Tuesday, 6 May 2025

A DREAM FULFILLED - Petra, Jordan

 ........our final blog from Saudi Arabia, or KSA, summing up our two month stay, with Ramadan musings and some other practical information about travel.......... 




We were a bit nervous about our trip from Tabuk in northern Saudi Arabia to Wadi Musa in Jordan. It was a hour to the border, then two or more hours on the Jordanian side, and we had not been able to find any public transport options, only quotes for very expensive taxis. Deciding to set off super early, in order to have the entire day for travel if we needed it, we tried our trusty Uber app at 6 am. Plenty of drivers were about, but a few accepted, and then must have seen where we were going and cancelled. Finally, a young guy with no English accepted the lift and took us the hour north through the desert and to the remote crossing. 


Some scenery of the desert taken from the us window, Jordan

As we approached the border, a guard indicated we were not allowed to cross by foot here, and we had to be in a car. This is the first time we have come across this strange rule. A car pulled up with a well spoken Jordanian fellow driving, who stopped to help. After a quick explanation, we practically jumped into his car, not giving him much choice in taking us across the border! As it turned out, he was extremely nice and knew the border well, having worked in Jeddah for years, and crossed back and forth often. He helped us at each stage, and made the whole border process very easy for us. 

He also was driving to Amman, with a stop in Ma'an, where he could drop us for Wadi Musa. As we left the border crossing and started the long drive into the empty desert with absolutely nothing on ether side of the highway, we realized how incredibly fortunate we had been to be picked up by this man. We could easily have been waiting for a lift for hours. Upon arrival in Ma'an, he insisted on taking us directly to the Wadi Musa bus, putting us on and checking the price (as well as giving us several packets of dates). What a nice guy.


Desert shapes and colours, bus trip through southern Jordan

Our bus stopped at a university for one hour, where we were able to freely observe with interest the large number of women and girls about, and the styles of clothes they were wearing. Although everyone was modestly covered up, the contrast to Saudi was huge. Women wore multi-coloured scarves, and usually "Western" style clothes, with no abaya, maybe just a short coat to cover up. Finally the bus got going again through the dusty, rubbly, brown landscape to arrive at Wadi Musa town. We were struck by the number of children playing in the streets. We don't know where all the children were in Saudi, but we seldom saw many in one place. Another observation was the style in which Jordanian men wore their red-checked headscarves, across one shoulder. We saw the Jordanian king sporting this style in many pictures around Jordan. 

Wadi Musa is basically a tourist town primarily servicing visitors to Petra. Of course, every day people live here too, but most locals we came into contact with were financed by their dealings with tourists. The visitor numbers were dismal at the time of our visit due to the continuing conflicts in surrounding countries, and many hotels and shops were shut.

We had found a cheapy backpacker option online that we thought might be worth a go. At 10 JOD/£11 it was three times cheaper than our average hotel in Saudi. The family that greeted us was charming, and all the children spoke English as a result of their interactions with foreign guests, but the shabby room was disappointing, to say the least. We could have put up with the worn state of the room- we have certainly been in worse. But combined with no working WIFI and a broken shower, it was unacceptable. We stuck it out for two nights while our host promised to fix the shower, but once we realized this wasn't going to happen we left. Wandering down to the quiet streets around the entrance to Petra, we found a lovely room with everything we needed for just a bit extra than we had been paying for our grotty room up the hill, and felt happy to stop a while. An extra bonus was not having to walk half an hour up to the centre of Wadi Musa where most of the accommodation was after a big day at Petra. Our hotel was practically at the entrance!

We were quite exhausted from our Saudi adventures, and getting across the border, and felt we needed a few days rest to sleep, and catch up on writing and photos (a never ending task on this portion of our travels!). Then we were ready to tackle Petra.

Long on our list of places to visit, Jordan had somehow never seemed to fit in with our travel plans in the region. Now that we had finally arrived, we realized that destiny had placed us here at this time to take advantage of the perfect weather and lack of crowds. 

We had opted for the three day pass to Petra. There's a very sensible system for tourists in Jordan. We were able to purchase a Jordan Pass before arriving in the country for a cost of 80 JOD/£87. This included the cost of our visa on arrival (40 JOD/£43), and entitled us to visit Petra for three days (60 JOD/£65) as well as a number of other lesser sites around the country. It was a pretty good deal in our situation, saving 20 JOD/£21 each on the visa and Petra entrance alone.

The photographer of our partnership (Rich!) has asked to explain some of the weird light in the many photos we took at Petra. The rose coloured rock reacted strangely to being photographed, especially in the early morning light and constantly changing brightness throughout the day. 

Our first morning out, we set off before 6.30am, and began walking the wide dusty path into Petra with only a couple of other keen visitors. The sun was rising, and we walked past many carvings and paths in the rocks making mental notes to return to these if we had time. 


Eroded statue with feet and robes intact, Petra, Jordan

These were called the Obelisk Tombs, Petra, Jordan


The Siq, a stunning narrow canyon full of coloured rocks, swirls and secret carvings was the entrance to the site, and we found ourselves alone and mesmerized by the winding path. 


Entering The Siq, Petra, Jordan

Memorizing coloured swirls, Petra, Jordan

Imposing walls of The Siq, Petra, Jordan

A glimpse of Treasury through the end of The Siq, Petra
                                    

A shaky video of the initial entry to the treasury. I don't know how professional vloggers get their videos so smooth!

After some time, this passage opened up into the famous and classic Petra sight - the Treasury, or al-Kazneh. This is so iconic, and the place used extensively in the movie Indian Jones and the Last Crusade. The historic story goes that the imposing structure was an elaborate tomb - the "treasury" name referring to a legend regarding hidden money within the rocks. Whose tomb it was, or why it was so immensely grand, we never discovered. We were the second people to arrive at the Treasury that morning, and it felt strange to see the place so serene and without the crowds we were expecting. 


Gigantic pillars at the front of The Treasury, Petra, Jordan

Where the treasure is hidden? The Treasury, Petra, Jordan

Grandeur of The Treasury, Petra, Jordan


Dwarfing Sal, The Treasury, Petra, Jordan

Keeping the site tidy, Petra, Jordan

The official narrative tells us that Petra was settled by the Nabataean people in the fourth century BC. Originally nomadic, they chose Petra to settle in, and devised a sophisticated system of irrigation and water networks in order to adapt to the harsh desert environment. These Arab desert people were masterful merchants and were able to take advantage of profitable trading from Africa and India to create a trading hub, and a city that supposedly had 20,000 residents at its peak. What seemed strange to us was, unlike Al Ula, there was little evidence or talk about where all these people lived. Apart from one villa said to be inhabited by a wealthy family, everything else seemed to be tombs or temples. There must be areas in which normal residents were housed, but we didn't see any sign of them in the areas of Petra in which we were exploring. 

We are told the Nabataeans were at the height of their prosperity and power between the 1st century BC and the 1st century AD. As well as water management and trading, they seemed to have been extremely sophisticated in their love of culture, and the temples and facades at Petra suggest immense wealth available to spend on building projects and art. 


A selection of Nabataean and Roman art, Petra museum


Eventually, the Nabataeans, and Petra was taken into the Roman empire where it flourished for a long period, and there are many remainders of that time still remaining today, such as the splendid Roman road. By the Byzantine era several churches were built, but as sea routes became more common for trade, the city declined. Several earthquakes destroyed many structures, including water facilities, and the city slowly died, apart from a small number of nomadic Bedouin people. 

We didn't really have a plan for the first day, just to wander and see how far we got. After the Treasury, the Street of Facades led to The Theatre. Looking up at the majestic rock cut tombs or caves, we noticed the red and brown rocks constantly subtly changing colour with the sun movement. Apparently, Petra is also known as the Rose City because of it's famously coloured sandstone. Ancient staircases led to nowhere, and the shapes and textures of melted rocks were impressive. Much of the tomb decoration sported the same "step" pattern which we had seen in Al Ula, Saudi Arabia (another place of the Nabataeans). 


Stripey rock, Petra, Jordan

Weathered away tombs or caves, Petra, Jordan

Peeking into multicoloured cave, Petra, Jordan

We pondered the narrative about The Theatre. It seemed strange to have a civilisation of such a scale out here in the desert that they needed a massive theatre carved into the rock. Built amongst the elevated tombs and with the best view of that part of the site, it was said to have been the location of concerts and gladiator flights! Holding 8,500 people, we read that it is the biggest theatre carved out of a mountainside in the world. 


What a view! The Theatre, Petra, Jordan

Gorgeous light at sunrise, Petra, Jordan

Further along the main path, we arrived at the Colonnaded Street leading to The Great Temple, a most interesting site. Apparently built in the 1st century AD by the Nabataeans, the site was later developed by the Romans. Again, there is no evidence to suggest why the structure was built, or what purpose it served.  The term "Temple" seems to have been attached to it randomly, as with most sites at Petra- simply a theory some archaeologist put forward at one time, but disputed by others. 


Large portion of surviving Roman "Temple", Petra, Jordan

Some decorative detail on fallen rock, Roman "Temple", Petra, Jordan

Wonderful Roman Road, Petra, Jordan

Looking down on a series of pillars, Roman "Temple", Petra, Jordan

Roman "Temple", Petra, Jordan

Coming to a fork in the path, Rich suggested a walk up to the Monastery, or el-Deir, a brilliant idea, considering the area was nearly empty. We set off on a slog up 800 giant stone steps to an unexpectedly breath-taking site. 


The beginning of the trek up to el-Deir, Petra, Jordan


Views to the site below, walk to el-Deir, Petra

The easier way up, donkey and Bedouins, walk to el-Deir, Petra

Many tombs along the way, walk to el-Deir, Petra

Views galore, walk to el-Deir, Petra

First peek at the ancient el-Deir, Petra, Jordan

Arriving at the end of the stairs, we turned around to see the amazing, monumental Monastery building looming over a flat plateau. It is Petra's largest monument, completely dwarfing the Treasury, and carved into the sandstone, fifty metres tall and wide. Still early in the day, there were only a few visitors around. and we spent quite some time exploring the vicinity, and marvelling at the grandeur. Interestingly, the façade style was almost identical to the Treasury style (and many of the buildings at Petra, actually). Again, we wondered about the size of the monument, and that no evidence has been found as to its purpose. Built in the 1st century BC, the Monastery name actually comes from its use by worshippers in the Byzantine period. By the time we had finished walking to various view points of the Monastery and surrounding scenery, the crowds had arrived, and we were happy to leave. 


Colossal el-Deir, or The Monastery, Petra

We couldn't get over the size of it, el-Deir, or The Monastery, Petra

Beautiful from every angle, el-Deir, or The Monastery, Petra

Rich hanging out with the goats, el-Deir, or The Monastery, Petra

A Bedouin cave, el-Deir, or The Monastery, Petra



Checking out the view, el-Deir, or The Monastery, Petra

Spectacular desert vistas at el-Deir, or The Monastery, Petra

Sections of decoration and arches still remain, el-Deir, or The Monastery, Petra

Hardy trees grew all over at Petra, Jordan

By the time, we had walked back through Petra and out the long uphill exit road, we were knackered. An afternoon and evening rest insured some remaining energy for the following couple of days.


Tired, but excited at the end of our first day at Petra!

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Rousing ourselves at 5.30 am again, the following day saw us concentrating on the Royal Tomb area, with an additional unexpectedly long and tiring detour. Richard's knee was definitely getting another test and performed pretty well! Of course, there was a great deal of motivation when the sights were so amazing.

The Royal Tomb group were a series of gigantic, faded facades majestically looking out over the site. A massive cliff side held natural, or carved holes in the rock, carved facades, shapes and melted rockfaces. Some had very defined square shapes to the openings, other had weathered with time and merged into the rocks. Starting up the stairway to the gigantic structures, we stopped for the views over the Theatre and Great Temple, and simply kept going as far as we could, not really sure what was up ahead. It was very exciting! So the story goes, back in the heyday, these tombs would have been surrounded by ornate and lush gardens, including waterfalls, although how this is known is dubious to us. The apparent refined and large scale agriculture during the Nabataean's time, with olives, grains, figs, grapes and many more crops being grown extensively, made us wonder why this technology is not at all utilised nowadays. Most of the area we saw around Wadi Musa and Petra was quite barren, with the exception of some sad looking olive tree groves here and there. 


The Palace Tomb, Petra, Jordan

The Palace Tomb, Petra, Jordan

Sal and dazzling rock colours, Royal Tombs, Petra, Jordan

Early morning at The Royal Tombs, Petra, Jordan

Free to explore on our own, Petra, Jordan

Corinthian Tomb, Petra, Jordan

Stripes and swirls in the fascinating rock, Petra, Jordan


In awe at The Royal Tombs, Petra, Jordan

The Urn Tomb, Petra, Jordan

The size compared to the people is mammoth!

Lonely guy on top of The Urn Tomb, Petra, Jordan


We passed gigantic tomb after tomb, and eventually, we were heading into a rocky cliff, with a long stairway of stone steps ahead of us. We started the climb, and when we eventually saw some other people, Russians, coming down, we asked them where we were heading. They told us the path led back to the Treasury. This was fantastic news, as it would save us probably a couple of hours of walking back. After slogging up and up some more, some young Brits coming down informed us that the path did indeed go to the Treasury, but there was only a view, no access down to the main path. We were so exhausted already from all the walking, and considered turning back. They assured us the view was worth continuing the walk to the end, so we kept going and were glad that we did. Discovering a solitary viewpoint far away from the hordes below us, we were stunned by the fantastic vista and unusual vantage point of the popular Treasury building. With only a handful of hardy folk around, we enjoyed a chat with them, and braced ourselves for the interminable trek back to the exit. 


This was only the beginning, walk to Treasury lookout

Mountain goats clinging to the cliffside, Petra

More goats on the way, walk to Treasury lookout, Petra

Spectacular view down to the Theatre, walk to Treasury lookout, Petra

Finally made it to the Treasury lookout, Petra

Sore legs, but happy! Treasury lookout, Petra


The slog was partially eased by observing the interesting crowds. The Eid hordes had arrived, and the Treasury and Siq were completely packed with Arab families and friend groups enthusiastically enjoying their holidays at the end of Ramadan. 


The hordes had arrived, Petra, Jordan

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We limited ourselves on our last day to a self imposed strict half-day walk. We had done much more than we intended on the first two days, having been carried away with the wonder and excitement of it all, and found ourselves thoroughly tired! There was one trek yet we wanted to achieve, and that was the High Place of Sacrifice walk. The highest place in Petra, this was the site, supposedly, for sacrifices to the Nabataean God, Dushara. Setting off very early in the morning, again, we found ourselves alone on the steep steps leading to the top. As usual when we arrived there was a tea/souvenir stall there, this hardy family apparently living in the remote location. The views were outstanding, and standing on the stone alter looking out and down at the magnificent tombs and temples below with the rocky outcrops behind, we felt on top of the world. Interestingly, no evidence has been discovered at Petra as to what took place in these high places, only that there were probably rituals and animal sacrifices. Once again, returning to the main part of Petra, we encountered the arriving hordes, although it was not yet midday. We felt glad to leave the site and felt satisfied with all we had seen. Even our short day was still four hours walking up and down a steep incline!


More steps on our last day at Petra, Jordan

Small niche on the wall, High Place of Sacrifice walk

Aching legs! High Place of Sacrifice walk

Series of tombs or caves, High Place of Sacrifice walk

A glimpse through the canyon, High Place of Sacrifice walk

Resting near a hardy tree, High Place of Sacrifice walk

Looking down on the Royal Tomb area we had seen the previous day

Obelisk in the sun, High Place of Sacrifice, Petra, Jordan

Obelisk and Rich, High Place of Sacrifice

Looking where we'd walked, High Place of Sacrifice, Petra, Jordan

The supposed sacrifice stone, High Place of Sacrifice

Inside the site of Petra lay many small-scale souvenir stalls and cafes. They were actually quite cute, and not too much of the hard sell. It was surprisingly undeveloped, considering what a popular tourist attraction Petra is, and the numbers of visitors that come here. Many donkey, camel and horse men were trying to make a living over-charging tourists for rides around Petra. These were especially popular on the long walk uphill back to the exit. These guys were not too bad, just asking if we wanted a lift, and riding on when we said no thanks. We suspect this may be due to the small number of tourists here, and maybe there is more hassle when things are in full swing. 


Low key souvenir store near a giant tomb, Petra, Jordan

Starting our Jordan trip in the most touristy place in the country had its challenges. Many shops outside Petra in the town of Wadi Musa were a bit of a rip off, blatantly over-charging, even for simple items such as a bottle of water. We had to change the trusting habits that we had developed in Saudi, and remember to ask the price of things first before buying, and always check the change. Restaurants were also outrageously over-priced, and we struggled to find anywhere to eat where a meal for two without drinks was less than 20 JOD/£21. We made our own breaky with fruit and yogurt, and often ate hummus, fresh bread, tomatoes and cheese bought locally to keep costs down. We looked forward to hopefully arriving to parts of Jordan where the constant over charging might not be such a issue. 


Cute sign at our local shop, Wadi Musa, Jordan


After anticipating visiting Petra for many years, we were so elated to have finally got there on this trip. It completely lived up to its reputation of being one of the wonders of the world. Although many questions we had about its purpose were never fully answered from information boards scattered around the site and the official Petra Museum, we loved pondering about who the Nabataeans were and what had driven them to build such a fantastic city in the desert. 


Thrilled to be at Petra, Jordan


......up next, our continued travels in Jordan further north to Karak, Madaba and Amman......