THE HEAT IS ON - Andijon and Kokand, Fergana Valley, Uzbekistan

 ...........our previous adventures crossing Kyrgyzstan through some remote mountains......

Border crossings between Central Asian countries have always been a breeze for us, and our experience moving between Kyrgyzstan into Uzbekistan's Fergana Valley was no exception. A pedestrian only post, both guards and fellow travellers were extremely helpful and generous, letting us through first on both sides. We were thankful for this, as the alternative was waiting for hours in the baking sun. Negotiations with the taxi sharks on the Uzbek side saw us in a shared taxi and whizzing our way to our next destination. 

Sal in a shadowy corner, Old Andijon, Uzbekistan

The city of Andijon was quite simply a delight. We found a hostel smack bang in the middle of the main market in the old town, with the all important AC (they don't go in for fans in Central Asia, it's generally AC or nothing). Literally next door was a fantastic basic restaurant with meat sizzling out the front, and plenty of national dishes inside (the prices were incredible, with the maximum a meal costing us being 60,000 som/£4). A few more steps brought us into the market, ladies in their cool Uzbek pyjamas sitting on the ground with fresh tomatoes, peaches, grapes and raspberries. Further inside the market, all our culinary needs were met. A dairy house kept us happy with local kaymak (cream), bread sellers with amazingly aromatic round breads lined the paths, and the guys in the nut section offered a range of Uzbek grown yummies, including the delicious roasted apricot kernels (tasted like almonds). We didn't need the meat section, but it was interesting to see the fatty bums of the sheep lined up on the counters. And of course, the best ice cream - Uzbekistan definitely has that honour. The range and quality of the produce was quite overwhelming after the less than great offerings in the remoter parts of Kyrgyzstan we had just come from. 

Samsa cooking, Andijon, Uzbekistan

Young vegetable sellers, Andijon Bazaar, Uzbekistan

Array of spices, Andijon Bazaar, Uzbekistan

Old boys on a bench, Andijon, Uzbekistan

Plov ready to be served up, Andijon Bazaar, Uzbekistan

Melon man, Andijon Bazaar, Uzbekistan

Another interesting part of the market was the metal working guys, with their wares for sale out the front of their workshops. 

Metal workshops housed in old buildings, Andijon, Uzbekistan

Blacksmith hard at work, Andijon, Uzbekistan

Wood stoves are very popular, Andijon, Uzbekistan

Grinding away, Andijon, Uzbekistan

But it was the local people who were the most wonderful. They had to be the most generous and hospitable we have come across in Central Asia, and that's really saying something. As we wondered around, people turned and stared wide eyed, with huge grins, seemingly very happy to simply see us in their midst. Guys loved to shake Rich's hand, and most men and a few brave ladies enthusiastically called out some kind of greeting. We guessed what they were asking most of the time and yelled back "Australia", only for them to look astonished and tell all their friends in the vicinity. Sometimes, a "Kangaroo" or "Crocodile Dundee" was called back, or a further "conversation" ensued, with all of us nodding and smiling, with not much idea of what the other was saying. Usually they gave it a good attempt with what little English they knew, very much wanting to communicate with us. One man wanted to know if Sal's teeth were real- first time she'd been asked that! Most people were not shy, and every smile offered by us was returned, making us feel very happy to be in the city. 

Rich with new friends at cafe, Andijon, Uzbekistan

Dignified market man, Andijon, Uzbekistan

Little boy who delivered bread around the bazaar, Andijon, Uzbekistan

When Rich requested a sharpening of our Swiss Army knife in the metal workshop area, payment for the perfectly done job was firmly refused. This also happened when Sal had a dress altered at a seamstress. At a cafe, not only was our chay on the house, but an anonymous kind person bought us juice also. An old woman on the bus paid our fare and gave us a bag full of bread and goodies before continuing on her way. Examples of this generosity towards us were numerous and often in Andijan. All the stalls in the markets gave us little titbits to nibble on while we decided on our purchase- sometimes a very good marketing ploy! People were happy to help us, and no payment was required. 

Our sight-seeing was kept on a strict timetable of early mornings and evenings. Days were over 40 degrees in this part of Fergana Valley in summertime, and there was no way we were going to slog ourselves around in the heat. We had plenty of work organizing the rest of the year's travel to occupy ourselves in the middle of the day within the haven of our AC room. 

Soviet-era artwork on exterior of museum, Andijon, Uzbekistan

Intriguing concert area complete with lake, Andijon, Uzbekistan

Random giant eagle cafe, Andijon, Uzbekistan

A small historic district was close by, and wandering around the lovely collection of domed mosques, carved wooden outdoor areas of buildings with brightly coloured ceilings and blue and green tiled exteriors was a pleasure. 

Devonaboy Mosque through the trees, Andijon, Uzbekistan

Splendid front side of Devonaboy Mosque, Andijon, Uzbekistan

Minaret and colourful ceiling in the grounds of Jami Madrassa, Andijon, Uzbekistan

Lofty minaret, Jami Madrassa, Andijon, Uzbekistan

Such wonderful detail, Jami Madrassa grounds, Andijon, Uzbekistan

The best day was spent at Bogishamol Park, on the outskirts of Andijon. The park was dedicated to Babur, who was born in Andijon, and as a descendent of both Timur and Genghis Khan, had quite a pedigree. He founded the Mogul Empire in India in the 1500s, and locals seem very proud of their famous son, going by the many museums and memorials devoted to his life and feats. 

We had fun checking out all the shady food options, complete with topchans (platforms designed for eating and lazing around on), some typical carnival rides and a giant teapot (of course). We then braved the rickety and decrepit chairlift up to a view point about half an hour away, where we stopped for a drink and to admire the outlook over Andijon and then trundled back down again. One had to be bloody quick jumping on and off of the thing- Sal fell out into the arms of the staff, whilst Rich of course stepped out easily and suavely. By midday on the Saturday we were there, things had not only heated up to almost unbearable temperatures, but the locals were setting up in the shade with their piles of food and loud music, and we felt it time to head home on the bus. 

Monument to their famous son, Babur, Bogishamol Park, Andijon, Uzbekistan

The greatest giant teapot we have ever seen, Bogishamol Park, Andijon, Uzbekistan

Uncared for snooker table, Bogishamol Park, Andijon, Uzbekistan

View from the top of the hill, Bogishamol Park, Andijon, Uzbekistan

Sal excited to be riding on the chairlift, Bogishamol Park, Andijon, Uzbekistan

Short video on the chairlift

Public transport in Andijon was effortless, with an assortment of buses a three minute walk from our door. Most convenient were the Damas minibuses, apparently produced right here in Andijon. There were hundreds of them going to all parts of the city, and we never had to wait more than a couple of minutes for one to come along. And at 3,000 som/£0.19, the price was only beaten by the large buses which charged 1500 som/£0.09 for a journey across town. 

Evenings were generally spent strolling in a nearby park, usually consisting of fountains, coloured lights, kids in remote controlled cars, sometimes carnival rides, very loud music and ice cream. It was a fun and wholesome vibe. We didn't drink any booze for our entire stay in Andijon, partly because it's a conservative city and alcohol is not exactly easy to come by, and partly just because we didn't feel like it.

We made a bit of a mistake by taking a midday train to our next destination, instead of going for the 5am option. We hadn't thought about the temperature of the inside of the carriage, with the only windows opening being very high, small and not very effective. It was basically four hours of being in a giant hairdryer, stopping tediously often at small stations along the way. We didn't really even have the energy to interact with the families and kids sharing our carriage, or even the conductor who was desperate to chat with us. 

Train from Andijon to Kokand, Uzbekistan

Stepping off the train at Kokand was like arriving in a ghost town. The fact that it was midday and hotter than Hell probably had something to do with it, and by the time we flagged down a taxi and arrived at our hostel, we were beat. We could be posh and take taxis in Central Asia, where the average fare is under £0.80! We tended to take a taxi to and from a train or long distance bus, when we had our backpacks, otherwise we went local on small marshrutkas or bigger buses for trips within towns, as it's more stimulating.

After such an amazing stay in Andijon, Kokand was never going to completely live up to it's neighbour. It was a lovely city, with some buildings of historical interest, and bazaars galore, and the people were welcoming, but it still couldn't quite compare to Andijon's very high standards. 

Ornate bazaar entrance, Kokand, Uzbekistan

The marmot theme continues, Kokand, Uzbekistan

One huge bonus was that the smart, but quirky hostel where we stayed, not only had the all important AC in our room, but unusually had a full gym on the level below the accommodation. As our friends know, Rich has had trouble with a bad knee for many years, and recently it has effected his ability to walk too far or too strenuously. One thing that helps greatly is exercise, with the equipment at a gym being particularly beneficial. Tentatively poking his head around the gym door on our first day, Rich was warmly welcomed into the place by the many big muscly toughguy Uzbeks- they surrounded him to say hi and shake his hand. Any talk of a fee was swept away by the owner's hand, and Rich spent most of his mornings in there. 

Ancient Kokand was extremely well placed on the Silk Road, being on a crossroads of two major routes- one leading to Tashkent, and the other to what is now Tajikistan. Historically, the city has had it's ups and downs- two of the high points being the Kokand Khanate in the 1800s, and financially after the Russians moved in and many became extremely wealthy from the cotton trade. It is considered one of the oldest towns in Uzbekistan, although these days the long standing sights have a rather polished and renovated feel to them. 

The most visited sight in Kokand was the former palace of the Khudaya Khan, built originally in the late 1800s. Most of the palace was destroyed by the Soviets, but what remained was quite lovely. The exterior was covered in stately blue and green mosaics, while the calming interior featured detailed painting and decorations in the traditional colourful custom. We walked through a series of grand rooms and shady courtyards, with many relics such as old style costumes, furniture and ornaments displayed (as usual without much English explanation, or enough light). The best part was the old photos showing people and the palace in it's heyday.

Expansive view of the front of Khudayar Khan Palace, Kokand, Uzbekistan

Renovated rooms at Khudayar Khan Palace, Kokand, Uzbekistan

Beautiful courtyard, Khudayar Khan Palace, Kokand, Uzbekistan

Pretending to be regal, Khudayar Khan Palace, Kokand, Uzbekistan

Grand entrance to Khudayar Khan Palace, Kokand, Uzbekistan

Two charming parts of Kokand were the peaceful area around a well kept manicured cemetery, where two calm and cool mausoleums of the past royal family sat, complete with small gardens and benches for contemplation. The other was the upmarket area where Europeans keen to cash in on the cotton trade built opulent homes for themselves in the 1800s. Thankfully, most of them were currently in use as public buildings and adequately preserved.

Setting sun at Modari Khan Mausoleum, Kokand, Uzbekistan

Looking through beautiful doors, Kokand, Uzbekistan

Falling stars on the ceiling, Modari Khan Mausoleum, Kokand, Uzbekistan

1800s cotton merchants house, turned university, Kokand, Uzbekistan

Uni students, Kokand, Uzbekistan

Glamour on the streets of Kokand, Uzbekistan

Other points of interest in Kokand were the most unusually unfriendly Juma Mosque, a funky Soviet-era theatre, peeking into an Orthodox church service complete with melodic choir, and admiring gardens with oncoming pomegranates, figs and bunches of juicy grapes.

Some of the 99 pillars at Juma Mosque, Kokand, Uzbekistan

Loved this window, Kokand, Uzbekistan

Soviet designs, Khamza Theatre, Kokand, Uzbekistan

Service in Russian Orthodox church, Kokand, Uzbekistan

Nearly ready to pick, pomegranates, Kokand, Uzbekistan

An interesting huge outdoor mosque, Kokand, Uzbekistan

We began an obsession with what the Uzbeks call "kokteyl" (spell it out in your head!). Unfortunately not the alcoholic kind, these were more like an ice-cream thick shake, and we had enjoyed them intermittently during our Central Asian trip. But now with a friendly drinks joint directly over the road, they were the perfect way to finish off a meal, or just to cool down. We tried to keep to our energy-saving heat-avoiding strategies for survival, but going out super early, and especially late at night did not come naturally to us. 

USSR brand ice cream, Uzbekistan

A flash train transported us from Kokand back to Tashkent, where we spent a few days enjoying our last favourite Central Asian foods and drinks, and generally preparing for the next part of our journey, until it was suddenly and sadly time to leave.

Uzbek flags, Kokand

We simply cannot finish without a mention again of fabulous food in Central Asia. Many travellers talk about how uninteresting the cuisine is in this part of the world, but we loved the simplicity, and the meat and potato based diet, and revelled in eating out at bargain prices. 

Borscht soup

A great big messy plate of yummy gulyash (goulash)

Laghman, perhaps the most common dish in Central Asia, this version called boso

Ubiquitous plov, a staple in Central Asia

Gotta love a dumpling! Manti is the Central Asian version, divine with chilli sauce

More meat!

One last note that might be of some interest. It has been about 30 years since the collapse of the Soviet Union and the subsequent independence of the many former states. Some ex-Soviet countries have tried to eradicate all memories of this time- pulling down statues, changing the official language, renaming roads etc. Things are somewhat different in Central Asia. Maybe it's because no-one has had the money or energy to change things, or perhaps they like to be reminded of a time that for some towns was a more prosperous age. But what ever the reason, there are so many reminders of the Soviet era in Central Asia still. As visitors, we adore these remnants and seek them out. We delight in the mosaics on the side of otherwise bland apartment blocks, statues of prominent Russians (Lenin is a particular favourite here), interesting modern art and design, brutalist architecture (and the odd UFO inspired memorial). Other parts of their heritage include public parks and the railway system, including sophisticated metros in some cities.

Various Lenins, Soviet-built subway, Soviet Uzbekistan's symbol,
monument to the Russian/Afghan War, a humble bus stand, poster celebrating Victory Day- when Russia beat the Nazis

Our four month stay in Central Asia had been a superb tonic. It's wonderful to know there are places in the world where we can "get away" from the BS being carried out in the West. People here generally lead simple lives, thinking mostly about family, food, keeping warm or cool, looking after their crops and livestock and sometimes religion. It does us good to get back to basics, and re-evaluate what's important in our lives, too. As we move on to a more fast paced lifestyle in our coming travels, we will try to bring a little piece of Central Asia and it's attitudes with us.

Typical hostel room, Uzbekistan

Example of homestay room, Kyrgyzstan

Great basic toilets, Central Asia

It will probably be sometime before we produce another blog post- the surge of information that's been coming out no doubt drying up for the next several months, with our mixed bag of plans for the rest of the year. We hope you've enjoyed our many reports about Central Asia- we've very much loved experiencing them!

And up next, a mix of a blog with everywhere from Abu Dhabi to Scotland............