FEARSOME GIANTS AND THE TRANSFIGURATION OF GOD - Shumen and Samovodene, Bulgaria

 .....previously, our initial travels in Bulgaria, around the western regions.........

With our last five hour train trip from Sofia to Oreshets being slightly too strenuous, we prepared for our upcoming long journey with plenty of cold water, snacks and something to listen to whilst enjoying the scenery out of the window. As a result, it was much more pleasant. It helped that we were on a slightly posher train in a compartment, enclosed with six seats, a door and plenty of windows on each side. The scenery passing by our windows was mostly agricultural, maize and cereal, with the fields of glowing sunflowers being particularly pleasing- their faces turned towards the morning sun. As the journey progressed, the cabin filled, and after five hours we were happy to get off. Our destination was Shumen, a very untouristy town (again) in the far east of Bulgaria, not quite as far as the Black Sea coast. 

The incredible Founders of the Bulgarian State monument, Shumen

There appeared to be quite a bit to do around Shumen, and having felt slightly rushed in pervious towns, we chose a longer stay here. It was a good choice as we had a fab little unit with a bathroom, fridge and basics for making food. 

Number one on our list of things to do was to visit the magnificent Founders of the Bulgarian State monument. Being able to see it high on an exposed hill from practically all parts of Shumen, we were fascinated and excited to see it close up. Built in 1981 to celebrate the 1300th anniversary of the first Bulgarian Empire, its wonderful Cubist style was quite unique and unlike anything we had ever seen before. 

Starting out super early on a Sunday morning, we began to ascend the 1300 steps rising quite regally up the hill, and were surprised to find ourselves surrounded by many enthusiastic locals exercising, many of them not exactly young! This encouraged us to get a move on and drag our sweaty bodies up to the top. 

Starting out from the town

1300 steps to the top! 

The spectacle up there was simply amazing, giant figures carved in concrete appearing out from behind corners, looming over us and at strange angles. The faces were fierce and the feeling was strength and power. The style was so unusual, and we loved the novelty of seeing something so complex and original.

Bold figures, Founders of the Bulgarian State monument, Shumen

Looming above us, Founders of the Bulgarian State monument, Shumen

Fantastic style, Founders of the Bulgarian State monument, Shumen

Dwarfed by the hugeness, Founders of the Bulgarian State monument, Shumen

Getting the best angle!

Freaky giant faces, Founders of the Bulgarian State monument, Shumen

Amazingly angled mosaic, Founders of the Bulgarian State monument, Shumen

A stunning place, Founders of the Bulgarian State monument, Shumen

Another day out was spent trying to reach the Shashkunite Rock Monastery, which was marked on our map, but without the details of the track leading there. Luckily, this turned out to be easier than we expected. After a trip on a very scruffy and smelly local train, we arrived at the less than attractive town of Provadija, where we walked up a hill until the residential neighbourhood turned into a small forest trail, complete with huge mosquitoes, which discouraged us from standing still for too long. A tiny sign ensured us we were on the right track, and before long we could see a bridge high up above us on the cliffs. A short, steep slog later, we arrived at the precarious looking bridge which took us over a ravine to a series of tiny rock caves, where in the 12th and 13th centuries monks would live in peace and solitude. On our visit, a group of youngsters had chosen the caves for an early morning hang out place, and although they were noisy, they were also friendly, and soon left us alone to enjoy the tranquillity and the view down into Provadija. 

Leaving Shumen station on our early morning shabby train

Old style, basic train

Lovely forest roots, Provadija, Bulgaria

Working our way to the Rock Monastery, Provadija, Bulgaria

Happy to see we were on the right track!

Braving the bridge to arrive at the cave, Shashkunite Rock Monastery

Slightly apprehensive of the edge, Shashkunite Rock Monastery

Rich chatting to kids, Shashkunite Rock Monastery

Random glamourous cat on track coming down

For some reason, this day absolutely knackered us both, and on return to Shumen, and after a celebratory wine (it's so hard to resist at less than £2 a bottle!), we pretty much crashed, and declared the next couple of days time off, in order to give our tired bodies a rest and catch up the hundreds of photos and blog stuff. We befriended a young Bulgarian in town for his final university exams, and we enjoyed sharing a drink and chatting with him about aspects of Bulgarian life. It's rare to find proficient English speakers here, and we took advantage of this to ask many of the questions that had been on our minds. When he left, he bought us a selection of Bulgarian treats- very sweet guy.

Bulgarian sweet treat gifts from our new friend, Shumen

We also found our way to Shumen's lesser local sights, more decaying Socialist-era architecture and beautiful parks than we could shake a stick at. Remembering our great times at local breweries in Albania, we tried to find a way into the huge Shumensko Beer factory, but alas, there was nowhere for visitors to look around and have a drink. We settled for buying one at the shop and drinking it when we got home.

Old and older structures, Shumen, Bulgaria

The occasional mosque in Bulgaria

Grand fountain in the park, Shumen

Ramshackle Shumen building

One of MANY Bulgarian beers, Shumensko

Revitalized after a couple of easy days, we set out for a breezy two hour train trip to Samovodene, a tiny place on the river Yantra. Although close to the big city of Veliko Tarnovo geographically, it was a world away in terms of tranquillity. The cute little train station was hilarious, with the female guard and a maintenance guy greeting us with slight surprise. Seemingly people alight at this tiny station very rarely. They gave us directions to "town" down a dusty track, and we were on our way. On arrival, the son of the family guesthouse we had pre-booked checked us in somewhat awkwardly, but showed us to a delightful room with a balcony overlooking the lush garden. 

Dishevelled room in Samovodene (this was on our departure!)

Arriving at tiny Samovodene station, Bulgaria

Baby storks in the village, Samovodene

Lovely stone wall, Samovodene village

Of course, we had to look for a walk in the local area, and here we were spoilt for choice. In every direction were hills and forests, many with small appealing tracks, and we chose one that lead to a monastery- the mouthful that was the Monastery of the Holy Transfiguration of God. Summer was really warming up now, and this area seemed particularly brutally hot during the day. We set off decidedly early and immediately found ourselves in a wonderfully atmospheric woodland with giant boulders and thick trees leading up to a photogenic monastery. As we were so early, everyone staying there seemed to still be asleep, so we wandered around on our own, marvelling at the superb location. The monastery was tucked in under a cliff face, which rose up dramatically at the back. On the other side, the view of hills and valleys stretched out in front of us for miles. The pretty exteriors of the church displayed pastel coloured artwork, and the main building was a gorgeous mix of wood and stone, built in a traditional manner. After playing with the monastery cats for a while and taking some pictures, we returned to the village via a different route up over the hills and across into some open, lightly wooded areas. 

Admiring the forest beauty, Samovodene

A hard slog to the top, Samovodene

Monastery of the Holy Transfiguration of God, Samovodene

A glimpse into an abandoned outbuilding, Samovodene

Extraordinary setting under the cliffs, Samovodene

Simplistic designs on the church exterior, Samovodene

Wooden building in the grounds of the monastery, Samovodene

Chair basking in the sun, Samovodene

Decorations on the church in the monastery grounds, Samovodene

Partly in disrepair, Monastery of the Holy Transfiguration of God

Wee hut a short steep climb from the monastery, Samovodene

Ready to hit the road again, we left tiny Samovodene and headed to a completely different part of Bulgaria, Troyan, right in the centre of the country.

Leaving tiny Samovodene station in the early morning

......next up, we travel slowly back east for our final stretch in Bulgaria......