FOXY TIMES IN ANCIENT THEBES - Luxor West Bank, Egypt

........the beginning of our Luxor stay, in the bustle of the East Bank......

Stunning reliefs at Medinat Habu, Luxor West Bank

After a week or so in Luxor, we exchanged the rush of the East Bank, for the relaxed vibe of the West Bank. Over the past few years, the area directly across the river from Luxor Temple known as Ramla, has been become home to more and more long term travellers and ex-pats. We found an apartment by asking around, and ended up smack bang on the banks of the Nile, in a superb position in which to enjoy the activity of the river. We were able to spend hours watching the huge number of vessels ferrying people back and forth between the East and West banks of Luxor, as well as bigger boats traversing up and down the Nile to further away destinations. Sunrise was directly in front of our balcony, rather pleasingly rising over Luxor Temple, and sunset could be viewed from the rooftop terrace over the fields and hills of the Pharaoh's burial places, the Nile side full of romantic feluccas serenely sailing by. 

Felucca watching from our balcony, Luxor West Bank

Short tour of our Luxor West Bank apartment

It was difficult not to compare our first apartment in Egypt with the many we had stayed in in the Balkans for the last couple of years. We had found in Albania, Serbia and Montenegro, apartments always came with kitchen basics, such as oil, salt, sugar, coffee and tea, and whatever else had been left by previous tenants. Usually, the host would also leave a little treat for us. Bathrooms came with soap, washing detergent, and cleaning products, and there was always a mop and a broom. None of those things were provided here, so we had to start from scratch. Having said that, we were also paying a slightly lower price. 

The lack of noise from early morning vegie sellers, mosques or street arguments (all of which were common on the East side) was bliss. Donkey carts were more common outside our place than motorised vehicles. The apartment was relatively luxurious and way too big for us, but we enjoyed having a basic kitchen for meals, and some space and peace. 

Sunrise from our balcony

The main "town" on the West Bank was a one street affair next to the ferry crossing, leading to the ancient sights, and a five minute walk from our quiet dusty lane. The one greengrocers shop received various fruits and vegies at different times of the week, so we would take pot luck on what was fresh that day. Mostly we were able to take advantage of super cheap and seasonal produce. It wasn't so important for us to find a good cafe and place to eat here, as we had our kitchen at home. But we made it a daily routine to sit at the juice stall with a 5 LE/£0.20 asab (sugar cane juice) or 10 LE/£0.50 orange juice, and watch the busy centre activity. Mr Sudani, a modest and tiny grocery shop served our needs for various bits and pieces to round out our meals.

After a few days, the dozens of calls to us on our way between home and the main street diminished, as the men from the boats and taxis got to recognize us and know that we weren't interested in their services. One guy even said, "I know you will say no, but I have to ask. You understand?"

But a few of the hundreds of Egyptian Gods and Goddesses

Knowing we had a long stay in Luxor, we decided to choose a different site to visit every few days. This worked out well, as we could have a really good scout around and absorb what we were seeing, and take some time to process the context (and the photos!) in the following days. 

Luxor was known as Thebes in ancient times, and the West Bank was the necropolis for royalty, noblemen and their craftsmen during the New Kingdom (1539- 1075 BC), when the powerful rulers began to build extravagant tombs and mortuary temples for themselves and their families. The city's fortunes rose and fell, with the height of the wealth and power coming during the reign of Amenhotep III, again during Seti I's rule, as well as his son Ramses II and a little further down the family tree, Ramses III, the last great pharaoh. 

This is where we started- at  Medinet Habu, the wonderfully grand funerary temple of Ramses III, the first Pharaoh of the 20th dynasty. Ramses' career mostly involved defending Egypt from Libyans, Nubians and other invaders in several wars. Later in his life, he turned his attentions to his creations at Karnak and Medinet Habu. The latter temple was dedicated to Amon, a God and cult figure amongst royalty at Thebes.

After jumping out of the public minibus before 7am, and buying our tickets at the office that served for most of the "lesser sites", we enjoyed the early morning light strolling to the ancient site through the sleepy village of Kom Lolah with it's simple mud brick houses. 

Local resident of Kom Lolah, near Medinat Habu

The temple was completely empty, apart from the usual desperate wanna-be guides. We found this to be true at every location we visited on the West Bank. Partly because tourist numbers are down, but also because we made an effort to be at places when they opened in order to catch the best light, and miss the crowds. The huge, imposing gate at Medinet Habu lead to a tremendous courtyard, where the highlight was the colour. It was astonishing to think that so many hues remained from so many thousands of years ago, protected from the weather and still intact. The beautiful blue stripes at the top of the columns were particularly lovely. We wandered around, mostly left to ourselves, although one guard did point out a carving of the victorious Pharaoh cutting off the hands of his enemies. 

The immense entrance gate at Medinet Habu, Luxor West Bank

Less intact part of Medinet Habu, Luxor West Bank

Repeated life symbols, Medinet Habu, Luxor West Bank

Admiring the pillars, Medinet Habu, Luxor West Bank

Detailed cartouche at the top of the column, Medinet Habu, Luxor West Bank

Sunlight catching the gorgeous blues, Medinet Habu, Luxor West Bank

Taking a break amongst the grandeur, Medinet Habu, Luxor West Bank

Remarkable example of winged sun disk design on the roof, Medinet Habu, Luxor West Bank

Beautiful, warm morning light, Medinet Habu, Luxor West Bank

A line of baboons, Medinet Habu, Luxor West Bank

Pharaoh holing a tiny figure in his hand, Medinet Habu, Luxor West Bank

Magnificent columns, Medinet Habu, Luxor West Bank

Rendering of a bull, Medinet Habu, Luxor West Bank

Good old Ramses III, Medinet Habu, Luxor West Bank

Collecting the hands of the captured enemy, Medinet Habu, Luxor West Bank

Rich momentarily became obsessed with searching for treasure around the ruins, and did come up with a couple of old pottery bits which he subsequently left on a wall. There is so much ancient "stuff" hanging around the West Bank that would probably be noteworthy in any other situation, but in Egypt where there is so much antiquity everywhere, it's just more rubble.

Searching for treasure, Medinet Habu, Luxor West Bank

The results!

The Mortuary Temple of Seti I was recommended as a scarcely visited place of calm, and we found it to be just that. Seti I was an important king in his own right during the 19th dynasty. His reign was sandwiched between two other mighty leaders- his father Ramses I, the first of the Ramessids, and his son, Ramses II, said to be the greatest ever Pharaoh. The main hall of his funerary temple was badly splattered by what looked like bird droppings, a sad indicator that no one cared, or could afford to upkeep the once magnificent room. Although in general the temple's state was less intact and imposing than Medinet Habu, the early morning light on the warm stone glowed pleasingly, and once we got rid of the guard, we were able to explore the ruins in peace. 

Warm morning glow, Seti I Mortuary Temple, West Bank, Luxor

Pharaoh wearing the double crown, Seti I Mortuary Temple, West Bank, Luxor

Vulture in relief, Seti I Mortuary Temple, West Bank, Luxor

Pleasing shadows, Seti I Mortuary Temple, West Bank, Luxor

Temple with blue skies, Seti I Mortuary Temple, West Bank, Luxor

Inscriptions on the temple exterior, Seti I Mortuary Temple, West Bank, Luxor

Lotus flower offerings, Seti I Mortuary Temple, West Bank, Luxor

Staircase to no-where, Seti I Mortuary Temple, West Bank, Luxor

A surprising sight came when a family of foxes showed themselves and raced around the temple, slightly scared of us, but nonetheless busy and lively. 

Fox at Seti I Mortuary Temple, West Bank, Luxor

Perhaps the best part of the day was strolling back by the canal, and through a tiny village with residents tending to the sugarcane crop and the eternally downtrodden looking donkeys resting in the shade. Gently friendly, the offers of shai (tea) from people were many, as were the shy smiles and tentative hellos. Sometimes scenes of every day life in the real world are more rewarding than ancient wonders and memories of grandeur. 

Quiet canal street, West Bank, Luxor

Local shai stall worker, West Bank, Luxor

Curious boy in blue doorway, West Bank, Luxor

So many cute children, West Bank, Luxor

Man and his son, West Bank, Luxor

Rare shot of a local woman! West Bank, Luxor

Kitten drowsy in the sun, West Bank, Luxor

A list of entrance fees in Luxor (we found it difficult to find current prices when we were researching where to visit). All price are in Egyptian pounds (£1 = 21LE)

East Bank

Luxor Temple 160

Karnak Temple 200

West Bank

Medinet Habu 100

Deir-al Medina (Worker's Village), including Hathor Temple 100

Tombs of the Nobles, between 40 and 60 for a group of three

Valley of the Kings 240 for three tombs

Valley of the Queens 100, Tomb of Nefatari an extra 1,400!!!!

Al-Deir Al-Bahari (Hatshepsut) 140

Temple of Seti I 60

Ramesseum 80

We got around almost entirely with public transport. This was easy and very cheap. Each public minibus ride around the West Bank was 2 LE each. Bike hire was 50 LE for 24 hours, with an excellent selection of bicycles.

Morning shadow on the winged sun disk, Medinet Habu, Luxor West Bank

Row of once grand figures, Medinet Habu, Luxor West Bank

Close up of a wee frog relief, Medinet Habu, Luxor West Bank

.......next up we get acquainted with some tombs on Luxor's West Bank........