UPS AND DOWNS OF A SEASIDE HOLIDAY - Herceg Novi, Montenegrin Coast

 ......previously, our tootling around Northern Serbia enjoying the springtime........

Walking around beautiful Herceg Novi

Excited to head to the beach and take some sun on our bodies after so long in the Middle East, we headed to the new and shiny train station in Belgrade for the trip down south. Whilst it was very grand and spacious, we much preferred the daggy, quiet version we had encountered on our previous visits to this train station. No doubt travellers before us also preferred when the train station was in the central part of Belgrade before being moved out to a woop woop suburb.  

As we waited for the famous Belgrade to Bar train to arrive, we nervously looked around at the hoards of people continuously arriving on the platform. We had been advised that this was still the quiet time of the season (early in June), and the train would probably be nearly empty. Not the case! As the train pulled in, a bit of a scrum occurred in a rush to board. 

On the train, we found ourselves in a tiny cabin without much room to turn, sit or stand, with four Russians. As the day train for this route hadn't begun yet, the beds were set up for sleeping, and all we could do was lie down. The heat was intense and we couldn't see out the windows. It was dark anyway, and the Russians kept closing the door and windows for the entire journey. It was quite an unpleasant trip with no air, and not much sleep was had. When the conductor came around shouting out the arrival at Podgorica station in the morning, we spilled out into the fresh morning air, bleary eyed and with some relief.

As tired as we were, we couldn't help but marvel at the lovely scenery on our bus trip along the coast to Herceg Novi. Passing by several famous and extremely busy-looking resort towns, we were glad we had chosen our destination. Tall green mountains came right down to the shores of picturesque Kotor Bay, and town after town stretched up the hills overlooking the water. The traffic was intense in places, with jams and roadworks, we certainly weren't expecting that so early in the season. Seems everyone was keen on an early beach holiday this year!

Finally reaching our destination, we easily found our little apartment with a view down to the sea, unpacked and flaked out. 

Herceg Novi town was like no other place we had visited. It brought to mind some fictional idyllic version of summer Mediterranean coastal life seen in a lush movie. The town was dramatically set into hills that ran down to Kotor Bay, steeply stepped paths took us to the old town center, with it's pretty umbrellaed cafes, cobble stone streets, fountains and charming churches. Not one, but three castles sat strongly and looked out at the glorious blue water of the bay- a perfect vantage point for spotting incoming ships. Around every corner was a lovely scene of flowering vines draped over wrought iron balconies on aging buildings, and stone steps leading down and around inviting corners. The fragrance of jasmine and other flowers from the beautiful gardens in the grounds of bigger villas followed us through the winding lanes. Footpaths were speckled with shade and bright bougainvillea and oleanders, and made walking a sheer delight. The ever-present views of the sea sparkling in the dazzling sunshine with small yachts and the occasional huge cruise ship entering from the Adriatic Sea could be seen from all over town.

A town of steps, Herceg Novi

Tunnel under the fort, Herceg Novi

Character filled laneways, Herceg Novi

Overlooking Kotor Bay from Herceg Novi old town

Color and fragrance, Herceg Novi

A hero amongst the greenery, Herceg Novi

What's behind the green door, Herceg Novi

Ornate water pump in town square, Herceg Novi

Herceg Novi old town square

Then there was the trudge back up the hill! Even though our wee apartment was not terribly far from the sea, the 342 steps (yes, Rich counted them!) was tough on our legs at first. After a week or so, however, we became used to the walk and it became somewhat easier. 

The steps were a killer coming up!

Warm colours around Herceg Novi old town

During our month stay the weather slowly changed from nicely warm to fiercely hot, and as the school holidays started, many more visitors arrived. It didn't really impact on us, we still enjoyed strolling about the town and the waterfront promenade, taking some sun on the pebbly beaches, braving a dip in the refreshingly cool and clear sea and relaxing on our balcony at home. The view of the sunlight reflecting on the sea, and listening to the church bells ringing gently every hour was delightful.

Strolling along the waterfront, Herceg Novi

Herceg Novi seafront

Remnants of a fortified part of the town

Early morning reflections, Herceg Novi

We love the vibe of a European beach holiday, and find it interesting watching Balkan culture at the coast. Balkan holiday makers are very tolerant with the sun, some spending hours on the beach soaking up the rays. We weren't quite so intense, but still felt the huge benefits of some sunshine on our bodies, and felt healthy and happy as a result. 

Our favourite beach, before the crowds came!

Tourists loved the waterfront and old town cafes, and the busy atmosphere and people watching were wonderful. We had our favorite café by the St Michael Archangel Orthodox Church, particularly interesting on a Sunday when people streamed in dressed modestly to pray, a big difference from the scantily clad outfits the rest of the time! One lazy Sunday afternoon, we must have looked relaxed and happy, as the waitress offered us a rakia on the house! Of course we accepted.

Beverages at the church, Herceg Novi

The tiny central market, while cute and inviting, with its little stalls and attractive produce, turned out to be most disappointing. The small amount of fruit available was ridiculously over priced- we found it cheaper to buy from the less atmospheric super market. We did, however, admire the cured meats and cheese section, the smell alone was worth a visit!

We enjoyed a few trips along the coast to nearby towns, each with its own character. Igalo in particular had a great, old style vibe, with communist-era high-rises, retro municipal buildings and shady local parks. Bijela, in the other direction was a cute and ramshackle beach holiday place catering to many families, also with a lovely atmosphere. 

Incredible abandoned swimming pool, Igalo

Retro vibes in Igalo, near Herceg Novi

We experienced a relatively minor drama when our laptop decided to stop working, and we upsettingly lost a load of photos, videos and information files from our Middle Eastern travels (not to mention having to buy a new laptop). 

One of three forts in Herceg Novi, Fort Mare

Sal's new discovery, surutka, great for the gut!

We absolutely loved our month on the Montenegrin coast, and it was exactly the Balkan summer break we had envisioned and hoped for. Sadly, towards the end of our stay, Sal's Mum passed away, which saw us rapidly changing our plans to get her back to Melbourne to be with family as soon as possible. 

Sal in a charming lane in Herceg Novi

Rich with a giant anchor, Herceg Novi

More steps and a bike, Herceg Novi

.....coming next, more travels to random and engaging Serbian towns.........

LAST OF THE MONTENEGRIN WINE - Belgrade and Utjeha, Serbia and Montenegro

.........out previous post about out train travels north through Montenegro......

It's been brought to out attention it's been a couple of months since our last post, and the reason for that is quite simple. We have been having a rather quiet time, and there's not been a lot to write about! Anyway, this is a small update of our modest movements for September and October in the Balkans......

The Sun Hostel in Belgrade has been one of our havens since we came to the Balkans a year and a half ago, and we have stayed there on and off during this time.  We were extremely lucky to discover it immediately upon our arrival in July 2020, and have absolutely loved our time there, become friends with the wonderful staff, and meeting more than a few interesting characters in the outside courtyard. It's been a great base in the area, and we have really loved the social time, as a contrast to the Air B and B type places we have stayed in where we enjoy our own company more. It's been interesting to see it's character transform from a hostel with no backpackers during last year's lockdowns, to a local party place during the winter, and different again on our return in August. We'd never really seen it as a normal functioning hostel, and it was now full of mostly young, mostly European backpackers who were flitting about the Balkans for the summer. With the odd long term traveller and the migrants passing through from "east" to "west", it was a lovely mix and we enjoyed many varied conversations.

Spomenik to victims of a Zemun Nazi concentration camp, Belgrade, Serbia

Some of the gang, Sun Hostel, Belgrade, Serbia

Belgrade was busier than ever, seemingly back to normal, and we loved the bustle of life on the city streets and in the markets. Most of August was blistering hot, and we took advantage of the Lido beach on the Danube to stay cool (see this previous blog post for details). When the temperature dropped weirdly at the end of the month, we were glad we had decided to return to Montenegro for the remainder of the summer.

Typical apartment block, Belgrade, Serbia

Renovated old railway station, Belgrade, Serbia

Quirky building detail, Belgrade, Serbia

In our last blog post we described our train journey back to Belgrade from the coast of Montenegro, where we sensibly decided to do it gradually and break up the otherwise extremely long trip. However, returning to Montenegro, we thought it would be a good idea to try the night train from Topcider in Belgrade to Bar on the coast of Montenegro all in one go. Added to this was our decision to try the "seat only" option, and save the 30 euros that was charged for two sleeper class tickets. Needless to say, it was extremely tiring, and although the seats were soft and comfortable, after 13.5 hours, we were quite fed up. We must be starting to get old!!! We were surprised to find the train quite full, with local people still holidaying in September. 

We were relieved to alight the train upon arrival in Montenegro, and after a short bus ride along the coast, we were back at Utjeha where we had spent a week or so in July. We had contacted the owner of the apartment we had previously stayed in, on the off chance we could stay for the whole month of September. Not only was it available, and an incredible price, he upgraded us to the top floor apartment which was double the size of our previous stay and had a massive balcony with a panoramic view of the Adriatic Sea!

Happy to be back at the beach, Utjeha, Montenegro

We were pleased to find Utjeha village still busy with local tourists, although nothing like the crowds present in July. Our favourite little produce stall was still open, although the fruits had moved on from berries to stone fruits and figs, which we happily partook in. We caught up on sleep after our long journey (and too many late nights at the Sun Hostel!). Temperatures were absolutely perfect- hot enough in the day for swimming in the sea, and cool enough at night not to need the AC, and sleep wonderfully. We were happy for the month, spending our days in our favourite little bay, afternoons in serious planning sessions for upcoming travels, and evenings catching up on current news and watching movies. 

A day trip was made to Stari Bar, the old part of Bar town, inland from the busy port area. We were expecting a deserted ruined place, but actually there was a substantial village there, a few streets leading to the castle filled with tourist restaurants, and a magnificent fort area. The place was peaceful on the cloudy day we chose to visit, leaving us alone to explore the ruins and enjoy the expansive views to the sea. The magnificent aqueduct was vital to the town's history, and was destroyed once during Ottoman rule, and again after a terrible earthquake in 1979. Old Bar was subsequently abandoned as the water supply was cut off, but was rebuilt both times as the aqueduct was repaired. 

Golden autumn light, Old bar, Montenegro

Misty morning at Old Bar, Montenegro

Sunlight spilling in on stone floor, Old Bar, Montenegro

Views of old wall, Old Bar, Montenegro

Taking in the scenery, Old Bar, Montenegro

Exploring hidden nooks and crannies, Old Bar, Montenegro

Entering the fortifications, Old Bar, Montenegro

Preserved walls within fort, Old Bar, Montenegro

Impressive aqueduct, Old Bar, Montenegro

Lonely chair, Old Bar, Montenegro

Loads of these lovely purple flower out, Old Bar, Montenegro

Looking out to the old part of Bar, Montenegro

Eventually, the time came to leave our little piece of paradise, and get back out into the real world, and face whatever was to come next. On the way back to Serbia, there was no doubt we would take the sleeper class on the train after our experience coming down!! Upon embarking, we were extremely excited to find we had a whole little cabin to ourselves, with comfortable bunks, clean sheets and blankets, plenty of lights and even a basin in the corner. It appeared to be an old German carriage, but was clean and still up to carrying passengers. There was some slight trepidation at the first stop on the Serbian side of the border, as we were unable to produce the required PCR test Serbia (and the rest of the Balkans) now required. But typically for the Balkans, the immigration officer simply shrugged her shoulders and stamped our passports anyway, and we continued on our journey to Belgrade.

A short video of our space on the train

Video of the train bathroom

Interesting graffiti on the side of the Bar to Belgrade train, Bar, Montenegro

Our spiffy compartment on the Bar to Belgrade train

Happy to be on the move!

October in Belgrade was spent trying to put our ideas for further travel into operation. Sal's application for a new passport held up proceedings somewhat, but before long we had made some travel decisions from the increasingly limited options available to us, and put a new plan into action. 

The world is shrinking for the likes of us- people who just want to be free to travel and have control over our own bodies and minds. But we were determined not to be negative, and find a way to continue our lifestyle, even if it wasn't exactly the same as what we might be doing in an unrestricted world.

Goodbye to another Summer!

.........our decision to spend some time in Egypt, and how we got there.......

WHIMSICAL TRAINS AND TOUNGUE TWISTING NAMES- Niksic and Podgorica, Montenegro

.......previously, our wonderful time on the Adriatic Coast on Montenegro's unique beaches.........

* Firstly, can we start off with the interesting fact that Montenegro (Black Mountain in Italian) is the name given to the country by Venetians in ancient times. The Montenegrins themselves call their country Crna Gora, which also means Black Mountain. 

As much we enjoyed spending time on the beaches in Montenegro during June and July, the prices were starting to skyrocket, and we decided to try our luck at exploring a different side to the country and head inland.

All aboard, train from Bar to Podgorica, Montenegro

The extreme tongue twister town of Niksic ("Neek-sheetch") was our destination goal, and to arrive there involved taking two trips on quite contrasting styles of trains. The first was from Bar on the coast, and was the long distance route that eventually ends up in Belgrade. This train was a little rough around the edges, and featured the same graffiti on the outside that had confused us on the Albanian train. It was, however, perfectly comfortable, and we looked forward to catching it in a couple of weeks when we headed back to Serbia. This time, however, we disembarked at Montenegro's capital, Podgorica. The train was already running late- it has a reputation as being painfully slow. At Podgorica, we changed to another train, this one more of a commuter type that would take us the one hour to Niksic. This train was very speedy and modern, and reminded us of the sort we took during our travels around Serbia last year. 

Empty train, Bar to Podgorica, Montenegro

Super clean toilet (start of the trip!)

Fellow passenger, Podgorica to Niksic train, Montenegro

Old engine, but still in use, Montenegro

The scenery on the second leg, in particular, was stunning, with the train following a green, clear river for some time, before climbing into the hills and providing a spectacular view of the majestic Bjelopavlici Plain far below. Red roofed cottages sat in little clusters, most with orchards and neat rows of produce growing in small gardens surrounded by stone walls. Despite some stations consisting only of a tiny open shed in what looked like the middle of nowhere, some passengers did alight and embark.

Although Niksic is Montenegro's second biggest city, in a country of 620,000 residents, that's not really saying much! It was a pleasant, spacious town, surrounded by mountains, and without much interesting architecture left over from the long time occupying Ottomans. But the ubiquitous cafes around the town square, small castle and shady parks made it a pleasurable place to hang out for a few days. The area in which we were staying was particularly agreeable, with huge older houses most with sizeable gardens growing produce, plus walnut and cherry plum trees, and of course, the ever present figs. The look of the gardens contrasted with those along the coastal areas we had come from, as did the evening and early morning temperatures, which were much cooler. Running out of time to visit the brewery on the edge of town producing the most famous of Montenegrin beers, Niksicko, we did ponder how many beers it would take to actually be able to pronounce the name.

Onogost castle, Niksic, Montenegro

Street art tribute, Niksic, Montenegro

Spomenik to WW2 soldiers, Niksic, Montenegro

Catholic church of St Basil, Niksic, Montenegro

Besides the train ride, our main incentive for travelling to the area was to visit the Ostrog Monastery, the most important pilgrimage place in Montenegro. In a way, it was lucky we didn't know beforehand what was involved in getting to the monastery, or we probably would not have attempted the trip, and missed out on an epic day. From the isolated and peaceful railway station in the middle of the forest, a rocky path climbed steeply up through thick trees, Although we started the day at 5am, the humidity was high, and the hike was arduous. Two hours later, we looked up and we relieved to see a small community with some farm land, a few houses and a church. After a rest in the shade and a look inside the modest church, our relief turned to dread when we realized this was only the lower monastery, and the main attraction was high up on the side of a cliff and another couple of hours of vertical walking. Looking pathetic by the side of the road, we were picked up by a holidaying family, who drove us with them to the car park of the upper monastery. We were glad we had made the effort- the situation of the monastery on the cliffside was remarkable, and the throngs had yet to pour in on day trips, so we could visit without too many crowds. The tiny cave rooms decorated with faded paintings and a long haired priest quietly intoning prayers were atmospheric but claustrophobic. Rich was underwhelmed by the place, but it was interesting watching people going about their religious business, buying and lighting candles, crossing themselves at various points, kissing icon pictures and donating to big piles of old clothes. Everyone was extremely respectful, and many women wore scarves on their heads. 

Arriving at Ostrog station, Montenegro

Climbing the first bit, already knackered!

Village on the way, Ostrog, Montenegro

Rocky path to the monastery, Ostrog, Montenegro

Looking up high to to the upper monastery, Ostrog, Montenegro

Ornate church, lower monastery, Ostrog, Montenegro

Ostrog Monastery in the cliffside, Ostrog, Montenegro

Respectfully lighting a candle, Ostrog, Montenegro

Ostrog is the most significant Orthodox site in Montenegro, and work began on the awesome location in the 1600s by the then bishop (later to become St Basil), and rebuilt in the 1920s after a fire. It's such an important place, and people come here for miracles. The most serious of the devotees walk the three kilometres between the lower and upper monastery with bare feet. As we walked back down the hill on a lovely sun speckled forest path, we noticed a few fellow walkers without shoes, and a great many pairs of discarded socks on the side of the path. Some of these were worn, some brand new. We tried out find out why people would just leave them there, but the language barrier proved a problem in discovering the answer. 

Sign for the train station! Ostrog, Montenegro

Beautiful pilgrimage forest walk, Ostrog, Montenegro

Finally arriving back down at the Ostrog train station more than six hours later, we were completely shattered, and needed the following day to recover!!

Energized again (kind of!) the following day, we made our way to Podgorica, again on the train. We had booked a place on Air B and B that looked somewhat unusual, and we weren't quite sure what would be awaiting us. After walking 20 minutes from the station, we found an odd, yet appealing neighbourhood made up of tiny houses- something like post war pre-fabs, apparently built for government workers in the 1960s. Ours was miniscule and charming, everything we needed was there, but arranged in quite an unconventional way inside. Outside was a front garden area great for drying clothes and sitting in the evening when it became cooler. A welcome feature was the AC in the bedroom, with temperatures the highest they had been yet, reaching over 40 degrees on some days. 

Our tiny Podgorica house

Old fashioned furnishings, Podgorica, Montenegro

Front yard, Podgorica, Montenegro

Situated in the middle of the country, Podgorica is the capital of Montenegro, and a quarter of Montenegrins live there. This is comically tiny, with population numbers in the city at about 180,000. Continually inhabited since Roman times, including 400 plus years of Ottoman rule, surprisingly the city is not known for it's sights. It was intensely bombed by the allies during the Second World War, which destroyed much of the historic architecture. 

Our exploration was on a Sunday morning, early before the heat of the day, and it was decidedly tranquil. We strolled around the narrow streets of the diminutive Stara Varos (old town), to the Ottoman-era stairs and bridge at the river. The confluence of the Ribnica and Moraca was slightly disappointing, as the lack of rain at this time of year meant the water level was low. A variety of picturesque bridges crossed the rivers, some pedestrianized, some ancient, and the views were attractive. The best thing about the city centre was the abundance of parks- mostly quite dry in the summer heat, but shady and cool, always with seats and a water fountain with cold drinking water. 

One of many lovely bridges, Podgorica, Montenegro

Looks like a Knight Templar? Podgorica, Montenegro

Bridge over the dry river bed, Podgorica, Montenegro

Montenegrin hero in the park, Podgorica, Montenegro

Abandoned gaol, Podgorica, Montenegro

Funky pedestrianized Hercegovacka Street with it's leafy plane trees and plethora of bars and cafes must be lively and busy at other times. Sunday morning, we found a couple of cafes open for a quiet wake up coffee, while some of the rest of the area started to come alive. 

Cafes galore, Podgorica, Montenegro

We had passed Skadar Lake on the train from Bar the previous week, and were mesmerized by the beauty of the area. As distances were short and train fares low, a day trip from Podgorica seemed a must, again starting out early to try (unsuccessfully) to beat the midday sun. The village of Virpazar was surprisingly touristy, twee and cute, a few old buildings set around a park, and buddleia bushes all out in spectacular purple flowers around the village. A series of rivers lead to the giant Skadar Lake, which straddles Montenegro and Albania, and is the largest lake in southern Europe. We had seen the lake from the Albanian town of Shkoder, but not had much chance to explore there. Many tour boats were coming and going, as bus loads of tourists started poring into the village, most seemingly on tours. We walked out of the village to some scenic spots and enjoyed the spectacular views quietly on our own. 

Arriving at Virpazar station, Montenegro

That's something to live up to! Virpazar, Montenegro

Ready for the tourists to come, Virpazar, Montenegro

A quiet spot on a hill, Virpazar, Montenegro

An abandoned house, Virpazar, Montenegro

View of the splendid Skadar lake, Virpazar, Montenegro

Backwaters, Skadar Lake, Virpazar, Montenegro

Home again on the train, Montenegro

Hillside village from the train, Montenegro

Pretty Skadar Lake from the train, Montenegro

As much as we had loved our summer "holiday" at the beach in Montenegro, we were looking forward to returning to friends and city life and spending August in Belgrade, Serbia. The famously scenic railway from Montenegro to Serbia got us there eventually- a stop in Uzice broke the long journey. The heat and crawling pace of the train between Podgorica and Uzice made the eight hour trip about all we could take- with of course, the upside being the constantly changing terrain outside the train windows. It was a varied voyage of never ending beauty, the train clutching the sides of mountains, dropping away meters from the track into deep enclosed gorges and valleys and plunging into tunnels (254 of them) every couple of minutes. Other areas featured green rolling hills with the always present red roofed village houses speckled about. It was long, but worth it.

Mountain scenery, taken from the train, Bar to Belgrade train, Montenegro and Serbia

Strikingly situated church, view from Bar to Belgrade train, Montenegro and Serbia

Our route through Montenegro

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Prices were comparatively high in Montenegro. They use the euro, and as a result the accommodation, food and transport were all much more expensive than in Serbia, North Macedonia and especially Albania. Having said that, we did choose to travel there during the high season, so perhaps we would notice a difference at another time of year. 

Food costs weren't so much an issue, as we were happy to buy lovely in-season produce and cook for ourselves, we made sure we had access to a kitchen in our accommodations for this reason. We were happy to try many Montenegrin wines to accompany our food- at less than two euros a bottle, it was hardly going to break the bank! We also took full advantage of the summer fruits, usually having piles of plums, peaches and raspberries around. 

The distances during the first part of our trip in Montenegro were so short, the transport was hardly an issue. Buses ran along the coastline regularly, and although the fares were pricey, the transport was easy and convenient. If we didn't speak up in time, it was expected we would store our bags in the luggage hold for an extra one euro each. Usually, we were able to bring them onboard with us and hold them on our laps. That's one bonus when travelling with not too huge backpacks for short distances! A common occurrence was for official or unofficial taxis to stop while we were waiting for a bus, and offer to take us to our destination for the same price. This was great for both parties- they were empty and going in that direction anyway, and it was quicker and easier for us. 

Later when we left the coast we were able to take advantage of all the train lines in Montenegro. As discussed, the train system in Montenegro is as excellent as Serbia. All the trains we took were cheap, clean, cool, and pretty punctual (with the exception of the long distance Bar to Belgrade line, which is apparently famous for never being remotely on time!). The brilliant scenery of the Montenegrin countryside was a huge added bonus, and Rich, in particular, absolutely loved gazing out the window for hours at the ever changing stunning country side.

The biggest killer on our budget was the accommodation. Prices were high- sometimes as much as double what we had been paying elsewhere in the Balkans, and not just on the coast. It was actually more reasonable in the busy touristy places on the beach, as there was a wider choice of places to stay. We simply had to bite the bullet, and do our best to find smaller family run places. Similarly to other Balkan stays, most of our rooms were mini apartments with an attached bathroom, balcony and some kind of small kitchen- at the very least a fridge. 

Podgorica street scene, Montenegro

.......next up, some back and forthing between Montenegro and Belgrade......