SO LONG SERBIA! - Kraljevo and Nis, Serbia

.........previous blog post about Uzice in south west Serbia.......

Sal amongst the saints, Zica Monastery, Kraljevo, Serbia

Our little route around southern Serbia

Although Kraljevo was just supposed to be a pit stop for a few days on our train trip to Nis, we instantly liked the town, and wished we'd arranged to stay a bit longer. The center was wholly pedestrian, filled with vibrant cafes and eateries, all leading to the magnificently lively town "square" which was actually a unique circular shape. When the heat of the day subsided, locals descended there to meet friends, stroll around with ice cream, or watch their kids riding around on scooters, and we happily joined in the throng. Our room was in a prime spot directly opposite the central market, where we sought out the last of the season's raspberries for breakfasts and were pleasantly surprised how much cheaper produce was here than in Belgrade.

Center of Kraljevo in the evening

Well, what can we say? Kraljevo, Serbia

The obligatory beach area in Kraljevo was a simple grassy park fronting the Ibar River, with just a couple of showers and toilets and a few cafes. There were sun loungers for sun bunnies, and lovely big trees and cold drinks for shade lovers (that was us- the heat in Kraljevo was intense!)

Relaxing shady cafe by the Ibar River, Kraljevo, Serbia

Different tastes! Kraljevo, Serbia

Chilled scene by the river, Kraljevo, Serbia

The monastery in the forest we had hoped to visit on a day trip was off limits thanks to the access bridge being washed away, so we consoled ourselves with one closer to Kraljevo- Zica Monastery. We didn't have any expectations at all, and were surprised to discover a beautiful and elegant 13th century structure, with a striking red colour and immaculate gardens. It was a protected monument, and recent efforts in upkeep gave it a tidy and cared for feeling, without damaging the ancient character. No photos were allowed inside, so we were unable to capture the interior frescos. It seemed very popular with locals, and the resident nuns even had a small shop selling homemade wines and beauty products.

Window at Zica Monastery, Kraljevo

Checking out the frescos, Zica Monastery, Kraljevo

Nuns residence and gardens, Zica Monastery, Kraljevo

Faded painting on exterior, Zica Monastery, Kraljevo

Gate to nun's residence, Zica Monastery, Kraljevo

Old grave stones, Zica Monastery, Kraljevo

Entrance to Zica Monastery, Kraljevo

Beautiful grounds, Zica Monastery, Kraljevo

Frescos at Zica Monastery, Kraljevo

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Another scenic train trip brought us to Nis, a large city in the far south east of Serbia. Thick forested hillsides contrasted with depressing areas with large disused factories and warehouses. All the Serbian trains we experienced were fantastic- clean, punctual and well priced. Buses in Serbia were much more expensive than trains, so we planned our trip around our favourite mode of transport! It was easy to just turn up at the station before the journey and buy a ticket, although perhaps in busier times it may have been necessary to purchase days before. The other thing we loved was that there were no seat numbers- we just sat where we liked. The trains were all nearly empty, so we had a large choice.

Modern Serbia train

The cleanest toilet we've ever seen on a train! 

The weirdest thing we learnt about Nis was that the roman Emperor Constantine The Great was born here in 272. Apparently no less than 17 Roman Emperors were born in Serbia! Anyway, these days, Nis has a different feel to it than the other places we visited in Serbia. It was much more ethnically diverse, and no where was that more apparent than the rough and ready central market. Many Romani hung out around the town in big scruffy family groups, sending their little toddlers out to beg on the streets. Others rode through town on horse and carts. We don't know much about their situation within society in Serbia, but it looked pretty dire.

Nis had a massive central pedestrian space with dozens of cafes and eateries, statues and benches. It was all a bit tatty, but pleasant to sit and people watch with a coffee or beer.

Photo on a grave, Nis, Serbia

Bright church, Nis, Serbia

Advertisements in town, Nis, Serbia

The massive and well preserved fortress of Nis may have lacked the grand views of the fort in Belgrade, but the parkland inside was lush and shady, and plenty of Byzantine-era ruins still stood (albeit covered in graffiti and filled with rubbish- there often wasn't much respect here for ancient monuments).

Old monument! Nis Fortress

Jazz mural, Nis Fortress

Outside a Byzantine ruin, Nis Fortress

The intriguing monument park, Bubanj was on our list to see, and after a hard slog uphill in 30+ degree heat, we made it through the forest park to a huge clearing with three monumental statues of clenched fists, representing the more than 10,000 people killed by occupying German forces around Nis during World War 2. The socialist style memorials, designed and built in 1963, were a powerful commemoration.

Sal dwarfed by the monuments, Nis, Serbia

Bubanj, Nis, Serbia

We had a fantastic apartment to stay in in Nis, with a full kitchen and plenty of room. All our rooms in Serbia were about 1700 dinar/£13 on average, and apart from the hostel room in Belgrade, were all mini apartments in handy locations and included bathrooms, little kitchens and balconies.

Kitchen in our Nis apartment

Our Nis apartment

In normal times choosing our next destination after Serbia by looking at the exotic names on the map would be a fun decision. Would we be tempted by Budapest or Sofia or enticed by Zagreb? There were, after all, eight countries surrounding Serbia! However, during this current time the only border open to us (or so we thought), was North Macedonia. We had travelled south in Serbia in order to cross here by train and continue our journey overland. However, we hit a bit of a stumbling block when we tried to leave Nis and were disappointed to find, not only were the trains across the border not running, neither were the buses. We had no choice but to return to Belgrade to sort out another option.

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When we left Belgrade and the cocoon of the Sun Hostel, we didn't really connect much with many Serbian people. In the capital most people spoke at least some English, but the barrier was great elsewhere. People seemed tentative to talk with us, maybe because they were shy of their language skills- although it was us that should have been embarrassed at knowing so little Serbian, really. Occasionally someone would approach to ask where we were from, and people certainly helped us if we needed it. Language, combined with their natural reserve created a situation for us of travelling around without being connected deeply with the place. This contrast was really obvious on our subsequent return to Belgrade, which seemed incredibly friendly in comparison, with strangers having the confidence to speak with us in English all the time, even if it was just a few words.

People say Serbia is cheap. They're comparing it to Western Europe. Prices in general weren't as rock bottom as South East Asia or Central Asia, but obviously it seemed pleasantly affordable after being stuck in the UK for so long. We had to pick and choose a bit what we did and where we visited, and although we didn't see everything Serbia had to offer (that was never going to happen!), we felt satisfied that we had a good taster of the place, and had left plenty to see on our return visit (that's inevitable). Thank you Serbia!!

Random tap in backyard, Belgrade

Kneza Mihaila, Belgrade

Richard wondered why he had a croissant on his face?!

........next, we arrive in Albania- a brand new country for us.......