.....previously in Nepal, Dhulikhel and Panauti.....
Our arrival into Boudhanath involved an extremely tricky squeezing and pushing manoeuvre to disembark one of the most crowded buses we've ever been on- it was a good thing us and our bags were reasonably near the door, otherwise it would have been an impossible feat. Once off, we negotiated the slippery mud bath of a highway to the more calm back streets of the town.
Historically, Boudhanath has always been an important link between Tibet and Nepal. Once located on the major trading route from Lhasa and Kathmandu, it's now home to descendants of Tibetans who have been here for centuries, and well as refugees from the time of China's invasion.
The huge white stupa has been re-built many times over the centuries since the original AD 600 structure, but it has retained a feeling of grandeur and importance. The giant famous eyes looked down from the top four sides of the stupa and supposedly represent the all seeing wisdom of Buddha.
Every day, all day, devotees from all over come here to ritually circumnavigate the building, spinning the thousands of prayer wheels situated around the base of the stupa as they go. The crowds were almost overwhelming, and non-stop- there was no lingering in the middle of the path to watch the scene or take photos! Luckily, around the edge were seating areas in order to watch the spectacle without being crushed.
Some pilgrims had spin prayer wheels in their hands, many chanted mantras as they walked, and other were simply chatting to friends. The strangest part for us was the inner part of the circle, where people stretched out on long wooden boards on the ground and prostrated themselves over and over again, in what looked like some kind of penance. A few shaven headed women were doing the same thing outside amongst the crowds- two steps forward, then down on their knees and stomach with arms stretched out, then stand again, and repeat.......for hours.
I quite like this explanation about how to use a stupa.
The people watching was absorbing, with all sorts of folk represented. The Tibetan ladies in their bright aprons stood out, as did the variety of monks from different parts of the world, and a few Westerners gone native studying dharma (at least for a few weeks).
The shops surrounding the stupa were all catering to pilgrims, with practical items on sale along with the religious paraphernalia.
Sal immediately loved it and felt a massive energy from the thousands of pilgrims walking around the stupa. Rich was a bit more sceptical and wasn't sure if the feeling was completely genuine.
Although the numbers of Tibetans in Nepal is relatively small, they are a high profile people. Their plight leaving China in the 1950's and their striking culture make them instantly recognizable. Interestingly, they have a large role in tourism in Nepal, with many hotels and restaurants being owned or run by Tibetans.
Boudhanath was the first places we really saw beggars in Nepal. It was obvious they were there as a result of the huge numbers of religious devotees and the many hand-outs, but it was still a bit of a shock. Some with deformities sat near the stupa hoping to catch people on their rounds feeling generous, and other down and outs roamed (and lived on) the back streets. Many were filthy little children, some with their whole families begging.
Boudhanath town is chock a block with gompas- temples, mostly with monasteries and other religious buildings included in the grounds. We were mostly free to visit and look around respectfully, but often not allowed to take photos. This was a shame, as many of the gompas were richly decorated inside with colourful murals, paintings and thangkas (wall hangings). Early in the morning we caught a few Buddhist prayer sessions going on. Monks were hypnotically chanting and slowly striking the gong, occasionally increasing in speed with sudden energy and blowing on great long horns, only to settle back into the drone again afterwards. We did wonder if all the money used to build these innumerable lavish gompas could be better spent, but, hey, that's religion for you.
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The buses in Nepal were somewhat of an adventure. For the most part they were stinky, filthy old bangers, with very little leg room. They were as slow as hell, constantly stopping and starting to pick up loads of loud shouting people with bags and baskets full of goodies. The worst part by far was the God-awful pop music played at a seriously ear splitting volume on an invariably crappy sound system. The combination of high-pitched female screeching and a bass line that made us feel like our brains were going to fall out, had us making makeshift earplugs from tissues when it got particularly bad! Whichever one of us sat on the aisle seat and often had boobs in our faces, or people leaning or sitting on our shoulders, or digging bags into our kidneys. Women here didn't seem to mind contact with men on the buses- perhaps it's just impossible to avoid! An added bonus was when someone would invariably begin spewing and the whole bus will fill with the aroma of vomit. It really felt like travelling in India in the old days.
Having said all that, we did become somewhat used to the conditions, and began to enjoy aspects of the bus journeys. The bus boys and drivers were unfailingly kind and friendly to us, and generally the drivers were not too manic, mostly quite sensible and cautious. And, of course, the scenery on most trips just stunning. We were certainly not in a hurry, and appreciated the slow pace.
As a side note- there were some destinations where a very expensive tourist bus was available, but we chose to keep the costs down and go local.
Food, in the main, was predictable. Outside of Kathmandu and Pokhara, the choices were limited, usually to momos (dumplings filled with various fillings) and chowmein (noodles with a few scattered vegetables). We did quickly become sick of both, although Sal had the most amazing potato and cheese momos in Boudhanath which completely changed her mind!!
Dal bhat was an option in the day in basic restaurants sometimes, and usually the only option in home stays. We both really loved this thali-like plate of rice, various curries and pickles, and enjoyed the contrasting styles at different places.
The "all you can eat" aspect was great after being out walking in the day. The unusual chiura, or beaten rice, sometimes comes with Newari style dal baht, and although it wasn't to our taste, it was interesting to try something new.
Sometimes Tibetan dishes were available such as thukpa (noodle soup) and laping, (a cold noodle dish), especially in locations with large Tibetan populations, such as Boudhanath. We skipped the salty Tibetan butter tea, after trying it once in Rawalsar Lake in India, and finding it revolting.
Nepalese samosa are the best ever, in our opinion, and luckily available almost everywhere. We often scoffed one or two as an easy breakfast or snack.
A funny experience in a small village saw us ordering breakfast, and receiving a julebi in between two puri breads. Julebis are super sweet, deep fried gooey sweets which explode with oil and sugar in your mouth when you bite into them. Combined with the deep fried and greasy puri bread as a sandwich, we couldn't think of a more unappetizing breakfast. Needless to say, we declined and chose a samosa and tea instead!
A cheap local meal with non-alcoholic drinks would cost us around 300 rupees/AU$3.75 for the two of us, and a more Western meal at a restaurant in Pokhara or Kathmandu would be closer to 700 rupees/AU$8.75.
Grapes were our fruit addiction of choice (there wasn't much choice, to be honest).
Our accommodations in Nepal were very hit and miss. The price we paid didn't necessarily match the level of comfort involved. Our cheapest room was 500 rupees/AU$6, and perfectly nice and clean with a piping hot shower, and the most expensive was 1500 rupees/AU$18, and wasn't particularly clean and had no hot water. The best room without a doubt was our cosy, clean and comfortable retreat in Pokhara town, where we waited for the weather to warm up to continue our travels. That was 1100 rupees/AU$13, for pure luxury!!! One odd characteristic in Nepal hotels was consistently being given only one towel in our rooms, even after requesting another.
The weather slowly but surely became warmer during our three months between January and April. But it was still very inconsistent, and there were many rainy, cloudy, misty, foggy and cold days. This was a surprise, considering the monsoon season was not supposed to officially start until June! We absolutely wouldn't travel in Nepal again in January and February because of the weather. The coldness wasn't the primary problem- it was more the damp days and lack of visibility, in conjunction with the cold and the lack of basic comforts like hot water. The upside was that we did feel we had a completely different experience in many places due to the lack of other tourists around in the off season. It's hard to say if it balanced out.............
Although we knew the weather back in South east Asia would probably be hideously hot and humid, we found ourselves pleased to be returning to a comfortable and familiar place- Bangkok.
Our arrival into Boudhanath involved an extremely tricky squeezing and pushing manoeuvre to disembark one of the most crowded buses we've ever been on- it was a good thing us and our bags were reasonably near the door, otherwise it would have been an impossible feat. Once off, we negotiated the slippery mud bath of a highway to the more calm back streets of the town.
Historically, Boudhanath has always been an important link between Tibet and Nepal. Once located on the major trading route from Lhasa and Kathmandu, it's now home to descendants of Tibetans who have been here for centuries, and well as refugees from the time of China's invasion.
 |
| The eyes have it, Boudhanath |
 |
| Praying devotedly, Boudhanath |
 |
| Boudhanath pigeons (they are fed) |
The huge white stupa has been re-built many times over the centuries since the original AD 600 structure, but it has retained a feeling of grandeur and importance. The giant famous eyes looked down from the top four sides of the stupa and supposedly represent the all seeing wisdom of Buddha.
Every day, all day, devotees from all over come here to ritually circumnavigate the building, spinning the thousands of prayer wheels situated around the base of the stupa as they go. The crowds were almost overwhelming, and non-stop- there was no lingering in the middle of the path to watch the scene or take photos! Luckily, around the edge were seating areas in order to watch the spectacle without being crushed.
 |
| In charge of butter candles, Boudhanath |
 |
| Circumnavigating the stupa, Boudhanath |
 |
| Two of the faithful, Boudhanath |
 |
| The grand stupa, Boudhanath |
Some pilgrims had spin prayer wheels in their hands, many chanted mantras as they walked, and other were simply chatting to friends. The strangest part for us was the inner part of the circle, where people stretched out on long wooden boards on the ground and prostrated themselves over and over again, in what looked like some kind of penance. A few shaven headed women were doing the same thing outside amongst the crowds- two steps forward, then down on their knees and stomach with arms stretched out, then stand again, and repeat.......for hours.
 |
| Ringing the bells, Boudhanath |
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| Devotees, Boudhanath |
 |
| Man with small prayer wheel, Boudhanath |
 |
| Tibetan lady, Boudhanath |
 |
| People prostrating themselves, Boudhanath |
I quite like this explanation about how to use a stupa.
The people watching was absorbing, with all sorts of folk represented. The Tibetan ladies in their bright aprons stood out, as did the variety of monks from different parts of the world, and a few Westerners gone native studying dharma (at least for a few weeks).
 |
| All sorts of dress, Boudhanath |
 |
| Pilgrims, Boudhanath |
 |
| Tibetan lady, Boudhanath |
 |
| Taking a break, Boudhanath |
The shops surrounding the stupa were all catering to pilgrims, with practical items on sale along with the religious paraphernalia.
 |
| Pilgrims shopping place, Boudhanath |
Sal immediately loved it and felt a massive energy from the thousands of pilgrims walking around the stupa. Rich was a bit more sceptical and wasn't sure if the feeling was completely genuine.
 |
| One of many "holy" men, swapping prayers for money, Boudhanath |
 |
| Lined up for business, Boudhanath |
Although the numbers of Tibetans in Nepal is relatively small, they are a high profile people. Their plight leaving China in the 1950's and their striking culture make them instantly recognizable. Interestingly, they have a large role in tourism in Nepal, with many hotels and restaurants being owned or run by Tibetans.
Boudhanath was the first places we really saw beggars in Nepal. It was obvious they were there as a result of the huge numbers of religious devotees and the many hand-outs, but it was still a bit of a shock. Some with deformities sat near the stupa hoping to catch people on their rounds feeling generous, and other down and outs roamed (and lived on) the back streets. Many were filthy little children, some with their whole families begging.
 |
| Monks hoping for some money, Boudhanath |
 |
| Handouts everywhere, Boudhanath |
 |
| One of many dubious "monks" with piles (and bags full of) money, Boudhanath |
Boudhanath town is chock a block with gompas- temples, mostly with monasteries and other religious buildings included in the grounds. We were mostly free to visit and look around respectfully, but often not allowed to take photos. This was a shame, as many of the gompas were richly decorated inside with colourful murals, paintings and thangkas (wall hangings). Early in the morning we caught a few Buddhist prayer sessions going on. Monks were hypnotically chanting and slowly striking the gong, occasionally increasing in speed with sudden energy and blowing on great long horns, only to settle back into the drone again afterwards. We did wonder if all the money used to build these innumerable lavish gompas could be better spent, but, hey, that's religion for you.
 |
| Lavish interior, Boudhanath gompa |
 |
| Giant holy figure, Boudhanath gompa |
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| Monks in reds and gold, Boudhanath gompa |
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The buses in Nepal were somewhat of an adventure. For the most part they were stinky, filthy old bangers, with very little leg room. They were as slow as hell, constantly stopping and starting to pick up loads of loud shouting people with bags and baskets full of goodies. The worst part by far was the God-awful pop music played at a seriously ear splitting volume on an invariably crappy sound system. The combination of high-pitched female screeching and a bass line that made us feel like our brains were going to fall out, had us making makeshift earplugs from tissues when it got particularly bad! Whichever one of us sat on the aisle seat and often had boobs in our faces, or people leaning or sitting on our shoulders, or digging bags into our kidneys. Women here didn't seem to mind contact with men on the buses- perhaps it's just impossible to avoid! An added bonus was when someone would invariably begin spewing and the whole bus will fill with the aroma of vomit. It really felt like travelling in India in the old days.
Having said all that, we did become somewhat used to the conditions, and began to enjoy aspects of the bus journeys. The bus boys and drivers were unfailingly kind and friendly to us, and generally the drivers were not too manic, mostly quite sensible and cautious. And, of course, the scenery on most trips just stunning. We were certainly not in a hurry, and appreciated the slow pace.
As a side note- there were some destinations where a very expensive tourist bus was available, but we chose to keep the costs down and go local.
 |
| Complete and utter false advertising! |
 |
| Typical Nepal bus |
 |
| Inside Nepal bus (that Tartan again!) |
Food, in the main, was predictable. Outside of Kathmandu and Pokhara, the choices were limited, usually to momos (dumplings filled with various fillings) and chowmein (noodles with a few scattered vegetables). We did quickly become sick of both, although Sal had the most amazing potato and cheese momos in Boudhanath which completely changed her mind!!
 |
| Momo heaven, Boudhanath |
Dal bhat was an option in the day in basic restaurants sometimes, and usually the only option in home stays. We both really loved this thali-like plate of rice, various curries and pickles, and enjoyed the contrasting styles at different places.
 |
| Dal bhat in Pokhara restaurant |
 |
| Home stay dal bhat |
The "all you can eat" aspect was great after being out walking in the day. The unusual chiura, or beaten rice, sometimes comes with Newari style dal baht, and although it wasn't to our taste, it was interesting to try something new.
 |
| Dal bhat with chiura rice |
Sometimes Tibetan dishes were available such as thukpa (noodle soup) and laping, (a cold noodle dish), especially in locations with large Tibetan populations, such as Boudhanath. We skipped the salty Tibetan butter tea, after trying it once in Rawalsar Lake in India, and finding it revolting.
 |
| Thukpa soup |
Nepalese samosa are the best ever, in our opinion, and luckily available almost everywhere. We often scoffed one or two as an easy breakfast or snack.
 |
| Preparing samosas |
A funny experience in a small village saw us ordering breakfast, and receiving a julebi in between two puri breads. Julebis are super sweet, deep fried gooey sweets which explode with oil and sugar in your mouth when you bite into them. Combined with the deep fried and greasy puri bread as a sandwich, we couldn't think of a more unappetizing breakfast. Needless to say, we declined and chose a samosa and tea instead!
A cheap local meal with non-alcoholic drinks would cost us around 300 rupees/AU$3.75 for the two of us, and a more Western meal at a restaurant in Pokhara or Kathmandu would be closer to 700 rupees/AU$8.75.
Grapes were our fruit addiction of choice (there wasn't much choice, to be honest).
 |
| Aloo parotha (potato bread) for breakfast |
 |
| Raja (beans) and aloo jeera (our favourite potato dish), Kathmandu |
 |
| Sal's fav- samosa masala- a mess, but tastes so good!! |
 |
| Our western picnic complete with local cheese and wine, Pokhara |
Our accommodations in Nepal were very hit and miss. The price we paid didn't necessarily match the level of comfort involved. Our cheapest room was 500 rupees/AU$6, and perfectly nice and clean with a piping hot shower, and the most expensive was 1500 rupees/AU$18, and wasn't particularly clean and had no hot water. The best room without a doubt was our cosy, clean and comfortable retreat in Pokhara town, where we waited for the weather to warm up to continue our travels. That was 1100 rupees/AU$13, for pure luxury!!! One odd characteristic in Nepal hotels was consistently being given only one towel in our rooms, even after requesting another.
 |
| Our lovely homestay in Tansen |
 |
| The grand looking (only from the outside!!) hotel in Gorkha |
 |
| Our favourite room (with the sun streaming in!) in Pokhara |
 |
| Kathmandu room |
The weather slowly but surely became warmer during our three months between January and April. But it was still very inconsistent, and there were many rainy, cloudy, misty, foggy and cold days. This was a surprise, considering the monsoon season was not supposed to officially start until June! We absolutely wouldn't travel in Nepal again in January and February because of the weather. The coldness wasn't the primary problem- it was more the damp days and lack of visibility, in conjunction with the cold and the lack of basic comforts like hot water. The upside was that we did feel we had a completely different experience in many places due to the lack of other tourists around in the off season. It's hard to say if it balanced out.............
Although we knew the weather back in South east Asia would probably be hideously hot and humid, we found ourselves pleased to be returning to a comfortable and familiar place- Bangkok.
Those packed pilgrim trails are visceral, and ideally captured through videography, by using a super wide (14mm) focal length, whilst walking and pointing the lens at oneself (so as not to draw attention) so it captures the entire anthropological phenomena, which includes at its center the participant observer.
ReplyDeleteSo to clarify previous blurb. Employ an ultra wide angle lens of 14mm on full framed sensor.
ReplyDeleteThe writing is really detailed and complete, though there are some photographs that if made into a 10 second video clip might embellish the text. Here is my humble list: praying devotedly; people prostrating; preparing samosa. I know the whole video thing is a hassle but I noticed you do post on utube so thought some reader feedback on that endeavor might be useful. Appreciate your documentation on lives and of place.
ReplyDelete