SPOMENIK HUNTING IN SERBIA - Šumadija, Central Serbia

......previously our "summer beach holiday" in Herceg Novi, Montenegro......

There's a website Sal's become somewhat obsessed with ever since we started to travel in the Balkans. It's called Spomenik Database, and seems to be the work of one dedicated individual to research and record as many of the spomeniks in former Yugoslavian countries as humanly possible in one lifetime. What is a spomenik, you may ask?

Magnificent Kosmaj spomenik, Šumadija, Serbia

The word "spomenik" is Serbian-Croat for monument, and most were built during the time of Tito's Yugoslavia between the 1950s and the 1990s. Usually they remember a significant point during World War II, either an atrocity committed by the Axis occupiers or an act of fighting back by Tito's Partisan Army. The construction of such important memorials served to help a new generation remember the struggle that occurred during WWII and create an optimism about the future. The spomenik database includes many retro photos from the time of building and heyday of visitors, which is an amazing look back into recent history. Found all over Croatia, Slovenia, Montenegro, Macedonia, and Bosnia and Hercegovina, we used our month or so in Serbia to search out some of the more interesting specimens.

We always joke that no-one can beat the Soviets when it comes to giant, extravagant war memorials- we have visited many in Central Asia and Caucus countries, and the power and drama evoked from these sites is awe-inspiring. But we have come to appreciate the more abstract Yugoslavian style, which is described as streamlined modernist, Yugoslavian Brutalist or modern futurism. Usually designs were submitted in a competition, considered by a committee and chosen for their composition and impact. Nowadays, spomeniks are of varying conditions- many are neglected and falling apart, others have been kept beautifully and respectfully.

Due to our change of plans after Sal's unexpected journey from Serbia to Melbourne and back, we were looking for something stress free that wouldn't take too much planning to "fill in" the rest of our time in the Balkans before we returned to South East Asia. It seemed the perfect time for some spomenik hunting.

As we are aware that most people will not find the subject as enthralling as Sal, we have chosen to create a more general overview of our month or so in the Šumadija region of central Serbia. This includes our adventures taking buses, hiking up hills, and visiting random towns in order to seek out some interesting monuments. The wonderful thing with spomenik hunting is that it always leads to something else. We used it as a starting point for the day, and inevitably ended up discovering some lovely woods, an old church, a cute café in a small village, or an extravagant park. And, of course, it was a brilliant way to learn more about the region's history and how lives were devastated and now remembered. 

A brief overview of our favorite spomeniks, as visited during this trip:

Kosmaj- A really atheistically pleasing one, this favorite spomenik of ours was built in the 1970s and commemorates those fighters of the Kosmaj regiment area who died during WWII. The memorial was situated upon a hill in a reasonably well used park, with walking trails through peaceful beech forests. After admiring the quite beautiful spikey-shaped erection, we continued on to have a pleasant day. Hearing some singing during our walk in the woods, we were delighted to come upon a church with a Sunday service and sat with our picnic lunch and listened to the hymns in the church grounds. An added bonus to the day was the currently free transport system around our base, Mladenovac, which afforded us a complimentary day trip.

Looking up at Kosmaj spomenik, Šumadija, Serbia

Such a cute shape! Kosmaj spomenik, Šumadija, Serbia

Musical church in the grounds of Kosmaj spomenik, Šumadija

Some of the gorgeous forests around Kosmaj, Šumadija

Slobodište Memorial Complex in Kruševac- On the edge of Kruševac, this park featured an outdoor walk-through installation of various stone spomeniks designed around grassy mounds and slopes to take the visitor on a journey through the site of a terrible tragedy. Between 1941 and 1944, Kruševac was occupied and a camp was established by the Nazis to hold hundreds of citizens, mostly civilians. These people were tortured and killed, often in retaliation against Partisan rebel fighter's attacks on the enemy. This culminated in mass executions, and on the worst day in 1943, 575 innocent civilians were killed, including Roma people and the elderly. The spomenik area was designed by Bogdan Bogdanović (of the incredible Mostar Partisan Memorial Cemetery fame) and built between 1960 and 1965. Luckily, the Yugoslavian War did not greatly effect this area, and the shrines are very well preserved. 

Walking between commemorative stones, Kruševac, Serbia

Giant circle at the entrance of Slobodište Park, Kruševac, Serbia

We were particularly moved by the research and educational center, which was built some years later, and serves as a harsh and sad reminder of what people can inflict on each other during times of war. The fact that this building lay open with no one supervising, and had not been vandalized or trashed as would have happened in certain other countries, is perhaps a testament to the respect Serbs have for their history. 

Kruševac locals killed during World War II

As well as remembering the tragedy, the site boasted superb parkland, complete with squirrels running amok, as well as a spot randomly featuring mini churches of Serbia.

One of a series of miniature churches, Kruševac, Serbia

Šumarice Memorial Park in Kragujevac- We were surprised at the huge scope of this landscaped park, on the edge of town. About 340 hectares in total, the design idea was that the park as a whole was to be the memorial, rather than just the spomeniks themselves. The entire area was chock full of history, and we spent an entire morning exploring. The main monument called Interrupted Flight was built in 1963 to commemorate another shocking number of civilians massacred here during World War II. Enraged by the killings of German soldiers by Tito's partisans, the Nazis carried out mass murders of around 2,300 innocent people during this time, including up to 300 children and their teachers. Faces faintly seen on the sides of the monolith represented the school children. We were glad to see that the park and spomeniks were in excellent condition, a respected and honored site, with many commemorative events having been held there over the years. As well as Interrupted Flight there were many other sculptures scattered around the park, remembering so many tragic incidents. 

The Interrupted Flight monument, Šumarice Memorial Park, Kragujevac, Serbia

Faces in the rock representing those lives lost, Šumarice Memorial Park, Kragujevac

Beautiful setting, The Interrupted Flight monument, Šumarice Memorial Park

Another monument representing locals who died from surrounding villages, Šumarice

The setting became almost rural as we walked further away from the center, and we discovered forests, fields of flowers (complete with a deer and tortoise sightings) and eventually a reservoir with fisherman and sun bathers. 

Tortoise nearly hiding, Šumarice Memorial Park

Walking in the lovely nature reserve, Šumarice

Mausoleum of Struggle and Victory in Čačak- Another Bogdan Bogdanović creation, this megaron was built between 1976 and 1980, and commemorates the deaths of Partisan fighters during the liberation of Čačak from Nazis in World War II. There was a great deal of scandal around the decision to choose the rather famous Bogdanović's design over a local architect's, with accusations of corruption and the decision favoring Belgrade elites over local artists. A group of international students filming at the monument during our visit gave us a quick rundown of what they had learnt from locals, whose opinions about the memorial structure apparently varied widely. Although massive and creating a feeling of power, the spomenik was quite graffitied and uncared for, and failed to give us any feeling of emotion as some of the other spomeniks had. 

Showing the scale of enormous Čačak Mausoleum, Serbia

Every post was different, interior, Čačak Mausoleum, Serbia

Mausoleum at Čačak, Šumadija, Serbia

Kadinjača Memorial Complex- By far the grandest spomenik complex we visited on this trip, this series of huge white monoliths commemorated the lead up to and the battle against German forces during the Battle of Kadinjača in 1941. Immediately apparent from the moment we got off the bus at the entrance was the excellent condition this place was in comparative to many other spomenik sites we had visited. Although mid-morning on a weekday, there were several other visitors, and maintenance men were working on improvements. The setting high on a hillside overlooking the mountains outside Užice was breathtaking, and the giant geometric shapes, some incorporating faint faces, were photogenic against the green backdrop of small farms growing raspberries. Built very early on in 1952 and at great expense, the site was added to over the years. After admiring the spectacle, we walked down to the museum, an extensive and grim look at not only the World War II fighting, but also the suffering throughout the NATO bombings. We were almost glad there was no information in English- the photos were enough to convey the adversity and pain.

Impressive structure symbolizing a bullet hole, Kadinjača

Part of the vast complex at Kadinjača, Šumadija, Serbia

Amazing shapes and design at the Kadinjača complex, Šumadija, Serbia

Another day saw us taking a bus an hour from town into the green countryside in search of what looked like a less grand spomenik in the photos we had seen. After arriving in the tiny village and strolling about for sometime, we couldn't find the memorial, locals not seeming to have a clue what we were on about. As per the pattern that had emerged, we were amused and happy the spomenik hunting had led us to this random rural setting, and we were more than satisfied to spend the afternoon wandering around the village, seeing the biggest plums ever in an orchard and savoring a sausage sandwich in the friendly wee local café!

A characterful house in the random Šumadija village we ended up in

Biggest plums we had ever seen, random village, Šumadija, Serbia

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The towns we based ourselves in- Kragujevac, Čačak and particularly Kruševac and Užice, were such a pleasure to hang out in after our day trips. We wandered around in a happy heat haze, sometimes dodging summer showers, and doing our best to rise early to experience cooler temperatures. The usual Balkan town attractions of lovely, shady parks and forest walks, quaint churches, stately public squares and umbrellaed cafes kept us more than entertained. We headed to as many early morning flea markets (buvljak) as we could find and sought out pools and river beaches where we could to cool down during the hot summer weather.

Wall art, Čačak, Serbia

Church in a graveyard, Kruševac, Serbia

Inside Kruševac church, Serbia

Prince Lazar in a Kruševac park, Serbia

Cutie squirrel spotted in a tree, Kruševac, Serbia

Our favourite town, Užice, Serbia

Gotta love the sentiment, Užice, Serbia

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Our other endeavor during our time in the Šumadija area of Serbia was visiting spa towns. Having absolutely loved Niška Banja when we visited last year, we were keen to see if other spa towns were quite as enjoyable. Similar to the sanatorium system in former Soviet countries, socialist Yugoslavia also had a scheme entitling people to medical treatment and a rest at various spa towns around the country. Wonderfully, the elderly of Serbia today are still given access to free treatments in these places. 

Vrnjačka Banja was quite a bit grander than we had expected. The town focused around a central canal, which was lined with a boulevard of majestic old trees. Numerous medical facilities had been established over the years upon the various mineral springs, all with different healing benefits. The most ancient of these springs were discovered during Roman times, but most were developed from the late 1800s through to the 1930s. During this time Vrnjačka Banja became an enormously popular place for the sick to come to heal and recover in hot mineral spas. It was also quite the fashionable place to be, with many cafes, hotels and luxury villas being built. Back then the town boasted many facilities to cater for the thousands of visitors, including a railway station and a power plant, and hosted splendid concerts and events. A kind of renaissance occurred during Yugoslavian times between the 1950s and 1980s, when facilities became state owned, and again Vrnjačka Banja became popular for treatments. This was when most of the current retro-style spa hotels were founded. Nowadays, they create something of a time warp, as many haven't been modernized since those heydays. People relaxed in elaborate parks under trees staying out of the heat, and the boulevards were packed with folk in cafes and restaurants. There was a positive buzz around Vrnjačka Banja, and it was terrific to see that the once glorious spa town was still popular. 

Chair in doorway, Vrnjačka Banja, Serbia

Picturesque bridge across near empty canal, Vrnjačka Banja, Serbia

Cute little gallery, Vrnjačka Banja, Serbia

Look out point, Vrnjačka Banja, Serbia

Resting on a walk, Vrnjačka Banja, Serbia

Retro aspects of Vrnjačka Banja, Serbia

Mataruška Banja, the second spa town we visited was a complete contrast to Vrnjačka Banja. A very small and quiet village, most of the "action" was focused around the Ibar River and the adjoining park. Several large old buildings stood amongst the trees, mostly abandoned- what we imagined may have once been grand villas, or treatment centers. Things are very quiet these days, seemingly only a few clinics left, and a very sparse and mostly elderly population. We were fortunate to stay in a wonderful wee family-run apartment in the top of a wooden house in the middle of the park. The absence of traffic was heaven! Most of our peaceful days were filled with gentle walks along the river, watching fishermen and sipping coffees in the river café. 

Statue in Mataruška Banja park, Serbia

Abandoned building Mataruška Banja, Serbia

Old style mansion, Mataruška Banja park, Serbia

Richard- urban explorer, Mataruška Banja, Serbia

Many old buildings damaged and unused, Mataruška Banja, Serbia

Our cute wooden room at the top, Mataruška Banja, Serbia

Then there was the one ridiculously arduous walk we mistakenly undertook..... Not factoring the steep incline into our energy calculations, we ended up spending most of the day slogging up and down the precariously precipitous slope. The view at the top was truly worth it, but our feet and legs didn't thank us in the following days. 

Forest around Mataruška Banja, Serbia

We actually had some signs to help us to the top, Mataruška Banja

Getting there!

Yay! Made it to the top! Mataruška Banja, Serbia

Knackered but happy, Mataruška Banja, Serbia

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We tried to take as many trains as possible during our journey, but for many places there weren't any rail options, or the timings didn't work for us, and we had to resort to buses. We loved the train trips the most, and although the summer was hot and dry, the scenery of masses of sunflowers with their heads raised towards the light and rustic farmhouses was delightful. Occasionally in the gently rolling green hills and small fields with haystacks, eagle-eyed Rich would spot a deer, fox or pheasant. Although sad to see, the decrepit little train stations along the way were quite charming. Mostly, the trains were on time and in good condition, and conductors always friendly. 

Small train station, rural Serbia

This bus company name made us laugh!

Food is such a highlight travelling in Serbia, and the Balkans in general. We feel quite indulgent sometimes, with such a choice of farm fresh produce and dairy products, and mouth watering BBQ meats. Markets overflowed with summer fruits- we fully made the most of the blackberries, raspberries and juicy peaches while they were in season. This trip we discovered pečenje style of meat cooking, a specialty of the Šumadija region. A whole pig (or lamb) cooked on a spit, the meat is prepared simply, but is excellent quality, and melt in the mouth unreal. Ordered by the weight and preferred pig part, we were in heaven scoffing this feast, especially combined with some cabbage salad and a glass of local wine. A domaća kafa (domestic coffee) and a plum rakia became a good excuse for a break whilst exploring towns, and a fantastic way to sit quietly and observe local life going on around us. As extravagant as our goodies apparently seemed, because everything is produced locally, and in season, we were paying peanuts for what would be an expensive gourmet meal elsewhere.

A Serbian meat feast, Vrnjačka Banja, Serbia

BBQ on the go, Kraljevo flea market

Drinks at a simple Serbian cafe

Pečenje style meat, Vrnjačka Banja

Big breaky, Kruševac

As we head back to South East Asia, we may not report back with a blog post for some time, as we're pretty sure by now people know what we do most years in Penang and Koh Fruitopia- we have written about it enough times! So, see you in a few months, and much love to everyone over the Christmas period (and at all other times!).

.......several months later, the next blog post coming from rustic Laos.......

UPS AND DOWNS OF A SEASIDE HOLIDAY - Herceg Novi, Montenegrin Coast

 ......previously, our tootling around Northern Serbia enjoying the springtime........

Walking around beautiful Herceg Novi

Excited to head to the beach and take some sun on our bodies after so long in the Middle East, we headed to the new and shiny train station in Belgrade for the trip down south. Whilst it was very grand and spacious, we much preferred the daggy, quiet version we had encountered on our previous visits to this train station. No doubt travellers before us also preferred when the train station was in the central part of Belgrade before being moved out to a woop woop suburb.  

As we waited for the famous Belgrade to Bar train to arrive, we nervously looked around at the hoards of people continuously arriving on the platform. We had been advised that this was still the quiet time of the season (early in June), and the train would probably be nearly empty. Not the case! As the train pulled in, a bit of a scrum occurred in a rush to board. 

On the train, we found ourselves in a tiny cabin without much room to turn, sit or stand, with four Russians. As the day train for this route hadn't begun yet, the beds were set up for sleeping, and all we could do was lie down. The heat was intense and we couldn't see out the windows. It was dark anyway, and the Russians kept closing the door and windows for the entire journey. It was quite an unpleasant trip with no air, and not much sleep was had. When the conductor came around shouting out the arrival at Podgorica station in the morning, we spilled out into the fresh morning air, bleary eyed and with some relief.

As tired as we were, we couldn't help but marvel at the lovely scenery on our bus trip along the coast to Herceg Novi. Passing by several famous and extremely busy-looking resort towns, we were glad we had chosen our destination. Tall green mountains came right down to the shores of picturesque Kotor Bay, and town after town stretched up the hills overlooking the water. The traffic was intense in places, with jams and roadworks, we certainly weren't expecting that so early in the season. Seems everyone was keen on an early beach holiday this year!

Finally reaching our destination, we easily found our little apartment with a view down to the sea, unpacked and flaked out. 

Herceg Novi town was like no other place we had visited. It brought to mind some fictional idyllic version of summer Mediterranean coastal life seen in a lush movie. The town was dramatically set into hills that ran down to Kotor Bay, steeply stepped paths took us to the old town center, with it's pretty umbrellaed cafes, cobble stone streets, fountains and charming churches. Not one, but three castles sat strongly and looked out at the glorious blue water of the bay- a perfect vantage point for spotting incoming ships. Around every corner was a lovely scene of flowering vines draped over wrought iron balconies on aging buildings, and stone steps leading down and around inviting corners. The fragrance of jasmine and other flowers from the beautiful gardens in the grounds of bigger villas followed us through the winding lanes. Footpaths were speckled with shade and bright bougainvillea and oleanders, and made walking a sheer delight. The ever-present views of the sea sparkling in the dazzling sunshine with small yachts and the occasional huge cruise ship entering from the Adriatic Sea could be seen from all over town.

A town of steps, Herceg Novi

Tunnel under the fort, Herceg Novi

Character filled laneways, Herceg Novi

Overlooking Kotor Bay from Herceg Novi old town

Color and fragrance, Herceg Novi

A hero amongst the greenery, Herceg Novi

What's behind the green door, Herceg Novi

Ornate water pump in town square, Herceg Novi

Herceg Novi old town square

Then there was the trudge back up the hill! Even though our wee apartment was not terribly far from the sea, the 342 steps (yes, Rich counted them!) was tough on our legs at first. After a week or so, however, we became used to the walk and it became somewhat easier. 

The steps were a killer coming up!

Warm colours around Herceg Novi old town

During our month stay the weather slowly changed from nicely warm to fiercely hot, and as the school holidays started, many more visitors arrived. It didn't really impact on us, we still enjoyed strolling about the town and the waterfront promenade, taking some sun on the pebbly beaches, braving a dip in the refreshingly cool and clear sea and relaxing on our balcony at home. The view of the sunlight reflecting on the sea, and listening to the church bells ringing gently every hour was delightful.

Strolling along the waterfront, Herceg Novi

Herceg Novi seafront

Remnants of a fortified part of the town

Early morning reflections, Herceg Novi

We love the vibe of a European beach holiday, and find it interesting watching Balkan culture at the coast. Balkan holiday makers are very tolerant with the sun, some spending hours on the beach soaking up the rays. We weren't quite so intense, but still felt the huge benefits of some sunshine on our bodies, and felt healthy and happy as a result. 

Our favourite beach, before the crowds came!

Tourists loved the waterfront and old town cafes, and the busy atmosphere and people watching were wonderful. We had our favorite café by the St Michael Archangel Orthodox Church, particularly interesting on a Sunday when people streamed in dressed modestly to pray, a big difference from the scantily clad outfits the rest of the time! One lazy Sunday afternoon, we must have looked relaxed and happy, as the waitress offered us a rakia on the house! Of course we accepted.

Beverages at the church, Herceg Novi

The tiny central market, while cute and inviting, with its little stalls and attractive produce, turned out to be most disappointing. The small amount of fruit available was ridiculously over priced- we found it cheaper to buy from the less atmospheric super market. We did, however, admire the cured meats and cheese section, the smell alone was worth a visit!

We enjoyed a few trips along the coast to nearby towns, each with its own character. Igalo in particular had a great, old style vibe, with communist-era high-rises, retro municipal buildings and shady local parks. Bijela, in the other direction was a cute and ramshackle beach holiday place catering to many families, also with a lovely atmosphere. 

Incredible abandoned swimming pool, Igalo

Retro vibes in Igalo, near Herceg Novi

We experienced a relatively minor drama when our laptop decided to stop working, and we upsettingly lost a load of photos, videos and information files from our Middle Eastern travels (not to mention having to buy a new laptop). 

One of three forts in Herceg Novi, Fort Mare

Sal's new discovery, surutka, great for the gut!

We absolutely loved our month on the Montenegrin coast, and it was exactly the Balkan summer break we had envisioned and hoped for. Sadly, towards the end of our stay, Sal's Mum passed away, which saw us rapidly changing our plans to get her back to Melbourne to be with family as soon as possible. 

Sal in a charming lane in Herceg Novi

Rich with a giant anchor, Herceg Novi

More steps and a bike, Herceg Novi

.....coming next, more travels to random and engaging Serbian towns.........