LOCAL BREWS AND HEAVENLY VIEWS - Korce and Sarande, Albania

.....our last blog post where we travelled through North Macedonia............

Rich getting artistic, Martyr's Cemetery, Korce, Albania

Our travel destinations from the start of March 2021 put into perspective

We had quite a journey ahead of us from Lake Ohrid in the south of North Macedonia, to Sarande, on the far southern coast of Albania. Not being ones to rush, but also keen to arrive at our destination, we chose to break the journey into two large chunks. 

Our lift south from Ohrid, took us along some deserted and breath-taking parts of Lake Ohrid. After a few "beach holiday" type areas, the country ended with a quaint village and a completely empty border crossing. Interestingly, leaving North Macedonia and entering Albania, not only did we not have to exit the car, but the guards didn't even ask to see our faces!

We felt an instant sense of relief crossing the border, and the immediate visual differences were marked. Most pronounced contrasts were the improved state of the roads and the proliferation of produce gardens; also noticeable were the bunkers everywhere and many more cafes! When we got out at Pogradec, the Albanian town also on Lake Ohrid, we felt more relaxed, and were happy to see more smiles and curious looks and no English! We directly jumped into a furgon (minibus) for the short commute to Korce, and felt immensely happy. 

Korce had an easy relaxed vibe, which we must have picked up on as we simply walked into a hotel near the bus station and took a posh-ish room for two nights- something we never do!

It wasn't a big town, but the couple of days we had allocated to explore it were perfect. Of course, there were cafe/pedestrian areas where the town's glitterati hung out, including one sun-bathed cobblestoned square in the centre of a drastically restored 15th century Ottoman precinct. Most of the shops here were closed when we visited, but it looked like they may have been trying to revive some arts and crafts businesses in trendy, renovated historic buildings. 

Newly renovated part of Korce, Albania

Theatre façade, Korce, Albania

Unique yellow corner building in Korce, Albania

The dominant building in Korce was the Resurrection Cathedral, interesting built by the Greeks in 1995, and replaced an Orthodox church destroyed during Communist times. It's design is unusual- it's described as Byzantine revival, and we've never seen a church style like this in the Balkans. The very local looking deities and figures portrayed on the interior walls were interesting.

Resurrection Cathedral, Korce, Albania

Unusual exterior of Resurrection Cathedral, Korce, Albania

Sal with Mary, Resurrection Cathedral, Korce, Albania

Local-looking saint, Resurrection Cathedral, Korce, Albania

After walking through an old part of Korce, with quiet back streets, ordinary houses and people going about their daily lives, we became lost on a goat track heading up a hill, but eventually arrived at the magnificently positioned Martyr's Cemetery on a hill overlooking the entirety of Korce. The actual resting places were not exactly well looked after, but the perspective gained on the size and position of Korce in a green valley surrounded by huge mountains was spectacular. 

Corner shop, Korce, Albania

Nice old wall, Korce, Albania

Gate in back streets, Korce, Albania

Sal with city in background, Korce, Albania

We finished the day with a visit to Birra Korce, the biggest brewery in Albania. At the extremely pleasant restaurant there, where we sat under a blossom tree, had a few Korce Beers straight from the source, and whiled away the afternoon chatting in the gentle sun. 

Beers under a blossom, Korce, Albania

Korce Beer, the largest brewery in Albania

There was intense, but amusing communication problems about catching an onward bus to Sarande. At the bus station, all the bus drivers in the vicinity came to try to help us, and all gathered around speaking only Albanian. A young passer-by was roped in to translate, and he took his job very seriously. Listening carefully to the men, he then earnestly and clearly translated what they had said into English directly into Richard's ear. Unfortunately, we still had to enlist the help of the friendly English-speaking receptionist from the hotel. After a simple phone call, she informed us there was a bus heading south the following morning at 6am, and from there we could connect to Sarande. Seemingly complicated travel arrangements usually turn out to be straightforward and easy in this part of the world, and it was certainly to be the case on this occasion. 

Not only was the bus trip straight forward, it was one of the most stunning journeys we've yet had in the Balkans. Sal drugged herself up for the windy roads and missed the first part of it, but Rich recalls the changing landscapes as we moved further south. Expansive vistas across wooded valleys looked to snow capped mountains in the distance. Forests of oak trees gave way to pines as we rose higher, then farmlands with hazel woods, vineyards and plenty of bee hives. The road followed beautiful clear blue rivers and passed through old world villages, with white and bright red blossoms dotting the countryside. Sheep and goat herds crossed the roads in front to the bus, and cows stood in fields of bright yellow flowers. We could see and feel the changing climate with much more green and flowers than further north where we had travelled from. Spring!!!!

Unbelievable scenery between Korce and Sarande, Albania

Yay, finally warming up! Albania

A short video of the bus ride

A bus was waiting in Gjirokaster for the last hour of our long trip. We were extremely happy to arrive back into Sarande, as our memories of our warm and pleasant stay here last autumn were still strong. Scoring the same incredible sea-front apartment as last year, we looked forward to a couple of months coming out of hibernation. 

After a few weeks, the glorious weather began in earnest, and we took the opportunity to spend as much time out and about as we could. 

Wildflowers, Sarande, Albania

Some delightful days out involved bush-bashing around stunning areas of coast in the vicinity of Sarande. We encountered rough and wonky goat tracks along the rocks, with the odd snake here and there and plenty of thorny bushes. But the scenery was gorgeous, with the foliage of the golden coloured shrubs contrasting with the amazing blue of the sea. We discovered more secret and not-so-secret coves along the way. In some remote areas of the walks, we stumbled upon a few of the huge abandoned bunkers that dot the country's coastline. Some were filled with rubbish and graffiti, others were used practically to keep cattle in. 

A man and his sheep on a goat track

Yep, posing again!

One of countless bunkers in the area

Nearly deserted, Pasqyrave Beach

Resting along the goat track, up the hill from Pasqyrave Beach

These colours are real! Up the hill from Pasqyrave Beach

Another morning was spent slogging up a hill through some low-rise residential parts of Sarande we had never previously known existed, to a place where the houses gave way to rocks and goats, as a stony path continued up the valley to who knows where. Yet another involved an exploratory walk along the canals in the flat agricultural plains outside Sarande town. The small market gardens with upcoming yummy produce and olive groves were especially pleasing to see.

A cow in a yellow field, outside Sarande, Albania

We loved Ksamil last Autumn, and this time we were able to explore even more of the coast. The gorgeous blue sky, warm sun and sparkly clear waters were inviting as we walked from "The Last Bay" to the other end of Ksamil, and on the more remote beaches we were the only souls there. Other days we chose our favourite busier beaches and hung out in the clean sand and sea for the day, swimming and feeling happy.

Looking out to Corfu, Ksamil, Albania

The Last Bay, Ksamil, Albania

Unused life guard tower, Ksamil, Albania

The Sarande promenade, a building site on our last visit, was hastily finished in April with an opening occurring as the last tiles were laid and showers were still being installed on the beachfront. The town beach was not as wonderful as the shore further down the coast at Ksamil, and although it was only about 10 steps away from our building, we rarely hung out there. The promenade was, however, brilliant for people watching and ambling, with Albanians and tourists alike embarking on their "xhiro" (stroll) at around 6pm every evening. 

Other days we were very happy to sit on our enormous balcony, and read, exercise, listen to podcasts and enjoy the stunning view. We loved having our own kitchen to cook, and having no particular agenda. For more about what we've done around Sarande, this blog post from last November is more comprehensive. 

Food porn pics, you either love them or you hate them!! Typical taverna meal, Sarande, Albania

Big moon rising, view from our balcony, Sarande, Albania

We even partook in a few social evenings, including dinner dates with new mates and visiting a couple of the local bars, patronized by a mix of mostly American ex-pats and locals. Since we've been in the Balkans, we've tried to mix up our stays between hostels and private accommodation, as to balance our social experiences with some more personal time. To be honest, we really missed the Asian backpacker scene, and mixing with other travellers rather than ex-pats. 

After two months of blissing out in Sarande, the familiar feeling of itchy feet began again (must get that athlete's foot seen to), and we said goodbye to to our little piece of paradise in southern Albania. The urge to visit new parts was strong................

Another professional style selfie!

* Just a note about language. As we don't have certain unique Albanian letters on our keyboard, there are many inaccuracies with Albanian words, and we hope any Albanians reading will forgive us!

..........next up, a visit to the north of Albania...........