MOBILE MONKS AND SHODDY BUDDHAS - Sangkhlaburi and around, Thailand

....previously, the charming town of Phetchaburi, Thailand.....

We'd ridden various parts of the “Death Railway” in Thailand years ago during trips in and around Kanchanaburi, but this time we decided to take the entire ride from Bangkok to Namtok, a 4.5 hour train journey, and then continue up into the hills near the Burmese border.

The railway line is infamous for having being built by POWs during World War Two, when Thailand was occupied by the Japanese, and includes the well known bridge over the River Kwae.

Discovering how uncrowded and airy the third class trains are in Thailand was a revelation. They're also incredibly cheap, comfortable enough for shorter trips and have roaming food and drinks sellers. Of course, this particular train was mostly for tourists, but was still a very pleasant way to get to our destination and only 100 baht/AU$4. We actually found the first part of the trip the most fascinating, on the outskirts of Bangkok, with tiny houses in canal communities built almost touching the tracks and train, and we were able to peer into the resident's lives from the slow moving train. This area used to be navigable only by boat before there were roads, and the many floating markets (which are now only for tourists) were the only way to receive and sell goods.

Riding the railway from Bangkok to Namtok, Thailand

The scenery after the canals was mostly flat and agricultural, with bananas, cassava, sugar cane and rice being the main crops. Around Kanchanaburi the scenery turned more hilly and natural, although the normally lush jungle was incredibly dry due to the hot weather.

After disembarking the train at Namtok, we still had a rickety bus trip to complete our journey further west. Through the open windows we saw the many English signs around Kanchanaburi dwindle the further west we got, and the scenery became strawberry farms, national parks, waterfalls and caves. Again, we loved these local buses for their fresh air, lovely old wooden floorboards and cheap prices. They are certainly not the fastest way to get around, but we prefer to take a slow journey and saviour the experience- it's kind of our thing!!

Thong Pha Phum was a tiny one street town (with three 7-11s!), and we quickly found cheap accommodation and food in the centre.

Our cheap and cheerful 250 baht/AU$10 room in Thong Pha Phum, Thailand

The view of the hilltop wat nearby was too tempting, and the next morning we set off before the heat to have a scout around. Although we carried a stick, the hungry temple dogs were about in huge numbers, and some became aggressive when we passed, hoping for some food. We were struck, as always in Thailand, at the absurdity of a religion that won't kill animals on grounds of cruelty, but is happy to feed them and keep them in a depressing state of scabbiness and disease. Thailand has a problem with this, and it does seem especially prevalent in Buddhist temple areas. OK, rant over!!

Monks on a bridge, Wat Tha Kha Nun, Thong Pha Phum, Thailand

Morning sky, Wat Tha Kha Nun, Thong Pha Phum, Thailand

Cute critter, Wat Tha Kha Nun, Thong Pha Phum, Thailand

Wat Tha Kha Nun, Thong Pha Phum, Thailand

Once having scaled the steps and made it to the top, we enjoyed the view of the town and surrounding hills, although the extreme heat gave everything a hazy look. The birdlife was prolific up there, and we became nerds sitting there alone for ages spotting different species.

Monks from the bridge, Thong Pha Phum, Thailand

Hilltop chedi, Thong Pha Phum, Thailand

Serene Buddha statue, hilltop chedi, Thong Pha Phum, Thailand

Lovely little bird, Thong Pha Phum, Thailand

Hazy view over Thong Pha Phum, Thailand

The small town was interesting with the Burmese/Mon look of the population becoming more common. The fare at the market was quite different for us, but we found some recognizable foods to munch on amongst the bits and pieces for sale. We followed some monks around one morning during their morning begging session, trying to take unobtrusive photos, although it has to be said- it's hard to get a good monk photos these days due to them being stuck to their mobile phones (as is everyone)!!

Morning begging rounds, Thong Pha Phum, Thailand

Grumpy and mobile, Thong Pha Phum, Thailand

Pig face, market, Thong Pha Phum, Thailand

When the time came to leave, a misunderstanding with bus times caused a rather long wait, but we finally got going in another great little bus to Sangkhlaburi, further along the twisty and turning road, up and down towards the Burmese border.

Full bus to Sangkhlaburi, Thailand

Sangkhlaburi has a huge number of Burmese Mon residents. Many are minority refugees who have escaped from the treatment of the Burmese government, but now there are second generation kids who have been born in Thailand. Apparently, they aren't treated very well by the Thais, but as tourists we didn't see that side of things. The Burmese influence is everywhere in Sangkhlaburi- from the cheroot (cigar) smoking ladies, the curly writing on signs, the pan stalls (betel nut chewed as a stimulant), to the typical Burmese face paint and the lungi worn by many.

The lake is the focal point for Sangkhlaburi, and it's beautiful wooden bridge a major tourist attraction for hundreds of Thais who visit here everyday, presumably combining it with a trip to the border from Kanchanaburi. As a result the Mon village on the far side of the bridge was chock a block with tacky tourist trinket shops and places one could hire “traditional dress” for a photo on the bridge. Added to that were the huge resorts built on either side of the river, somewhat spoiling the view.

Beautiful wooden bridge, Sangkhlaburi, Thailand

Quiet time on the bridge, Sangkhlaburi, Thailand

Floating houses on Sangkhlaburi lake, Thailand

Early morning tourist parade at the bridge, Sangkhlaburi, Thailand

We spent a day on a hired motorbike- the town is spread out and the guesthouse area and lake quite far from the centre, and other sights more than a walk away. The difference in temperature between the freezing early morning riding on the bike, and the absolutely baking afternoons walking the shadeless roads was ludicrous! We found all the wats and stupas we saw in the area to be somewhat crude and cheap looking, with out of proportion Buddhas and rough finishes. Many were also unkempt, giving a neglected air to them. Most Buddhas were the Burmese style, with long earlobes and some complete with flashing halo lights around their heads. A visit to the Three Pagoda Pass on the border was a bit of a non event, but the freedom of having our own transport and turning off down countless little side roads was fantastic. More dogs seemed to await us every time we got off the bike, growling and barking at us, and some even chased the motorbike, snapping at our heels.

The most beautiful Buddha we saw in Sangkhlaburi, Thailand

Fruit stall at the petrol station, Sangkhlaburi, Thailand

A funny aside about Sangkhlaburi, was we were to randomly meet up with a friend from Fruitopia, who took us to his guesthouse and his favourite places to eat. It was lovely, and unexpected, to see a familiar face, and spend a couple of days hanging out, especially at the secret cool and relaxing river place where we swam and hung out in shady bamboo huts over the river, whilst local kids played Tarzan .

Keeping cool in the heat of the day, Sangkhlaburi, Thailand

Despite the prettiness of the place, and it's interesting mix of people, we somehow couldn't be drawn in to Sangkhlaburi. The huge amounts of mostly Thai tourists and the farang Christian-y do gooders working for various charities created a weird atmosphere, and the locals weren't at all curious or as welcoming as other places, such as Thong Pha Phum. Also, due to the higher accommodation prices, we shortened our stay, so didn't explore as much as we'd planned.

Mystery meat sticks, market, Sangkhlaburi, Thailand

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FOOD

The highlight of traveling in Thailand for us, is the food, and especially the night markets which appear in nearly every town- some even have more than one. Having a better grasp of ordering in Thai, we now had an amazing variety of classic Thai dishes to choose from. Favourites included: pad gaprao (stir fried Thai basil), pad see you (flat fat noodles fried), pak boong (the tasty green vegetable morning glory), moo krop (crispy pork bits with crackling), moo kah (pulled pork leg meat), as well as the ubiquitous khao pad (fried rice) and pad thai (fried thin noodles), and dozens of other dishes to choose from. Meals varied between 30 and 40 baht in the markets (AUS$1.20-$1.60). Drinks were covered with gaa-fae yen (iced coffee) in the mornings and paan (fruit shakes) in the evenings (and the odd Chang beer or cocktail whilst in Bangkok!). Iced coffee and shakes were 25 to 40 baht (AU$1.00-$1.60), and large beers and cocktails 70 baht (at the right bar!- AU$2.90). Probably because we generally avoided tourist restaurants, we never thought we were being overcharged for food or drink, and were always happy with the price asked.

Classic pad thai goong

LOVE this typical array of condiments

Pad gaprao moo (stir fry basil and pork)

.....onward to the beginning of our Vietnam trip- The Deep South....