LAST OF THE MONTENEGRIN WINE - Belgrade and Utjeha, Serbia and Montenegro

.........out previous post about out train travels north through Montenegro......

It's been brought to out attention it's been a couple of months since our last post, and the reason for that is quite simple. We have been having a rather quiet time, and there's not been a lot to write about! Anyway, this is a small update of our modest movements for September and October in the Balkans......

The Sun Hostel in Belgrade has been one of our havens since we came to the Balkans a year and a half ago, and we have stayed there on and off during this time.  We were extremely lucky to discover it immediately upon our arrival in July 2020, and have absolutely loved our time there, become friends with the wonderful staff, and meeting more than a few interesting characters in the outside courtyard. It's been a great base in the area, and we have really loved the social time, as a contrast to the Air B and B type places we have stayed in where we enjoy our own company more. It's been interesting to see it's character transform from a hostel with no backpackers during last year's lockdowns, to a local party place during the winter, and different again on our return in August. We'd never really seen it as a normal functioning hostel, and it was now full of mostly young, mostly European backpackers who were flitting about the Balkans for the summer. With the odd long term traveller and the migrants passing through from "east" to "west", it was a lovely mix and we enjoyed many varied conversations.

Spomenik to victims of a Zemun Nazi concentration camp, Belgrade, Serbia

Some of the gang, Sun Hostel, Belgrade, Serbia

Belgrade was busier than ever, seemingly back to normal, and we loved the bustle of life on the city streets and in the markets. Most of August was blistering hot, and we took advantage of the Lido beach on the Danube to stay cool (see this previous blog post for details). When the temperature dropped weirdly at the end of the month, we were glad we had decided to return to Montenegro for the remainder of the summer.

Typical apartment block, Belgrade, Serbia

Renovated old railway station, Belgrade, Serbia

Quirky building detail, Belgrade, Serbia

In our last blog post we described our train journey back to Belgrade from the coast of Montenegro, where we sensibly decided to do it gradually and break up the otherwise extremely long trip. However, returning to Montenegro, we thought it would be a good idea to try the night train from Topcider in Belgrade to Bar on the coast of Montenegro all in one go. Added to this was our decision to try the "seat only" option, and save the 30 euros that was charged for two sleeper class tickets. Needless to say, it was extremely tiring, and although the seats were soft and comfortable, after 13.5 hours, we were quite fed up. We must be starting to get old!!! We were surprised to find the train quite full, with local people still holidaying in September. 

We were relieved to alight the train upon arrival in Montenegro, and after a short bus ride along the coast, we were back at Utjeha where we had spent a week or so in July. We had contacted the owner of the apartment we had previously stayed in, on the off chance we could stay for the whole month of September. Not only was it available, and an incredible price, he upgraded us to the top floor apartment which was double the size of our previous stay and had a massive balcony with a panoramic view of the Adriatic Sea!

Happy to be back at the beach, Utjeha, Montenegro

We were pleased to find Utjeha village still busy with local tourists, although nothing like the crowds present in July. Our favourite little produce stall was still open, although the fruits had moved on from berries to stone fruits and figs, which we happily partook in. We caught up on sleep after our long journey (and too many late nights at the Sun Hostel!). Temperatures were absolutely perfect- hot enough in the day for swimming in the sea, and cool enough at night not to need the AC, and sleep wonderfully. We were happy for the month, spending our days in our favourite little bay, afternoons in serious planning sessions for upcoming travels, and evenings catching up on current news and watching movies. 

A day trip was made to Stari Bar, the old part of Bar town, inland from the busy port area. We were expecting a deserted ruined place, but actually there was a substantial village there, a few streets leading to the castle filled with tourist restaurants, and a magnificent fort area. The place was peaceful on the cloudy day we chose to visit, leaving us alone to explore the ruins and enjoy the expansive views to the sea. The magnificent aqueduct was vital to the town's history, and was destroyed once during Ottoman rule, and again after a terrible earthquake in 1979. Old Bar was subsequently abandoned as the water supply was cut off, but was rebuilt both times as the aqueduct was repaired. 

Golden autumn light, Old bar, Montenegro

Misty morning at Old Bar, Montenegro

Sunlight spilling in on stone floor, Old Bar, Montenegro

Views of old wall, Old Bar, Montenegro

Taking in the scenery, Old Bar, Montenegro

Exploring hidden nooks and crannies, Old Bar, Montenegro

Entering the fortifications, Old Bar, Montenegro

Preserved walls within fort, Old Bar, Montenegro

Impressive aqueduct, Old Bar, Montenegro

Lonely chair, Old Bar, Montenegro

Loads of these lovely purple flower out, Old Bar, Montenegro

Looking out to the old part of Bar, Montenegro

Eventually, the time came to leave our little piece of paradise, and get back out into the real world, and face whatever was to come next. On the way back to Serbia, there was no doubt we would take the sleeper class on the train after our experience coming down!! Upon embarking, we were extremely excited to find we had a whole little cabin to ourselves, with comfortable bunks, clean sheets and blankets, plenty of lights and even a basin in the corner. It appeared to be an old German carriage, but was clean and still up to carrying passengers. There was some slight trepidation at the first stop on the Serbian side of the border, as we were unable to produce the required PCR test Serbia (and the rest of the Balkans) now required. But typically for the Balkans, the immigration officer simply shrugged her shoulders and stamped our passports anyway, and we continued on our journey to Belgrade.

A short video of our space on the train

Video of the train bathroom

Interesting graffiti on the side of the Bar to Belgrade train, Bar, Montenegro

Our spiffy compartment on the Bar to Belgrade train

Happy to be on the move!

October in Belgrade was spent trying to put our ideas for further travel into operation. Sal's application for a new passport held up proceedings somewhat, but before long we had made some travel decisions from the increasingly limited options available to us, and put a new plan into action. 

The world is shrinking for the likes of us- people who just want to be free to travel and have control over our own bodies and minds. But we were determined not to be negative, and find a way to continue our lifestyle, even if it wasn't exactly the same as what we might be doing in an unrestricted world.

Goodbye to another Summer!

.........our decision to spend some time in Egypt, and how we got there.......