A LITTLE BIT OF ART AND HISTORY IN THE SUMMER TIME - A Journey from Subotica, Serbia to Višegrad, Bosnia and Hercegovina

........our last blog post detailing practical things about travelling in Romania......

After climbing the hill in Višegrad, Bosnia and Hercegovina

Wonderful Subotica, Serbia

We needn't have been concerned about missing out on staying in Hungary. After enjoying our brilliant time in Oradea, Romania on the Hungarian border, we then found ourselves in the even more Hungarian influenced city of Subotica, Serbia. We've travelled to quite a few places now in Serbia, and have loved them all. Subotica, however, was by far the prettiest, most diverse, and had the most welcoming locals. Most people spoke Hungarian as well as English, and communicating was easier than in other parts of Serbia we have visited.

Graceful shady streets, Subotica, Serbia

Weird street art, Subotica, Serbia

Grand shopping precinct, Subotica, Serbia

Colourful detail on Art Nouveau window, Subotica, Serbia

Subotica is another city majorly influenced by the Austro-Hungarian Art Nouveau movement of architecture, also called Secession style. The turn of the century buildings all over Subotica were complimented by the gorgeous tree-lined streets, shady parks, cafes and many students milling around. As famous as Oradea, Romania is for being a beautiful Art Nouveau city, for us, Subotica far outshone it. It had a much more casual feel, and the buildings were not perfectly kept, yet still cared for. It felt less fussy than it's Romanian counterpart. There was very lively and busier feel than anywhere we'd been in Romania. The few days we had in the city were mainly spent wandering, a favourite pastime of ours! 

Old shop with original door, Subotica, Serbia

Extravagant design on corner cafe, Subotica, Serbia

Taking a peek inside an old beauty, Subotica, Serbia

Main street, Subotica, Serbia

Whimsical window decoration, Subotica, Serbia

Art Nouveau features, Subotica, Serbia

Street scene in Subotica, Serbia

Lake Palic was a delightful afternoon trip. A former spa resort from the 1800s, people came to the lake to participate in healthy bathing and to relax at the hotels and sanatoriums dotted around. The manicured park had ancient oak trees and pavilions, and the lake was complete with rowing boats and pedlos. 

Strolling Lake Palic, Subotica, Serbia

Victorian splendour, Lake Palic, Subotica, Serbia

Quiet forest area, Lake Palic, Subotica, Serbia

We'd forgotten how much Serbians love meat!!!

A two week stay at our home away from (no) home, the Sun Hostel in Belgrade, was next. As usual, we had a brilliant stay, catching up with eight months worth of news with friends, and meeting and chatting endlessly with the mostly young backpackers staying in the hostel. It was a blur of socializing, drinking and late nights.

Walking around Belgrade during this summer in 2022 was like seeing a completely new city. It was thrilling to see businesses fully open and people smiling in the streets and enjoying the hot weather. Cafes and restaurants were full to the brim, and the whole place had a wonderful positive vibe. Of course, that also meant the tourists had come back- maybe even more then before the Plandemic, and prices were higher. We were shocked at this latter development in the Balkans in general- we had had it good for so long for the last couple of years!

Mural of Novak Đoković, local hero (and for us too!)

A couple of weeks on, and sitting back on the train from Belgrade to Užice surrounded by the natural beauty of the Dinaric Alps, we immediately began to unwind, and we used our week in Užice as a kind of detox. We really like this town and have visited twice before. It has a beautiful location, nestled within a valley with forests all around, and although this charming setting does contrast with it's heavy Socialist-style buildings within the town centre, we somehow still find it loveable. We spent our week catching up on sleep and good eating, and exploring the town to see what had change since our last visit. The 14th century fortress that was previously being renovated had been finished, and was bright and discordant with the natural environment in which it stood. Another example of an over-zealous renovation of an ancient relic. The wonderful river area remained unchanged, apart from a new public swimming pool being built, and the centre of town was much more lively and open than we have seen it before.

A walk across a bridge, Užice , Serbia

Dramatic setting of both the castle and the town of Užice , Serbia

A newly renovated fortress, Užice , Serbia

From Užice we were to try something different. As previously mentioned, prices had jumped up in the whole of the Eastern European region since the warm weather had started and tourists were returning in droves. We simply couldn't afford to gallivant around as we had last summer. We looked for somewhere cheap for a month's stay and came up with a random town in Bosnia. After a quick check there was enough to keep us occupied for a longer stay there, we went for it, and booked a room in advance without actually seeing it- something we never do!!! (It worked out fine).

Unfortunately, Bosnia's train system doesn't reach as far as the border with Serbia, so we reluctantly took the bus. Buses in the Balkans, in our experience, are reasonably comfortable, but so much less pleasant scenically than trains, and always much more expensive. As well as the bus ticket, one must buy a platform ticket to get onto the bus and also pay for any luggage stowed underneath. On their own, these costs aren't huge, but it all adds up, and really irks us! This bus had the added grind of a border crossing, which unlike on a train, involves everyone disembarking, standing in a line in the sun waiting for passport control, traipsing back onto the bus, and repeating the whole procedure at the Bosnian border control. We had the added pleasure of an annoying and rowdy drunk guy behind us, leaning forward and breathing his disgusting breath all over us and commenting on everything. Luckily he fell into a coma after the passport checks. We seem to attract these sorts. 

The scenery coming into Bosnia was breath taking- we drove along a twisty, green forested valley with steep cliff surrounding us all around and no signs of towns or people. 

Bird's eye view of Mehmed Paša Sokolović Bridge, Višegrad

As we descended suddenly from the countryside into Višegrad, our first thoughts were how small the town was, and that it was kind of daggy. I know I use this word a lot. It's such a perfect description for much of what we see on our travels, but I know it's difficult for non-Aussies to completely understand the nuances of the meaning. The official definition is something like, comfortably unfashionable. We use it generally as a positive description, as we like dishevelled, uncool things, or people unconcerned about appearance or trends. Anyway, Višegrad gave off this vibe big time, and we knew we were going to be happy here.

Amongst Balkan people, Višegrad is primarily famous for it's beautiful Ottoman-era Mehmed Paša Sokolović Bridge. This bridge was completed long ago in 1577, but became even more acclaimed after the Nobel prize winning author Ivo Andrić wrote his classic historical novel, Na Drini ćuprija, known in English as The Bridge On the Drina, in 1945. The book is set in Višegrad and tells the story of the people who lived there throughout four centuries, with emphasis on relationships between Serb and Bosnian Muslim residents. It was indeed a stunning bridge, and we enjoyed hanging out in a café right next to the river with a superb view, as well as many walks along the Drina in varying directions.  

Enjoying the scenery around Višegrad

Early morning walk along the Drina River, Višegrad

Half way across the famous Mehmed Paša Sokolović Bridge, Višegrad

Glorious Ottoman-era bridge, Višegrad

A strange area on a small peninsula in the middle of town called Andrićgrad (named after the author) had us bewildered. It was built between 2011 and 2014, in a variety of old styles, and was mostly empty, with only a few buildings running as restaurants or cafes. It was only after we heard it had been constructed as a movie set for an upcoming film production that it made slightly more sense, although who knows if that project is still going ahead.

One of many statues of Ivo Andrić, in Andrićgrad, Višegrad 

Bosnia's recent history is so complicated and tragic, and perhaps better discussed in a further blog post. Višegrad itself has found itself under many rulers since its beginnings (thought to be in the 1400s). Bosnians, Serbs and Turks all had control of the town at various points in time, before the Ottomans arrived and took power in the 1500s. It was in the early 1900 under rule of the Austro- Hungarians that a railway was built that started in Sarajevo and stopped in Višegrad on it's way to Belgrade. It was the most expensive in the world at the time. What a shame maintenance wasn't kept up. The railway line is only partially running these days, and the station in Višegrad today is completely dilapidated and covered in graffiti.

Sad, dilapidated train station, Višegrad 

What a state, Višegrad's Railway station, no longer in use

World War 2 seemed to be the beginning of the country's horrific fighting between religious factions, with an unthinkable number of Serbs being killed, followed by the same on the Bosnian side. At the end of the war the Serbian nationalists had taken charge of Višegrad. 

Višegrad saw much horrendous fighting during the Bosnian War of the early 1990s, being a strategically located town and having a hydroelectric dam which controlled the level of the Drina River. The Serbs were the stronger side, and military, police and paramilitary groups terrorized the Bosnian community, with many deplorable and harrowing incidents taking place over the four years. People were detained, tortured and raped in huge numbers. Thousands of Bosniaks were massacred and many remain missing to this day. Due to many Bosnian Muslims fleeing the town or being killed, their population in Višegrad dropped from more than 60% pre-war to under 10% at the end of the war. Reading about this period is difficult and uncomfortable. To think these atrocities took place in this sleepy little town, well and truly during our life time and affecting most people walking around Višegrad today is just heart-breaking. 

When the Bosnian War was over, a peace agreement was signed, and although Bosnia was proclaimed a single sovereign state, it was divided into two parts - the Croat-Bosnian populated Federation of Bosnia and Hercegovina, and the mostly Serb populated Republika Srpska. This is the part in which Višegrad was located, and to be honest, apart from the different currency, it felt just like we were still in Serbia. There still seems to be a strong patriotism here, with many murals all over the town's walls with slogans and maps proudly celebrating the separate Republika Srpska. 

Separate parts of Bosnia and Herzegovina

"Your honourable fight is our eternal freedom"

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We alternated our time in Višegrad between walks in and around the countryside and sorting out our digital life. It was a perfect opportunity to get ourselves splendidly up to date. Mostly, walks centred around the river, wandering early in the morning when the water was flat calm, watching the many fishermen not having much luck and occasionally being accompanied by one of the towns relaxed cats. 

Boat on the Drina, Višegrad 

So many fish, not many bites, Višegrad 

Our friend for the day, Višegrad 

Newly built Orthodox cathedral, Andrićgrad, Višegrad

Little shack, Višegrad 

Weekends were a good time to hang out at one of several overflowing cafes, and watch local tourists often dressed up in their best outfits, milling around, and taking tour boats on the river. We also had our "local" café, all of two minutes walk from our little apartment. Here we stopped most days under the shade of some large trees and unwound with a draught Nikšićko beer, apricot rakia or coffee. After we had drunk the place out of apricot rakia, we moved onto another, equally delicious liquor made from hawthorn berries. *A funny note - on our first day in town, we chose an extremely dodgy looking bar to try. A handsy and very drunk guy ushered us inside and tried to push us into sitting at a table. This "welcome" combined with the ridiculously loud Serbian music playing and them only serving Jelen beer (not a fan), we realized the rowdiest bar in town is not always the best choice!

Local beer and apricot rakia, Višegrad

A Bosnian cevapi meal, Višegrad

Days were typically hot during our July stay, although a few rainy periods were a welcome break from the heat. We set out early on our walking days to avoid becoming overheated. The Orthodox Christian cross at the top of a nearby hill proved to be too much of a temptation, and we slogged our way to the top to find a magnificent 360 degree view and a plethora of butterflies and bees in amongst the wild flowers. The further we walked out of Višegrad, the more rustic and quaint the scenery became. People had set up summer gardens- an couple of folding chairs and old table in the shade of a grape vine, with shot glasses at the ready for homemade rakia. Gardens usually had plum trees and another kind of stone fruit tree at the very least. Berries on canes, and apple and pear trees heavily laden with fruit were also prevalent.

Made it to the top, hillside, Višegrad

Inside an Orthodox church, Višegrad

Delicious bounty of red and black currants we picked, Višegrad

The Drina River was chock full of fish, and Rich was in heaven watching the many fisherman giving it a go. Chub, trout and roach were all there for the taking, as well as the elusive Mladica, a famous fish called The Queen of the Drina.  

A lucky catch, Višegrad

Although we had a productive and relaxing time in Višegrad, after one month we were ready to leave, and move on to further travels - where to, who knows?

Yet another view of the stunning Mehmed Paša Sokolović Bridge, Višegrad

The cool-looking Bosnia and Hercegovina flag

.........a complete change of location and vibe.....see us here in Penang, Malaysia.........