OLD TRAINS, NEW PLACES, FAMILIAR FACES - Phnom Penh to M'Pai Bay, Cambodia

......we last published a mix of a blog from Abu Dhabi, Serbia, Hungary, Scotland and Malaysia.....

Peaceful beach on Koh Rong Sanloem, Cambodia

Applying for the visa on arrival at Phnom Penh airport was an easy, yet amusing experience. Although there were only a handful of foreigners hanging about waiting for the service, the dozens of immigration staff made the simple process somewhat chaotic and loud- shouting and laughing. It was hilarious and such a contrast with where we'd come from. In Thailand we could never imagine this happening- immigration is such a sombre procedure. Anyway, we were quickly given a 30 day stay along with some big smiles, and were on our way.

We caught a public bus outside the terminal for US$0.36/1500 KHR to the city centre and wandered around for about half an hour until we found a decent guesthouse near the Central Market. It had been a while since we've properly travelled in South East Asia, and we looked forward to this "old style" travelling, with little planning involved and not having to book things in advance. Trying to find out up to date advice about travelling in Cambodia is hit and miss, as things are constantly changing. Much information online is incorrect or out of date, and we found it better to, again, play it old style, and find out what we needed to know directly from the source, or from fellow travellers on the ground. 

Our guesthouse entrance in Phnom Penh, Cambodia

We knew we wanted to stay for two months in total in Cambodia, so we got the visa extension process going at the immigration office, which would take one week, and set out to explore the city.

Apartment blocks, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Array of food, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

First stop was the magnificent French built art deco-style Central Market to sort out some funds. Cambodia still runs on a duel economy- US dollars and their local currency Cambodian riel, or KHR. Apart from our visa and extension, most other things could be paid for with either currency. We preferred paying in KHR, but this did mean carrying around a hefty wad of notes. As well as being home to the money changers, the market also sold masses of gems, ordinary household items, tourist tack, and a food court with basic meals and to-die-for shakes. We became overly fond of the soursop version. 

Central market in it's Art Deco glory

Interior, Central Market, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Produce stall, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Jewellery setter, Central Market, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Such a seafood selection, Central Market, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Gigantic crayfish, Central Market, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Cashed up, we hit the river side. To say this area has changed since our first visit is an understatement. When we arrived in 1999 in what was then a wild west-type town, we stayed in a brothel over looking the Mekong River, and were besieged with beggars wherever we went.  Although down and outs and hookers still ply their trade down near the river, the entire waterfront has been concreted to within an inch of its life and is now used as a promenade, exercise area and boat launch. We were lucky enough to see a pair of massive Giant Hornbills in the palm trees there, apparently very rare. 

Giant hornbill, riverside, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

The street side was wall to wall tourist restaurants, cafes, hotels and massage joints. Avoiding the many girlie bars, we tried a few western-style restaurants where one could sit with a beer, or some bacon and eggs and partake in some people-watching action, with an array of weird and wonderful folk plying the streets. In one afternoon alone we witnessed a "western" guy in rags and carrying a pink handbag, covered in blood, begging from travellers in restaurants, and a blonde girl brazenly walking down the street in a tiny bikini. Then there was the local guy black with filth from head to foot, dressed in an mix of army/police uniforms with a high viz vest and wellie boots, standing at a street corner saluting and singing loudly what we imagined might be the national anthem. Next to us in a restaurant a solo young woman sat, obviously local, but cashed up, and ordering beer after beer. She was already happy when she entered, singing away to herself in a dream world, but the more she drank, the more she laughed to herself, and by the time we left she was near hysterical. From what we saw, most foreigners in Phnom Penh seemed to be middle aged to old Caucasian men, either alone or with young Cambodian pick ups. A few younger travellers filled in the gaps. 

We dragged ourselves out of bed for an early morning visit to Wat Phnom. The main temple was calm and sombre, dark and quite beautiful inside. As usual at a Buddhist temple, there was plenty of cash floating around- Buddha sitting with dollars strapped to his chest, glass cabinets filled with Buddha statues and wads of cash, and temple staff counting money. 

Money talks, Wat Phnom, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Serene morning light, Wat Phnom, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Far more interesting was the hectic shrine halfway up the hill, which was full of activity and food, including whole suckling pigs, cooked chooks and fruits. This fascinating place was mobbed, and we spent some time just observing. An alter in the back had people praying (and giving money) to unusual statues of Gods, or figures unknown to us. The strangest thing was the offerings of raw pork and eggs that were being placed into the mouths of lion statues. We sat for ages to try to snap a sneaky picture, but there were so many worshippers and it was impossible to see through the crowd. Eventually the intense aroma of incense in the air gave us a headache and we retreated down to the adjoining park for some fresh air.

Only snap we could get, lions with bacon, Wat Phnom, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Worshipping a fierce looking fellow, Wat Phnom, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Suckling pig at Wat Phnom, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Other sights were the touristy night market, which was a mix of souvenirs and food. All the different food vendors had exactly the same menu- it was just a matter of choosing the cleanest looking place. The atmosphere was actually quite nice with rattan mats set out with little tables so people could congregate sitting down and eat the food they had bought. Rich lost the ability to sit cross legged a long time ago, so we happily sat at a table and watched the activity eating a fried rice. More about Rich's knee to come- we'll keep you posted........

People enjoying the vibe and the food at the Night Market, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

A quick peek into the foyer of the exclusive Raffles Hotel, patronized by royalty and diplomats, turned into a photo shoot, tour around the ground floor and a free drink from the extremely friendly door man and manager. We worked out the price of staying one night there would be the equivalent to staying one month in our comparatively shabby guesthouse!

Two utter dags with fancy doorman, Raffles Hotel, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Lording it up at raffles with our free drink!

A wander around the old backpacker's haunt of Lakeside was a bit depressing. Once a popular and lively place for those on a budget, overlooking a lake, now the lake is gone, as have most of the accommodation options and cafes, with a pathetic few still holding out for customers and in a right state. There was a definite feeling of a faded ghost village.

Overall, we hadn't know what to expect from Phnom Penh, and once we got used to the noise (beeping horns, people constantly on their phones at full volume, loud talking, tinny music playing in the streets), we found the city to be low key and easy, if a bit undistinctive. 

Funky old tower block, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Back lanes of Phnom Penh, Cambodia

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The last time we visited Cambodia in 2011, there was no option for travelling by rail. Being the train nerds that we are, we were delighted to discover a line heading from Phnom Penh towards our next destination, Kep. 

The train was very cute, basic, with padded bench seats and open windows- just the style we like. There was even a group of monks down one end of the carriage enjoying the ride. The train was not at all busy, so we were able to spread out and enjoy the scenery. Coming out of the city, people lived by the tracks in makeshift shelters, similar to India. Once in the countryside, the landscape was mainly rice fields and lotus ponds, Brahmin cattle, water buffalo and rustic clusters of rural dwellings.  

Happy on the train, Phnom Penh to Kep

Old style train, Phnom Penh to Kep, Cambodia

Our arrival rormork, as they are called, Kep, Cambodia

Kep was new destination for us, and we enjoyed the laid back and extremely quiet vibes. Spread out over several kilometres, Kep's attractions were best seen by motorbike, and hiring one for a few days was a fabulous idea. Years ago, visiting nearby Kampot, we regularly patronised the good value restaurant Captain Chim's. Now the entire friendly Chim family had moved to Kep, and luckily for us ran a great basic but cheap guesthouse. At a nearby pier was their restaurant, a copy of the Kampot location, and we indulged in fantastic local and Western food every day. Passionfruit shakes became the new favourite. 

Fresh fish in a baguette, what could be better?

Colourful collection of boats at Kep, Cambodia

In the streets around the guesthouse were some ghostly remnants of times gone by. Dozens of villas from the late 19th and early 20th century remained in various states of disrepair. This area was a hub of summer homes for French colonialists wanting a respite from Phnom Penh in the heat, and later Cambodia's rich elite and royalty, who would travel to this particularly posh part of the coast to swim, socialize and gamble at casinos. In the 1970s, the Khmer Rouge put a stop to that life style with their supposed hatred for decadence, and the town never recovered. Nowadays, a few villas have been cared for and even renovated into homes or hotels, some remain in a dilapidated state, but most have been removed completely, only a stone wall and beautiful garden left. 

Decrepit ......

.....and unloved, Kep, Cambodia

This restored mansion was for sale, Kep, Cambodia

We loved whizzing up and down the coast on our motorbike, checking out the various sights. Most of the beaches were either more aimed at locals, with raised covered platforms in the shade with hammocks for picnics and relaxing, or home to fishing villages. *It has to be said- Cambodians love a hammock more than any other country we have visited. It's kind of a national obsession. 

Sitting near the local market, Kep, Cambodia

Fishing boats, Kep, Cambodia

Mobile shop on wheels, Kep, Cambodia

Hammocks lined up waiting for the hordes, Kep, Cambodia

Fisherman and marker flags, Kep, Cambodia

A short clip of Kep fishermen

A bit of effort had been put into Kep Beach to make it nice for tourists- apparently the sand came from Otres Beach along the coast. It was pleasant for soaking up a few rays and a paddle in the shallow water, but the lack of shade in the heat of the day limited our time there. 

Sunny and hot! Kep main Beach, Cambodia

Kep is known for it's low key fishing industry, especially for crabs, and we found it interesting watching the fishermen landing their catches. Every type of seafood was in the markets and a large majority must be transported to Phnom Penh, where we had seen the most incredible array. 

Crab traps drying in the sun, Kep, Cambodia

Bringing in the catch, Kep, Cambodia

Weighing the crabs, Kep, Cambodia

Weird horseshoe crabs, Kep, Cambodia

A giant crab at Phnom Penh market, Cambodia

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A long time mate of ours had been living on a tropical island off the Cambodian coast for some time, and it had been a few years since we had caught up. A past regular of Ko Fruitopia, he had been seduced by Cambodia post Covid BS, and had made a life working with tourists on Koh Rong Samleom. This had partly influenced our decision to visit Cambodia, and we couldn't wait to see him. 

To arrive at the island, we first had to get ourselves to Sihanoukville, (otherwise known as Satanicville- thanks to Liverpool Mike!). This meant we had to take the bus from Kep over the train in order to hook up with the slow ferry to Koh Rong Sanloem. What we hadn't realized was the road between Kampot and Sihanoukville was hideously bumpy and dusty, and we spent three hours being thrown around in a most uncomfortable bus journey. We enjoyed our stay in Sihanoukville years ago, but the stories going around about how developed and busy the town had become put us off a stay there this time. Our decision was justified when we saw the skyline of high rises and the humongous new ferry port. 

That was only the start, though. Once arriving in Sihanoukville with all the other tourists, they were shepherded off to their speedboats to various islands, while we jumped in a tuk tuk to a nearby pier where supply boats going out to assorted destinations were rumoured to be leaving from. Again, this information was hard to confirm online, so we were relieved when a little man standing on the pier confirmed we would be able to take a boat to M'Pai Bay on Koh Rong Sanloem at two o'clock. 

Although we were early to the pier, it was enjoyable to sit in the shade and watch the various boats being loaded up with essential goods. 

Neat old bike at the pier, Sihanoukville

Loading up the boats, Sihanoukville pier

Boats preparing to leave, Sihanoukville pier

We were called over to board a boat carrying fuel containers and gas bottles to M'Pai Bay, which left at exactly two o'clock. The first hour of sailing was fine, leaving Sihanoukville and navigating around several scenic islands. However, after this time the captain went for a nap, and an inexperienced youngster took over just when the sea became very rough. Not knowing the correct way to steer the boat, he hit every wave at the wrong angle, causing the boat to sway back and forth, and Sal to become sicker and sicker until we reached the island three hours later. It was something of a nightmare. 

Leaving the pier at Sihanoukville, Cambodia

Captain and fuel onboard

Rich not feeling at all sick, slow boat to M'Pai Bay, Koh Rong Sanloem

We had purposely done little research about Koh Rong Sanloem, and arriving on the pier, a bit worse for wear, we didn't really know what to make of the place. As we asked around for a reasonably priced room (it was high season), we realized that most of the businesses were owned/run by foreigners, which we weren't expecting. Many of these places also had foreign volunteers, making the entire village population seem heavily skewed towards outsiders. To be honest, when travelling in Asia, we normally don't patronize businesses run by foreigners, but here there wasn't a lot of choice!

Our first glimpse of M'Pai Bay, Koh Rong Sanloem

Group of tourists arriving, M'Pai Bay, Koh Rong Sanloem

Main street, M'Pai Bay, Koh Rong Sanloem

We found the cheapest room we could, a good deal in a newly built place run by an Aussie guy, and started the search for our mate, James to surprise him. He's not hard to spot, sporting a bright pink mohican, and soon we had found each other, and were catching up on news and old stories as though no time had past at all. 

Fantastic meet up with James

M'Pai Bay village is the administrative capital for the neighbouring group of islands, and was absolutely tiny. The condensed area packed with eateries and accommodation for tourists could be walked around in less than an hour- the outskirts of the village leading off into the jungle. There was also a school, police station and clinic for emergencies. 

A quick scan around the main beach at M'Pai Bay, Koh Rong Sanloem

We spent a couple of laid back weeks on the island, slightly worried we would be bored, as we were somewhat hampered by Rich's knee. But apart from hanging out with James on his amazing veranda, or in the local pub, we found enough to occupy our time. We visited the few close by beaches for a swim and lie in the soft sand, sat under shady trees on the main beach indulging in fruit shakes, and ate BBQ fish on the beach. Some abandoned resorts on a neighbouring beach made for a good afternoon's adventure, although sad to think of all the work that went into construction only for the owners to have to discard them. Watching the dozens of boats constantly coming and going from the main pier was quite riveting. As well as the many speedboats from the mainland daily, there were also boats from the big island, Koh Rong, and a multitude of day trip boats tooing and froing, not to mention the fishermen bringing in their catch. 

Left behind in an abandoned resort, M'Pai Bay, Koh Rong Sanloem

Poking about in decrepit old rooms, M'Pai Bay, Koh Rong Sanloem

Village beach, M'Pai Bay, Koh Rong Sanloem

Fishing boats, M'Pai Bay, Koh Rong Sanloem

BBQ fish on the beach US$4.00/16,000KHR

A quick note about the weather during our visit to M'Pai Bay in late January- it could not have been better. The days were hot, but not too stinking to be out and about, and the humidity was low, so not super sweaty. Cool nights for sleeping soundly, and even a couple of downpours overnight. 

Quiet Long Beach, Koh Rong Sanloem

Eventually James started his tour guide work, and the time for us to leave had arrived. Sal simply couldn't face the slow boat again, so we bit the bullet and forked out a fortune (US$12/48,000KHR each ) for a half hour speed boat ride back to Sihanoukville. 

Kids fishing off dodgy pier, M'Pai Bay, Koh Rong Sanloem

........part two of Cambodia, as we further continue our journey.........