BIG HUGS AND SILLY HATS - Issyk-Kol, Kyrgyzstan

 .......previously, our wanderings in Kyrgyzstan's capital Bishkek, and Tokmok.............

Rich getting into the Kyrgyz spirit!

We had sussed out the leaving area for the marshrutka from Tokmok to Issyk-Kol, a large lake in the east of Kyrgyzstan. As we boarded we were relieved to see two seats together, and noticed an Indian couple sitting in the back. There is a fair population of South Asians living in Central Asia, especially Kyrgyzstan, due to the popularity of studying at the many universities there. It is a much cheaper way for them to complete their education than travelling to the "West". Luckily, the vehicle filled up quickly, and we were on our way. Almost immediately, the three respectable-looking middle aged women on the back seat broke out their bottle of vodka, and shared it with Rich, who was sitting next to them. By the end of the trip, there were a lot of red cheeks in the bus! We had been apprehensive about the journey, as we remembered the crazy drivers from our last trip, when several times we thought we might die at the hands of the reckless and speeding driver. Things had changed in the ensuing few years, however, and now speed cameras and heavy fines applied to anyone caught speeding, and the threat of punishment seemed to be an effective deterrent. As it was, the driver was steady and safe, and we only had one stop for wees/drinks on the 2 hour journey. 

The best experience of our trip to Kyrgyzstan six years previously had been our stay with a lovely family in the untouristy village of Kara Koo on the southern shores of Issky-Kol. We wrote an entire blog post dedicated to the stay back then. What we didn't realize now, was that the family had moved to Bishkek to live for most of the year, due to Asel's work, and only arrived to stay back in their village house during the summer months. However, upon receiving a message that we would be arriving the following day, they quickly packed up their belongings and came to Kara Koo to open their home early, especially for us. Of course, we were terribly embarrassed they had made such a huge effort for us, and wondered why they hadn't told us- we could easily have come later. They just really wanted to see us. We had been their first visitors when they opened their home to guests, and although they had had a steady stream of intrepid travellers staying before the Covidian BS, they insisted we had been their favourites!

They met us off the bus, and Nargiza ran to us to give us big hugs. She quickly disappeared into the shops, emerging with bags full of food and we set off for home. The kids also gave us enthusiastic hugs- the two older ones we remembered, and the two little ones were new arrivals to the family. So cute and not a word of English. Asel spoke a little, although not for such a long time, and we got by. They all spent hours preparing the house, mostly for us probably, vacuuming, tidying, cleaning and cooking an instant feast. We remembered what amazing food we had experienced in the house before, and even with all the kids, Nargiza still prepared some delectable meals. So sweet, she asked us what foods we would like. Rich, as usual, said he loved anything with potatoes and for the next few days we enjoyed a potato fest, including an awesome breakfast of fried potatoes, two huge piles of them! 

Number two son, and view from the village house, Kara Koo, Issyk Kol

One of the fabulous concoctions from Nargiza's kitchen

The simple kitchen

Our potato themed breakfast, yum!

The village house was absolutely freezing at night, and we were slightly concerned about keeping warm. However, after a hot meal and tea, and with our new purchases of thick jackets from Bishkek, and the heavy quilts on the beds, we were super snug and slept like babies.

Piles of quilts in our room in  Kara Koo, Issyk Kol

We spent our few days there relaxing with the family, walking in the village and out into the hills to enjoy the viewpoints of the mountains which were much more dramatic on this visit. Around every corner was another stunning view with the snow capped mountains peeking through.

Taking a breather, walking around  Kara Koo, Issyk Kol

Stunning view of the surrounding mountains,  Kara Koo, Issyk Kol

Village graveyard,  Kara Koo, Issyk Kol

Village kid,  Kara Koo, Issyk Kol

Typical village home,  Kara Koo, Issyk Kol

Mending the fence, Kara Koo, Issyk Kol

Rich with mountain backdrop,  Kara Koo, Issyk Kol

Village view,  Kara Koo, Issyk Kol

Light streaming into a barn,  Kara Koo, Issyk Kol

Back street of Kara Koo, Issyk Kol

On our eventual departure the family refused to take any money for our stay- we had to press the cash into their hands and insist. They had even bought us gifts of a kalpak (tall white Kyrgyz hat) for Rich and a scarf for Sal. With Nagiza in tears, we left, promising to return again one day. 

Lovely daughter of the family, Kara Koo, Issyk Kol

Little village donkey, Kara Koo, Issyk Kol

Photogenic old truck, Kara Koo, Issyk Kol

Colourful blooms, Kara Koo, Issyk Kol

A vague idea to stay in a yurt on the lake was next on the agenda, although we quickly changed our minds when we arrived in Tong, another tiny village on the south side of Issyk Kol. It was so early in the season, there were no tourists around and the atmosphere was decidedly dead. The yurts in the beach camps looked so pathetic, unwelcoming and ungenuine- nothing like the yurts we had seen in the wild valleys in other parts of Kyrgyzstan. Instead, Rich's intuition led us to a wonderful place in the village with brand new rooms overlooking their orchard, Issyk Kol and the mountains, hosted by an enthusiastic family. As we had turned up out of the blue, they immediately began rushing around around making beds, turning on the hot water, bringing us chairs and table to enjoy the view from the balcony. Pot plants appeared and eventually the WIFI was switched on, and we were very happy we had found such a agreeable spot. We had access to a tiny kitchen downstairs, and we enjoyed a break from the huge meals of Kara Koo, and ate simply in the evenings. 

View from our balcony, Tong, Issyk Kol

Set up just for us, Tong, Issyk Kol

Evening pastime, Tong, Issyk Kol

The weather was hazy and drizzly at times during our few days in Tong, and the lake was not at it's most attractive. Instead we explored the inland hills and discovered a gorgeous valley view, complete with horses, sheep and friendly shepherds.

Rich at the "beach", Tong, Issyk Kol

Looking down on a scenic valley, Tong, Issyk Kol

Gorgeous views, Tong, Issyk Kol

We looked forward to following up our modest stays on the southern shore of Issyk Kol, with a visit to Karakol, a beautiful place with fond memories for us. 

Our route along Issyk Kol's southern route

Rich admiring the view,  Kara Koo, Issyk Kol

.........next up, Karakol town, on the far flung eastern shore of Issyk Kol.............