OH MY OMAN!- A Brief Stay in Muscat

Travelling to the Middle East from Thailand was a bit of puzzle, but after comparing costs and ease of travel, we settled on a flight to Muscat, Oman as our starting point. We had been interested in the region for some time, and thought Muscat might be a pleasing way of easing ourselves into the cultural aspects of this part of the Arab world.

Never having travelled to the Gulf States before (apart from a weeks stay in Dubai on our way to Iran 10 years ago), we were slightly apprehensive about costs, but as it turned out we managed fine, and appreciated our Omani introduction to the region. 

Omani gentleman in Muscat

Muscat has a lot of advantages for travellers. The first thing we discovered on the way to our accommodation (from the sparkling and empty airport), was the brilliant bus system. A few years back, authorities introduced a network of modern new buses, clean, comfortable, with timetables that are adhered to, cheap and easy to use. It is used almost exclusively for the many foreign workers in the city, as Omanis generally travel by car. For us it was a fantastic way to get around, and the 20 minute trip from the airport to the centre cost us only OMR 0.500/£1 each. A side note is how specially women are treated, having the entire front of the bus to sit in, with husbands and children if applicable. The Omani drivers were very strict about these arrangements, often coming back and asking single men to move to the rear of the bus.

Not being a city renowned for it's backpacker scene or budget hostels, we had pre-booked a delightfully retro hotel staffed by polite Indian employees, in a marvellous area surrounded by shops and restaurants run/worked in/patronized by people of diverse nationalities. Being the capital city, accommodation in Muscat was priced higher than other parts of Oman, with budget hotels going for between 9 OMR/£20 and 14 OMR/£30.

Our room in Muscat

Mr and Mrs Hotel Boss, Muscat

Funky, retro foyer, Muscat hotel

The only currency we've seen with a half note!

Muscat functions smoothly and excellently because of the considerable population of foreign workers. Of the roughly 5 million population  of Oman 60% are native and 40% from overseas. Most of the men come from India, Pakistan and Bangladesh, and the women from the Philippines and Indonesia. It is said they are treated quite well, and we really hope this is the case. We noticed they tend do all the service jobs- hotel workers, waiters, shops assistants, but we didn't see any working as cashiers or bus drivers, for example. It was easy for us to communicate, because everyone spoke English to each other. 

Old style little shop, Muscat

Our first day after arrival, we were excited to get out and explore a bit of the city, and set off on our first local bus. Everything was good until a car stopped in the middle of an intersection in front of our bus, and our driver was forced to break hard. Sal was in the unfortunate position of the very front seat, and the severe breaking saw her fly to the front of the bus, somehow turn around in the process, smash the back of her head (and the front windscreen), and slump down onto the floor. Not knowing the extent of any injuries, we all waited the five minutes it took for an ambulance to arrive and check her over. Deciding not to go to a hospital, after a once over from the paramedics, we took a taxi back to the hotel, where Sal nursed a sore head and bruised body for the rest of the day (while Rich stressed over her). All was good after a decent rest.

Sal's head's handy work, Muscat

Scene of the accident!

Having a check up in the ambulance, Muscat

After such a dramatic start to the trip, we proceeded to delight in the rest of our stay, with many explorations along the long strip adjacent to the Gulf of Oman that is Muscat city. 

Getting into the spirit, Omani outfits, Muscat shops

A new abaya for Sal

First stop was the modern and super clean fish market. Plenty of rugged and interesting looking characters were to be found there, selling their wares, looking for a fishy bargain, or bringing more catches in. We watched the transport of fresh fish from the boats in the port, in wheelbarrows, up to make a sale in the marketplace - some tuna we saw were as big as 55 kilos, according to the buyer we spoke to.

Removing fish from the nets, Muscat port

Cup of chai on the job, Muscat port

Sorting the giant tuna, Muscat port

A heavy load, Muscat port

Perusing the fish, Muscat fish market

Young fisherman

It is our impression that things don't get going in the Arab world terribly early- they are more an after dark culture, which makes sense here because of the heat. Arriving at the Muttrah Souq in the old part of Muscat at 9.30am to find stalls and businesses only just opening was quite surprising, but we still revelled in poking around the quiet little lanes, and looking for some regional appropriate attire for Sal. Even without much going on there was an exotic atmosphere, with frankincense smoke wafting from every corner. We will have to get used to Arab timing, and try to make ourselves stay up later and rise later in the morning!

Back lanes of Muscat Souq

Ornate ceiling in Muscat Souq

Decorative door and cat, Muscat Souq

Away from the tourist tat, Muscat Souq

Central point in Muscat Souq

A water leakage, Muscat Souq

Colourful roof in Muscat Souq

Meandering the long Corniche which runs along Muscat's old town, we noticed some lovely stone buildings with wooden lattice decorative balconies on the outside. They reminded us of Indian havelis, perhaps they were built by wealthy Indian merchants?

Lovely merchants houses on Muscat Corniche

View along the Corniche, Muscat

The scenery around this part of Muscat was quite stunning, craggy mountains protecting the coast on all sides, and the sea clear and full of fish - Richard even spotted two turtles swimming around! There was very little rubbish to be seen and numerous public parks were extremely well kept and green. Everywhere one looked in the surrounding mountains, defensive towers and forts could be seen.

A clear day on Muscat Corniche

Successful fisherman, Muscat Corniche

Tower overlooking the old town, Muscat

Towers on every hilltop, Muscat

Ryam Censor monument, apparently representing an incense burner

The forts lined up along the coast and loomed over us as we walked around them, with the azure sky and sparkling sea as a fabulous backdrop. In the middle of them all is the Al Alam Palace, a retro gold and blue stunner, looking like it should be in the middle of a Central Asian city. We would have loved a peek inside, but it's off limits to the public, so we satisfied ourselves in the surrounding gardens (see what I did there?!).

Arched cloisters in the palace grounds, Al Alam Palace, Muscat

A very well taken care of garden at Al Alam Palace, Muscat

Al Alam Palace, resplendent in gold and aqua

We also enjoyed a mildly taxing walk up to a view point, but the vista over the old town was worth the effort. 

Muscat old town

A little flower thriving in the dry ground

We have a bit of an immature tradition going, where we like to visit the worst museums in a place if they are free or cheap, and usually have a good laugh at the arrangements and displays. For some reason these are often Natural History Museums, and seeing one across the road from where we were staying in Muscat, we gave it a go. Not quite crappy enough to be funny, it was actually (disappointingly) rather well set out, although a few of the stuffed animals were pleasingly shoddy.

Not the most detailed descriptions, Muscat Natural History Museum

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Although many of the buildings around the city are relatively new, there's been some care and attention to include some heritage aspects and historical relevance into the design. It was actually very pleasing to contemplate, and quite unlike the hideous new architectural style in "the West".

Many historic elements included in the architecture in Muscat

Standing out amongst the varied architecture were the many glorious mosques. Oman is the only country with a majority Ibadi Muslim population- a branch of Islam, also known as The People of Truth and Integrity, which broke away about 60 years after Mohammadi's death. Prayer times in Muscat didn't interfere with life, people went about their business to the tune of the beautiful call to prayer- many workers are not of the Muslim faith.

The mosque next to where we stayed in Muscat

Unusual design of an older Muscat mosque

Al Zawawi Masjid in Muscat

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Considering so much of the produce and food in Oman is imported, we were pleasantly surprised at the vast range of foodstuffs in the supermarkets and souqs, and the fact that most products were reasonably priced. Many of the fruits and veggies come from Egypt, India or further afield. We especially loved the many foreign goods mixed with Arab products in the shops. There was such a tremendous range, and we were in heaven! We bought Egyptian laban and strawberries, Indian kulfi, and Omani dates and melons.

Stallholder, Muscat souq

Some weirdness going on here

Exotic goods available in Muscat

An array of conceivable type of nut and dried fruit, Muscat shop

Eating out for us was a mix of basic typical Middle Eastern eateries with such treats as ful, felafel, shawarma, hummus, and fabulous and cheap Indian restaurants- just about every region of India was represented in just our area. Other cuisines represented were Yemeni, Iranian and Pakistani and Thai to name a few. We particularly enjoyed the tarak tea, which we know from India as simply chai.

Delish Middle Eastern delights, Muscat

High quality Indian thali, Muscat

On our first night eating dinner outdoors at a basic restaurant, a big car pulled up and beeped it's horn for service (a very common practice, as we would find out). Eventually a local guy gets out to say hello to us and speak a few polite words in English. Before we knew it, he had picked up his own order, paid for our food, given Richard a big hug and kiss and driven away! So nice!

Although not illegal, alcohol is strictly controlled, and as a result most eateries have a large menu of fresh juices and mocktails. We enjoyed the break from booze, which would continue for our coming weeks in the region.

Lemon mint variety, Muscat

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During a large chunk of the 1500 and 1600s, Muscat was largely controlled by the Portuguese. Omani powers at some point became stronger and more capable, and began their own empire which stretched as far as Zanzibar.

Oman was fought over during the next few hundred years by the Portuguese and Persian dynasties, who at various times claimed coastal areas, and fought with different revolting tribal factions from the interior.

The 1800s saw Oman building up its colonies in southern Africa, Baluchistan and Pakistan, and taking advantage of the slave trade to enhance its national fortune. When Britain outlawed slavery, Oman's economy collapsed, and Britain moved in to take over it's overseas territories.

The interfering Brits then set Oman up into sections- Muscat and the coastal areas, and the interior. Nothing like divide and rule, something the Brits have been shamefully successful at over the years. Creating internal feuds between tribes, this situation eventually lead to the British taking over trade, and by 1951 they had signed a treaty to benefit from the lucrative oil supply.

Infighting between the Sultans and Imams continued until the 1970s, much of it relating to oil. A more stable, moderate leadership took place with Sultan Qaboos, who tried to balance tribal and ethnic interests. This era saw the abolishment of slavery, and many previous restrictions lifted. There was a big push for development of government, health, education and infrastructure. What we saw of the city of Muscat during our stay was largely a result of these times.

Historical forts and palace, Muscat

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We will absolutely, without a doubt come back to explore some more of Oman. We found Muscat to be a clean city without rubbish, graffiti, beggars or homeless people. Prices were reasonable and people friendly. The simple bus system was a bonus for us, and an easy alternative was the OTaxi app, which we could use without a SIM card - prices were only slightly more than the bus (for two people). But, the south of Oman called to us, and perhaps visiting some more remote locations would be an exciting adventure. January/February was such a perfect time weather-wise. Days were warm but not too hot to stroll or hike, and the nights were cool, only a light jacket needed and great for sleeping. See you next year, Oman??

Omani man, one of many style of wearing scarves!

Morning light on Muscat Port