Saying goodbye to Bosnia, and the less than perfect Bosnian train system, we left for Croatia on a very early morning bus from Zavidovići,home of the giant balls. We're always dubious about buses. This time, after squeezing onto a tiny minibus with a couple of old men, we were driven a short distance to a depot where many big buses were parked. We were motioned off our minibus to stand in the freezing cold, but with no-one speaking English, and us having no idea what was going on, we were slightly apprehensive. Of course, being the Balkans, everything turned out to be fine. After some time, we were shepherded onto a smart and comfortable large bus and everyone was very accommodating and kind. We then set off for a tour of northern Bosnia's petrol stations, as for some reason this bus company didn't drive into towns or use bus stations to pick up their passengers. As usual for this part of the world, the border procedure was quick and smooth, and immediately after crossing we arrived in Slavonski Brod, a small town just inside eastern Croatia.
We knew we would be arriving into Croatia on a Sunday, and that the country is overwhelmingly Catholic, but we don't think we have ever been in a place that was so completely closed up and devoid of life on a holy day. Walking through the deserted neighbourhoods between the station and our guesthouse was like being in a ghost town, and we were relieved to see our friendly host's smiling face upon arrival.
Locals here were perfectly lovely, probably because they don't get many tourists in this part of Croatia. We had wanted to see a normal Croatian town, and break our journey on the way to Budapest. Although Slavonski Brod probably didn't offer a great deal in the way of sights, it had excellent pedestrian paths for wandering, free local buses and enough to keep us occupied for a couple of days.
Disused tram, Slavonski Brod, Croatia
We visited the first star fort that we can remember, although the remains were well covered up for the most part. After a stroll along the Sava River (which we know so well in Belgrade), the pedestrianized central square, and a peek inside a small monastery with an unfriendly nun, we finished up at a sunny, and cheap cafe at the atmospheric central market. Autumn produce was now on sale at markets, with cabbages and cauliflower being both giant and abundant.
Under the star fort, Slavonski Brod, Croatia
VERY good market rakija, Slavonski Brod, Croatia
This picture is not stretched! Strangely shaped cabbages, Slavonski Brod, Croatia
Just as the weather had immediately turned sour on our arrival into Bosnia, it turned sunny and lovely the day we left and entered Croatia. It was unknown to us if it was a result of the relentless spraying of God-knows-what in the skies, but we were happy to return to the sort of autumn weather we remembered from past years- bright and sunny, but cooler temperatures.
Our first train travel day in Croatia was a brilliant one! Two fantastic trains took us from Slavonski Broad to Osijek, a town in the north of eastern Croatia, near the Hungarian border. The first was an extremely comfortable, spacious, up to date and clean compartment, very Western European in style. We had the entire compartment to ourselves, with the others being taken up with noisy teenagers on their way home from school. The second was more simple, and in an older style, but equally comfortable and uncrowded.
Comfortable and clean Croatian train
Extremely spiffy Croatian train toilet
The landscape in this part of Croatia was mainly flat agricultural, but with the soft autumn light fading in the late afternoon and the golden leaves on the trees, it was quite lovely.
Osijek was another neat Croatian town, with many ornate Austro-Hungarian designed buildings. We were still adjusting to the orderly nature of Croatia, with most homes having perfectly kept gardens and uniformly mown lawns, and city streets near to spotless, no rubbish to be seen. We weren't sure if we liked it or not!
Stone street in Osijek, Croatia
After the Ottomans had been booted out of this part of Croatia in the 1600s, it is said the Hapsburg Empire took over and began the building of Osijek's fort, which would evolve over a couple of hundred years. In today's world, and on the Saturday we visited, it was a bizarre empty part of the city, with large squares and unanimated grand buildings, mostly in good upkeep, standing quietly, but without life. Hopefully it looks and feels different during the week, with university students and business bringing some spark to the place.
Empty fort area, Osijek, Croatia
Preparing for winter, Osijek, Croatia
Like a ghost town, old fort area, Osijek, Croatia
Osijek had one of the best fresh markets we have seen in the Balkans. A very different vibe to the slightly disordered and messy style elsewhere, this one was neat and spaciously set out with charming little wooden stands. Most stalls had a small amount of beautifully presented autumn produce, some just specializing in a couple of things eg. pumpkin and spinach from their gardens. Everything was local, fresh and appealing, and mostly clearly marked with the prices. People were smiley, and the mushroom man in particular was very proud when we showed interest in his small selection of giant mushrooms. A huge assortment of varieties of fruit were all clearly labelled, with the apple choices being the most diverse.
Flower section of Osijek market, Croatia
Great variety of apples, Osijek, Croatia
Giant fungi (on the right), Osijek, Croatia
Again a fantastic town for walking, we strolled to our heart's content around the old section of Osijek and the gorgeous parklands a free ferry away on the opposite side of the Drava River. The highly ornamental so-called neo-Gothic cathedral was being renovated and closed for business (the story of our lives when it comes to cathedrals), and the fancy houses on Europska Avenue blew our minds with their next level examples of embellishments and weird decorations.
Extreme ornamentation on Osijek's Europska Avenue, Croatia
Of course, Croatia is more expensive than other Balkan countries, having recently adopted the Euro, and being inside the EU. We were glad we had stocked up on many items in Bosnia before we left, the prices were that different.
Quirky riverside statue, Osijek, Croatia
Croatia sort of grew on us for the brief two weeks we were there (although we only visited two random towns in the untouristed eastern part). At first as we crossed the border from Bosnia, it's not an exaggeration to say there was a subtle feeling of leaving the east and arriving in the west. Presumably because of its being an EU country, standards here seemed higher and more exacting in many ways, and residents more affluent. Not only were the towns weirdly neat and tidy, with no rubbish or dog poo anywhere, generous pedestrian paths and extensive bike tracks alongside most roads provided an extremely pleasant way for locals to get around. Residents took advantage of this benefit, and the number of bikes whizzing by us was considerable. The bus and train stations were so well organized with electronic signage on the platforms and station announcements, as well as buses and trains having the destination clearly marked on the vehicle.
Keeping things orderly on walking paths, Croatia
Clearly marked train, Croatia
There was a marked difference to the more unorganized and slightly chaotic vibe of all our favourite countries further east. Never having been in Croatia before we weren't to know if this was representative of the entire country, but we hoped to find out more if we were able to travel here more extensively in the future.
Our short route through north-east Croatia
We were surprised and delighted to find out that a series of trains would be able to carry us from Croatia to Budapest. We had thought this not possible, but the friendly staff in the railway station in Osijek helped us out, and we had a ticket in our hand for three separate train journeys and a day on the railways of Croatia and Hungary. The train scenery was once again spectacular, with brilliant shining autumn colours and natural beauty galore. It inspired us to make a return trip sometime to explore Hungary's countryside. The only (small) catch on the trip was an antagonistic Hungarian train conductor on the last leg, who informed us we needed to buy an additional ticket to the one we had already purchased in Croatia. Although his manner was clearly unhelpful, several fellow passengers in the carriage stepped up and assisted us in English by explaining what the problem was. We were grateful, and the situation was soon resolved pleasantly.
Mini train that would take us across the border from Croatia to Hungary
Inside tiny border train- Croatia to Hungary
Budapest was such an enormous contrast to the Balkan countries we had been travelling in for the past four months, it was almost too much to take it in. Only having a couple of days stay in the gigantic city, we didn't have enough time to understand much about the country. The strange language, the customs of people and the history would have to wait for another trip when we could explore in depth. Instead we spent a couple of days simply wandering and enjoying the sunny days and breaking the "Budapest Curse" we had imposed on ourselves from our first time in the city. We had not been impressed with the place on that visit, with the summer hordes being overwhelming. Although this time our stopover was in late October, the tour groups were still out in force, although now we were ready and had a plan to avoid them. We crossed the busy Széchenyi Lánchíd chain bridge to the "Buda" side of Budapest and spent a perfect day walking around serene parks and paths along the cliffs, looking down to stunning views of the bustle of the Danube River.
We loved the autumn leaves in the parks, Budapest
One of many monuments on the Buda side of Budapest
Stunning autumn colours, Budapest
Happy in Budapest park, broke the curse!
An extremely intriguing figure in the Philosopher's Park, Bud, Budapest
Looking down at the Danube from a walk in the hills, Buda, Budapest
Back in the city we marvelled at the multicultural nature of Budapest, with so many immigrants from far flung parts, and the corresponding amounts of businesses with Turkey, Kashmir, Vietnam or Kabul in their names. This was so incredibly different from the Balkan countries which tend to be less attractive for foreign incomers to stay in.
Very Hungarian sign, Budapest
Extremely ornate architecture all over Budapest
Our apartment was what we assumed to be typically Hungarian, with all three places we have stayed in the country having been in the same distinctive style. The area was predictably dodgy, with a proliferation of rubbish, down and outs, beggars and drunks. Overall, Budapest was an excellent break in the journey, and a good place to organize ourselves for our long trip back to South East Asia.
Apartment entrance Budapest, Hungary
Typical Hungarian courtyard style
The time had come for our annual pilgrimage to the sea gypsies and islands in the south of Thailand. We will spend our winter there, as we have done for many years. We will miss the many aspects about being on the road in the Balkans, but also look forward to the easy, laid back, beachy life we will have on Ko Fruitopia. So, no more blogs for some months while we go off grid as they say, and we will see you on the other side!
Giant stone ball at Zavidovići, Bosnia and Hercegovina
Arriving
in Sarajevo after our less than impressive train trip from Konjic,we were greeted with cool temperatures. It seemed summer
was well and truly over, and this autumn the weather would be mixed
and not terribly warm. Luckily, our Air B and B host was on hand to
pick us up from the railway station and drive us to the cosy high-rise apartment we would be renting in Sarajevo. A lovely man, he showed us
around the place, equipped with everything we could possibly need,
and left us to settle in to the warm and comfy rooms. We loved the
apartment so much, we quickly asked to extend our stay for another
week.
The
neighbourhood in which we were staying was intriguing to us, and
our first time in such a place. Yugoslavia-era apartment blocks rose up all
around us, but rather than feeling oppressive, there was a lovely
community feel, with families and kids playing in the parks, old men
in wee local cafes, plenty of markets and shops, and friendly people
in our building. The beast of an old elevator was a saviour for us
staying on the 6th floor, and we should imagine even more for those
up on the 20th floor! Intriguing communal heating plants with huge
chimneys had been built alongside all the surrounding tower blocks to
supply residents with heating and hot water.
Foyer and letterboxes, Sarajevo accommodation
Our Sarajevo high-rise block
Street art of Sarajevo
Pristine vintage car, Sarajevo
Nearby was the Miljacka River, which ran along the valley into the old part of Sarajevo.
Trams, buses and trolley buses all followed this route, and
navigating the city was cheap and easy, once we sussed out how to buy
a ticket! Apparently, Sarajevo was one of the first cities in Europe
to use an electric tram system.
Peaceful walk into the city centre, Sarajevo
Sarajevo tram, Bosnia
Trolleybus ticket, Sarajevo, Bosnia
Tram depot, Sarajevo, Bosnia
Dozens of
second hand shops could be found in the area surrounding our digs, so
we set to buying a couple of warmer items to see us through the next
month. We were greatly looking forward to visiting the Sunday flea
market on the edge of town, and we were certainly not disappointed.
The biggest second hand market we have every seen, the stalls
sprawled out for miles. An eclectic mixture of casual tarps on the
ground with piles of junk, and more professionally set up stalls- it felt like everything
under the sun was available there. Most interesting were the
collections of cool Yugoslavia memorabilia, with an alarming amount
of bright orange kitchenware from the 1970s, as well as rotary
phones, metal military badges, gas masks and Bosnian comic books. Added to
those were random objects such as gold lame wellington boots, piles
of laptops, and even a dildo! Thousands of winter coats were heaped
up all over the place and so many winter woolly bargains it would be
hard to choose what to buy. Thankfully, we were leaving for Thailand
before the really cold weather set in, so we were only looking.
Sarajevo is a
long thin city, and hilly, with streets rising steeply up to old
suburbs and forested parts. We enjoyed the walk up to the Yellow and White
forts, Ottoman relics popular for sunset views. The best part,
however, was wandering the very Muslim neighbourhood up there, home
to many local clubs and cafes complete with men in Muslim skull caps
and women in headscarves, which we hadn't really seen so far in
Bosnia.
The quiet
cobblestone streets with attractive white mosques and dozens of
friendly black cats took our minds off the arduous slopes, and
the outstanding views of the picturesque city were worth the effort.
Remnants of ancient walls were scattered around the hill, perhaps
once enclosing the whole city.
Subsequent
jaunts in the hills surrounding Sarajevo provided more lovely vistas.
We came across a beautiful, yet poignant cemetery with hundreds of
graves of young lives lost in the early 1990s, unfortunately one of
many such places in Bosnia and Hercegovina.
Glorious views from Sarajevo hills, Bosnia
Sad, quiet cemetery
Sarajevo is
tiny for a capital city, with the population standing at less than
300,000, and exploring was a joy. The old
part of town was a mix of styles- Yugo brutalism from the 1970s, Ottoman beauties still intact, and a sprinkling of
Austro-Hungarian doorways and windows particularly noticeable. A
muddled but marvellous blend of added architectural bits and pieces
throughout the years created a wonderful character. Again, as
previously mentioned many buildings of all ages were riddled with
bullet holes, a remainder of the violence of the 1990s.
Austro-Hungarian era Vijećnica, Sarajevo city hall
Retro remainder from the 1984 Olympic games, skating rink
Heart of the Ottoman centre of Sarajevo, Bosnia
Fancy Ottoman fellow, Sarajevo, Bosnia
Funky Yugo-style side alley way, Sarajevo
Sunny courtyards and parks with giant chess sets
complimented soaring mosques and bazaars. We haven't been to Turkey,
but we imagined it must be something like this. We were again
slightly put off by the tour groups jam packed into the narrow streets. On our visit to the cobblestoned Ottoman old section of Sarajevo,
there was a water problem and none of the hundreds of cafes had any running water. Considering the amount of tourists and others crowded into
them, it must have been terrible for business.
Pots and cups for sale, Sarajevo old town
Particularly fancy coffee in Sarajevo alley cafe
Smack bang in
the middle of the old quarter was the Latin Bridge, the site where
the Archduke Franz Ferdinand was shot, supposedly being the catalyst
for the beginning of World War One (and inspiration for the name of Indie Glaswegian band Franz Ferdinand). The assassination is said to have
been carried out by Bosnian Serb Gavrilo Princip. He was part of a
group of revolutionaries who wanted to leave the rule of the
Austro-Hungarian Empire. With the end of World war One, this indeed
happened, with Bosnia becoming part of Yugoslavia.
The infamous Latin Bridge in Sarajevo, Bosnia
Pomegranates in season, Sarajevo, Bosnia
Splendid park in the middle of Sarajevo, Bosnia
Tragically,
Sarajevo is also know for the horrors of the Bosnian War in the
1990s, and in particular the Siege of Sarajevo between 1992 and 1996.
the longest siege in modern history. For nearly four years, the
residents of the city were trapped and attacked by Bosnian Serb
troops who had encircled the city on all sides. Bosniak troops inside
defended the city the best they could, but their arms were inferior
and they were unable to break the siege. Residents were often without
water and power for months at a time, and food and medical supplies
were blocked. When a peace agreement was finally signed many
thousands had died. Exact figures are uncertain, but a
large portion were civilians and of mixed ethnicities.
Sarajevo's
recent history is so heartbreakingly awful, it's hard to think about.
When we first arrived in Bosnia, we saw a few buildings with marks on the exteriors, and we remarked how much they looked like bullet holes.
Little did we know that not only were we correct, but we were to see
this type of damage extensively in literally every place we visited
on many, many buildings. As we learnt more about the recent history
and what had occurred during the Bosnian War in the 1990s, we
realized that the fighting had been wide spread and close up, at
times people fighting their neighbours directly across the street.
Our minds struggled to connect the horrors that had occurred in
the beautiful places we were in, and to think about the easy-going
locals fighting each other in such a vicious fashion.
Peaceful scene, Sarajevo hill
Out of
interest, nowadays more than half of Bosnia and Hercegovina's
residents are Sunni Muslim, followed by a large part of Orthodox
Christians and a smaller percentage of Catholics. This is reversed in the Republika Srpska part of Bosnia, where the majority of residents are Orthodox
Christians.
Lovely old green mosque, Sarajevo, Bosnia and Hercegovina
We were
impressed by the plentiful outward signs of support of Palestine,
with many large banners displayed in prominent positions, and various
business also proclaiming solidarity by stickers or signs.
Unfortunately,
as much as we enjoyed exploring the city of Sarajevo, and our lovely
apartment, we won't be back any time soon due to the excessive amount
of weather manipulation being carried out. Although we have been plagued by spraying in the skies throughout the Balkans, Sarajevo was the worst we have ever seen anywhere
in the world.
Our
final train trip in Bosnia awaited us upon leaving Sarajevo. We were heading
to Zavidovići, a small town on the Bosna, the same river the railway line trails. We had been following this route up and down for the last couple of months. Hoping to
spend some time in nature after our stay in Sarajevo, our main reason
for visiting Zavidovići was to see the mysterious
giant balls that had been discovered there.
Leaving the big city
Our railway journey passed quickly thanks to conversation with a most refreshing
young man on a break from university. The three of us
shared a compartment on the same old fashioned type of train we had
caught from Maglaj at the beginning of our Bosnian trip. He was a chatty fellow, and we appreciated
hearing his views on everything from the Bosnian War to local food. He was also full of questions about Australian culture, which we
happily answered. As the evening drew in, he phoned our friendly Zavidovići host
for us, and we arranged a pick up from the station. This was a great
help, due to the cold, pitch black night, and the distance between
the station and where we were staying. A welcome rakija and some bacon sandwiches on arrival finished us off for the night.
Four poster bed in the "Romance Room" at Zavidovići
We were keen
to see the stones the next morning, and walked more than an hour to
discover an absolutely enchanting wooded site. We were entirely alone there during our visit, with only a tiny kitten for company. Some modest work had been
done to create basic paths and huts at the site, but mostly it was
natural and gorgeous. The autumn forest colours were all gloriously
aglow, with golden oak and beech leaves spread like a carpet on the ground. A small stream lead through the trees and this is where the
beautiful stones were - about 15 of them, spaced out along the
brook. Perfectly round and smooth, we were immediately drawn to them
and despite the damp and drizzly weather, felt compelled to touch
them. Their sizes varied, and they were mysterious and lovely. The
spot was so enchanting, it was something like being inside a fairy
tale. Strolling around we found crazy mushrooms growing, moss covered
rocks, and wild strawberry ground covers. The misty and damp weather added to the entrancing atmosphere, but we weren't able to explore the pretty surrounding area much- too muddy and slippery. Instead, we hung out admiring the
stones for a while, before we returned home cold and soaked, ready for a hot
shower.
Exploring the stream filled with stone balls, Zavidovići
Bright critter in autumn leaves, Zavidovići
Transfixed by the feel, Zavidovići
Fairy tale feel, forest at Zavidovići
Damp weather brought out thousands of mushroom varieties
We hadn't
realized when we booked our room, but there was a second, lesser know
stone site right around the corner from us. The next day, we headed
off, and were surprised to find another spot, just as lovely as the
other, but with only one giant ball, instead of several smaller ones.
A funky little wooden café had been constructed on the site, and as
we arrived three relaxed looking men welcomed us, and tried to communicate with us. Realizing we were English speakers, one of them phoned his
friend in Melbourne to see if we needed any help or information. We
spent some time inspecting and appreciating the giant stone, which
was still partially embedded in the ground. The forest surrounding
the area was every bit as captivating as the previous day's, and after some
wet walking and connecting to the nature, we headed back to the
café.
The biggest stone of all, Zavidovići
Beautiful forest scene, Zavidovići
Sal making friends with shaggy green rock, Zavidovići
Of the three
resident guys, one was Italian, the other two Bosnia, none spoke
English, only Italian and German. Nevertheless, we managed a
brilliant conversation for a few hours there about the mysterious
places we'd seen in Bosnia, hunting, Italian mafia and India to name
a few subjects! Much sign language and a few drawings helped the
conversation along. The "rakija" we were given would have been an insult in Serbia, but after the first one, it wasn't so bad.
Hoping to avoid any more rain, we walked back to our digs in the drizzle ready for a warm
and cosy evening, and feeling contented and happy.
After
reading our previous
blog post talking about the Pyramids of Visoko,
some readers came away with the impression we thought the whole
thing a hoax and didn't consider the claims to be genuine. This isn't
true- we are completely open to the idea of past advanced
civilizations, and consider the ideas of Samir Osmanagić to be totally
feasible. It was just the New Age industry that had rose up around
the claims that we were sceptical about. Similarly, we were completely open minded about the stones balls, what they were and how they had been formed. They are one of many similar sites around the world, and we look forward to one day seeing others. One thing was for certain, we felt a special energy coming from those stones, that we didn't feel so much in Visoko. This exceptional place, along with the extraordinary Belogradchik in Bulgaria were the highlights for us of this year's Balkan travels.
Autumn leaves, Zavidovići, Bosnia and Hercegovina
After two wonderful months in Bosnia and Hercegovina, we ready to make our way to Budapest via a short time in Croatia, a brand new country for us!
As we expected, many aspects of Bosnian culture and life were similar to the other Balkan countries we had visited. The big contrast here was the captivating Muslim/Ottoman influence, and this difference had us absorbed as we travelled around the country.
Bosnian food
was similar to Serbian, except perhaps with less variety in eateries.
They are absolutely obsessed here with the ćevapi, and
places offering the meaty treat ćevabdžinica are
seemingly every few steps. It has to be said, although we feel
disloyal to Serbia to say it, Bosnia does the best version
of ćevapi we've had anywhere. The bread is the star
attraction, with a light and slightly chewy consistency, and the meat
juicy and tasty.
The best ćevapi is Bosnianćevapi- sorry Serbians!
VERY sweet Bosnian dessert, tulumbe
It has to be said, the Balkans version of "fast food" is actually in general, fantastic quality, fresh, home-made goodness- filling and delicious. It cannot be in any way compared to the inferior artificial, highly processed slop known as fast food in other parts of the world.
We wondered
if alcohol would be freely available in Muslim Bosnia and
Hercegovina, but thankfully it was. The only limitation was some
cafes only selling non-alcoholic drinks such as tea and coffee. Pork
was also for sale in most supermarkets, just not in ćevabdžinica.
Bosnian
beers were a hit with us, we enjoyed every one of the several we
sampled. Wines, on the other hand, at least at the cheap end of the
spectrum, were dire, and best left on the shelf.
A selection of Bosnian beers
The spread of our Bosnian travel destinations 2024
We have to make an addendum here..... our long time friend wrote this most lovely poem about our time at the balls. We appreciate his effort, and his prose- expressing thoughts many times better than we ever could! Thank you!
Zavidovići's Enchanting Embrace
From Sarajevo's bustling streets, To Zavidovići's tranquil retreat, A train journey through landscapes serene, Conversations with a young soul keen.
In the heart of the forest, a mystical call, Giant balls, a sight to enthrall, A wooded haven, a fairy tale's grace, Where nature's beauty leaves its trace.
Golden leaves, a carpet so grand, A stream whispers, secrets in hand, Perfectly round, the stones so grand, Mysteries whispered, in this enchanted land.
Misty air, a touch of mystique, Mushrooms sprout, and colors speak, A tiny kitten, a playful guide, In this woodland realm, where wonders reside.
Another site, with a single ball's might, A wooden café, bathed in warm light, Conversations flow, beyond language's hold, In this shared moment, stories unfold.
Rakija's warmth, in the drizzling rain, Contentment fills, easing every pain, Zavidovići's embrace, a memory to keep, In the depths of the forest, where dreams run deep. IZ
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