SURPRISING BUSHEHR- Persian Gulf, Iran

....last post about Yazd.......

We had such a nice time travelling from Bandar Abbas to Chabahar a few weeks ago, we decided to give a go in the opposite direction, and set off westward. We were happy to leave the uncomfortable bus in Bandar Lengeh, another port town on the Persian Gulf, a few hours from Bandar Abbas. This was another option for us getting from Dubai to Iran, and after a quick look around the strangely unfriendly town, we were glad we had chosen Bandar Abbas.

We tried to hitch a lift on the road leading out of Lengeh, but after a couple of unsuccessful hours, we settled gladly for the big, comfortable and cool bus that pulled up to take us to Siraf, or Bandar Taheri.

This was another case of putting ourselves in the hands of Iran, and it didn't fail to deliver. When the bus dropped us in the middle of the highway, some nice men in a car showed us the way to Bandar Taheri, a motor bike gave us a lift into the small town, people stopped to give us a lift in a car, and when we decided to sit down and eat some pizza, a local man who spoke some English came to talk with us, and insisted on paying for our dinner! It ended up that Taheri had no hotel, but his uncle worked at the museum, where we could have a shower and sleep for the night in quite a nice room for free. The next morning, the uncle showed us around the small but surprisingly interesting museum, and around some of the sights of the city. In typically generous Iranian style, he paid for the taxis, bought us drinks and carried them (it was stinking hot), and refused any payment on our departure (we won that argument, however, after quite a struggle!)

Siraf old water system

Siraf castle

View of Siraf from castle

Siraf castle

Nice man we met in Siraf made this for us!!

Bandar Taheri was a really important port town around a thousand years ago, when the people there traded with many country’s ships, including China, India, Malaysia, Japan and Africa. Back then the town was huge, complete with mansions, a picturesque castle and sophisticated water storage systems, some of which we visited with our friendly guide.

Despite protestations it was much too hot to travel, we left midday to our next destination, Bushehr.

Bushehr was a big surprise for us. All we knew about it before arriving was that there was a contentious nuclear power plant nearby, but we didn't realize how pleasant the town would be! It had such an agreeable, progressive vibe, with wide streets, not much traffic, many seaside picnic areas and parks, and a fantastic heritage area at the tip. There was more than a whiff of affluence in the air, and the inhabitants were mostly untraditional looking, pushing the bounds of hijab with their tight clothes and barely on their heads scarves. Sal decided it was her favourite city thus far in Iran.

Mending Sal's bag, Bushehr

On the beachfront, Bushehr

With our lovely hosts, Bushehr

The reason for this for sure was Busheher’s contact with the outside world, especially European countries, through trading over hundreds of years. Many countries such as England, Holland, Russia and the Ottaman Empire even had embassies here! We could see the influence in the architecture and the people’s dress, and also in their attitudes. They were as about a liberal lot as you could find in Iran. It was also the first place in Iran to get a printing press, ice-making, and electricity. 

Our Couchsurfing host in Bushehr was a lovely young guy, who had the best English we had come across in Iran (self taught, which is very common here). It was such a pleasure to talk to him normally and be understood! His family didn't speak English a well as he, but they were so amazingly welcoming to us, we felt very spoilt and at home. Our host had very kindly agreed to accommodate us, although he had a hectic lifestyle, with study at university most mornings, followed by long shifts at a local hospital to pay for his studies. Add to that his social life, and we were sure he never slept! The nicest dinner we enjoyed with the family was a beach side picnic Bushehri style, with a big rug, chicken kebabs roasted over coals, eating till we were stuffed, then shisha and chai!

BBQ Bushehr style

Our first night we were taken to a friend’s stylish house in their house in the old town for a party, and were again surprised- this time at the fashionable young people and their cool outfits (including short skirts and revealing necklines!), and attitudes to match.  They even smoked the kelyun (shisha) with coconut milk instead of water! 

Bushehr shares the same musical tradition with Bandar Abbas (they are both classed as Bandari cultures), but the Bushehris seem to enjoy their own unique music even more than their Bandar Abbas neighbours. We were treated to a hilarious dance by two talented male friends of our host's, and we all joined in for a great night.

Fashionable youngsters (only in the house, of course), Bushehr

Party portraits, Bushehr

Our host later gave us a gift of a Bushehri music CD (which included music played on their version of the bagpipes, made from an intact goat skin), and explained to us the uniquely adverse position Iranian music artists are in. Because downloading from the internet is not illegal here, artists make nothing from album sales and only make their money through concerts.

Busheri instrument, like a bagpipe

We really loved the completely non-touristy old part of the town, and although many buildings had fallen down, and been replaced by new ones, many were being restored and appreciated. On our stroll around the tiny alleys we were invited into an old house, where the inhabitants obviously couldn't afford the renovations, but we felt lucky to see the original features that were left. An interesting feature on some of the old house was two knockers- one large with a deep knock for men and a smaller, lighter one for women. These were there in order to inform the women of the household who was calling, and whether it was appropriate for them to answer the door!

Inside old house, old Bushehr

Old Bushehr back street

Bushehr knocker

Cutie, old Bushehr

Old tree, Bushehr

Back streets of old Bushehr

Another highlight was the Ghavam Restaurant, a very special place (similar to the Traditional Teahouse in Kerman), where we enjoyed a tasty meal in sumptuous surroundings in a massive old building with high ceilings once used for water storage, filled with antiques and oozing character.

On our trips out and about in Busheher, we did see the nuclear power plant in the distance, and we have to say, we were disappointed that it looked nothing like Homer’s workplace in The Simpsons! Apparently the many Russians who work at the plant live in a special camp away from the city, and are not at all liked by locals. We were advised to get in quick that were not Russian, as because there are no tourists here, it would be presumed we were one of them! They are paid much more than their Iranian counterparts, don’t fit in well with the culture, “dress like gypsies” and bargain hard for everything!

The time came to leave the heat of the early summer in Bushehr, and drive the five hours of gorgeous scenery to Shiraz on the bus. The road was incredible, in a country full of beautiful journeys, and the twisty roads and steep rocky valleys gave way to greenness and orchards of pomegranates, olives and date palms.

...onward to Ancient Times in Shiraz and Ahvas.....