A BREAK AT THE LAKE- West Sumatra, Danau Maninjau

If you missed part 1 of this blog post (Padang and Bukittiniggi), see HERE!!.

A note on Indonesian noise - one thing we always remember about Indonesia is how noisy it is. Whether it's someone who is yelling on the street at high volume, the mosques, mobile phone conversations at full blare, deafening music in public transport, or TVs left on in neighbouring rooms all night up full volume, making a racket is a national trait. The people are naturally boisterous, often confident, cheeky, outgoing and brash, but it's definitely one of the things we love about the country. It just took a bit of getting used to after travelling in the more sedate countries of Vietnam and Thailand recently!

Happy trader, Maninjau market, Danau Maninjau

Smiley village lady, Danau Maninjau

Cheeky boy, Danau Maninjau

Cute little face, Danau Maninjau

Posing on Independence Day, Danau Maninjau

Handsome couple, Danau Maninjau

Shy girl, Danau Maninjau

It was therefore a relief to arrive at Danau Maninjau, or Lake Maninjau, and discover a quiet haven of a guesthouse located directly on the calm waters, with a few-low key rooms, a small restaurant, and owners used to catering to foreigner's needs. We splashed out, and paid 10,000 rupiah (AU$0.93!) more than the regular clap trap, for a luxurious and spacious bus to drive us from Bukittinggi on the road famous for it's gorgeous views and 44 hair pin turns. Luckily, we had been forewarned and Sal dosed up on drugs in order not to be sick. Unfortunately, the woman in the back of the bus didn't have the same idea.

View from guesthouse, Danau Maninjau

Having eaten something somewhat dodgy in Bukittinggi, we rested our sore bellies and bums for a couple of days, and stayed near the room at the guesthouse. If we had to be sick somewhere, this was the place for it! Days passed serenely, watching passing fisherman from our balcony or sitting areas in the garden, and gazing at the stunning sunsets in the evenings. Even the local mosques some distance over the water were gentle and unobtrusive. The couple of days of near constant rain were also wonderfully refreshing, and an excuse to sit around, watch the weather and read a book.

Sunset from guesthouse, Danau Maninjau

There was a complete change of scene on Independence Day, when all of Indonesia celebrated the break from Dutch rule in 1945. We are not usually in the country during August, so have never experienced it before. We were delighted with the loud, colourful, slightly chaotic, and exciting day, with all the outlying villages joining together so that hundreds of participants were in the streets of little Maninjau village.

Eyeing the action, Independence Day, Danau Maninjau

Wondering at the sights, Independence Day, Danau Maninjau

More subdued, Independence Day, Danau Maninjau

Independence Day, Danau Maninjau

The main parade consisted of two themes, both based on magnificent and complicated drumming. The first was kids dressed in traditional costumes, with big drums, fervently moving to the almost tribal beat as if in a trance. The second had the kids adorned in brass marching band finery, playing the nation anthem on keyboards, drums and other percussion. They were lead by glamorous older girls with batons and whistles to keep time. The girls were dressed to the nines, looking like a cross between a marching band leader and a 1950's sci-fi fantasy, with high boots and silvery capes to go with their hijab under the marching hat that completed the outfit. It bizarrely felt like an American high school theme, and we wondered how on earth that had evolved to represent Indonesia on Independence Day. 

Beautiful symbol of Independence Day, Danau Maninjau

Amazing costumes, Independence Day, Danau Maninjau

Glamorous band leader, Independence Day, Danau Maninjau

Village elder, Independence Day, Danau Maninjau

Mini officers, Independence Day, Danau Maninjau

Colourful kids, Independence Day, Danau Maninjau

Getting into the rhythm, Independence Day, Danau Maninjau

Already sweating buckets, Independence Day, Danau Maninjau

Concentrating on the beat, Independence Day, Danau Maninjau

Cool dude drummers, Independence Day, Danau Maninjau

Independence Day, Danau Maninjau

Looking on at all the action, Independence Day, Danau Maninjau

Unbelievably cute, Independence Day, Danau Maninjau

Not sure what to make of it all, Independence Day, Danau Maninjau

After the parade, there was innocent old fashioned fun with competitions such as sack races, marble and spoon races and a game involving boys putting their faces into bowls of flour to search for something. Everyone was in high spirits with lots of giggly kids and proud parents, and we hung around until the rain stopped festivities for the day.

Sal in selfie hell, Independence Day, Danau Maninjau

Traffic held up by parade, Independence Day, Danau Maninjau

Good spirits, Independence Day, Danau Maninjau

Spectator, Independence Day, Danau Maninjau

So shy! Independence Day, Danau Maninjau

Patriotic colours, Independence Day, Danau Maninjau

Trying the marble and spoon race, Independence Day, Danau Maninjau

Watching from the sidelines, Independence Day, Danau Maninjau

Bright participant, Independence Day, Danau Maninjau

Short video of Independence Day parade.

Volcanic Lake Maninjau is much smaller than Lake Toba, the other Sumatran lake frequented by travellers in the north, (16 kilometres long, seven kilometres wide and 480 meters deep for those who are interested!). It's also less developed for tourism these days- there's now really only two places travellers stay. As well as creating their own electricity with a hydro system, the population turned to fish farming in the early 1990's as a much needed source of income. As a result, the water quality has turned from what we hear was crystal clear and great for swimming, to murky and dirty. Rich, having been involved in fish farming in Scotland years ago, found the tiny, basic operations especially interesting. As it was our first visit here, and we had nothing to compare it to, we didn't find that the small scale industry detracted too much from the beauty of the lake.

Young girl, Danau Maninjau

98 Year old village resident, Danau Maninjau

Particularity beautiful mosque, Danau Maninjau

Village homes, Danau Maninjau

Dutch style village house, Danau Maninjau

Washing, Danau Maninjau

Comfortable cats, Danau Maninjau

Butterfly on drying cacao seeds, Danau Maninjau

Bananas and bloom, Danau Maninjau

Before.....

......and after! 

Hanging out at the village cafe, Danau Maninjau

Fishing, Danau Maninjau

Rice paddies, Danau Maninjau

We spent an amazing day slowly driving around the lake on a motorbike, and marvelled at the stunning scenery. One side was full of rice fields, fish farming, small terraced ponds to hold fish and industrious villages, while the other side was quiet and empty, with falling down wooden houses and featured dramatic steep forested cliffs coming down to the water. We particularly loved the village of Koto Malintang, where we stopped for a break from the bike, and wandered around. We must have met 50% of the population, with everyone coming out of their little wooden houses for a chat, wave, photo or just a sticky beak. Like other villages around Maninjau, they were in the middle of harvesting their rice crops, and the streets were lined with drying rice atop tarps.

Gorgeous girl, Danau Maninjau

Ridiculously happy lady, Danau Maninjau

Little cuties on old verandah, Danau Maninjau

Danau Maninjau

Little girl at market, Danau Maninjau

She's looking at us! Danau Maninjau

Waterfront mosque, Danau Maninjau

Charming village house, Danau Maninjau

Not sure what this was used for, Danau Maninjau

THE place for fishing, Danau Maninjau

Hot work, spreading the rice to dry in the sun, Danau Maninjau

Harvesting rice, Danau Maninjau

Peaceful side of the lake, Danau Maninjau

Hard work for an old lady, Danau Maninjau

.....for a complete change of scene, our next post from a train in Scotland!!...