MEDICAL MANEUVERS- A Short Post About Recovery And Rejuvenation

 ........the last blog post from our time on Cambodia's south coast.......

Calm scene on a Bangkok klong

Rich has had trouble with his knee for years, but after a marked increase in pain and a decrease in manoeuvrability in the previous six months, he realized the time had come to do something about it. He had always put up with the issue while the discomfort wasn't too bad and it wasn't interrupting our travel lifestyle, but it was clear now that the inevitable couldn't be postponed any longer. If you follow our blog, you may have seen we have had a distinct lack of adventuring recently, and this has been due to his lack of mobility. 

Knowing how atrocious the current health system is in the UK, we ruled out travelling back there for treatment, and potentially hanging around for years on the waiting list. We knew people who had had medical treatment in Malaysia, and after a lot of research, we decided to return to Penang and visit the Adventist Hospital for advice. Run by the Seventh Day Adventists, it is supposedly a non-profit institution- it did seem to be a fair bit cheaper than some of the other international hospitals we looked into.

A detailed look on their website lead us to the experienced sounding head surgeon of orthopaedics, who had studied and lived in the UK for most of his professional life. A call to the hospital saw us booked in for a consultation THE FOLLOWING DAY, would you believe! This would be unheard of in most "developed" countries. We arrived for registration, and after briskly being whizzed around for thorough x-rays and blood tests, Rich then met with the surgeon, who already had all the relevant results in front of him. What a great system! Immediately comfortable with the doctor and reassured by his diagnosis, Rich was happy to be booked in for a knee replacement in 10 days time ("I'm sorry I can't fit you in this week", the doctor said!!)

We spent most days leading up to the operation at the gym- Rich wanting to be as fit as possible to ensure a quicker recovery (Sal reluctantly exercising, but really enjoying the pool more than anything). It's probably been mentioned before on our blog, but we use an amazing gym in a posh hotel in Penang that, for a one month membership charges 178RM (the equivalent to less than £1 per day). 

Staying at our usual Noble Hotel (where nothing EVER changes except the price), we were lucky enough to be able to catch up with some of our best friends who also happened to be in Penang, as well as the usual motley crew that can always be found hanging around the infamous Antarabangsa Bar in the backstreets of Georgetown.

Arriving early at the hospital the day of admission, there was a lot of waiting around and tests, before we were taken to Richard's digs. The room was clean and modern, and shared with only one other patient. The best part, though, was the staff, whose constant testing and checking was was almost too attentive. There wasn't much time for sleep during the five nights Rich spent in the hospital!

The morning Rich was taken away to surgery was a long one- for Rich undergoing what was to be a more complicated operation than the surgeon had anticipated, and for Sal waiting for hours not knowing what was going on. Rich's knee had deteriorated to a terrible state due to his advanced osteo-arthritis. The thigh and shin bones had been grinding against each other so extensively over the years without the protective cartilage in between to act as a cushion. His leg bones had rubbed together so much so that the shin bone had actually become concave- no wonder he had been in so much pain! The surgeon had a lot of reshaping and resurfacing of the bones to do, and the op took close to three hours instead of the usual one hour. 

When he was finally wheeled back down the hall, Sal was reassured to see him smiling and looking in good spirits- the pain killers were working! Over the next four days, he was immediately put to work by the physiotherapist moving the leg, gently at first, in order to promote maximum flexibility as the knee healed. It was amazing how quickly everything happened- Rich was using the toilet, showering, walking and moving about, and then on the fifth day, the surgeon cleared him to come home. We were both very relieved- as nice as the hospital and staff were, it was not the best environment in which to heal. And as lovely as the Adventists might be, their vegetarian food habits leave a lot to be desired!

Spirits high (and the pain killer level!) immediately after the operation, Penang

On arrival back at the guesthouse, the staff appeared to help Rich up the stairs and then produced a crutch and a zimmer frame from who knows where for him to borrow, telling us guests leave all sorts of things in their rooms! These proved  helpful for a few days before Rich was able to walk alone. 

Basically, we spent the next month in Penang, exercising and trying to get Rich back into shape as soon as possible. He worked really hard every day, with extra motivation from Sal. Two return hospital visits saw the surgeon and all the staff extremely impressed with his progress, and although things would never move fast enough for Rich's liking, he was well ahead of the curve on his recovery, and we were on track to returning to our "normal" travelling life.

After some time, we were in desperate need of a break from Penang, and decided on an easy change of scene, heading to Bangkok. 

Six years since we had visited Thailand's capital was a long time, and of course much had changed. But checking into our old favourite guesthouse on Soi Rambuttri, an off shoot of famous back packer area Khao San Road, we found enough familiar landmarks to remind us why we loved the place, and to be glad we had made the effort to move from Malaysia.

All the best people were born in the Year Of The Rabbit!

Random pig shrine (it is Bangkok, after all!)

Pimped out Bangkok truck

We've visited Bangkok SO many times over the years, and have made great efforts in the past to see much of the quirky parts of the city. It's actually quite an endeavour now to find something new to see or do. We always love the ferry on the Chao Phraya River, and especially enjoy the trip north to Nonthaburi to the markets there. At 16 baht (34 pence) for the roughly one hour ferry trip, it's great value, and was particularly pleasant on this visit with the temperatures in the high 30s. 

Yannawa boat shaped temple on the Chao Phraya River

Chatuchak Market is another favourite, and having visited so many times in the past, we by now knew the strategy- get there early, take water and have a plan. With 8,000 stalls and so many sections ranging from plants to pets to clothes, the place can be overwhelming. We knew exactly what we were looking for, and were able to get in, look around at a leisurely pace, buy a few items, and still leave before the hoards arrived and the weather heated up to unbearable proportions. 

We combined walking with the use of the fantastic Bangkok bus system to explore various new and random areas of the city. One interesting find was the Nightingale Department Store, a dusty reminder of times past, located in amongst the new colourful establishments of Bangkok's "Little India". A strange shop, it stood as though in a time warp - old fashioned clothes, games and beauty products sitting in cabinets as they must have done for decades. Ladies that looked as old as the products sat behind crumbling counters, surely not selling anything for days. 

Old fashioned department store, Bangkok

Dated and dusty displays

Evenings were spent eating as much yummy Thai fare as possible, making the most of the the wide variety of delicious food. After our first night attempting to walk along Khao San Road, and finding it an unpleasant mix of bar and massage touts and extremely loud music, we retreated to the more subdued Rambuttri strip, where we could enjoy a beer and people watch to our hearts content. Fruit shakes were consumed at least once a day- the heat was so intense, we were forever unable to quench our thirsts. Mangoes and durian were the most prevalent of all the fruits in season- we scoffed plenty of the former, and none of the latter. 

Enjoying the Bangkok night life

Huge selection of fruit shakes to choose from, Bangkok

Rich's second month of recovery in Thailand was spent with a lot of walking the streets, and up and down the ever-present stairs in Bangkok (including three flights up to our room). When we moved location from our cheap and cheerful guesthouse in the traveller haven of Banglamphu to the slightly more upmarket hotel on the other side of Bangkok, he restarted gym work, and swimming in the rooftop pool. By the time we left, his knee was well on the way to being completely healed, and he was able to walk and exercise for long periods without too much discomfort. This was such an amazing contrast from the pain he had experienced for such a long time before he underwent the knee replacement operation. We hoped it would mean a whole new lease of life for us both, and for what we were able to achieve travelling. We were excited to start travelling again for the second half of 2024!

Bangkok klong scene

Old style Bangkok architecture

Didn't try, but sounds revolting

Banglamphu Park, Bangkok

.......next up, fun and lots of train travel in Bulgaria.........

HOP TO IT - Kampot and Rabbit Island, Cambodia

.........our previous blog post about getting to Koh Rong Sanloem from Phnom Penh......

Rich in a garden, Kampot, Cambodia

Relieved to be off the speed boat from Koh Rong Sanloem and not feeling seasick, we made our way to Sihanoukville railway station, an ugly beast of a building in the middle of the industrial port area. Securing a ticket early (we had heard the seats get sold out), we had plenty of time to relax and eat a meal and drink a fresh coconut from the friendly lady at the simple stall on the far side of the tracks. 

More and more tourists showed up in the station, then an announcement was made that the train would be delayed by 30 minutes....and then another 30 minutes. It was hot and people were starting to get fed up. When the train was seen to be pulling in to the platform, everyone rushed to the door in order to board before the thing had even stopped. The train was completely different in style to the previous one we had taken from Phnom Penh to Kep. This one was modern, no open windows, and only two carriages- hence the scrum to get on. After we all waited for the other passengers to disembark, there was yet another announcement that there would be a further 30 minute delay. Finally, we were allowed on, waited in the stifling heat for yet another 30 minutes, then eventually the trip began (and the AC was raised to an artic temperature). 

Modern (and tiny) train from Sihanoukville to Kampot, Cambodia

On arrival at far flung Kampot station, there were not enough tuk tuks to go around, so we walked some way to a main road, and flagged one down. It took us an hour or so to find a good place to stay for a week or so, and in the end, we were happy with our room with a bathroom, fridge, two big beds and a strong fan. The friendly manager also informed us that use of the bicycles were free of charge. What a bonus!

Our Kampot room

Having visited Kampot and loved it 13 years ago, we had some recollections of eateries and spots we remembered to be cute and appealing. As we started to explore the town this time, we realized there was basically nothing at all that was was familiar. Traffic was much increased, new roads and guesthouses had been built, there were more buildings in general, and there seemed to be less of the French Colonial historic part of town, but that could have just been the encroachment of the new development. We also didn't recall there being two streets full of girlie bars! The river side now had a paved promenade, and none of our remembered places existed anymore. Although this was slightly disappointing, we adjusted, and still found many aspects of Kampot that were positive and enjoyable. It was also a relief to be back in the "real world" after being on touristy Koh Rong Sanloem. 

Giant durian roundabout at night, Kampot

Bar sign, Kampot

Wonderful remnant of French colonial architecture, Kampot

Local bakery, Kampot

Rich loved this!

Having fun in the second hand shop, Kampot

The best thing about Kampot was the food. There were so many options for eating, and we ate at a different place almost every night. Apart from the multitude of khmer and Western food restaurants and cafes, there was a night market and endless street stalls selling noodle and rice dishes.

Breakfast of champions, noodle soup

The other distinguishing thing about Kampot was the amount of expats here. Cambodia has always been popular with long term stayers because of the easy and generous visa options, but we couldn't get over the crowd here. Mostly retirees, we presumed, and mostly European men, but there was certainly a mix of all sorts, and it made for quite a cool vibe. 

Taking full advantage of the free bikes from our guesthouse, we whizzed around town most days, trying to avoid busy areas and intersections. The bicycles were a great help for Rich, not having to walk painfully about town- he's fine on a bike. Locals were actually very good defensive drivers, slow and careful. They also treated us on our bikes as absolute idiots, wary when we approached, which was probably the best technique all round. 

On the most energetic day, we cycled up to some calm and peaceful spots on the Tuek Chhu River, away from the bustle of the town centre. This area of bumpy backstreets leading to small canals and waterways was charming. Smiley people and kids waved at us, Buddhist temples had monks lazing around the grounds, and a few low-key resorts had rustic bungalows set over the water. Some also had beautiful gardens complete with picturesque bridges, and floating pontoons on the river- one even had an extensive boardwalk over the mangroves.

Strange mangrove flower, Kampot

Tuek Chhu River, Kampot

Dusty French wine bottles, Kampot

Small temple in resort grounds, Kampot

Mangrove boardwalk, Kampot

Realistic looking, but fake dollars for Chinese New Year, Kampot

Colourful pillars, Kampot Buddhist temple

Grounds of the small Buddhist temple, riverside, Kampot

Another day we took out a motorbike, in order to travel further afield. The salt fields, although not as impressive as others we've seen (the best were on Diu island in Gujarat, India) made for a compelling yet scorching day out amongst a more rural setting, quiet gravel tracks, and simple wooden houses high up on stilts. Unfortunately, as is often the case in parts of Asia, the experience was slightly marred by the excessive amounts of rubbish randomly thrown into every stream and ditch by locals. 

Water lily flower, Kampot

Salt piled up ready to be harvested, Kampot

Typical house, around Kampot

Small pot, resort grounds, Kampot

Unfortunate amount of rubbish, Kampot

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Due to our enthusiasm to arrive in Koh Rong Sanloem and see our friend before he started work, we had previously cut our time short in the lovely seaside resort of Kep. We now stopped there on the way back to Phnom Penh to complete a few activities on our list.

Number one on the list was Rabbit Island, or Koh Tonsay in Khmer language. A short ride away from the mainland on a colourful boat, the small island was a world away from the bustling scene on Koh Rong Sanloem. On arrival, which involved climbing down a ladder into the shallow sea, we were greeted by the closest bungalow owner, who showed us an adorable hut a few steps from the water for US$10 a night. We immediately took it, and liked the place. The island had no electricity, only running generators a few hours in the evening, which suited us fine for a few days. About ten small scale resorts lined the beach, all rustic, with wooden huts and sunlounges on the beach, all serving the same basic food. The usual wooden gazebos with hammocks and mats were also present for the locals who descended on the island in groups on the weekends. For a few days, we had an extremely quiet time, enjoying the fabulous sea breeze, lazing around in hammocks and on the beach. Probably the most exciting thing to happen was when a snake fell out of a tree above us and landed on Richard's foot, before slithering away in the sand.

Path between resorts, Rabbit island, Cambodia

Sunset, Rabbit island, Cambodia

Our cute hut on Rabbit island, Cambodia

Scene outside our bungalows, Rabbit island, Cambodia

Shady beach in the morning, Rabbit island, Cambodia

We were happy to return to Kep, and spend a couple more days exploring, including the Kep National Park and surrounds by motorbike, and eating amazing seafood at the famous crab market. 

Seafood feast, Kep, Cambodia

A few days in Phnom Penh sorting out our immediate travel plans, rounded out our two months

 Cambodian trip. We had been pleased to explore more of Cambodia's coastline towns and islands, and the laid back feeling of simple travel was just what we needed at this time. 

Our last sunset, Kep, Cambodia

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Cambodia has a lot going for it, but it is not a foodie destination, at least not in terms of khmer food. They have a few national dishes, but we found them to be a bit bland and uninteresting, especially after spending so much time in neighbouring Thailand. Amok (a mild coconut curry) and lok lak (stewed beef on rice with a fried egg) were two local dishes we did enjoy.

Beef lok lak, a khmer dish

One food aspect we did absolutely love was the baguettes, a remnant from the French era. Found absolutely everywhere, these were most basically served on the street with pate and pork, with pickles on the side, but also different restaurants stuffed them with everything imaginable.

Baguette with pork and pickles

In areas of Cambodia catering to long stay foreigners, such as the southern coast, much of the Western style food was amazing and relatively cheap, and made for a favourable change from rice and noodles. This is something unique to Cambodia in South East Asian countries, and we appreciated the contrast in cuisine. 

Roast pork Sunday lunch, complete with Yorkshire pudding!

Of course, tropical fruits were in abundance, particularly all varieties of mangoes, bright purple dragon fruit, the ever present juicy and delicious pineapples and a surprising amount of passionfruit. 

As previously stated, fruit shakes were our number one delight drinks-wise, and a close second was fresh coconut on the street, often cold and so refreshing. After much indulging of alcohol in Thailand, we didn't drink at all apart from catch up drinks with our friend on Koh Rong Sanloem. That was a shame in a way with beer being so ridiculously cheap. In fact, the prices hadn't changed much from when we were here 13 years ago, starting from 2,400 KHR/US$0.60 for a Happy Hour cold glass of draft Anchor/Angkor/Cambodian beer. 

Yummo fruit shakes, Cambodia

Our Phnom Penh obsession, cold fresh coconut

Well, maybe just one beer......

Local transport was plentiful and inventive. Phnom Penh especially was chock a block with different variations of tuk tuk, from the Indian style auto rickshaw to rormork contraptions with a carriage behind a motorbike. Cheap and easy, we used them often, usually paying 4,000KHR/US$1 for a short trip. Amazingly, some of them were attached to Grab, or other payment apps. 

Rormork with tuk tuks in background, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Phnom Penh city buses were surprisingly modern, clean, regular and air-conditioned, and a great way to travel longer distances around the city, especially at 1500 riel/US$0.36 a trip. There weren't many routes, but we quickly sussed out the ones we could make use of during our stay. 

Travel in between towns for us was a mixture of bus and train. It was so difficult to find out information about train routes and times online before we arrived in Cambodia, due to the terrible Royal Railways website, and travellers just generally not favouring train travel in Cambodia. But once there, we found it easy and cheap to book a ticket at the station. The trains types varied, the best trains being the spacious older types with open windows and bench seats, and the other being more modern with excessively cold AC, tinted closed windows but with more comfortable seats. One downside was the stations were generally not in the centre of town (apart from Phnom Penh), so a tuk tuk was required at each end of the journey. There were two railway lines from Phnom Penh, one to Sihanoukville and the other to Battambang. Both left once a day, early in the morning, and took around six hours. 

Not the most attractive train station, Sihanoukville, Cambodia

Love the open windows on the old style trains, Cambodia

Intercity buses were expensive, and pretty much the only way to get to certain places. We kept wondering how the locals travelled, as they certainly couldn't afford to pay the high bus prices- we supposed there must be a two tiered system for bus prices, as for almost everything else in Cambodia. On the plus side, the buses were generally well organized, on time, air conditioned and picked up from the hotel. 

Accommodation was generally cheap, simple rooms with fan, bathroom (always with a toothbrush, soap and comb!) and WIFI. We paid between US$8-US$15, the price seemingly dependant on the number of tourists in the vicinity. 

Our simple room in Kep, Cambodia

Cambodian map complete, for George

Close up of our route along the coast, Cambodia

......next up, we're back to Malaysia for some medical manoeuvres, we'll keep in touch......