......for part 1 of our Mahakam River adventure.....
Arriving at the dayak village of Long Bangun in the afternoon of day three, even after 54 hours onboard, we definitely did not want to get off, although the village looked attractive. We were sad to leave our little viewing balcony, and the crew, and the wonderful peaceful feeling of travelling on the waters.
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| "Our" boat, the Akbar Amanda, from the penginapan |
We found a penginapan (boarding house) on the river, and were surprised to bump into one of two bule (foreigner) couples we met along the river.
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| Outside the longhouse, Long Bangun |
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| Outside the longhouse, Long Bangun |
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| Outside the longhouse, Long Bangun |
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| Local cuties |
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| Village houses |
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| Church carving, Long Bangun |
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| Local girl |
We were very fortunate to be in time for a “huduq” festival the next day. Because no one speaks English, and our Indonesian is limited, we were only able to find out it was something to do with the rice planting season. It was a fantastic affair, with young boys rhythmically banging on long drums and a gong for hours, before an old lady in traditional costume lead young girls around in a sort of dance in front of the village long house (place for gatherings). The real feature came down the road in the form of men dressed as creatures unknown to us. We had seen people making the costumes the day before, but couldn’t have dreamed the dramatic affect it would have when it all came together. Small children were running scared, as the creatures danced and strutted their way down the street. Everything moved inside the longhouse, and continued for a couple of hours, when suddenly the music stopped, and everyone left in a matter of seconds!
A short video of the festivities (unfortunately you can’t hear the great drumming, but gives some idea)
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| Long drums, Long Bangun |
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| Long house, Long Bangun |
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| Dayak festival, Long Bangun |
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| Dayak festival, Long Bangun |
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| Dayak festival, Long Bangun |
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| Dayak festival, Long Bangun |
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| Dayak festival, Long Bangun |
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| Dayak festival, Long Bangun |
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| Dayak festival, Long Bangun |
“Our” boat was leaving the following day, so we decided to leave with them and start our cruise slowly back down the Mahakam stopping at some small places on the way. This time, we were to sit on the bottom deck with the short trip passengers, which was interesting as we could see the loading and unloading procedure.
Long Hubung was next, and although we knew it was a small dayak village, we didn’t realize quite how tiny, and that a stay at the local penginapan would involve an hour’s “conversation” with the friendly owner, before being showed to a basic, but clean room with only mattresses on the floor above his shop. It was almost an impossible challenge for Sally to keep up with him, but he definitely expected us to know some of his language, which is fair enough.
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| Our host with his whiskey concoction- we declined a taste |
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| Our room Long Hubung |
We loved the little village, especially when we finally found the one warung (eating place) in town, and spent a couple of days wandering around the limited tracks enjoying the local’s smiles and the brilliant carvings- both outside the local church, and people’s houses. Being Christians, there was a church, pigs, and dogs galore- these were mostly scabby specimens that should have put out of their misery. Dodging the shit all over the paths was not a highlight. The men of the village whizzed around on motorbikes, with traditional round hats on, and home carved knife sheaths in their belts.
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| Totem outside house, Long Hubung |
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| Totem, Long Hubung |
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| Totem, Long Hubung |
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| Old woman, Long Hubung |
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| Long Hubung house |
We were especially lucky here to see an old woman with earlobes stretched down past her shoulders, filled with multiple silver hoops, and tattoos on her wrists and ankles. There are only a few of these women left, and although we asked her politely in Indonesian for a photo, she wasn’t keen, so we respected that, even though we were disappointed. However, it won’t be hard to remember her lovely, smiley, wrinkled face with red stained teeth, and her amazing ears and tattoos.
One strange thing happened on our departure from the floating warung at the pier in Long Hubung. The grandmother of the family we had made friends with held out the back of the baby’s nappy and asked us to spit down it! Apparently it’s good luck- that’s a first!
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| Warung, Long Hubung |
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| Leaving Long Hubung |
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| Baby carrier, boat to Long Iram |
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| Boat to Long Iram |
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