GOING UNDERGROUND- Luxor West Bank, Egypt

.........our previous explorations around West Bank funerary temples of the Pharaohs......

Beautiful Goddess Hathor, Deir-al Medina, Luxor West Bank

Vaguely remembering being impressed with the Worker's Village (or Deir-al Medina) on our last visit, we needed to refresh our brains with a repeat inspection. The site was quiet and atmospheric, seemingly out in the middle of no-where, when actually it was only a short walk from the ticket office. Remains of the worker's houses were on one side of the desert gully and the hills where their tombs were located were on the other. This place was home to the many artisans/craftsmen and their families who worked on the creative parts of the king's tombs. When they were planning their own resting places, they decorated them beautifully beforehand with realistic displays of family, home and the land, rather than the grand battles and religious scenes from the Pharaoh's tombs. 

In ancient times, it took around 70 days to physically prepare a royal body for the afterlife. This involved the removal of organs (except the heart), embalming and mummification. The body was then surrounded by personal riches and possessions and was ready for the spiritual journey. The soul was then taken by a mystical boat along a river, where various Gods would be met who would help with the adventure. Twelve gates were encountered where trials were undergone in order to enter the Underworld, including battles, fire breathing serpents and fiery lakes. The most important test, however, was the weighing of the heart- if it was light and pure, entry to the next gate was ensured. After the trials the soul would be reborn as the sun. Much of the detailed paintings and inscriptions inside tombs and funerary temples reflected this story. We were interested in what the Afterlife process was for mere mortals, but found it difficult to discover information on the topic. Many of the non-royal tombs also contained images of the journey described above, so some of the elements may have been the same. 

View of the remains of the worker's village, Deir-al Medina, Luxor West Bank

Please excuse the bad photo quality, God Ra on the Underworld boat

Woman with a lion, Deir-al Medina, Luxor West Bank

We loved the detailed folds on the musician's stomach, Deir-al Medina, Luxor West Bank

Unusual painting with a woman's upper body holding a globe, Deir-al Medina, Luxor West Bank

We experienced an annoyance at Deir-al Medina, as we did in some other tombs in the West Bank. When we had entered the first tiny underground room accompanied by the guard, he informed us we needed to pay another 300 LE in order to take photos. Assuming a scam, we argued until it came to light photos taken with a mobile device were allowed for free (that makes total sense!!) So, we did our best with Sal's crappy phablet camera, but felt irritated that we had paid an entrance fee, and were then asked to pay three times that again simply to take pictures. It didn't help that, after looking at the three tombs that were open, we wanted to wander around the rest of the site along the many paths, but after half an hour were yelled at that it was forbidden. 

Inside a tomb, Deir-al Medina, Luxor West Bank

Sal with Anubis preparing the dead body, Deir-al Medina, Luxor West Bank

The tombs themselves were simply delightful, with scenes of animals, trees and family. The details were spectacularly detailed- the patterned skirt of a wife, the spots on a tiger skin. Underground and stuffy, we spent as long as we could absorbing the paintings, before emerging once more into the cool morning air. 

Amongst the most common Gods portrayed in the tombs was Anubis, the black Jackal-headed God who helped the soul after death. He role was all about the final journey- from mummification, embalming, the afterlife, and most importantly taking souls into the Underworld.

Human figure with God Ra and a lovely little cow, Deir-al Medina, Luxor West Bank

Young boy in a tiger skin holding birds, Deir-al Medina, Luxor West Bank

Triple Anubis painting, Deir-al Medina, Luxor West Bank

Family scene, Deir-al Medina, Luxor West Bank

Wonderful floor to ceiling representation of Anubis helping the dead with the journey to the Underworld

The small Hathor Temple on site was a delightful surprise. Perhaps lacking overall grandeur, the scenes in the three interior rooms were simply sublime. The carvings showed interesting items such as baboons, other-worldly boats, scarab beetles and the fertility God Min with quite an impressive erection! We cottoned on to a good solution of the habit the guards had, following us and prattling on about things in order to secure a bit of baksheesh to augment their pathetic wages. We simply interrupted their spiel straight away and politely requested to be allowed to look around in silence in order to enjoy the peace of the place. Seemed to work a treat.

After wondering why the Goddess Hathor appears in so many carvings and paintings in temples and tombs in Luxor, we subsequently read she was thought to have crossed boundaries between the living and the dead, and could therefore help with the journey to the afterlife. Other Gods that served similar roles in death were Anubis, Mut, Osiris, Thoth and Horus.

Exquisite detail, Hathor Temple, Deir-al Medina, Luxor West Bank

Taking in the beauty, Hathor Temple, Deir-al Medina, Luxor West Bank

Splendid relief, Hathor Temple, Deir-al Medina, Luxor West Bank

Inside a small chapel within the temple, Hathor Temple, Deir-al Medina, Luxor West Bank

Impressive display from the fertility God Min, Hathor Temple, Deir-al Medina, Luxor West Bank

After the morning at the Worker's Village we got chatting to a wise older gentleman from the adjacent village. A simple and gentle farmer, his outlook on world events surprised us. He told us he tried to listen to as many points of view about issues in order to develop his perspectives. He was most interested to talk with us about the "vaccine". We took mint tea with him in his garden, and he told us the three health advantages to living in Upper Egypt (we have paraphrased him). One, the sun is healing and the heat helps to keep away disease. Secondly, there is plenty of space and fresh air. And lastly, village people don't eat processed food, only what is grown organically by themselves. We left feeling hopeful that someone with such a simple life could have such a sophisticated global outlook.

An offering to Hathor, Hathor Temple, Deir-al Medina, Luxor West Bank

Hathor Temple, Deir-al Medina, Luxor West Bank

The second, and greatly contrasting tombs we were to visit were that of the Valley of the Queens. Again, the first visitors on the site, we were able to appreciate another impressive setting within the desert wadi. Unfortunately, the scene was also not quite hidden enough in ancient times, and as a result, was one of the most plundered sites on the West Bank. 

A reference to some of the main Egyptian deities

The Pharaoh in his glorious stripy headdress, Valley of the Queens, Luxor West Bank

Young prince recognizable by his hair and skirt, Valley of the Queens, Luxor West Bank

Gods and mortals holding hands, Valley of the Queens, Luxor West Bank

Buying our ticket, the friendly seller asked if we wanted the extra ticket to enter Queen Nefatari's Tomb. We asked the price, and our minds were blown when he said 1,400 LE each, and that for only a 10 minute visit inside. This roughly equivalent to £70 each!! We will never know what was inside the tombs (although we searched for images online, and it did look beautiful), but it would be hard to imagine it could be worth that entrance fee. 

Although more than 100 tombs have been discovered at the Valley of the Queens, only three tombs were currently open for viewing. These housed some family members of Ramses III, he of the mortuary temple, Medinet Habu (mentioned in our last blog post). One was a lesser wife, and the other two his sons. The first thing we noticed was the ease of access of these tombs, we simply walked in with no stairs, narrow corridors, or low roofs. The second thing was the glass panelling that been erected to protect the wonderful reliefs. While it's understandable why it had been put there, the state of glass was so filthy, it was difficult to make out some sections, and near impossible to take a decent photo. Added to that was the many missing lights, and the experience was somewhat spoiled. Having said that, the actual decorations were simply gorgeous, especially in the son Amunherkhepeshf's tomb. The quality of the carvings and colours were astoundingly clear. Scenes of the transition into the Underworld were filled with symbology, with Gods holding the hands of the royalty to lead the way to the Afterlife. We were able to distinguish the young prince by his bald head, special style of skirt and hair lock. The transparent white garments worn by the royals and the detail on the patterns of the clothes and hair were just beautiful.

Ram-headed God Khnum, Valley of the Queens, Luxor West Bank

The terrible glass and lighting inside the tombs, Valley of the Queens, Luxor West Bank

Pharaoh and son with Goddess Hathor, Valley of the Queens, Luxor West Bank

Amunherkhepeshf buried within the tomb, Valley of the Queens, Luxor West Bank

Osiris, a deity connected with the Afterlife, Valley of the Queens, Luxor West Bank

We particularly appreciated the spotted blouse, Valley of the Queens, Luxor

Straining to see the reliefs, West Bank, Luxor

Down the road from the Valley of the Queens, looking back at Medinet Habu, Luxor West Bank

Towards the end of December, there was a change in the weather and although the days were always sunny, bright and warm, we felt the considerable drop from highs of 30 degrees to low 20s. Evening temperatures plunged, and we chose to stay inside most nights and keep warm. Our balcony continued to be bathed in glorious sunshine from dawn until mid-afternoon, and we fell into the habit of waking at sunrise and retiring to bed very early. 

Passing vessels from our balcony

Our staple diet relied on local seasonal (and incredibly cheap) Egyptian fare- lots of fresh salads, eggs galore, salty cheese, yoghurt, ful (beans), fresh wholemeal bread and plenty of garlic, onion and fresh coriander. Vegetable soups were consumed most evenings. Strawberries and bananas were about the only fruits we ate, but our regular glasses of orange and sugar cane juice kept up the daily intake. People who know us might  be surprised at the mostly vegetarian fare- it actually wasn't intentional here, it was just what was available, and we didn't really feel we were missing out on anything. When the need for meat made itself known now and again, we splurged on a ridiculously large BBQ chicken meal, which actually kept us in food for three days!

Enough for a banquet- and that's without the six pieces of bread!

We maintained contact with our local neighbourhood, finding out short cuts through the back streets to avoid the boat men and taxis, and enjoying some longer walks through the fields and narrow dusty lanes behind our accommodation. In some ways, strolling around those areas felt like stepping back in time, with people going about their lives as they probably would have done hundreds of years ago- men in galabiyyas (long robes) and scarves on their heads, and women covered from head to toe, seemingly with dozens of children to a family. Donkey carts passed us on the path, goats and cows were being tended to in fields watered from the Nile. Simple mud brick homes were surrounded by banana and sugar cane fields.

Typical mud house, Luxor West Bank

Pretty pots, Luxor West Bank

So many village cats, Luxor West Bank

Village buffalo, Luxor West Bank

Fancy panted gate, Luxor West Bank

Village scene, Luxor West Bank

Little munchkins, Luxor West Bank

A basic village home

A list of prices for the various sights around Luxor, we will include this at the end of each Luxor post for reference:

East Bank

Luxor Temple 160

Karnak Temple 200

West Bank

Medinet Habu 100

Deir-al Medina (Worker's Village), including Hathor Temple 100

Tombs of the Nobles, between 40 and 60 for a group of three

Valley of the Kings 240 for three tombs

Valley of the Queens 100, Tomb of Nefatari an extra 1,400!!!!

Al-Deir Al-Bahari (Hatshepsut) 140

Temple of Seti I 60

Ramesseum 80

We got around almost entirely with public transport. This was easy and very cheap. Each public minibus ride around the West Bank was 2 LE each. Bike hire was 50 LE for 24 hours, with an excellent selection of bicycles.

.............the last of the sights and sounds on Luxor's West Bank........

FOXY TIMES IN ANCIENT THEBES - Luxor West Bank, Egypt

........the beginning of our Luxor stay, in the bustle of the East Bank......

Stunning reliefs at Medinat Habu, Luxor West Bank

After a week or so in Luxor, we exchanged the rush of the East Bank, for the relaxed vibe of the West Bank. Over the past few years, the area directly across the river from Luxor Temple known as Ramla, has been become home to more and more long term travellers and ex-pats. We found an apartment by asking around, and ended up smack bang on the banks of the Nile, in a superb position in which to enjoy the activity of the river. We were able to spend hours watching the huge number of vessels ferrying people back and forth between the East and West banks of Luxor, as well as bigger boats traversing up and down the Nile to further away destinations. Sunrise was directly in front of our balcony, rather pleasingly rising over Luxor Temple, and sunset could be viewed from the rooftop terrace over the fields and hills of the Pharaoh's burial places, the Nile side full of romantic feluccas serenely sailing by. 

Felucca watching from our balcony, Luxor West Bank

Short tour of our Luxor West Bank apartment

It was difficult not to compare our first apartment in Egypt with the many we had stayed in in the Balkans for the last couple of years. We had found in Albania, Serbia and Montenegro, apartments always came with kitchen basics, such as oil, salt, sugar, coffee and tea, and whatever else had been left by previous tenants. Usually, the host would also leave a little treat for us. Bathrooms came with soap, washing detergent, and cleaning products, and there was always a mop and a broom. None of those things were provided here, so we had to start from scratch. Having said that, we were also paying a slightly lower price. 

The lack of noise from early morning vegie sellers, mosques or street arguments (all of which were common on the East side) was bliss. Donkey carts were more common outside our place than motorised vehicles. The apartment was relatively luxurious and way too big for us, but we enjoyed having a basic kitchen for meals, and some space and peace. 

Sunrise from our balcony

The main "town" on the West Bank was a one street affair next to the ferry crossing, leading to the ancient sights, and a five minute walk from our quiet dusty lane. The one greengrocers shop received various fruits and vegies at different times of the week, so we would take pot luck on what was fresh that day. Mostly we were able to take advantage of super cheap and seasonal produce. It wasn't so important for us to find a good cafe and place to eat here, as we had our kitchen at home. But we made it a daily routine to sit at the juice stall with a 5 LE/£0.20 asab (sugar cane juice) or 10 LE/£0.50 orange juice, and watch the busy centre activity. Mr Sudani, a modest and tiny grocery shop served our needs for various bits and pieces to round out our meals.

After a few days, the dozens of calls to us on our way between home and the main street diminished, as the men from the boats and taxis got to recognize us and know that we weren't interested in their services. One guy even said, "I know you will say no, but I have to ask. You understand?"

But a few of the hundreds of Egyptian Gods and Goddesses

Knowing we had a long stay in Luxor, we decided to choose a different site to visit every few days. This worked out well, as we could have a really good scout around and absorb what we were seeing, and take some time to process the context (and the photos!) in the following days. 

Luxor was known as Thebes in ancient times, and the West Bank was the necropolis for royalty, noblemen and their craftsmen during the New Kingdom (1539- 1075 BC), when the powerful rulers began to build extravagant tombs and mortuary temples for themselves and their families. The city's fortunes rose and fell, with the height of the wealth and power coming during the reign of Amenhotep III, again during Seti I's rule, as well as his son Ramses II and a little further down the family tree, Ramses III, the last great pharaoh. 

This is where we started- at  Medinet Habu, the wonderfully grand funerary temple of Ramses III, the first Pharaoh of the 20th dynasty. Ramses' career mostly involved defending Egypt from Libyans, Nubians and other invaders in several wars. Later in his life, he turned his attentions to his creations at Karnak and Medinet Habu. The latter temple was dedicated to Amon, a God and cult figure amongst royalty at Thebes.

After jumping out of the public minibus before 7am, and buying our tickets at the office that served for most of the "lesser sites", we enjoyed the early morning light strolling to the ancient site through the sleepy village of Kom Lolah with it's simple mud brick houses. 

Local resident of Kom Lolah, near Medinat Habu

The temple was completely empty, apart from the usual desperate wanna-be guides. We found this to be true at every location we visited on the West Bank. Partly because tourist numbers are down, but also because we made an effort to be at places when they opened in order to catch the best light, and miss the crowds. The huge, imposing gate at Medinet Habu lead to a tremendous courtyard, where the highlight was the colour. It was astonishing to think that so many hues remained from so many thousands of years ago, protected from the weather and still intact. The beautiful blue stripes at the top of the columns were particularly lovely. We wandered around, mostly left to ourselves, although one guard did point out a carving of the victorious Pharaoh cutting off the hands of his enemies. 

The immense entrance gate at Medinet Habu, Luxor West Bank

Less intact part of Medinet Habu, Luxor West Bank

Repeated life symbols, Medinet Habu, Luxor West Bank

Admiring the pillars, Medinet Habu, Luxor West Bank

Detailed cartouche at the top of the column, Medinet Habu, Luxor West Bank

Sunlight catching the gorgeous blues, Medinet Habu, Luxor West Bank

Taking a break amongst the grandeur, Medinet Habu, Luxor West Bank

Remarkable example of winged sun disk design on the roof, Medinet Habu, Luxor West Bank

Beautiful, warm morning light, Medinet Habu, Luxor West Bank

A line of baboons, Medinet Habu, Luxor West Bank

Pharaoh holing a tiny figure in his hand, Medinet Habu, Luxor West Bank

Magnificent columns, Medinet Habu, Luxor West Bank

Rendering of a bull, Medinet Habu, Luxor West Bank

Good old Ramses III, Medinet Habu, Luxor West Bank

Collecting the hands of the captured enemy, Medinet Habu, Luxor West Bank

Rich momentarily became obsessed with searching for treasure around the ruins, and did come up with a couple of old pottery bits which he subsequently left on a wall. There is so much ancient "stuff" hanging around the West Bank that would probably be noteworthy in any other situation, but in Egypt where there is so much antiquity everywhere, it's just more rubble.

Searching for treasure, Medinet Habu, Luxor West Bank

The results!

The Mortuary Temple of Seti I was recommended as a scarcely visited place of calm, and we found it to be just that. Seti I was an important king in his own right during the 19th dynasty. His reign was sandwiched between two other mighty leaders- his father Ramses I, the first of the Ramessids, and his son, Ramses II, said to be the greatest ever Pharaoh. The main hall of his funerary temple was badly splattered by what looked like bird droppings, a sad indicator that no one cared, or could afford to upkeep the once magnificent room. Although in general the temple's state was less intact and imposing than Medinet Habu, the early morning light on the warm stone glowed pleasingly, and once we got rid of the guard, we were able to explore the ruins in peace. 

Warm morning glow, Seti I Mortuary Temple, West Bank, Luxor

Pharaoh wearing the double crown, Seti I Mortuary Temple, West Bank, Luxor

Vulture in relief, Seti I Mortuary Temple, West Bank, Luxor

Pleasing shadows, Seti I Mortuary Temple, West Bank, Luxor

Temple with blue skies, Seti I Mortuary Temple, West Bank, Luxor

Inscriptions on the temple exterior, Seti I Mortuary Temple, West Bank, Luxor

Lotus flower offerings, Seti I Mortuary Temple, West Bank, Luxor

Staircase to no-where, Seti I Mortuary Temple, West Bank, Luxor

A surprising sight came when a family of foxes showed themselves and raced around the temple, slightly scared of us, but nonetheless busy and lively. 

Fox at Seti I Mortuary Temple, West Bank, Luxor

Perhaps the best part of the day was strolling back by the canal, and through a tiny village with residents tending to the sugarcane crop and the eternally downtrodden looking donkeys resting in the shade. Gently friendly, the offers of shai (tea) from people were many, as were the shy smiles and tentative hellos. Sometimes scenes of every day life in the real world are more rewarding than ancient wonders and memories of grandeur. 

Quiet canal street, West Bank, Luxor

Local shai stall worker, West Bank, Luxor

Curious boy in blue doorway, West Bank, Luxor

So many cute children, West Bank, Luxor

Man and his son, West Bank, Luxor

Rare shot of a local woman! West Bank, Luxor

Kitten drowsy in the sun, West Bank, Luxor

A list of entrance fees in Luxor (we found it difficult to find current prices when we were researching where to visit). All price are in Egyptian pounds (£1 = 21LE)

East Bank

Luxor Temple 160

Karnak Temple 200

West Bank

Medinet Habu 100

Deir-al Medina (Worker's Village), including Hathor Temple 100

Tombs of the Nobles, between 40 and 60 for a group of three

Valley of the Kings 240 for three tombs

Valley of the Queens 100, Tomb of Nefatari an extra 1,400!!!!

Al-Deir Al-Bahari (Hatshepsut) 140

Temple of Seti I 60

Ramesseum 80

We got around almost entirely with public transport. This was easy and very cheap. Each public minibus ride around the West Bank was 2 LE each. Bike hire was 50 LE for 24 hours, with an excellent selection of bicycles.

Morning shadow on the winged sun disk, Medinet Habu, Luxor West Bank

Row of once grand figures, Medinet Habu, Luxor West Bank

Close up of a wee frog relief, Medinet Habu, Luxor West Bank

.......next up we get acquainted with some tombs on Luxor's West Bank........