RE-EXAMINING ROMANIA- A summing up of the state of affairs

.......previously, our last blog post from Romania, featuring the towns of Turda and Oradea, and our train journey through Hungary to get back to Serbia........

Considering Romania was a brand new country for us to travel around in, we thought we would take a minute to record some practicalities of the country. 1 GBP=5.70 RON

Breb village- our favourite place in Romania

Train travel in Romania was every bit as terrific as we had hoped. The Romanian Railway website was available as an English version and was easy to use. We would find out routes, times and prices online, and then buy a ticket directly from the station just before our trip. It also appeared that tickets could be bought on the train at the same cost. Most of the time we were able to travel where we wanted to via a direct train. Although not as cheap as in, say, neighbouring Serbia, the train price to service ratio was acceptable. The state run service CFR (!!) competed with private companies, but we found them all to be of comparable quality. Most of the trains we took were practically empty- Romanian people prefer the buses due to time restraints.

Romanian train at station

Romanian train inside

Speaking of buses, this was a common transport in Maramures. There are some trains in the region, but they didn't match up with our destination preferences and times. Mostly minibuses, they were fine- comfortable, direct, reasonably priced and the drivers didn't speed.

Hitch-hiking, however, was our main mode of transport in Maramures. It is a very acceptable way of travel in Romania, locals also partake. Sometimes money is exchanged, sometimes not. Mostly we were picked up by people curious to meet us, and the offer of money was refused. One exception to this was the main road between Sighetu and Sapanta, which seemed to be solely serviced by shared taxis. It was, perhaps, slightly more pricey than a bus, but as we paid the same as the locals, we couldn't complain. 

Accommodation was the biggest strain on our budget whilst travelling in Romania. Again, we had the issue of a unwanted and unnecessarily high standard of rooms- we are most happy with a cheap and cheerful basic room, but there are not too many of those in this part of the world. We were able to get over it, however, and enjoy the luxury! Rooms varied between wee studios, proper big apartments, hostel rooms, a shared Air B and B flat, a village cottage and small guesthouses. Regardless of the type of digs, we were paying on average around 110 RON/20GBP per night. Obviously, the accommodation with kitchens were better value, as we had the advantage of cooking for ourselves. We have found hostels in Europe to be overpriced in general, and although we sometimes stay in them for the social aspect, there are much better value for money options out there travelling as a couple. 

Fancy studio in Sibiu, Romania

Part of our apartment in Oradea, Romania

As people who know us, or read our blog will know, we love second hand clothes shopping, and Romania was a perfect place to restock our falling apart wardrobes for the coming summer. All the towns we visited had many small op shops, with fine prices and items often imported from Germany. We also visited a few big second hand clothing markets, but these didn't seem as common as, for instance, in the Balkans.

At the beginning of our visit, as we had chosen to travel in spring, there wasn't a particularly great range of fresh produce around, and many items were imported from Greece or Spain until the season got underway in Romania. As summer began in earnest, more local items such as tomatoes, lettuce, radishes, spring onion and herbs, and eventually some stone fruit started to appear on market stalls. Best of all was when the amazing strawberry season began- big, juicy and flavoursome. All the big European supermarkets were represented in Romania, and most stocked a good range of local foods and drinks. Markets were predictably fantastic. As well as offering mostly regional produce, they were great places to people watch, and see the peculiarities of a particular town. 

Yummy strawberries at Romanian market stall

Travelling on a budget, we mostly tried to cut costs by cooking ourselves and eating simply. When we sussed out the lunch special many restaurants had for the equivalent of 15 RON/2.50GPB, we ate a few meals out in traditional restaurants to try different dishes.

Fabulous food at home, Romania

Restaurant feast, with snitel, cabbage, mamaliga and pork with horseradish

We noticed many influences from the Balkan and Ottoman worlds in the Romanian cuisine- ciorba soup (the tripe version was the most popular), chiftele (kofta), fasole (bean casserole) and stuffed cabbage leaves/peppers. Austria and Hungary were represented with snitel (schnitzel) and gulas (goulash). Mamaliga (polenta) was a staple, and garlic, dill and pork appeared in a great many dishes. Rich loved the alcohol soaked "chocolate salami", a moist cake log. 

Every kind of sausage in pastry, Bucharest

Beans and sausage

Chocolate salami log

Booze was everywhere and some quite cheap and delicious local wines and beers could be found in the supermarkets. Interestingly, we didn't try the local tipple palinca (or horinca as it's known in the north) until we arrived in Maramures region, and then we had the delicious plum spirit almost every day. Another cherry flavoured liqueur we never got the name of, was also popular in this region, but it was too sweet for us. We were informed it was a ladies drink! Draft beer and palinca at a cheap bar were 4 RON/0.70GBP.

Two of the most popular beers in Romania

Romanian people could not be described as having a specific look, more of a homogenous "European" presence (whatever that means, these days). Fair-haired Saxon descendants and the odd red head, mingled with very dark, Indian-looking Roma people. The was also a relatively high presence of other ethnicities in the bigger towns, eg. Asian. We were often asked for directions etc in Romanian, indicating that if we could pass for locals, the look of the population was indeed very diverse! Roma people, although a minority, stood out in their often brilliant coloured clothes. Women went for sparkly shirts and aprons with scarves in their hair, and men often wore large brimmed black hats and waistcoats. 

Romanis dressed up for market day, Romania

The all important scarf, Romania

As we've said previously, Romanian men really do love a hat. Almost all older gentlemen wore them, as well as many younger members of the population. In particular in Maramures, men seem to stick just about anything on their head and call it a hat!

Common hat look in Romania

Saxons, Romani and Hungarians are the largest minorities in Romania today. Saxon culture remains strong, particularly in Transylvania, and Hungarians the same in the Banat region (western Romania). Numbers are less these days after the Romanian Revolution, when masses left to return to their homelands of Germany and Hungary. The Jewish community also greatly diminished after World War II when huge migration to Israel and the USA occurred.  

We noticed the difference distinctly moving from region to region, visually, but also in the attitude of people, especially when we entered the region of Maramures (populated mostly with Romanians). In the bigger towns of Transylvania and Banat people were pleasant enough, smiley and helpful if we needed it. But from Baia Mare northwards, locals showed us real kindness, and were genuinely welcoming, usually with smiles and sign language as less people spoke English in this area.

One cannot write about the Romania without mentioning how quiet the country is. Even in the bigger towns, we were rarely disturbed by any kind of noise whatsoever. Occasionally in country areas, dogs barking in the distance could get slightly annoying, but generally Romanians are subdued and calm people. This was especially amazing for us after spending the six previous months in Egypt, which is the exact opposite!!

They are a patriotic people, with Romanian flags on the streets, houses and businesses, as well as plastered on their clothes and even hats. They seem proud of the culture and heritage, and not ashamed to visually proclaim as much.

We've been reproved for our lack of maps in these Romanian blogs, sorry for that, George! Here's our movements for the last couple of months below........

A rough idea of our route through Romania, starting in Bucharest, and exiting into Hungary in the west

And that's all for Romania! We loved the country, and would definitely return for a visit, especially to the north. For now, however, we move on to new countries, and find somewhere to spend the summer.

Classic old Romanian made Dacia car

......further summer travels to Northern Serbia and Bosnia...........

TURDY TIMES TURNED AROUND- Turda and Oradea, Romania

.......our previous blog post highlighting the wonderful quirky Sighetu Marmatiei......

It was always going to be difficult to live up to the wonderful experiences we had had in Maramures in the north of Romania. The friendliness of the people and the remote and unusual sights we had seen were to be the highlights of our time in Romania. 

Common sign and sight in Romania

Right from the beginning, everything seemed to become difficult and annoying when we left the north. Taking the train to Cluj, and finding where to catch the bus to Turda from there, should have been straight forward. But a mixture of wrong information from people who were trying to be helpful, a dearth of buses on a Sunday, and wrong timetables left us frustrated. Finally, we found said bus, and make our way over the rolling hills and fields full of corn as far as the eye could see, to the town of Turda. We'd been intrigued with the place reading about the historic salt mine, but also the many other attractions that seemed to be promised on the town's website. 

We were staying right next to the town's big drawcard tourist sight- Salina Turda (Turda Salt Mine). We felt trepidation as we arrived at the accommodation we had booked, with the apartments greatly resembling council flats. The apprehension grew as we sat in the sun for some time waiting for our hosts to arrive. Luckily, when they did eventually pull up in a car, they were lovely, and had brought their nine year old grand daughter to translate the conversation into English! The apartment was much more pleasant on the inside than the out, and we were quite comfortable to stay there for the week we had booked.

The problem was, what to do for that week?

The town was not as attractive as others we'd visited in Romania, but after being in such fairy tale places such as Sighisoara, the standards were rather high!! The small centre with a limited and slightly dodgy market area was mildly interesting (more delish strawberries), and the gardens in our neighbourhood were simply gorgeous and full of bright flowers- poppies, clematis, honeysuckle and best of all fragrant roses in every colour.

Central Turda, Romania

Some old beauties in the backstreets of Turda, Romania

So many rose gardens, Turda, Romania

Sovagailor Church, or Church of the Salt Cutters, Turda, Romania

The day hikes we had planned to various natural beauty spots were not possible, due to no public transport from Turda, and being too far to walk. Hitch-hiking didn't feel a possibility in this scenario. Disheartened, but not defeated, we were determined to have a country walk, and decided on a route out of the town. Unfortunately, the beginning was the typical featureless, open farmland that is characteristic around Turda, and most uninteresting. We then became caught on a huge noisy and busy highway, with no escape. Somewhat beaten, we then walked to the local bar instead to drown our sorrows.

Countryside around Turda 

Another unsuccessful day was spent trying to see the supposedly famous Roman ruins on the outskirts of Turda. After traipsing around in the heat and coming at the site from all angles, we finally worked out from a sign that the entire area was fenced off and awaiting EU funds to be renovated. The finishing date of June 2022 seemed unlikely, and we were once again foiled. Luckily, the bar wasn't too far away. Anyway, we snobbishly thought, we have, after all, been to Baalbek, some of the best Roman ruins in the world, and these Turda ones were probably crap. (Still annoying, though!)

Two things saved out Turdish stay. The first was the truly amazing salt mine. On our travels we had seen many salt plains, where people collect salt from the sea, but had never before come across a mine. Incredibly, evidence of a mine being in Turda goes back to 1075. It seemingly continued production uninterrupted until it was closed in the 20th century. After some time, the mine was renovated as a (hugely successful) tourist attraction in 2010. The whole space was extremely well organized, with signs guiding us through the various parts of the mine. The initial cool but humid long tunnel gave way to several areas with historical equipment set up, then a massive flight of stairs led down to the bottom of the main hall, with incredible views over the action on each level. It was quite busy when we visited, and we followed a guided group of Romanian school kids, who were sweetly enthusiastic joining in with demonstrating echoes. It all got a bit strange when we arrived at the bottom of the gigantic main chamber, and saw hundreds of kids and families happily playing table tennis, mini golf and riding the Ferris wheel in a bizarre amusement park. It's obviously a way for the mine to make some extra money, and the locals seemed to love it.

Display of a salt wagon, Salina Turda, Romania

Descending the many levels inside Salina Turda, Romania

Rich and a lump of crystal-like salt, Salina Turda, Romania

Tunnels deep underground, Salina Turda, Romania

Looking down at the boating area(!), Salina Turda, Romania

Down at the bottom in the great hall with amusement park, Salina Turda, Romania

The second magnificent day we had was spent at a spa!! Not at all something we would usually do, but when the entrance fee was 22 RON/less than 4GBP each for a thermal swimming pool, jacuzzies and saunas, we were hardly going to refuse! We were not allowed to take photos in the facility, but here is a picture from their website:

A bit bummed out from our Turdy time, things turned around when we had a brilliant catch up back in Cluj with an travel buddy we knew from "the old days" in Asia. It was really restorative for us to make a connection with a travel friend from pre-Covidian times, and chat with someone on the same level of things which we were. We whiled away an afternoon and evening in a Cluj café, and came away feeling wonderfully renewed. Also, how mad that of the places we could see a random travelling friend, it was in Cluj, Romania?!!

Brilliant afternoon catching up, Cluj, Romania

Two exceptionally well kept Dacia specimens (the cars, that is), Cluj, Romania

Things got back on track (literally), when we took the train to Oradea, a city in the far west of Romania, in the Bihor region. We enjoyed the trip, noticing how the landscape had changed with the incoming summertime. Romanians appreciate camping, swimming in rivers and hiking, and the season for all that seemed to have begun. We spied many families enjoying the great outdoors from the train. Forests, waterfalls, great rivers and farmland accompanied us, leading the way to Oradea. 

On the train trip to Oradea, Bihor region, Romania

Oradea was appealing to us, as we had decided to give travelling in Hungary a miss due to high costs there. A second best choice (or maybe even better) was Oradea, a city on the border with Hungary with a high Hungarian population (around 25%) and Hungarian culture with different language, food and architecture to other regions in Romania. 

Hungarian influence, Oradea, Romania

Wonderful detail on building, Oradea, Romania

The grandeur of Oradea, Romania

Attractive window, Oradea, Romania

Our lovely apartment was a stone's throw from Oradea's main river, the Crisul Repede, and not too far from not one but two fabulous markets. Now we could really see the summer season fruits coming fast- berries of all sorts, including gooseberries, raspberries, strawberries and redcurrants. Even some stone fruit was making an appearance with rougey and juicy apricots being the star highlight. We had to hunt around a bit for palinca (Romanian plum liquor), as it was apparently not legal to sell over the counter. This seemed odd to us, as in every other market we had visited in Romania, it had been on full display. Eventually, after asking around, we found a fruit seller who furtively nipped outside and returned with a litre of the stuff for us to buy.  The apartment neighbourhood was super quiet, and we were lucky enough to be staying in a socialist-era flat, that had been jazzed up inside to be modern and comfortable.

Serene fishing scene, Oradea, Romania

Blessed are the cheese makers, Funny hats worn by cheese merchants, Oradea market

Bits and pieces sold at Oradea market, Romania

Two of our favourites, Oradea, Romania

Oradea is mainly famous for it's many grand buildings in the baroque style (which didn't excite us greatly), and Art Nouveau style (which did!). Art Nouveau is also called Secession in this Austro-Hungarian influenced part of the world, and dates roughly from the late 19th century until the beginning of the 20th century.

Baroque church with Hungarian Lazlo out the front, Oradea, Romania

A rare piece of Communist era art, Oradea, Romania

Fishing with a view of the main town, Oradea, Romania

Contrasting architecture from the 1960s, Oradea, Romania

The wealthy city was extremely pleasant for summer wanderings through small parks, over picturesque bridges, pedestrianized café precincts and around soaring palaces and giant imposing town squares. But the old town did have a bit of a sanitized feeling, without much character to it, despite the history.  The back streets were home to some slightly tatty dwellings with more personality, but on the whole when comparing those in Oradea with, for example, the wonderful Art Nouveau streets of Porto, it felt a little dry.

Old beauty being renovated in the centre of Oradea, Romania

Slightly shabby (building, not Rich), Oradea, Romania

Glorious door, Oradea, Romania

A lovely scruffy Art Nouveau example on the back streets, Oradea, Romania

Happy wanderings in Oradea, Romania

A few architectural highlights that were elevated above the rest were the Hotel Astoria and the similarly styled Black Eagle Palace, the bar strip inside the latter's stunning interior presently being renovated. Both featured whimsical curved windows, rounded shapes and light green tiles. The unique Roman Orthodox Luna Church had a sphere built into the tower showing the current moon phase, which was kind of cool. Piata Unirii really was splendid - a huge square surrounded by multitudes of stately leftovers from the Austro-Hungarian empire, with turrets, spires and towers galore, and the highlight of Oradea's architectural scene.

The Luna Church and it's moon phase display, Oradea, Romania

Piata Unririi, a grand square, Oradea, Romania

Splendid interior of Black Eagle Palace, Oradea, Romania

Beautifully detailed features on every building, Oradea, Romania

Stately Grand Astoria Hotel, Oradea, Romania

Richard continues his quest for lovely man hole covers!

Another day was spent at the Communist-era public pool, a communal place with several sulphur smelling pools, plenty of grassy space with trees for shade, a sports areas, a beer tent (of course!), and mostly fit elderly locals there on the weekday on which we visited. The vitamin D boost was most welcome, and we were reminded of how heat loving Eastern Europeans in landlocked countries are determined to get their sun fix!

A day at the socialist pool, Oradea, Romania

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We knew the day we travelled from Romania to Serbia would be a big one. For some weird reason (probably political), there is no public transport between Romania and Serbia, despite a train line being in place. This is a bit of a theme with Serbia, with train lines to Hungary, Bosnia, Croatia, North Macedonia and Bulgaria also being closed from Serbia. Very frustrating for train lovers such as us. Anyway, without even a bus option between Romania and Serbia, we decided to take the train and bus route through Hungary. As previously mentioned, we had decided not to stop in Hungary due to high costs there, and head straight on through to Northern Serbia. 

It was unbelievable, in a way, that during our tram ride, four different trains and a shuttle bus during the eight hour travel day, nothing was late, everything arrived as scheduled, and we made all the connections without encountering any problems. There is no way we would ever plan a trip like that in Asia- you couldn't rely on things being so punctual.

Our route from Romania to Serbia, through Hungary

Tongue twister of a Hungarian place name

Train happy!

The scenery to the Hungary border was mainly sunflower fields, just coming into flower, and oddly, many bison and buffalo farms. The train waiting to take us across the border was possibly the cutest we have ever seen, and certainly the smallest we have ever travelled on. Inside the interior was old fashioned, with the bathroom looking like it was straight out the 1950s. Once in Hungary, we hardly had time to appreciate the grand stations at Bekescaba and Szeged, before we were whizzing through dry farmland, and eventually arriving back into Serbia. 

Funny small border train, Romania to Hungary

The only carriage of the cute little border train, Romania to Hungary

Love the border stamps in this part of the world!

Palatial train station, Bekescaba, Hungary

Hungarian border train station

For anyone that is interested, we will be posting the last Romanian blog shortly, with more details on costs, accommodation, travel details and food. Stay tuned!!

........details and practical information about travelling in Romania.......