FROM THE ROUGH TO THE SMOOTH PART 1- Margeb, Sughd Province, Tajikistan

....previously in Dushanbe, Tajikistan.....

Arriving at the share taxi area in Dushanbe, we were astounded amongst the crowd to see the friendly face of the driver who had brought us there a couple of weeks earlier. We were very happy to once again take a ride with him, as he was careful and cheerful. After the spectacular trip back to Sarvoda, he helped us with the lengthy negotiations with another taxi driver to get to our next destination along the Yagnob Valley. The first part of the trip was a squeeze to say the least. Unfortunately, four large people were in a seat meant for three, and the extremely huge-bottomed woman next to (and on) Sal nearly crushed her ribs and legs. Rich was still high on his drugs, chattering away happily and snapping photos out of the window, seemingly oblivious of the mashed conditions. Luckily everyone else got out half way, and we had the whole taxi, and the dazzling gorgeous valley to look at out the windows.

Views from the share taxi, Dushanbe to Sarvoda, Tajikistan

View from taxi window, Dushnabe to Sarvoda, Tajikistan

A break in the mountains was just what we needed after our stressful time in Dushanbe. The tiny village of Margeb felt somewhat more remote than the other villages we had visited in Tajikistan, although in reality it was only a one and half drive hour from the highway. As we bumped along the rough road up the Yagnob Valley, the scenery quickly became breathtaking and culminated at beautiful Margeb.

Entering Yagnob Valley, Tajikistan

Driving the adventurous road to Margeb, Tajikistan

Massive rugged mountains with pointy pinnacles surrounded the village, and in literally every direction we looked was another jaw-dropping view. There was an overwhelming feeling of being encroached upon by the steep slopes all around. It may be the most stunningly scenic place we have ever been to and the scale of the natural beauty was incredible.

Margeb house and mountain backdrop, Tajikistan

Early sun on Zaminkaror, Margeb, Tajikistan

One shy, one not, Margeb, Tajikistan

Along the path, Margeb, Tajikistan

Exploring the hills, Margeb, Tajikistan

Entering Margeb was honestly like stepping back in time. People here were poor and lived in rustic houses that were mainly of basic stone and wood construction. It had a more of a "primitive" feeling, which added to the sense of isolation and other worldliness. Enormous boulders were dotted about, and had been built around and brought into the basic traditional architecture.
Many houses had piles of what we thought were either dried animal manure or cut peat for fuel piled up out the front- something we hadn't see here before. What was missing was the livestock. In Central Asia, cows, sheep and yaks are taken up to jailoos (pastures) during the summer months, to graze on the lush grass freely. Apparently Margeb has a large population of yaks, which we would have loved to have seen.

Typical building, Margeb, Tajikistan

This one was used as a shed, Margeb, Tajikistan

Boulders incorporated into the buildings, Margeb, Tajikistan

Happy to pose for us!

Moody on the mountain, Margeb, Tajikistan

Following the trails, Margeb, Tajikistan

The sheer 2250 meter Zaminkaror rock stood as an awe inspiring backdrop to the village and was, bizarrely, the focus of a yearly rock climbing competition. It was very difficult to imagine the tiny village being over run with participants from around the world. But it may account for the open expressions on people's faces upon seeing us. None of the shyness or turning away as had been the norm up until now, but also not spoiled by tourism. Locals beamed and waved, and we had to almost run the gauntlet through the village center as kids asked for their photos to be taken and posed for us. The only thing they wanted was to see the picture before running off in hysterics. As a result of all this, we immediately took to Margeb.

The huge Zaminkaror rock in Margeb village

View from our guesthouse, Margeb

What a backyard!

Characterful buildings in Margeb village, Tajikistan

So adorable!

Traditional Tajik clothes, Margeb, Tajikistan

Not a happy chappy! Margeb

Another cutie, Margeb, Tajikistan

Gorgeous view, Margeb, Tajikistan

Our lovely afternoon stroll path, Margeb, Tajikistan

Bread making afternoon, Margeb

 As Rich was not quite 100% yet, we took it easy, enjoying valley walks to points of extreme beauty in every direction. A series of idyllic apricot orchards were dotted along a lush outcrop overlooking stunning valley views, and made a fantastic rest point. Margeb was quite green, not just with the large number of fruit orchards, but with grasses and shrubby bushes covering the hillsides. During our walks we identified juniper, rose-hip and blackthorn. Water was present everywhere from the small canals through the village, streams and big gushing rivers running down from the snowy mountain tops.
We took naps in the middle of the day, a habit we haven't been practising for a while. It was all relaxing and conducive to his recovery. After a few days, he really felt restored and properly on the mend.

The green house, Margeb

Road to more remote villages, Margeb, Tajikistan

Lonely pink flower, Margeb, Tajikistan

Sundown over Margeb, Tajikistan

As usual in Tajikistan, tons of apricots everywhere

Juniper bush, Margeb, Tajikistan

Gushing river through Margeb, Tajikistan

Margeb was quite high altitude, but we were nevertheless surprised at the cool temperatures. It was a shady part of the valley due to huge mountains looming all around. While this was beautiful, the breeze did funnel through. When it drizzled for an hour or so each day we were there, it became quite chilly. It was hard to believe it could be this cool in August, and we dreaded to imagine what it must be like in mid-winter.

Waiting for our 6am breaky!, Margeb, Tajikistan

Old Margeb building, Tajikistan

Stunning child, Margeb, Tajikistan

Standing in her garden, Margeb, Tajikistan

Morning sunlight across the valley, Margeb, Tajikistan

The village had a lovely herby aroma from a bushy shrub locals were all harvesting and drying out- presumably for animal feed during the winter. It made a nice change from the wafting smell coming from the pit toilets in other villages (having said that, the smell in the actual toilet room was as bad as ever!).

Overloaded donkeys carrying nice smelling shrub, Margeb, Tajikistan

Lovely!

Sunrise walk, Margeb, Tajikistan

Little sweetie, Margeb, Tajikistan

Valley view, Margeb, Tajikistan

The only downside to the stay was the rather basic conditions at the homestay. We were fine with sleeping on mattresses on the floor (covered with piles of doonas!), using the ubiquitous smelly pit toilet and the shower that was a dribble at best. After all, in Tajikistan, it is normal to accept such no-frills conditions in order to stay in such a unique location. We did expect more for dinner than a small bowl of soup with one tiny potato and a sliver of carrot, and some mouldy, inedible bread. When we compared it with somewhere like our Shing homestay, where we were spoiled with an huge array of dishes and foods covering the table, it was disappointing. But the owner was so magnanimous, and we were more mesmerised by the views than anything, and got over it. And actually, when we paid the bill, he decided to throw the dinner in for free!

Farm buildings, Margeb, Tajikistan

Along the high street, Margeb, Tajikistan

A cluster of houses, Margeb, Tajikistan

An afternoon stroll, Margeb, Tajikistan

No one told us the aliens were coming!

As in Veshab, it was a very busy time in Margeb village- the wheat harvest. From first thing in the morning we spotted people and donkeys in the distance traipsing up and down the hills, cutting their wheat and ambling back again, all day long. The effect of this on us, was that the regular shared taxi was in use for harvest work, and wasn't running for a few days. So we had to enter surprisingly tough negotiations with a driver from a nearby village. He eventually arrived the following morning, and the ride out of the village was quite magical in the morning light. He played some loud and hypnotic local music, and he and his friend jabbered away in the front seat, while we simply gazed at the glory of the valley.
A short video of the special trip

Scenic rest point (as was everywhere), Margeb, Tajikistan

Feeling better, Margeb, Tajikistan

Majestic mountains, Margeb, Tajikistan

Last rays of sun, Margeb, Tajikistan

.....more in Sughd province in Part 2 of this blog.....