.....previous post is from West Sumatra, Indonesia.....
After a busy couple of weeks in Cambridge sorting out all those things that are difficult to pursue from overseas (most importantly a new passport for Rich), as well as catching up with Richard's fabulous family, we embarked on a very different journey for us.
Fortuitous circumstances enabled us to indulge in a long held dream of a romantic train trip around Scotland. It was to be a once in a lifetime experience for us, and for a change we were able to step the comfort up a notch or three, instead of our usual basic level of travel.
Armed with our fantastic one third off UK rail card, we had pre-booked train tickets in advance to keep the costs surprisingly low. We planned to visit Richard's kids on opposite sides of Scotland, and in-between travel on as many of the Scottish train lines as we could in three weeks. The trip took us to Edinburgh, up the east coast to Aberdeenshire, Perth in the central region, then on the scenic rail trip from Glasgow to Fort William and Mallaig. After that we took the train line out west to Plockton, then all the way up to Wick and Thurso in the north. A stop in Dingwall, back to Inverness, then all the way back to Cambridge completed the train trip.
The most eventful day (and the very first day!) on the trains saw us being stuck on a huge bridge coming into Newcastle, with the gale force winds of a huge storm rocking us alarmingly from side to side. We were then advised our train to Edinburgh was cancelled due to the same winds, and had four hours of waiting in Newcastle train station. We happened to have brought a flask full of malt whisky with us, and it was a lifesaver in terms of keeping us warm and keeping our spirits quite high! (The consequent opening of another bottle helped even more!) Some buses were eventually arranged, but as there weren't enough seats for people, we had to use our "getting on the bus in India" skills and push our way to the front of the line. There was no way we were missing out on the swanky hotel we had booked in Edinburgh!!
Of course, the trains weren't as exciting as in most countries we travel to, and to be honest some were quite filthy, and others very late or cancelled. (A side note- we were able to collect all or part of the fares for all late and cancelled trains, making the trip even cheaper!) But they had great big windows and comfortable seats for us to sit back and look out at the amazing scenery. Unfortunately, for the most famously scenic of the trips (Glasgow to Fort William and Mallaig) we had atrocious weather with rain and wind, and the views weren't as good as they could have been, but we still enjoyed the experience immensely. The autumn colours of the deciduous trees through the countryside were stunning to view on mass from the train. Wild life spotted included flocks of migratory geese, grouse, swans, roe and red deer, seals, and one lovely fox.
The weather was very changeable, as would be expected and after all, one never goes to Scotland for sunshine! It's safe to say we had almost every kind of weather during our three weeks in Scotland, from warm sunshine, calm days, annoying drizzle, cloud, gale force winds, freezing cold dark mornings, sleet.....but luckily no snow (although there was snow on the hills in some places). Add to that the occasional cold and horizontal rain, that wasn't the most pleasant! But, there were a few sunny days in amongst the dreich ones, and we persevered with our daily outings.
Days were spent walking and exploring. Edinburgh was incredible with the old city soaring high and the majestic skyline full of spires, castles, and turrets. It was an incredible place to discover, and we only scratched the surface with Dean village, the Water of Leith walkway, old Georgian residential streets, secret private gardens, ancient graveyards and views galore at every turn. A beer or three over a catch up with an old friend in a proper Edinburgh pub was an added bonus to the day.
Aberdeenshire is famously grim and drab due to it's grey granite buildings, but when out of the big towns, the cattle farming areas and small villages are charming and picturesque. We loved the sunny, yet cold days- spending much of our travels in hot places, we really appreciate bracing fresh air! We wandered around fishing boats at the harbour, along the coast, around scenic lakes, along pretty rivers and even found some standing stones and an ancient abbey. Hanging out with family and catching up (and eating a lot!) was also a treat, of course.
In Perth we made the most of the gorgeous sunny weather and walked along the grand tree lined River Tay for the afternoon, loving the historic old beauties on either side (buildings, that is!).
Unfortunately, during the train trip from Glasgow to Fort William along Loch Lomod-side and Ranoch Moor, the weather turned drizzly and grey. We still braved the outdoors for a walk up Glen Nevis. Watching the crazies tramping up in the mist towards Ben Nevis we were happy we'd settled for viewing the massive gushing waterfalls and forests down below. Rich was amazed at the differences from when he was first in the area 50 years ago!!
An impressive, but gut churning bus journey along the famous Loch Ness brought us to Inverness, where we then got back on the train. This gorgeous train trip took us west to Plockton, made famous in the TV show Hamish Macbeth. We loved exploring the impossibly quaint and tiny village with it's little white houses and walks around with picture perfect views. Our B and B in Plockton was run by a comic-ly grumpy old couple, but it was the end of the season and they were probably completely tired from a hectic tourist season, so we didn't let it bother us.
It didn't seem the weather could get any worse, but Wick and Thurso showed us it was possible! The wildest day out was on our day trip to Thurso from Wick. Sal was not impressed with the gale force winds that had us bent over double trying to walk along the coast, our bodies literally being blown around, way too close for comfort to the cliffs where we were walking. The grey, grim and empty towns added to the gloomy feeling. Things improved down at Wick harbour- a historically interesting area and at one time the biggest herring port in the world. Sal's record of seven layers of clothing occurred in Wick.
A short attempt at a video conveying the atmosphere on our wild and windy walk to Thurso Castle
Dingwall and Strathpeffer, an old Victorian spa town, were a breath of fresh air, with ornate traditional mansions, grand gardens, splendid trees lined streets and our best walk of the trip through farm land and quaint villages. That is one of the best things about travelling in the UK- the many picturesque country walks complete with signposts and access through woods and private properties.
By the time we arrived in Ullapool (a diversion by bus, as there's no train line there), there was snow on the hills, and we were happy to hang out with family indoors, play board games and keep warm. A brief forest walk for fresh air and exercise was welcome, but a hot drink and warmth of a home was equally tempting!
The last stop of Inverness saw us staying in a hotel literally joined onto the train station, which was extremely handy, and we indulged in a high tea with a backdrop of the stunning central staircase (as one does!). A stunning riverside walk completed the sightseeing, and we were back to England the following day.
Perhaps for some people the style of travel we experienced in Scotland is quite normal, but it's hard to imagine how sumptuous it was for us, in comparison with our normal digs when we're travelling around. To stay in lovely, sparkling clean and supremely comfortable lodgings and eat pretty much what we wanted every day was an absolute luxury. The downside was the extreme expense (compared to what we are used to), which forced us to stay a much shorter time in places than we would have liked. A day here, two days there, was not how we are used to travelling, and we had to be happy with a quick look around many places.
To make the trip special we put in some effort beforehand to find accommodation that was either railway related, characterful or historic in some way. The splendid faded grandeur of the big railway hotels in Edinburgh, Perth and Inverness contrasted with the old bank guesthouse in Wick and the fanciful old church school building in Fort William. The grandiose (on the outside) historic hotel in Ullapool varied from the unbeatable seaside views from our room in Plockton and the beautifully thoughtful B and B rooms in Peterhead, Fort William and Dingwall.
The highlight, though, had to be Edinburgh, where we had booked the cheapest room in a glorious, once opulent, but now elegantly faded railway hotel. After the drama to get to Edinburgh, we were delighted to be upgraded to a magnificent room with a view overlooking Princes Street and the old town, with a marble bathroom, the biggest bed we've ever had and all the trimmings to go with it. This sort of thing NEVER happens to us and we revelled in it! Lying in bed watching the full moon rise over the Scott Monument, and having a bagpiper playing on the street under our window one afternoon were the definite highlights! Not sure how Rich set up that one, but it was magical!
The lavish full Scottish breakfasts that were included in our hotel and B and B rooms were ridiculously large. The toast, eggs, sausage, bacon, tomato, mushrooms and baked beans on our plates were joined by the Scottish additions of black pudding, haggis and potato scones! That's not to mention the cereals, yoghurt, fruit, oat cakes and home made preserves also on offer. Needless to say, we were filled to the brim for the entire day. If we could squeeze it in, dinner was usually either at a Wetherspoons pub, or a picnic from the supermarket. Our specially purchased vacuum flask was a fantastic idea (as was the hip flask!), and we loved our cuppas on the train as the views wizzed past. Completely unused to so much rich food, though, we both felt completely overstuffed at the end of our journey, and went off food in general. A side note......cannot believe how many crisps are consumed by the Brits, and in Scotland every second person was drinking Irn-Bru. Haggis is now trendy, and available in every form, including on pizzas and in paninis.
Whether it was on a train, in a shop or a pub, we loved the Scot's friendly attitude and chatty nature. Sal was perplexed to understand a hell of an accent whilst eavesdropping in a Peterhead pub, and Rich, even having lived in Scotland for 20 years, was equally at a loss!
For us, though, the trip all became too much towards the end of our three weeks in Scotland- the fast pace, planned days and big breakfasts became exhausting! Our usual leisurely pace of exploring places and having as much time as we want is much more our style. Although it will be difficult to come back down to earth from what was like an extravagant dream !!
....our adventures continue in Nepal......
After a busy couple of weeks in Cambridge sorting out all those things that are difficult to pursue from overseas (most importantly a new passport for Rich), as well as catching up with Richard's fabulous family, we embarked on a very different journey for us.
Fortuitous circumstances enabled us to indulge in a long held dream of a romantic train trip around Scotland. It was to be a once in a lifetime experience for us, and for a change we were able to step the comfort up a notch or three, instead of our usual basic level of travel.
Armed with our fantastic one third off UK rail card, we had pre-booked train tickets in advance to keep the costs surprisingly low. We planned to visit Richard's kids on opposite sides of Scotland, and in-between travel on as many of the Scottish train lines as we could in three weeks. The trip took us to Edinburgh, up the east coast to Aberdeenshire, Perth in the central region, then on the scenic rail trip from Glasgow to Fort William and Mallaig. After that we took the train line out west to Plockton, then all the way up to Wick and Thurso in the north. A stop in Dingwall, back to Inverness, then all the way back to Cambridge completed the train trip.
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| All set, ready to go! |
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| Quiet station at Perth |
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| View from the train on a sunny day........ |
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| ....and a not so bright view from the train |
The most eventful day (and the very first day!) on the trains saw us being stuck on a huge bridge coming into Newcastle, with the gale force winds of a huge storm rocking us alarmingly from side to side. We were then advised our train to Edinburgh was cancelled due to the same winds, and had four hours of waiting in Newcastle train station. We happened to have brought a flask full of malt whisky with us, and it was a lifesaver in terms of keeping us warm and keeping our spirits quite high! (The consequent opening of another bottle helped even more!) Some buses were eventually arranged, but as there weren't enough seats for people, we had to use our "getting on the bus in India" skills and push our way to the front of the line. There was no way we were missing out on the swanky hotel we had booked in Edinburgh!!
Of course, the trains weren't as exciting as in most countries we travel to, and to be honest some were quite filthy, and others very late or cancelled. (A side note- we were able to collect all or part of the fares for all late and cancelled trains, making the trip even cheaper!) But they had great big windows and comfortable seats for us to sit back and look out at the amazing scenery. Unfortunately, for the most famously scenic of the trips (Glasgow to Fort William and Mallaig) we had atrocious weather with rain and wind, and the views weren't as good as they could have been, but we still enjoyed the experience immensely. The autumn colours of the deciduous trees through the countryside were stunning to view on mass from the train. Wild life spotted included flocks of migratory geese, grouse, swans, roe and red deer, seals, and one lovely fox.
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| One of many cancelled or late trains |
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| Pastoral views from the train |
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| Famous Glenfinnan viaduct on the Mallaig line, taken from the train- an atrocious day for the journey |
The weather was very changeable, as would be expected and after all, one never goes to Scotland for sunshine! It's safe to say we had almost every kind of weather during our three weeks in Scotland, from warm sunshine, calm days, annoying drizzle, cloud, gale force winds, freezing cold dark mornings, sleet.....but luckily no snow (although there was snow on the hills in some places). Add to that the occasional cold and horizontal rain, that wasn't the most pleasant! But, there were a few sunny days in amongst the dreich ones, and we persevered with our daily outings.
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| Approaching sheets of rain, Glen Nevis |
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| Lone tree on a dreich day |
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| Sun in the glen, snow on the tops, Ullapool |
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| A dramatic rainbow, Plockton at dusk |
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| Keeping warm on a cold sunny day |
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| Fun in the autumn leaves, Perth |
Days were spent walking and exploring. Edinburgh was incredible with the old city soaring high and the majestic skyline full of spires, castles, and turrets. It was an incredible place to discover, and we only scratched the surface with Dean village, the Water of Leith walkway, old Georgian residential streets, secret private gardens, ancient graveyards and views galore at every turn. A beer or three over a catch up with an old friend in a proper Edinburgh pub was an added bonus to the day.
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| Outlook on Edinburgh |
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| Dean village, Edinburgh |
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| Water of Leith walkway, Edinburgh |
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| Morning sunshine, Edinburgh |
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| Mouldering headstone, Edinburgh graveyard |
Aberdeenshire is famously grim and drab due to it's grey granite buildings, but when out of the big towns, the cattle farming areas and small villages are charming and picturesque. We loved the sunny, yet cold days- spending much of our travels in hot places, we really appreciate bracing fresh air! We wandered around fishing boats at the harbour, along the coast, around scenic lakes, along pretty rivers and even found some standing stones and an ancient abbey. Hanging out with family and catching up (and eating a lot!) was also a treat, of course.
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| Standing stones, Aberdeenshire |
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| Peterhead Harbour, small fishing boats |
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| Under the bridge, Aberdeenshire |
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| Aberdeenshire vista |
In Perth we made the most of the gorgeous sunny weather and walked along the grand tree lined River Tay for the afternoon, loving the historic old beauties on either side (buildings, that is!).
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| Magical Perth at dusk |
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| Ye old gravestone, Perth |
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| Ye old plonker amongst the heather, Perth |
Unfortunately, during the train trip from Glasgow to Fort William along Loch Lomod-side and Ranoch Moor, the weather turned drizzly and grey. We still braved the outdoors for a walk up Glen Nevis. Watching the crazies tramping up in the mist towards Ben Nevis we were happy we'd settled for viewing the massive gushing waterfalls and forests down below. Rich was amazed at the differences from when he was first in the area 50 years ago!!
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| View down Glen Nevis, Fort William |
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| Mist rolling in, Fort William |
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| Mesmerizing burn, Fort William |
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| Old stream train, Mallaig |
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| A fisherman and his scallops, Mallaig |
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| Wall art at Mallaig harbour |
An impressive, but gut churning bus journey along the famous Loch Ness brought us to Inverness, where we then got back on the train. This gorgeous train trip took us west to Plockton, made famous in the TV show Hamish Macbeth. We loved exploring the impossibly quaint and tiny village with it's little white houses and walks around with picture perfect views. Our B and B in Plockton was run by a comic-ly grumpy old couple, but it was the end of the season and they were probably completely tired from a hectic tourist season, so we didn't let it bother us.
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| From the bus, a fleeting glimpse of Urquhart Castle, Loch Ness-side |
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| It was a bit chilly! |
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| Moody light, Plockton |
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| View from our B and B garden |
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| Plockton village |
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| Traditional thatched house, Plockton |
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| Prawn creels, Plockton |
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| Cute little bay, Plockton |
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| From one of Plockton's many gardens |
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| Dramatic autumn colours, Plockton |
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| Colourful islands, Plockton |
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| Old boat, Plockton |
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| Baby highland coo |
It didn't seem the weather could get any worse, but Wick and Thurso showed us it was possible! The wildest day out was on our day trip to Thurso from Wick. Sal was not impressed with the gale force winds that had us bent over double trying to walk along the coast, our bodies literally being blown around, way too close for comfort to the cliffs where we were walking. The grey, grim and empty towns added to the gloomy feeling. Things improved down at Wick harbour- a historically interesting area and at one time the biggest herring port in the world. Sal's record of seven layers of clothing occurred in Wick.
A short attempt at a video conveying the atmosphere on our wild and windy walk to Thurso Castle
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| Thurso castle |
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| Wick harbour |
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| Giant wind turbine blades, Wick |
Dingwall and Strathpeffer, an old Victorian spa town, were a breath of fresh air, with ornate traditional mansions, grand gardens, splendid trees lined streets and our best walk of the trip through farm land and quaint villages. That is one of the best things about travelling in the UK- the many picturesque country walks complete with signposts and access through woods and private properties.
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| Sal on style |
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| Walk between Dingwall and Strathpeffer |
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| Gorgeous autumn colours |
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| Tiny fungi |
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| Last of the dandelions |
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| Fat robin on the fence |
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| Imposing old house, Strathpeffer |
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| Strathpeffer town square |
By the time we arrived in Ullapool (a diversion by bus, as there's no train line there), there was snow on the hills, and we were happy to hang out with family indoors, play board games and keep warm. A brief forest walk for fresh air and exercise was welcome, but a hot drink and warmth of a home was equally tempting!
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| Ullapool waterfront |
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| The colours of Ullapool |
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| Rowan tree around Ullapool |
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| Autumn leaves, Ullapool |
The last stop of Inverness saw us staying in a hotel literally joined onto the train station, which was extremely handy, and we indulged in a high tea with a backdrop of the stunning central staircase (as one does!). A stunning riverside walk completed the sightseeing, and we were back to England the following day.
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| Conifer by the river, Inverness |
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| Couldn't get much closer to the station, Inverness hotel |
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| Rich looking a bit shell shocked! (Even before the bill arrived!) |
Perhaps for some people the style of travel we experienced in Scotland is quite normal, but it's hard to imagine how sumptuous it was for us, in comparison with our normal digs when we're travelling around. To stay in lovely, sparkling clean and supremely comfortable lodgings and eat pretty much what we wanted every day was an absolute luxury. The downside was the extreme expense (compared to what we are used to), which forced us to stay a much shorter time in places than we would have liked. A day here, two days there, was not how we are used to travelling, and we had to be happy with a quick look around many places.
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| Complimentary treats! |
To make the trip special we put in some effort beforehand to find accommodation that was either railway related, characterful or historic in some way. The splendid faded grandeur of the big railway hotels in Edinburgh, Perth and Inverness contrasted with the old bank guesthouse in Wick and the fanciful old church school building in Fort William. The grandiose (on the outside) historic hotel in Ullapool varied from the unbeatable seaside views from our room in Plockton and the beautifully thoughtful B and B rooms in Peterhead, Fort William and Dingwall.
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| Splendid staircase inside our hotel |
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| Historic old railway hotel we stayed in |
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| Grandeur at the famous Cally (on the outside anyway!) |
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| Definitely not Asia!! |
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| Even complimentary malt whisky! |
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| Our fairytale B and B |
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| Fancy foyer of our hotel |
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| One of our cute B and Bs |
The highlight, though, had to be Edinburgh, where we had booked the cheapest room in a glorious, once opulent, but now elegantly faded railway hotel. After the drama to get to Edinburgh, we were delighted to be upgraded to a magnificent room with a view overlooking Princes Street and the old town, with a marble bathroom, the biggest bed we've ever had and all the trimmings to go with it. This sort of thing NEVER happens to us and we revelled in it! Lying in bed watching the full moon rise over the Scott Monument, and having a bagpiper playing on the street under our window one afternoon were the definite highlights! Not sure how Rich set up that one, but it was magical!
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| Guess which is our room? |
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| Room with a view, Edinburgh |
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| Relaxing with a wee dram in the bath, Edinburgh hotel |
The lavish full Scottish breakfasts that were included in our hotel and B and B rooms were ridiculously large. The toast, eggs, sausage, bacon, tomato, mushrooms and baked beans on our plates were joined by the Scottish additions of black pudding, haggis and potato scones! That's not to mention the cereals, yoghurt, fruit, oat cakes and home made preserves also on offer. Needless to say, we were filled to the brim for the entire day. If we could squeeze it in, dinner was usually either at a Wetherspoons pub, or a picnic from the supermarket. Our specially purchased vacuum flask was a fantastic idea (as was the hip flask!), and we loved our cuppas on the train as the views wizzed past. Completely unused to so much rich food, though, we both felt completely overstuffed at the end of our journey, and went off food in general. A side note......cannot believe how many crisps are consumed by the Brits, and in Scotland every second person was drinking Irn-Bru. Haggis is now trendy, and available in every form, including on pizzas and in paninis.
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| Breakfast room, Old School House, Fort William |
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| Particularly pleasant Wetherspoons in Perth |
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| Cream tea at Old Train Station, Strathpeffer |
Whether it was on a train, in a shop or a pub, we loved the Scot's friendly attitude and chatty nature. Sal was perplexed to understand a hell of an accent whilst eavesdropping in a Peterhead pub, and Rich, even having lived in Scotland for 20 years, was equally at a loss!
For us, though, the trip all became too much towards the end of our three weeks in Scotland- the fast pace, planned days and big breakfasts became exhausting! Our usual leisurely pace of exploring places and having as much time as we want is much more our style. Although it will be difficult to come back down to earth from what was like an extravagant dream !!
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| Goodnight all! |
....our adventures continue in Nepal......