.....previous blog post, our "Best/Worst Travel List" for 2011.....
Warning: This blog contains many potentially boring, but beautiful beach photos!
Our time in Penang had been wonderful, and busy,
and it was time to return to the beach. We crossed back into Thailand, and decided to try a few new
(for us) islands. Everyone’s been talking about Ko Muk, so we thought we’d check that out first. After a night in Trang, we joined all the other tourists
in a minibus to the pier. Trang is
unusual in Thailand for having no cheap songtaews
to get around in, only minibuses. We liked the vibe on Muk as soon as we stepped off the ferry. We had decided on a
“resort” in the village, on the other side of the island, away from the
atrociously named “Farang Beach” (farang meaning foreigner in Thai). Being relatively new to farangs
in this village, the people were very friendly, and still a little curious
about us. There were some tiny shops and stalls selling food in amongst the few
“resorts”, which made for a peaceful atmosphere. We were very active, for us, on
the island, walking through the jungle and rubber plantations everyday to the fantastic beaches around the islands and even
getting up for a sunrise!! The scenery was really stunning, with the whitest
sand being almost blinding, and because it was surprisingly busy, there were
plenty of people watching, and chatting. An amazing sign of how things are
changing, was the WIFI we had in our room.
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| Our tent on Ko Muk |
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| A secluded bay we walked to |
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| "Farang" Beach |
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| Farang Beach |
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| Rubber tree |
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| Processed rubber drying |
Wanting to
avoid the tourist minibus thing, we decided to go for Ko Libong next. We hadn't heard much about it, which we hoped would
mean it was quiet and less busy. We were very pleasantly surprised. The island
is huge, close to the mainland, and very easy to get to, with a local bus, then
small boat. There are four resorts- all on one side of Libong, and we found the one with the cheapest huts, in a lovely
setting right on the beach, which turned out to be extremely cool in the day
and cosy at night. The village was a great place to practice our Thai, with the
villagers particularly welcoming and open. The village "restaurant" (a small partially covered outdoor affair), had some of the best food we've eaten in Thailand- all coming from one lady and her wok, and that alone was reason enough for us to hang around for a few days!. The children loved waving and
shouting at us- something we have of course experienced in other places, but
never thought we would see it on the very touristy Thai islands in this area.
It is, so far, a very unspoiled place. People were really just going about
their business (mostly squid fishing), and weren't reliant on the tourists for money.
So we knew people wanted to talk to us because they were interested and
friendly, not just to sell us something, which is how it can feel sometimes in Thailand.
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| Boogie boards, Ko Libong-style |
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| Squid pots |
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| Ko Libong |
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| Ko Libong |
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| Squid- big industry on the island |
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| Our hut, Ko Libong |
Although we had not long come from Ko Fruitopia, we were drawn back by the rumour of a sea gypsy festival. Being the sort of place that it is, many of our friends from December were still hanging about there, and we joined them for a couple more weeks bumming around. The sea gypsy festival is held in the local graveyard every year on the first full moon of March, to pay respects to the ancestors. It was quite a low key day, although many gypsies came from neighbouring islands for the spectacle, setting up picnics on the graves. The morning session was full of prayer for their dead, then the traditional drumming, singing and dancing started, with everyone joining in the shuffling-type dance round the "band". The sea gypsies are officially Muslim, but this spiritual ceremony is long established within their community, and we were surprised with introduction of alcohol to the celebrations mid-morning. Apparently for this one day, they allow themselves to become paralytic (men and women) to remember their fore-bearers! As the day got steadily more rowdy, we left the locals to their fun, which all finished at sunset.
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| Morning procession |
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| Prayer time |
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| Some of the graves |
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| Traditional music |
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| Things liven up |
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| New friend |
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| Muslim island women drinking... never though we'd see that! |
The weather became more unpredictable, with what seemed to be the early onset of the monsoon, so we legged it back to Krabi for a few nights of blissful sleep with no ants, mosquitoes or mould growing on our stuff.
Another place that we'd been hearing the odd good thing about over the last few years, is Ko Bulon Lae, so we waited for some better weather, and bussed down to Satun, the closest big town to the island.
We liked this town so much that we nearly didn't make it to Ko Bulon
at all! Its quaint small town feel and river setting charmed us, and ensured a
return visit will follow. A sharp contrast, however, was the horribly
overcrowded pier area of Pak Bara, the ferry starting point for Ko Bulon.
We didn’t realize at the time, but it’s also the ferry terminal for Ko Lipe,
the island flavour of the moment in Thailand,
and we breathed a sigh of relief when the
hundreds of Asian tourists boarded the Lipe
boats, and left the terminal with only Richard and I in it! We enjoyed a nearly
private speed boat ride to Bulon,
sharing the boat with only one other couple!
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| Satun river |
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| Satun kids |
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| Outside Satun museum |
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| Fish drying, Satun |
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| Pretending we have a private boat- they think I'm weird |
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| The wanna-be captain |
The beauty of Ko Bulon
is its small size, and its low-key, pretty beaches and gardens. There are a surprisingly
large number of bungalows and restaurants for the dimensions of the place, but
it still somehow retains its serenity. This is helped by the demographic of
mostly middle-aged visitors, and, when we were there, the fact that it was just
coming into the off season. Although we had a great bungalow at low season
prices and enjoyed the gorgeous driftwood-strewn beach (the main beach area
reminded me of a nice coastal caravan park in Oz), we were actually getting to the stage of being a bit beach-ed
out (I know, poor us!), and the extreme mozzie situation was getting out of hand.
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| Local cops |
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| The view from my shady spot on the beach, Bulon |
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| Ko Bulon beach |
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| Our hut |
So, we decided to head back to Songkla for a few days, before heading back to KL, and onto our adventure for April and May.... Sumatra.
