IN THE LAND OF THE CHOCOLATE HILLS - Bohol, The Philippines

 .....previously we loved slow cycling around the northern Thai town of Phrae.........

Boarding our flight from Bangkok to Cebu, The Philippines, we were happily surprised to find we were seated in the emergency exit row. Quite gladly, we spread out with loads of legroom- the neighboring seat was also vacant, and slept for most of the four hour flight.

Well looked after cockerel in Bohol, The Philippines

Rough flight route from Bangkok, Thailand to Cebu

After quickly navigating the arrivals at the wee Cebu airport, arranging a taxi was ridiculously expensive, due to the low numbers of taxis and high amount of passengers waiting. We had no bargaining power, and were forced to pay an extortionate 500 pesos/£6.00 for the short distance to our guesthouse on Mactan Island (where the airport is located).

After a quick settle in at our average accommodation, we took a deep breath and jumped into the madhouse of Lapu Lapu area of Cebu to get our bearings.

Due to a combination of our early morning wake up, the flight and no food, we were a bit overwhelmed by the Cebu streets. A cacophony of action - cars, motorbikes, cycle and motorized tricycles, and so many pedestrians all swarmed around with no apparent order. The noise and visual stimulation nearly engulfed us, but we soon fell in step, and navigated our way around. Immediately, we found people to be super helpful. Our first priority was to change money, and we had several people, including an Iranian expat giving advice and stopping for chats. The exchange man was lovely, and we used the opportunity to ask as many questions as we could think of for our onward travels. He ended up giving us his phone number in case we needed any more assistance!

Tricycle, Mactan Island, Cebu, The Philippines

Sal excited to be eating, as usual, Cebu

In amongst the constant noise and movement, little ramshackle business and houses sat on the busy roads. Peering into the darkness, it was difficult to tell what these places were even selling. Dingy and makeshift, houses were made from random bits of corrugated iron and peeling wood of different colors, seemingly thrown together. Unexplored lane ways to further neighborhoods twisted in between. Basic pots of food and rice were on tables out the front of some shops, and a few little scruffy kids were half-heartedly begging.

Many big malls lined the main road, all had similar sounding names which had us confused. Apart from changing money, and eating, the biggest interest in the malls was the huge alcohol section in the supermarkets. Hundreds of options were available, mostly local, including beers, rums and many other varieties of booze. Sal excitedly bought some concoction claiming to be Margarita, but later discovered that although the taste was OK, the headache that proceeded it lasted the entire night.

Good selection of local booze, Cebu supermarket

Throwing ourselves into the deep end, we jumped on a bus to save a walk, and the crazily happy driver and helpful passengers assisted us to get to where we were going easily, and at the cost of only 15 pesos/£0.18. Coming back we took one of thousands of tricycles which cost only slightly more at 20 pesos/£0.24.

Although the atmosphere was buzzing and we quite liked the strangely organized mayhem, we were not upset to only be staying two nights in the city. Apart from shopping malls and crowded roads, we hadn't seen a lot, but were keen to leave the chaos get out to some natural places and appreciate more that we knew the country had to offer.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The exchange man had advised us a good port from which to get to Bohol, an island neighboring Cebu. Early the next morning, we found a tricycle on the street to take us the half an hours drive to Cordova Port, for the bargain price of 150 pesos/£1.80. Unsure of what to expect, we were happy to be dropped directly at the ferry. We bought a ticket easily, waited with fellow passengers for about half an hour, and boarded on time. All very straightforward and orderly, and no security whatsoever. We could only base our expectations on our previous trip to Palawan from Manilla years ago, when the security process took nearly as long as the overnight ferry!

Bangka boats at the Cordova port, Cebu, The Philippines

Again, on the ferry, everyone was so kind, and we loved the free-for-all system of seating. Basically, just grab a plastic chair and take it wherever one wanted to sit on the boat. We sat outside in the shade, and enjoyed the fresh air and sea view. A pod of dolphins swam with us for some time alongside the ferry, and we were just as excited as everyone else to experience this.

Not sure where to go on arrival into Getafe port in the far north of Bohol, we just walked in the heat with everyone else for a while. We then asked directions from a very camp port authority worker, who minced his way along the road to show us the bus stop. From here we packed into an AC minivan, and set off down the west coast road of Bohol. After some time, the driver stopped and showed us where to change bus to the inland road to Carmen. We found a little bus stop with some extremely friendly folk also waiting, who assured us something would be along sometime soon. One enthusiastic man, walked with Rich down to a tiny kiosk some distance away to get a much needed drink on the hot and sunny day (of course, Rich then brought us all cold drinks back, and everyone was very happy). This is the HUGE advantage to travelling in The Philippines, almost everyone speaks English to some standard, and it makes such a big difference to getting around and also communicating with everyday people. It really is fantastic and cannot be overstated enough! We were also struck at the extreme politeness of Filipinos- maybe it was to do with our age, but we were invariably called Sir and Ma'am.

Anyway, the brilliant old banger of a bus eventually came along, all open and shabby, and we paid the conductor 80 pesos/£1.00 for the half an hour trip to Carmen.

*In advance- we have to apologize to those of our readers that dislike prices in a blog. We haven't been to The Philippines for such a long time, and the prices of things interested us a great deal. We wanted to compare everything to what we pay in other parts of Asia- it's helpful for us, and other travelers will find it of interest. So, there may be some mentions of the costs of travel and accommodation.

The bus ride through the hilly center of Bohol was a joy- beautiful green plantations along side the road, and the different types of way people were living were fascinating for us. The lush combination of banana trees, coconut palms and a back drop of mountains was glorious, and we knew we had made the right choice in coming to Bohol!

Classic rice, banana and coconut palm combo, Bohol, The Philippines

Hut in the countryside, Bohol, The Philippines

Buffalo in the fields, Bohol, The Philippines

Arriving at the busy center of Carmen, there were many tricycle drivers shouting and crowds of people meeting the bus. We quickly escaped into a tiny shop to buy some much needed strong Red Horse Beer and cold water. A funny sequence of events began, when the owner asked us where we were going. Her husband came out to join in, and they both began to give advice on the best way to get to where we were going, means of transport and route. They were deliberating with each other and switching between English and Cebuano. More people squeezed in and out of the wee establishment, all putting their two cents worth in, talking loudly over each other and interrupting, and relaying information to us in the middle of the fracas. We were standing squashed with our backpacks on, trying to listen. The owner took Sal's phone to show the best way to our guesthouse, and a tricycle driver was called in to join with the chaotic conversation. We almost wished we'd never asked for help in the first place! We eventually left the crowd, still debating amongst themselves, yelling our thanks and goodbyes, and got into the waiting tricycle. The laid back driver took us the 20 minutes or so past Batuan village to the haven that was Khloe's Guesthouse, on the edge of the village, up a bumpy little country road.

Set in a cul-de-sac community of houses with lush gardens, as soon as we arrived here, we felt at home. Very attractive and rustic, the accommodation was set in a neat and colorful garden. The owners had built several lovely simple rooms around their family home to rent out to holiday makers. A lot of care had been taken to make the place clean and comfortable, and the atmosphere was characterful and communal. The owner couldn't do enough to be helpful, and was happy to sit and chat with guests. We were given a choice of a cute hut with shared bathroom for 500 peso/£6.00, or a little room with a bathroom for 700 peso/£8.70, which is the one we decided on. Some fellow travelers were staying, and not in a rush we were able to have some lovely natters about travel and life during our stay. Rich overindulged one night, having two liters of strong Red Horse beer, and like Sal in Cebu, suffered a terrible headache during the night and next morning. Not sure what goes into those local alcoholic drinks, but it cannot be quality ingredients!

Cute little room, with heart blanket

One too many Red Horse beer!

The atmosphere at Khloe's was very old school and relaxed- we simply took drinks from the fridge freely and made ourselves coffee. When we left, the lovely host simply asked us how many nights we had stayed, how long we took the motorbike for and what we had consumed, she had no idea. We had already roughly added up the bill total, and when we gave her the money, she only asked "Do you need any change?"- so trusting! Hopefully the faith the owners have in visitor's honesty will be justified and continue over time. 

Hiring a motorbike at Khloe's, Batuan

New friends at Batuan guesthouse, Bohol

Being on the outskirts of town, and the sights of the area being spread out, we decided on a motorbike for a few days. We have mixed feelings about motorbikes. The drawback is the fast speed and rushing by pretty scenes and friendly people, but sometimes it is necessary to see sights further afield, which was the case in the Batuan area.

What a magical part of the world central Bohol is. We spent four days exploring, and every day opened up a new beautiful aspect. On our first day, we simply headed off along the excellent conditioned main road without too much traffic, passing simple little shops, tiny churches and so many schools (all empty due to the Easter holidays). A range of scattered vehicles were present from bicycles, battered big buses, the same motorized tricycles we had seen in Cebu, and many home-made Frankenstein mixtures of bikes/sidecars/covers. We loved the Spanish vibe- communities and business with names like Carmen and Sevilla. A small and unkempt cemetery also highlighted the Spanish heritage here with the names on the gravestones.

Jesus poster at a road junction, Batuan, Bohol, The Philippines

Local shops, Batuan, Bohol

Local church with buffalo, Batuan, Bohol, The Philippines

Giant calabash, or upo gourd, Batuan, Bohol, The Philippines

Little angel figure at the graveyard, Batuan, Bohol

Spanish influence showing on gravestones, Batuan, Bohol, The Philippines

We turned whenever we saw a side street to be greeted with green rice fields, banana and palm trees. It was stunning scenery, and we were very happy just toodling along slowly, looking and appreciating. People here were so amazing, almost every single person we passed either beamed a smile, yelled hello or waved - a consensus of friendliness. Their behavior reminded us of people we had encountered throughout Indonesia- open and confident to talk with us. But here, because of their English it felt like we could communicate a step more. The further we strayed from the main roads, we encountered smaller communities with diminutive farms and wooden shacks. The roads worsened, sometimes only a dirt path. Grain was spread across the roads to dry, pecked at by skinny chickens, lethargic dogs lay in the middle of the way, and in many fields we saw water buffalo and goats.

On the road in Batuan, Bohol, The Philippines

Beware! (One of many holes in the backroads)

Smiley young lads, Batuan, Bohol, The Philippines

Wood and bamboo structures were the norm, Batuan, Bohol, The Philippines

Looking out from a bridge, Batuan, Bohol, The Philippines

Abandoned shack, Batuan, Bohol, The Philippines

Lovely bridge over a river, Batuan, Bohol

Working in the rice fields, Batuan, Bohol, The Philippines

Nearby Pangas Falls had been recommended to us, and riding around, we found ourselves at the entrance, quite by accident. For a steep 35 pesos/£0.45 (!!) we gained entrance to what turned out to be a glorious wide waterfall, with several appealing clear pools for swimming. Taking care of the very slippery rocks, we eased ourselves into the water and had a refreshing dip and swim, after the heat of riding around. A friendly chap making a little bit of money from selling Mojitos gave us some local info, including stories from the time during the 2011 typhoon when the water level was so high, and many roads on the island were cut off.

Pangas Falls in Chocolate Hills area, Bohol

Getting brave for the cold water! Pangas Falls, Bohol, The Philippines

Two dags at Pangas Falls, Bohol, The Philippines

Sunday was our day to wake up very early in order to ride to a sunrise point. We passed the local church lit up inside getting ready for an early Mass. The place to see the famous Chocolate Hills in Batuan was a commercial complex, complete with entrance fee and guided path to a viewpoint. We'd been told about a nearby place, where we could experience the same view in peace and for free. It was a bit of a fast scramble to the top, as we could see the sun coming up, but we arrived just in time, and were so happy to experience the light slowly spreading over the hills, and surrounding valleys.

Made it in perfect time, sunrise, Chocolate Hills, Bohol

Sal and the Chocolate Hills, Bohol

The Chocolate Hills are a geological phenomenon, only seemingly found in a roughly 50 square kilometer area of Bohol, and to a smaller degree on some neighboring islands. The official story about how they were formed is stated on Wikipedia (the absolute gospel on everything in the entire world, as we know 😉) .......

"These conical hills are geomorphological features called cockpit karst, which were created by a combination of the dissolution of limestone by rainfall, surface water, and groundwater, and their subaerial erosion by streams after they had been uplifted above sea level and fractured by tectonic processes. The hills are separated by flat plains and contain numerous caves and springs".

How boring! We always like the more maybe fanciful stories about the formation of geological anomalies- they are invariably much more fun and interesting! Here, theories about giant children building mud cakes, or maybe that they were the result of two giant's earth slinging match made us smile.

During our visit, the hills were mostly a verdant green, but during the dry season the color changes to a light brown hue, hence the name, Chocolate Hills. 

Beautiful green colour at this time of year, Chocolate Hills

Mysterious Chocolate Hills, Bohol, The Philippines

The same Sunday was Palm Sunday, and on the way back from our sunrise trip, we were happy to see worshippers pouring out of the church into the streets, all dressed up and carrying palm fronds.

A cockfighting show was going on that Sunday evening, but having seen the aftermath of a match on our last visit and remembering the razor blades attached to the cock's feet and all the blood, we refrained from attending. Our host told us some roosters could sell for a small fortune. Driving around, we saw many properties with multiple small shelters for the prized cocks- like a small house for each individual bird. There were surely being looked after well! 

Cocks for sale, Batuan, Bohol, The Philippines

The best day was an unexpected ride through some impressive old forests. Although the road wasn't the best, Rich managed very well, and we gently bounced through the majestic setting, huge trees looming over us. We recognized only the enormous figs, but there were so many other unknown species. The shady road was nearly deserted, we only passed a few guys working inside the forests, of course, always smiling and greeting us. The addition to this trip was the touristy Man Made Forest of Bilar. It was a very enchanting looking road with the thousands of planted mahogany trees pleasingly curving over to create a tunnel. But there were a few too many signs and Instagram photo takers for our liking, we preferred the natural forest we had seen earlier in the day. The adjoining mahogany walk was short, but a great chance to see the trees close up, and appreciate the beauty. And at 10 peso/£0.12 entry, ridiculously good value.

Old forest, Bilar, Bohol, The Philippines

A pleasure to drive

Mahogany forest, Bilar, Bohol, The Philippines

Delicate flower growing in the shade of the mahogany trees

Buffalo milk shop (only Sal was brave to try the slightly lumpy and creamy beverage)

Our last afternoon in Batuan was spent chasing a Chocolate Hills sunset on the motorbike. Instead we found ourselves in amongst the hills, twisting around on small roads, seeing simple fish farms and modest homes. Looking up at the color of the sky changing behind the weird shapes of the hills was a glorious way to spend our last day around Batuan.

Some rain on the way, in the Chocolate Hills, Bohol

A friendly rainbow to see us on our way, in the Chocolate Hills, Bohol

We absolutely loved this part of Bohol, a refreshingly beautiful and friendly area, and we were now ready for more adventure in a different part of the island.

Our route from Cebu to Batuan, Bohol, The Philippines

Loving Bohol, keen to continue the adventure!

...........next up, we travel to some touristy, but picturesque beachy parts of Bohol........