Saturday 2 March 2024

HOP TO IT - Kampot and Rabbit Island, Cambodia

.........our previous blog post about getting to Koh Rong Sanloem from Phnom Penh......


Rich in a garden, Kampot, Cambodia


Relieved to be off the speed boat from Koh Rong Sanloem and not feeling seasick, we made our way to Sihanoukville railway station, an ugly beast of a building in the middle of the industrial port area. Securing a ticket early (we had heard the seats get sold out), we had plenty of time to relax and eat a meal and drink a fresh coconut from the friendly lady at the simple stall on the far side of the tracks. 

More and more tourists showed up in the station, then an announcement was made that the train would be delayed by 30 minutes....and then another 30 minutes. It was hot and people were starting to get fed up. When the train was seen to be pulling in to the platform, everyone rushed to the door in order to board before the thing had even stopped. The train was completely different in style to the previous one we had taken from Phnom Penh to Kep. This one was modern, no open windows, and only two carriages- hence the scrum to get on. After we all waited for the other passengers to disembark, there was yet another announcement that there would be a further 30 minute delay. Finally, we were allowed on, waited in the stifling heat for yet another 30 minutes, then eventually the trip began (and the AC was raised to an artic temperature). 


Modern (and tiny) train from Sihanoukville to Kampot, Cambodia

On arrival at far flung Kampot station, there were not enough tuk tuks to go around, so we walked some way to a main road, and flagged one down. It took us an hour or so to find a good place to stay for a week or so, and in the end, we were happy with our room with a bathroom, fridge, two big beds and a strong fan. The friendly manager also informed us that use of the bicycles were free of charge. What a bonus!


Our Kampot room


Having visited Kampot and loved it 13 years ago, we had some recollections of eateries and spots we remembered to be cute and appealing. As we started to explore the town this time, we realized there was basically nothing at all that was was familiar. Traffic was much increased, new roads and guesthouses had been built, there were more buildings in general, and there seemed to be less of the French Colonial historic part of town, but that could have just been the encroachment of the new development. We also didn't recall there being two streets full of girlie bars! The river side now had a paved promenade, and none of our remembered places existed anymore. Although this was slightly disappointing, we adjusted, and still found many aspects of Kampot that were positive and enjoyable. It was also a relief to be back in the "real world" after being on touristy Koh Rong Sanloem. 


Giant durian roundabout at night, Kampot

Bar sign, Kampot

Wonderful remnant of French colonial architecture, Kampot

Local bakery, Kampot

Rich loved this!

Having fun in the second hand shop, Kampot


The best thing about Kampot was the food. There were so many options for eating, and we ate at a different place almost every night. Apart from the multitude of khmer and Western food restaurants and cafes, there was a night market and endless street stalls selling noodle and rice dishes.


Breakfast of champions, noodle soup

The other distinguishing thing about Kampot was the amount of expats here. Cambodia has always been popular with long term stayers because of the easy and generous visa options, but we couldn't get over the crowd here. Mostly retirees, we presumed, and mostly European men, but there was certainly a mix of all sorts, and it made for quite a cool vibe. 

Taking full advantage of the free bikes from our guesthouse, we whizzed around town most days, trying to avoid busy areas and intersections. The bicycles were a great help for Rich, not having to walk painfully about town- he's fine on a bike. Locals were actually very good defensive drivers, slow and careful. They also treated us on our bikes as absolute idiots, wary when we approached, which was probably the best technique all round. 

On the most energetic day, we cycled up to some calm and peaceful spots on the Tuek Chhu River, away from the bustle of the town centre. This area of bumpy backstreets leading to small canals and waterways was charming. Smiley people and kids waved at us, Buddhist temples had monks lazing around the grounds, and a few low-key resorts had rustic bungalows set over the water. Some also had beautiful gardens complete with picturesque bridges, and floating pontoons on the river- one even had an extensive boardwalk over the mangroves.


Strange mangrove flower, Kampot

Tuek Chhu River, Kampot

Dusty French wine bottles, Kampot

Small temple in resort grounds, Kampot

Mangrove boardwalk, Kampot

Realistic looking, but fake dollars for Chinese New Year, Kampot

Colourful pillars, Kampot Buddhist temple




Grounds of the small Buddhist temple, riverside, Kampot

Another day we took out a motorbike, in order to travel further afield. The salt fields, although not as impressive as others we've seen (the best were on Diu island in Gujarat, India) made for a compelling yet scorching day out amongst a more rural setting, quiet gravel tracks, and simple wooden houses high up on stilts. Unfortunately, as is often the case in parts of Asia, the experience was slightly marred by the excessive amounts of rubbish randomly thrown into every stream and ditch by locals. 


Water lily flower, Kampot

Salt piled up ready to be harvested, Kampot

Typical house, around Kampot


Small pot, resort grounds, Kampot

Unfortunate amount of rubbish, Kampot

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Due to our enthusiasm to arrive in Koh Rong Sanloem and see our friend before he started work, we had previously cut our time short in the lovely seaside resort of Kep. We now stopped there on the way back to Phnom Penh to complete a few activities on our list.

Number one on the list was Rabbit Island, or Koh Tonsay in Khmer language. A short ride away from the mainland on a colourful boat, the small island was a world away from the bustling scene on Koh Rong Sanloem. On arrival, which involved climbing down a ladder into the shallow sea, we were greeted by the closest bungalow owner, who showed us an adorable hut a few steps from the water for US$10 a night. We immediately took it, and liked the place. The island had no electricity, only running generators a few hours in the evening, which suited us fine for a few days. About ten small scale resorts lined the beach, all rustic, with wooden huts and sunlounges on the beach, all serving the same basic food. The usual wooden gazebos with hammocks and mats were also present for the locals who descended on the island in groups on the weekends. For a few days, we had an extremely quiet time, enjoying the fabulous sea breeze, lazing around in hammocks and on the beach. Probably the most exciting thing to happen was when a snake fell out of a tree above us and landed on Richard's foot, before slithering away in the sand.


Path between resorts, Rabbit island, Cambodia

Sunset, Rabbit island, Cambodia


Our cute hut on Rabbit island, Cambodia

Scene outside our bungalows, Rabbit island, Cambodia

Shady beach in the morning, Rabbit island, Cambodia


Tour of our bungalow, Rabbit Island

We were happy to return to Kep, and spend a couple more days exploring, including the Kep National Park and surrounds by motorbike, and eating amazing seafood at the famous crab market. 


Seafood feast, Kep, Cambodia

A few days in Phnom Penh sorting out our immediate travel plans, rounded out our two months

 Cambodian trip. We had been pleased to explore more of Cambodia's coastline towns and islands, and the laid back feeling of simple travel was just what we needed at this time. 


Our last sunset, Kep, Cambodia


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Cambodia has a lot going for it, but it is not a foodie destination, at least not in terms of khmer food. They have a few national dishes, but we found them to be a bit bland and uninteresting, especially after spending so much time in neighbouring Thailand. Amok (a mild coconut curry) and lok lak (stewed beef on rice with a fried egg) were two local dishes we did enjoy.


Beef lok lak, a khmer dish


One food aspect we did absolutely love was the baguettes, a remnant from the French era. Found absolutely everywhere, these were most basically served on the street with pate and pork, with pickles on the side, but also different restaurants stuffed them with everything imaginable.


Baguette with pork and pickles


In areas of Cambodia catering to long stay foreigners, such as the southern coast, much of the Western style food was amazing and relatively cheap, and made for a favourable change from rice and noodles. This is something unique to Cambodia in South East Asian countries, and we appreciated the contrast in cuisine. 


Roast pork Sunday lunch, complete with Yorkshire pudding!

Of course, tropical fruits were in abundance, particularly all varieties of mangoes, bright purple dragon fruit, the ever present juicy and delicious pineapples and a surprising amount of passionfruit. 

As previously stated, fruit shakes were our number one delight drinks-wise, and a close second was fresh coconut on the street, often cold and so refreshing. After much indulging of alcohol in Thailand, we didn't drink at all apart from catch up drinks with our friend on Koh Rong Sanloem. That was a shame in a way with beer being so ridiculously cheap. In fact, the prices hadn't changed much from when we were here 13 years ago, starting from 2,400 KHR/US$0.60 for a Happy Hour cold glass of draft Anchor/Angkor/Cambodian beer. 


Yummo fruit shakes, Cambodia


Our Phnom Penh obsession, cold fresh coconut
Well, maybe just one beer......

Local transport was plentiful and inventive. Phnom Penh especially was chock a block with different variations of tuk tuk, from the Indian style auto rickshaw to rormork contraptions with a carriage behind a motorbike. Cheap and easy, we used them often, usually paying 4,000KHR/US$1 for a short trip. Amazingly, some of them were attached to Grab, or other payment apps. 


Rormork with tuk tuks in background, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Phnom Penh city buses were surprisingly modern, clean, regular and air-conditioned, and a great way to travel longer distances around the city, especially at 1500 riel/US$0.36 a trip. There weren't many routes, but we quickly sussed out the ones we could make use of during our stay. 

Travel in between towns for us was a mixture of bus and train. It was so difficult to find out information about train routes and times online before we arrived in Cambodia, due to the terrible Royal Railways website, and travellers just generally not favouring train travel in Cambodia. But once there, we found it easy and cheap to book a ticket at the station. The trains types varied, the best trains being the spacious older types with open windows and bench seats, and the other being more modern with excessively cold AC, tinted closed windows but with more comfortable seats. One downside was the stations were generally not in the centre of town (apart from Phnom Penh), so a tuk tuk was required at each end of the journey. There were two railway lines from Phnom Penh, one to Sihanoukville and the other to Battambang. Both left once a day, early in the morning, and took around six hours. 


Not the most attractive train station, Sihanoukville, Cambodia

Love the open windows on the old style trains, Cambodia

Intercity buses were expensive, and pretty much the only way to get to certain places. We kept wondering how the locals travelled, as they certainly couldn't afford to pay the high bus prices- we supposed there must be a two tiered system for bus prices, as for almost everything else in Cambodia. On the plus side, the buses were generally well organized, on time, air conditioned and picked up from the hotel. 

Accommodation was generally cheap, simple rooms with fan, bathroom (always with a toothbrush, soap and comb!) and WIFI. We paid between US$8-US$15, the price seemingly dependant on the number of tourists in the vicinity. 


Our simple room in Kep, Cambodia


Cambodian map complete, for George

Close up of our route along the coast, Cambodia

......next up, we're back to Malaysia for some medical manoeuvres, we'll keep in touch......



Sunday 11 February 2024

OLD TRAINS, NEW PLACES, FAMILIAR FACES - Phnom Penh to M'Pai Bay, Cambodia

......we last published a mix of a blog from Abu Dhabi, Serbia, Hungary, Scotland and Malaysia.....


Peaceful beach on Koh Rong Sanloem, Cambodia

Applying for the visa on arrival at Phnom Penh airport was an easy, yet amusing experience. Although there were only a handful of foreigners hanging about waiting for the service, the dozens of immigration staff made the simple process somewhat chaotic and loud- shouting and laughing. It was hilarious and such a contrast with where we'd come from. In Thailand we could never imagine this happening- immigration is such a sombre procedure. Anyway, we were quickly given a 30 day stay along with some big smiles, and were on our way.

We caught a public bus outside the terminal for US$0.36/1500 KHR to the city centre and wandered around for about half an hour until we found a decent guesthouse near the Central Market. It had been a while since we've properly travelled in South East Asia, and we looked forward to this "old style" travelling, with little planning involved and not having to book things in advance. Trying to find out up to date advice about travelling in Cambodia is hit and miss, as things are constantly changing. Much information online is incorrect or out of date, and we found it better to, again, play it old style, and find out what we needed to know directly from the source, or from fellow travellers on the ground. 


Our guesthouse entrance in Phnom Penh, Cambodia

We knew we wanted to stay for two months in total in Cambodia, so we got the visa extension process going at the immigration office, which would take one week, and set out to explore the city.


Apartment blocks, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Array of food, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

First stop was the magnificent French built art deco-style Central Market to sort out some funds. Cambodia still runs on a duel economy- US dollars and their local currency Cambodian riel, or KHR. Apart from our visa and extension, most other things could be paid for with either currency. We preferred paying in KHR, but this did mean carrying around a hefty wad of notes. As well as being home to the money changers, the market also sold masses of gems, ordinary household items, tourist tack, and a food court with basic meals and to-die-for shakes. We became overly fond of the soursop version. 


Central market in it's Art Deco glory

Interior, Central Market, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Produce stall, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Jewellery setter, Central Market, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Such a seafood selection, Central Market, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Gigantic crayfish, Central Market, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Cashed up, we hit the river side. To say this area has changed since our first visit is an understatement. When we arrived in 1999 in what was then a wild west-type town, we stayed in a brothel over looking the Mekong River, and were besieged with beggars wherever we went.  Although down and outs and hookers still ply their trade down near the river, the entire waterfront has been concreted to within an inch of its life and is now used as a promenade, exercise area and boat launch. We were lucky enough to see a pair of massive Giant Hornbills in the palm trees there, apparently very rare. 


Giant hornbill, riverside, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

The street side was wall to wall tourist restaurants, cafes, hotels and massage joints. Avoiding the many girlie bars, we tried a few western-style restaurants where one could sit with a beer, or some bacon and eggs and partake in some people-watching action, with an array of weird and wonderful folk plying the streets. In one afternoon alone we witnessed a "western" guy in rags and carrying a pink handbag, covered in blood, begging from travellers in restaurants, and a blonde girl brazenly walking down the street in a tiny bikini. Then there was the local guy black with filth from head to foot, dressed in an mix of army/police uniforms with a high viz vest and wellie boots, standing at a street corner saluting and singing loudly what we imagined might be the national anthem. Next to us in a restaurant a solo young woman sat, obviously local, but cashed up, and ordering beer after beer. She was already happy when she entered, singing away to herself in a dream world, but the more she drank, the more she laughed to herself, and by the time we left she was near hysterical. From what we saw, most foreigners in Phnom Penh seemed to be middle aged to old Caucasian men, either alone or with young Cambodian pick ups. A few younger travellers filled in the gaps. 

We dragged ourselves out of bed for an early morning visit to Wat Phnom. The main temple was calm and sombre, dark and quite beautiful inside. As usual at a Buddhist temple, there was plenty of cash floating around- Buddha sitting with dollars strapped to his chest, glass cabinets filled with Buddha statues and wads of cash, and temple staff counting money. 


Money talks, Wat Phnom, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Serene morning light, Wat Phnom, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Far more interesting was the hectic shrine halfway up the hill, which was full of activity and food, including whole suckling pigs, cooked chooks and fruits. This fascinating place was mobbed, and we spent some time just observing. An alter in the back had people praying (and giving money) to unusual statues of Gods, or figures unknown to us. The strangest thing was the offerings of raw pork and eggs that were being placed into the mouths of lion statues. We sat for ages to try to snap a sneaky picture, but there were so many worshippers and it was impossible to see through the crowd. Eventually the intense aroma of incense in the air gave us a headache and we retreated down to the adjoining park for some fresh air.


Only snap we could get, lions with bacon, Wat Phnom, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Worshipping a fierce looking fellow, Wat Phnom, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Suckling pig at Wat Phnom, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Other sights were the touristy night market, which was a mix of souvenirs and food. All the different food vendors had exactly the same menu- it was just a matter of choosing the cleanest looking place. The atmosphere was actually quite nice with rattan mats set out with little tables so people could congregate sitting down and eat the food they had bought. Rich lost the ability to sit cross legged a long time ago, so we happily sat at a table and watched the activity eating a fried rice. More about Rich's knee to come- we'll keep you posted........


People enjoying the vibe and the food at the Night Market, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

A quick peek into the foyer of the exclusive Raffles Hotel, patronized by royalty and diplomats, turned into a photo shoot, tour around the ground floor and a free drink from the extremely friendly door man and manager. We worked out the price of staying one night there would be the equivalent to staying one month in our comparatively shabby guesthouse!


Two utter dags with fancy doorman, Raffles Hotel, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Lording it up at raffles with our free drink!


A wander around the old backpacker's haunt of Lakeside was a bit depressing. Once a popular and lively place for those on a budget, overlooking a lake, now the lake is gone, as have most of the accommodation options and cafes, with a pathetic few still holding out for customers and in a right state. There was a definite feeling of a faded ghost village.

Overall, we hadn't know what to expect from Phnom Penh, and once we got used to the noise (beeping horns, people constantly on their phones at full volume, loud talking, tinny music playing in the streets), we found the city to be low key and easy, if a bit undistinctive. 


Funky old tower block, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Back lanes of Phnom Penh, Cambodia

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The last time we visited Cambodia in 2011, there was no option for travelling by rail. Being the train nerds that we are, we were delighted to discover a line heading from Phnom Penh towards our next destination, Kep. 

The train was very cute, basic, with padded bench seats and open windows- just the style we like. There was even a group of monks down one end of the carriage enjoying the ride. The train was not at all busy, so we were able to spread out and enjoy the scenery. Coming out of the city, people lived by the tracks in makeshift shelters, similar to India. Once in the countryside, the landscape was mainly rice fields and lotus ponds, Brahmin cattle, water buffalo and rustic clusters of rural dwellings.  


Happy on the train, Phnom Penh to Kep

Old style train, Phnom Penh to Kep, Cambodia

Our arrival rormork, as they are called, Kep, Cambodia

Kep was new destination for us, and we enjoyed the laid back and extremely quiet vibes. Spread out over several kilometres, Kep's attractions were best seen by motorbike, and hiring one for a few days was a fabulous idea. Years ago, visiting nearby Kampot, we regularly patronised the good value restaurant Captain Chim's. Now the entire friendly Chim family had moved to Kep, and luckily for us ran a great basic but cheap guesthouse. At a nearby pier was their restaurant, a copy of the Kampot location, and we indulged in fantastic local and Western food every day. Passionfruit shakes became the new favourite


Fresh fish in a baguette, what could be better?

Colourful collection of boats at Kep, Cambodia

In the streets around the guesthouse were some ghostly remnants of times gone by. Dozens of villas from the late 19th and early 20th century remained in various states of disrepair. This area was a hub of summer homes for French colonialists wanting a respite from Phnom Penh in the heat, and later Cambodia's rich elite and royalty, who would travel to this particularly posh part of the coast to swim, socialize and gamble at casinos. In the 1970s, the Khmer Rouge put a stop to that life style with their supposed hatred for decadence, and the town never recovered. Nowadays, a few villas have been cared for and even renovated into homes or hotels, some remain in a dilapidated state, but most have been removed completely, only a stone wall and beautiful garden left. 


Decrepit ......

.....and unloved, Kep, Cambodia

This restored mansion was for sale, Kep, Cambodia

We loved whizzing up and down the coast on our motorbike, checking out the various sights. Most of the beaches were either more aimed at locals, with raised covered platforms in the shade with hammocks for picnics and relaxing, or home to fishing villages. *It has to be said- Cambodians love a hammock more than any other country we have visited. It's kind of a national obsession. 


Sitting near the local market, Kep, Cambodia

Fishing boats, Kep, Cambodia

Mobile shop on wheels, Kep, Cambodia

Hammocks lined up waiting for the hordes, Kep, Cambodia


Fisherman and marker flags, Kep, Cambodia

A short clip of Kep fishermen

A bit of effort had been put into Kep Beach to make it nice for tourists- apparently the sand came from Otres Beach along the coast. It was pleasant for soaking up a few rays and a paddle in the shallow water, but the lack of shade in the heat of the day limited our time there. 


Sunny and hot! Kep main Beach, Cambodia

Kep is known for it's low key fishing industry, especially for crabs, and we found it interesting watching the fishermen landing their catches. Every type of seafood was in the markets and a large majority must be transported to Phnom Penh, where we had seen the most incredible array. 


Crab traps drying in the sun, Kep, Cambodia

Bringing in the catch, Kep, Cambodia

Weighing the crabs, Kep, Cambodia

Weird horseshoe crabs, Kep, Cambodia


A giant crab at Phnom Penh market, Cambodia

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A long time mate of ours had been living on a tropical island off the Cambodian coast for some time, and it had been a few years since we had caught up. A past regular of Ko Fruitopia, he had been seduced by Cambodia post Covid BS, and had made a life working with tourists on Koh Rong Samleom. This had partly influenced our decision to visit Cambodia, and we couldn't wait to see him. 

To arrive at the island, we first had to get ourselves to Sihanoukville, (otherwise known as Satanicville- thanks to Liverpool Mike!). This meant we had to take the bus from Kep over the train in order to hook up with the slow ferry to Koh Rong Sanloem. What we hadn't realized was the road between Kampot and Sihanoukville was hideously bumpy and dusty, and we spent three hours being thrown around in a most uncomfortable bus journey. We enjoyed our stay in Sihanoukville years ago, but the stories going around about how developed and busy the town had become put us off a stay there this time. Our decision was justified when we saw the skyline of high rises and the humongous new ferry port. 

That was only the start, though. Once arriving in Sihanoukville with all the other tourists, they were shepherded off to their speedboats to various islands, while we jumped in a tuk tuk to a nearby pier where supply boats going out to assorted destinations were rumoured to be leaving from. Again, this information was hard to confirm online, so we were relieved when a little man standing on the pier confirmed we would be able to take a boat to M'Pai Bay on Koh Rong Sanloem at two o'clock. 

Although we were early to the pier, it was enjoyable to sit in the shade and watch the various boats being loaded up with essential goods. 


Neat old bike at the pier, Sihanoukville

Loading up the boats, Sihanoukville pier

Boats preparing to leave, Sihanoukville pier

We were called over to board a boat carrying fuel containers and gas bottles to M'Pai Bay, which left at exactly two o'clock. The first hour of sailing was fine, leaving Sihanoukville and navigating around several scenic islands. However, after this time the captain went for a nap, and an inexperienced youngster took over just when the sea became very rough. Not knowing the correct way to steer the boat, he hit every wave at the wrong angle, causing the boat to sway back and forth, and Sal to become sicker and sicker until we reached the island three hours later. It was something of a nightmare. 


Leaving the pier at Sihanoukville, Cambodia

Captain and fuel onboard

Rich not feeling at all sick, slow boat to M'Pai Bay, Koh Rong Sanloem


We had purposely done little research about Koh Rong Sanloem, and arriving on the pier, a bit worse for wear, we didn't really know what to make of the place. As we asked around for a reasonably priced room (it was high season), we realized that most of the businesses were owned/run by foreigners, which we weren't expecting. Many of these places also had foreign volunteers, making the entire village population seem heavily skewed towards outsiders. To be honest, when travelling in Asia, we normally don't patronize businesses run by foreigners, but here there wasn't a lot of choice!


Our first glimpse of M'Pai Bay, Koh Rong Sanloem

Group of tourists arriving, M'Pai Bay, Koh Rong Sanloem

Main street, M'Pai Bay, Koh Rong Sanloem

We found the cheapest room we could, a good deal in a newly built place run by an Aussie guy, and started the search for our mate, James to surprise him. He's not hard to spot, sporting a bright pink mohican, and soon we had found each other, and were catching up on news and old stories as though no time had past at all. 


Fantastic meet up with James

M'Pai Bay village is the administrative capital for the neighbouring group of islands, and was absolutely tiny. The condensed area packed with eateries and accommodation for tourists could be walked around in less than an hour- the outskirts of the village leading off into the jungle. There was also a school, police station and clinic for emergencies. 

A quick scan around the main beach at M'Pai Bay, Koh Rong Sanloem

We spent a couple of laid back weeks on the island, slightly worried we would be bored, as we were somewhat hampered by Rich's knee. But apart from hanging out with James on his amazing veranda, or in the local pub, we found enough to occupy our time. We visited the few close by beaches for a swim and lie in the soft sand, sat under shady trees on the main beach indulging in fruit shakes, and ate BBQ fish on the beach. Some abandoned resorts on a neighbouring beach made for a good afternoon's adventure, although sad to think of all the work that went into construction only for the owners to have to discard them. Watching the dozens of boats constantly coming and going from the main pier was quite riveting. As well as the many speedboats from the mainland daily, there were also boats from the big island, Koh Rong, and a multitude of day trip boats tooing and froing, not to mention the fishermen bringing in their catch. 


Left behind in an abandoned resort, M'Pai Bay, Koh Rong Sanloem

Poking about in decrepit old rooms, M'Pai Bay, Koh Rong Sanloem


Village beach, M'Pai Bay, Koh Rong Sanloem

Fishing boats, M'Pai Bay, Koh Rong Sanloem


BBQ fish on the beach US$4.00/16,000KHR

A quick note about the weather during our visit to M'Pai Bay in late January- it could not have been better. The days were hot, but not too stinking to be out and about, and the humidity was low, so not super sweaty. Cool nights for sleeping soundly, and even a couple of downpours overnight. 


Quiet Long Beach, Koh Rong Sanloem


Eventually James started his tour guide work, and the time for us to leave had arrived. Sal simply couldn't face the slow boat again, so we bit the bullet and forked out a fortune (US$12/48,000KHR each ) for a half hour speed boat ride back to Sihanoukville. 


Kids fishing off dodgy pier, M'Pai Bay, Koh Rong Sanloem

........part two of Cambodia, as we further continue our journey.........