos.

Karakol's wooden Orthodox Cathedral

Interesting design of the wooden Dungan mosque in Karakol

We were pleased to find KBH Hostel, one of our favourite guesthouses in the region, remained pretty much as we remembered. A fantastic place to meet other travellers, it was known as the place for hikers to find new friends for walking the many treks around the Karakol valleys. Although we were travelling at a much slower pace than most of the other guests, we still greatly enjoyed the chin wags and positives vibes. 

Karakol town was brilliant for food, and we varied between trying local dishes in the nearby market, and purchasing goods from the supermarkets and cooking for ourselves in the hostel kitchen. There a few "specialities" from the Karakol region. Ganfan (rice with stir fried beef and vegetables), and ashlan-fu (cold, spicy noodle soup with herbs and vinegar) are dishes typical of the local Muslim Dungan people and come with the superb chilli accompaniment, laza.

Ganfan with laza and kompot (juice)

Cold ashlan-fu noodles

An attractive town surrounded by mountains, Karakol's real beauty lay a short distance away in the beautiful nature of the valleys and lakes. We spent many a day on short walks in gorgeous areas, following gushing rivers and sharing the dusty paths with sheep and horses. Some days we caught a bus as far up a valley as we could and walked in different directions, loving the rural countryside and being so ensconced in nature. As we stayed in Karakol, the days became warmer, and the snow on the mountains started to melt. The weather was unpredictable- most days sunny and warm, but also some heavy rain, extreme wind and clouds. 

A walk along the Karakol River 

Pausing at a lovely spot, around Karakol

Rural scenes, around Karakol

Last of the snow melting on the Karakol mountains

Delicate flower on a valley walk

Crossing a bridge, Arashan Valley

Ramshackle rest spot, Arashan Valley

What a poser, Ak Suu Valley

Boys on horses, Ak Suu Valley

Beautiful river rest spot, Ak Suu Valley

A slightly scary crossing, Arashan Valley

Village scene, around Karakol

A trip to Pristan, a ex-Soviet naval base on the shores of Issyk Kol was an easy trundle on a local marshrutka. Some of the abandoned buildings from wealthier times were now completely open, and we were free to explore, just having to mind the huge holes in the floors and take our chances on aging stairs and ceilings. The old theatre was the best, with the entire entertainment space now accessible, but so dark, taking pictures of the amazing atmospheric location was difficult. Wandering around the quaint village we watched the ducks and a local guy fishing, and admired the productive backyards with their vegie patches and small orchards. Lastly, we walked to the "beach", a patch of grass and some sand on the lake, where a handful of brave youngsters were swimming. We can imagine during the summer, this place would be packed and noisy, but maybe quite pleasant. 

Dark and abandoned theatre, Pristan

Decrepit columns, Pristan

Front room completely open for poking around, Pristan

Once imposing exterior of old theatre, Pristan

Bar or disco?

Sheep on Pristan hillside

Bucolic village scene, Pristan

Typical Pristan house

Tucked away amongst the creepers, Pristan house

Pristan beach, near Karakol

Funny short video of ducks trying to swim against the current in Pristan

Karakol town had a charming personality, and it was pleasant to amble through different streets visiting the few sights and seeing how people lived in such a far flung town. The highlight of Karakol town was the handsome old Russian "gingerbread" houses, with their ornate wooden exteriors.

Loving the blue shutters, old Russian house in Karakol

This one needed a bit of love, Karakol

Berries, Karakol

This beauty was next door to our hostel, Karakol

Many of the old Russian houses had these porches, Karakol

Our way to Karakol along Issyk Kol's southern route

Flowers galore, landscape around Karakol

As previously talked about, Richard was extremely enamoured with the Sunday animal market in Karakol. On our last visit, we dropped in twice- the chilly September mornings creating a fantastic atmosphere. This time, Rich again visited twice- once with new friends from the hostel and once solo. Being summer, the light and ambience was not quite as wonderful as before, but he still enjoyed taking pictures, drinking shots of early morning vodka, and hanging out with some local guys who spoke English. We are creating a special animal market blog, so there will be pictures galore there........

Frisky horses for sale, Karakol animal market

Another done deal, Karakol animal market

........next up, a special report on Kyrgyzstan's animal markets.......