THE LONG AND THE SHORT- Albania travel details

......read about our time in Berat and Gjirokaster in Albania in our previous blog post.......

Sun going down from our Sarande apartment, Albania

We've added this small additional blog post with a few more details about some of the practical parts of travelling in Albania, for anyone that's interested............

Our main means of long distance transport in Albania was buses, mostly the smaller type of bus known as furgon. These were not exactly spacious, but fine for trips of a few hours. The drivers were blissfully careful and safe, we never felt in danger of lives (unlike in most countries we visit!!). Generally we found the furgon prices fair. In bigger places, local city buses around towns were cheap, frequent and comfortable. The rate was set at 30 or 40 lek/£0.22 or 0.30 a trip (depending on the town), which seemed a very sensible system. Another note about Albania transport- the popularity of bicycles in Tirana. There were many special bike lanes, and if pedestrians were not extremely vigilant about walking in the correct lane, they could be wiped off the path by the many insane riders!

An idea of our trail through Albania

An Albanian furgon

Compared to South East Asia, accommodation was expensive for us in Albania. But, of course, there was also a completely different level of comfort. That's not to say it's what we needed or wanted, only that's all that was available. It was slightly cheaper than Serbia. Prices also depended on where we were within Albania. Apparently, prices on the coast skyrocket during July and August, but even in September and October, they were higher than elsewhere in the country, and we had to search a little bit for the best bargain. The exception to this was our luxurious apartment in Sarande that we rented for one month, and as a result had a much more reasonable price. Overall, accommodation prices varied between 1500 lek/£10 in off-season Ksamil to 2400 lek/£17 in very limited and expensive Himare. Mostly we paid something like 1800 lek/£13. 

A very typical Albanian room, with a small kitchen, bathroom and balcony (and sexy legs!)

Albanian food was typically Mediterranean with salty cheeses, simple salads, fish, olives, yogurt, stuffed vegetables and vine leaves, lots of dishes with beans, eggplant, potatoes and slow cooked meat. Turkish, Greek and Italian influences were seen in dishes such as souvlaki and kofta, pizza and pasta. During our stay we were able to try a few national dishes of Albania, including fasuli (white bean casserole/soup), pastice (a kind of quiche with pasta inside) and fergese (baked dish with lamb and vegetables). Fun fact- Albanians are the fourth biggest eater of onions in the world! 

Turkish influenced gyros meal

Never seen that flavour before!

Lunch special in Vlore

Pastice and a kind of tiny pasta with chicken

We think this was fergese verore, an eggplant dish

A common bean dish,  fasuli

Baklava and similar deserts were popular in Albania, but normally these are not to our tastes, we find them too sickly sweet. 

Super sweet baklava

We were happy with the affordable food prices in Albania. A few examples- olives were 300 lek/£2 a kilo, giant juicy peaches 130 lek/£1 a kilo and a killer cappuccino was 100 lek/£0.73. Drinks menus were inevitably priced as follows- soft drinks the most expensive, followed by bottled water, then beer and cheapest of all, raki!!

Fruits that were in season during our three month visit included peaches, melons, figs, plums and grapes, and later on pears, apples and citrus. Travelling around, we noticed the many fruit trees in people's back gardens, most noticeably grape vines, but also oranges, persimmons, pomegranate, apples, figs and SO many others. It was fantastic to see a culture that valued home grown produce.

Albania had the strongest coffee culture we have ever come across, and some of the strongest coffee too! Cafes were literally every few steps in Tirana and Sarande, and even small places had more than their fair share. Albania has, in fact, the highest number of cafes per capita in the world. Love that!!! One local told us the story of his visiting Germany and being appalled at what passed for coffee there!

Our local cafe in Sarande, Albania

Raki was deliciously fruity and easy to drink, and we often partook in an afternoon sip (or three!). We quickly learnt to look for the cafe/bar where the local older men were sitting, and this was unfailably the best and cheapest option for a drink. Common varieties were grape, mulberry and plum, and the 50 lek/£0.35 price tag for an always generous shot was very welcome!! Mostly we were lucky enough to be offered the far superior home made stuff- it is a strong tradition for Albanians to make their own booze. Muslim beliefs didn't seem to interfere with the pleasure of drinking alcohol.

One quirky thing we noticed whilst travelling around was an affinity for naming things after American leaders. George W Bush street in Tirana was near the statue of Thomas Woodrow Wilson, who apparently helped defend Albania from Italian occupation (obviously not successfully!). Hilary Clinton's bust was a somewhat strange attraction in a park in Sarande- that's a phrase I never thought would be uttered in a blog post of ours! As this is not a political log, we won't comment on what kind of bizarre reason there could be to idolize that woman!

Old Woody in Tirana, Albania

Old Hilary in Sarande, Albania

Even old Dubya gets a sign!

Albanian language was a bit of a challenge. The main reason for this is that is has no relation to any other language in the world. It therefore meant learning new words and really starting from scratch! All signage etc is in Latin languages, which did make things more simple, although many letters are pronounced completely differently than they would be in English. As usual, a few words and phrases went a long way, and was appreciated by people, often bringing a large smile to faces. Sign language was still, however, our main means of communication.

We were impressed with how the rubbish was handled in both Serbia and Albania. Large skips were placed in every road, and people simply took their own trash out and dumped it in the bins. Sometimes this included large items such as furniture. More disadvantaged people in society then came along and rifled through the rubbish finding recyclables and other items they could sell. Big trucks came around to collect the rubbish once a week or so. We're not making comment on the state of poverty in these countries, only that the system works well for rubbish removal.

Overall, we were very impressed with Albania, and although it may not have been our first choice for a travel destination, we really loved our time there. So much so, it will be definitely on our itinerary for future travels. The gorgeous beaches and coastline, combined with an interesting culture and plenty of ruined castles for us to ramble through was very appealing. It's fantastic weather was a huge draw- wearing T-shirts and shorts at the beginning of December seemed amazing for somewhere in Europe! But perhaps for us, the relaxed way of the Albanian people had us most charmed. It was the perfect destination for the current climate. Next up we'll hibernating for winter in Serbia- that should be interesting!! Stay tuned! 

AUTUMN CASTLES- Gjirokaster and Berat, Albania

.....previously, our sunny beach fun on the Albanian Riviera........

After quite a long stay (for us!) in sunny Sarande, we were feeling the familiar itchy feet and decided on a trip to Gjirokaster, a nearby fortress town in the hills of inland southern Albania. The road to reach Gjirokaster was absolutely stunning, especially the climb up to a mountain pass full of autumn yellowing oaks and sweet chestnuts, and the beautifully clear river which the road followed. We then descended back into the more familiar terrain of olives and goats. 

Steep stone cobblestone streets, Gjirokaster, Albania

Autumn had arrived, Gjirokaster, Albania

A slog uphill with our backpacks awaited us on arrival, as the old town is set around a castle high up on a hillside. Our little room wasn't much to write home about, but the setting was fantastic, on a cute little cobblestone stone street leading to the old bazaar in the centre of town. The old town was charmingly higgledy-piggledy, obviously having developed over hundreds of years. It was a mix of styles and eras, having grown up in the Byzantine times in the 1300s, and then under the Ottomans for five centuries between the 1400s and the 1900s. Houses, churches, mosques and towns squares were stone and wood, with some unique designs- the huge, flat stone slab rooves being particularly quirky. 

Friendly man on his balcony, Gjirokaster, Albania

Charming gate into house, Gjirokaster, Albania

Cross between a house and a tower, Gjirokaster, Albania

View from a hilltop, Gjirokaster, Albania

Unusual wood and stone houses, Gjirokaster, Albania

Narrow laneway in Gjirokaster, Albania

The town is historically famous for it's male polyphonic singing, which we happened to hear whilst sitting having a beer. Some older gents spontaneously began to sing together drawing a crowd- not for money or show, it seemed, simply for enjoyment. 

Traditional houses on a sunny hillside, Gjirokaster, Albania

Rich on top of a hill, 

We are self-proclaimed fort fanatics, especially when we're in India, loving the grandeur of such places. As a result, we have quite high standards, but Gjirokaster Castle definitely lived up to that ideal. The minute we stepped inside the dark, dramatic interior housing dozens of field guns and other massive artillery in huge stone alcoves, we knew we were in for a treat. The informative museum lead to an outside area, which impressed us with gorgeous 360 degree views, and plenty of photographic rubble to poke around. The Ottoman-style brick arches, stairways that led to nowhere and underground spooky subterranean tunnels were all wonderfully characterful. The fact that we were the only people there was an added bonus, and added to the secluded ambience. 

Wonderful setting, Gjirokaster Castle, Albania

Inside an underground room, Gjirokaster Castle, Albania

Ruined staircases, Gjirokaster Castle, Albania

Prepared for an invasion, Gjirokaster Castle, Albania

Ancient hero, Gjirokaster Castle, Albania

Beautiful stonework, Gjirokaster Castle, Albania

Remains of the castle, Gjirokaster Castle, Albania

Directly outside the castle, the old stone buildings continued down the hillside, gradually and seamlessly transitioning into the new town.

Typical house, Gjirokaster, Albania

Old town setting, Gjirokaster, Albania

Walking down from the castle, Gjirokaster, Albania

One problem with Gjirokaster was because of it's situation on the side of a hill, at that time of year, the town received absolutely no sunlight in the afternoon. The full shade combined with lower temperatures was a bit of a shock to us after sunny Sarande! We made sure we were up very early to make the most of the lovely morning warmth for as long as possible. Another problem was the lack of cheap eats in the old part of town. Restaurants there catered to tourists, and the mini markets were poorly stocked. So we made the trek down to the more affordable new town for supplies.

Shady afternoon streets, Gjirokaster, Albania

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Onward and upwards we travelled - to Berat, the site of the biggest castle complex in the country. Again, the furgon ride was wonderfully scenic- it seems there is no other kind in Albania. Rural scenes passed us with donkeys pulling carts, olives being harvested, the last of the pomegranate and persimmon trees glowing with red fruit, newly ready citrus trees bright with oranges, and an overall lovely gold, red and brown autumn landscape, amongst the green of the olive groves. The many agricultural areas along the way highlighted Albania's self sufficiency in produce.

Beautiful autumn scenery around Berat, Albania (taken from the bus)

Although both historic towns set around ancient castles, Gjirokaster and Berat had a very different feel to each other. Berat had an unique setting, with the town straddling either side of the Osum River, one side traditionally Orthodox Christian (Gorica) and the other Muslim (Mangalemi). The fortifications high upon the northern side still housed a population of residents, as well as vestiges of ancient times. The bridges joining the quarters boasted fabulous views of the old parts with the incredible mountains in the background, constantly and magnificently changing with the weather, light and time of day.

Old town of Berat, Albania

Gorgeous bridge and mountain view, Berat, Albania

Typical Berat-style houses, Albania

Rich in Autumn colours, Berat, Albania

Detail on Berat door, Albania

We found a modest guesthouse in Gorica, and were enthusiastically welcomed by a friendly mother and son- he a recently graduated student in gender studies and her a university qualified chef. They had strong family connections with Australia, and not only were there pictures of koalas in the rooms, but mum wore an apron with the Australian flag on! Our little room was cosy and warm and the breakfast and dinners we enjoyed in the adjoining small restaurant were eaten by a wood burning stove for extra atmosphere. 

Staying warm waiting for food, Berat, Albania

We ate all our meals at the guesthouse, and as would be expected, they were splendid and all made with local ingredients. Homemade bread, jam and burek (pastry with cheese), eggs and orange juice from the garden were breakfast, and dinner included stuffed peppers, fergese (baked dish with lamb and vegetables), fasouli (bean casserole), olives and salad made with local produce. A turkey dinner was an unexpected treat. We had seen rafters of turkeys in the fields from the bus, and learned they are traditionally eaten by every family in Albania on New Year's Eve. Since we would be gone by then, it was interesting to try, but not as interesting as the turkey soup we were served for breakfast the next morning! Homemade red wine and raki rounded out the lavish meals.

Fergese and stuffed eggplant (it looks burnt, but it wasn't!)

It was satisfying to explore and become lost in the different quarters- all being exceedingly characterful and charming, with narrow, quiet cobblestone streets, many tiny dead-end lanes, cats lazing in the sun and delightful stone and wood houses descending gently up the hill. The homes were often very well looked after and decorated in an appealing manner with flowers and plants, and quite a different style from Gjirokaster, most markedly the roof tiles. 

Berat's tiled rooftops, Albania

Plenty of cute wooden doors and windows to keep Rich happy!

Looking up the hill, Berat, Albania

A town of many cats, Berat, Albania

Morning sunshine in the back lanes of Berat, Albania

Local produce for sale, backstreets, Berat, Albania

Berat style architecture, Gorica, Albania

The many churches were all tantalisingly locked behind stone walls and wooden gates sometimes containing holes we were able to peer through. We realized we have visited very few religious buildings while in Albania. This is perhaps fitting, as although there are huge numbers of Orthodox Christians, Catholics and Muslims here, religion doesn't seem to rule life in Albania- maybe it's a left over from the Communist era where religious freedom wasn't encouraged. Or perhaps, that is completely wrong!

What's behind all the walls? Berat, Albania

More cobblestone lanes and mysterious tall stone walls, Berat, Albania

Peeking the camera into a ruined house, Berat, Albania

The walk to the top of the hill and the castle was a bit of a trudge, but was worth the effort. Roman building began on the structure in the 1400s , and over the years much was added and rebuilt, especially in the 13th century. The Byzantine and Ottoman styles were the overwhelming remnants left today. The residential part was of less interest to us, with nice roads, street lamps and smart guesthouses. We spent more time exploring the ramparts, scrambling around the ruined parts of the old walls, and checking out the dilapidated remains of a subterranean cistern and various Byzantine and Ottoman churches and mosques (only from the outside, all the sites were closed when we visited). The beautiful big mountains surrounding Berat were shown off to their best advantage from the various view points around the castle, and in the valley far below were small villages with neat rows of plantations. 

Exploring the ramparts, Berat Castle, Albania

Sweeping views to the far away mountains, Berat Castle, Albania

Time out at the sun drenched castle cafe, Berat, Albania

We stayed at one particularly pleasing point near the red brick 14th century Holy Trinity Church for some time, soaking up the stunning visuals and warm sunshine.

Spectacular aspect from Holy Trinity Church, Berat, Albania

Rich pondering, Holy Trinity Church, Berat, Albania

The stroll down from the castle was hard on the knees, but several stops for coffees, or to chat briefly with the mostly friendly townspeople broke up the pain somewhat!

A repeat visit to Berat may be on the cards in the future- there is much to see in the ancient town, and three days wasn't enough for us to gain any deep insight to the place. It would also be lovely to see the difference to the town in a warm season.

Amazingly, three months had completely whizzed by since our arrival into Tirana, and we had to leave Albania. If it wasn't for the time constraint given by the three month visa waiver, we would for sure have considered Albania as a place to stay for the winter. As it was, we were also happy to be heading back to Serbia to spend December in Belgrade.

.......a short blog post to sum up costs etc in Albania, up next.......